savage bulldogs

Majorca, this year [emoji41] we tend to alternate between Greek Islands and Spanish resorts each year [emoji6] Did you see the pics of Mellon knorks and the pu55ay flower seeds I put on f.b ? They made me grin [emoji1] And think about taking up gardening [emoji23]

Yeah I got a couple of vids of the 1/4 ,not that they we're worth watching with my crappie driving not doing the scooby justice lol. As for me and my holiday war wounds .... I've now got crispy "bingo wings" to go with my random burnt bit of leg with a added side portion of jelly fish sting across the top of my foot [emoji30] I'm staying in the bar from now on [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If there's will there's always a way If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The rear hanger isn't a issue as I've heard of people fitting full newage turbo backs to classics and viasa versa by only using 2 hangers . It's the difference between the lengths of the sections that cause the problem. I'll have my classic cat back up for sale soon , it's a custom 3" system with a 5" slash cut back box and a resonated center section. £120 [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Plus the extra peddle would be a bit of a give away [emoji39]

That's where I bought my classic ones from last year [emoji6]

is a minefield with even impreza spec tbh as v1 to v4 uk , usdm and the two major jdm versions (wrx and sti ) all have different cams, pistons and deck type . The main way to identify the differences for most (non sti performance) parts is from the phase type . V1 & v2 (phase 1) have single coil packs on top of each spark plugs and a top entry turbo . V3 & v4 (phase 1.5) have 1 coilpack in the centre of the inlet manifold with ht leads to each spark plug and a front entry turbo . V5 & V6 (phase 2) have a single coilpack offset on the inlet manifold, ht leads with a front entry turbo . With imprezas the full engine and model code generally give you a idea of the engines spec regarding internals but that's only if the engines the original untouched unit . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It looks like a newage system to me as all the classic ones I've seen have a 3rd "hanger" at the back of the rear box like this ... If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Depends what it's off ? As classic and newage exhausts are the same overall length but newage run different length sections If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Afaik Most afr gauges normally run off their own wideband o2 sensor that is fitted into the exhaust or headers . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah that was about as fair a match as me against the civic type r I rinsed on the next 1/4 mile run [emoji23] Cheers gambit ....Have you been checking out my f.b pic of my burnt leg (missed a bit with the suncream ) [emoji57] Dunno if I'll have another bash at the 1/4 @ japshow finale in October but I'll be on the stand Sunday all the same [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Cheers chap [emoji106] Even after 20k and a regular spanking it doesn't leak a drop of oil or water , so keeping it clean is generally just a case of dusting off the road grime [emoji6] I'll be much happier once it's running closer to the 400hp target though [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My old v3 uk set up . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bought my race spec Mahle pistons from them and they seemed to know their stuff [emoji106] As for my scoob she's currently parked up in the airport car park while I'm sat in sunny majorca sipping San Miguel [emoji41] Did manage to buy a new 3" cobra track day system off egay at 4 am this morning while waiting in the airport. Just to treat the old girl when I get back [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I second what stants said about a tdo4 turbo and a fmic would be overkill . A vf34 would spool earlier than a tdo5 16g and would max out at your 330hp target with a v3/v4 sti tmic. But don't under estimate the uppercut of the fmic and tdo5 16g combo . Cos with supporting mods it packs quite a punch [emoji6] Is tdr or rm racing near you , as a few people have had good things to say about them . Although rm racing is run by 2 ex api engine and box builders and I don't think they do mapping "in house" If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'd imagine Mine will probably still be louder than most with the track day system on .Due to having the gruppe headers , custom up pipe and cusco decat downpipe but quieter under 3k would be ideal for me [emoji106] . I did consider getting a hks silent cat back but I've decided i fancy something with a discreet looking tail pipe instead. I've never been to keen on the big bore tipped "jdm" look on exhausts [emoji55] and would like to regain a bit more of the stealth element I seem to have lost since changing things pre turbo [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Not that much of a update but the avcr is now working properly , has helped with spool and fixed the slight overboost in 5th/6th 😎 The misimoto baffled catch can has got rid of the oily smell in the cabin 😆 Unfortunately I'm still waiting for the billet fuel rails to turn up but I had a play with the braided fuel lines to reverse the flow and relocate the fuel lab fpr to the back of the bay . As I'd put the alternator in the way when fittingthe reversed inlet 🤔 after a good couple of months of subtle hints about getting a quieter 3" cat back and even loosening the back box every now n then to make it louder 😈 🙊😂the Mrs has finally given in and given me the ok to order the cobra track day system when I get back from Spain 😎

Cheap headers are a sure way to loose power , some have been known to restrict the revs to 5.5k . I think you can get slightly higher hp in the top of the Rev range with equal length Headers but I love the scooby burble too much to fit them to mine . Get some heat wrap around them while there off and they'll have to be "mapped in " shortly after they're fitted too [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The gasket between the up pipe and turbo should only have exhaust gas passing through it . Follow the coolant pipe that goes from the coolant header tank to the turbo core and from core back to engine . I'd imagine that it would be more likely to be leaking from the core coolant hard pipe . Then running down the outside of the core and hitting the up pipe to turbo flange. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As long as its a front entry tdo4 it will fit fine fella 👍 I'd certainly double check that the coolant is passing through the core . I've never heard of a turbo failure that involved coolant leaking before but that doesn't mean it's not possible. Just that it's more likely to be leaking from somewhere else (ie coolant flow and return ) and running down the up pipe rather than leaking from it . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just seen your pic of the front mount intercooler on the other thread , nice work [emoji106] just stay off boost a bit untill it's mapped in [emoji6] I also noticed it's got a preface front bumper and the coilpack is in the centre of the inlet manifold. So it's probably a late v4 uk and will have grey 380 cc phase 1.5 injectors (good for 290 hp) . Cheapest option is to find some phase 2 yellow 440cc injectors from a v5 /v6 and buy some "phase adapters " total cost about £80 . Unless your 100% sure the second hand yellows are good, it might be worth getting them flow matched or cleaned (about £120) . You won't want to drive it far once you fit bigger injectors, cos it will be over fuelling, so keep it under 2.5k and fit em the day before the remap. [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Can't say I've seen a braided throttle cable on a classic before but I might look for one now I know they make em [emoji106] I do know the v1& v2 throttle cable are different as I had to use a v3 one on mine cos I'm running a v3 throttle body on my flipped inlet [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Added a few bits to the list 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Can't remember what version youngy's scooby is but if it's a v5/v6 phase 2 it will have yellows as standard . Previous to that only the v2 ,v3 and v4 sti's had yellows from the factory [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Keeping it relatively standard would help a rb5 hold it's value ,well that and keeping the rear arches and suspension turrets clean to keep the rust at bay . As for service or oe parts most of us use "import car parts " I personally prefer to phone them and ask to speak to luke. As he knows his scooby bits and matches prices that you find elsewhere on the net [emoji6] For fluids either speak to Tim @ "opie oils" or pm him on here , as we get a club discount and he knows his stuff [emoji6] Other than regular oil changes (every 5k ish) , letting it warm up and cool down before and after using boost and not bolting mods on without mapping . You should have a reliable car . P.s I'm down in sunny Suffolk so can't help with tuners local to you but hopefully someone will be able to point you in the right direction. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊