savage bulldogs

I think matty b had one up for sale last week ,it was either a 34 or a 43 can't remember which but he'd be worth a look anyways [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had a few scooby shiny bits turn up at argos which is handy . All I've gotta do now is shake the Mrs off the sent and stealth my way to the click n collect counter [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Shame cos that's too far for me ,dunno about James though If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've got a black preface ally bonnet that I was going to get sprayed to put my v1 back to standard . But if anyone has a ally 406 silver bonnet I'd gladly swap it for my 406 silver facelift bonnet. Might even do a deal with a full facelift swap including the crystal headlight and v3/v4 406 grill . I'm in Ipswich Suffolk [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem bud, classics are known to "blow" the spark out when running extra boost and sometimes a smaller gap can rectify this (if it's a minor misfire) . If it's a v1/v2 a newage coil pack conversion is another option to increase spark strength [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I think I gapped mine to 6.5 instead of 7 . Changing the plugs for colder ones won't make the engine run any colder , if anything they'll probably make it run worse and possibly make them crack or fail . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bit difficult to say if they are running too hot but I'd say it's certainly not over fuelling as they're not "sooty" Don't put 5's in as they're colder running than the 6's , most run ngk heat 7's on modified scoobs and close the gaps up a bit if running more than a bar of boost . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you intend on fitting the v5/v6 wagons engine I'd look for a clean jdm v5/v6 with a fubar'd engine . As using the same version will make the engine loom,inlet manifold and auxiliaries match up easier. As for model ,I personally wouldn't get anything to special as you would de value it by re shelling into it . I saw a mint condition ,bog standard v1sti up for £8k . I think I'd be lucky to get that for my modded one , even though the engine n 6 speed is probably worth £5k . I will admit my clean shell would've gone to the scrappies if I hadn't have saved it for my project .Mind you I don't think I'll ever sell it but if I did I'd probably have to break it to get my money back. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Do the top 2 back up to take the strain of the bottom ones ,then remove the awkward bottom ones first If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The early top mount intercoolers are the least efficient in the range and rarely make over 300hp when mapped . So keeping engine bay temps down helps keep the tmic from soaking the heat into the intake air . Giving colder denser air and more hp [emoji6] Don't wrap the whole downpipe ,as it will get wet under the car , just the top and vertical bit . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's a recent thing (since its been hot) it might be tmic heat soak , have you got the turbo /downpipe heat shields in place? if not is your downpipe "wrapped" to keep the heat down in the bay ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

There's always a risk with second hand engines especially if they're over 20 yrs old . A rebuild will cost £1.2 k in basic parts and machining costs, without labour and a new crank ect . If you decide to buy second hand.... Any v1 92 to v4 98 long engine (bottom end and heads) will fit if you fit your inlet manifold and auxiliaries to it . If you want a straight swap (leave the inlet manifold ect on ) get a v1 92 to v2 early 96 complete engine as this will drop in. If your not intending on mapping it afterwards try to get a engine out of the same model , cos cams differ on the sti models . Best of luck and let us know how you get on. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Don't think the ecu would back the boost off if it's sensing exessive heat but a engine that's too hot might tighten up the tolerances enough to cause drag/wear to affect performance. If intake temps are high or its over fuelling you'd loose a bit power . Is it boiling over or just seems to be running a bit hot ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Tell the mot tester that it's a drift car ... so you need the side lights pointing sideways to see where your going [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just ordered £80's worth of braided lines to plumb in the new catch can and billet fuel rails (once they arrive) Hopefully the sun will stay out so I can change the oil filter and drop some fresh nano drive in this afternoon[emoji1] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

V1 /v2 o2 sensor is in the headers just before the upipe. They moved it to the downpipe from v3 onwards [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Give the "model code" a google ,it's located on the silver plaque under the bonnet on top of the passenger side suspension turret [emoji6]

I'd personally prefer the widest tyres I can fit (better traction and wider track ) . I had 04 wrx rims on my classic with 4 pot calipers ,so I'm sure that they'll fit but unsure about the minimum width spec they recommend . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Welcome back to burble n boost bud [emoji41] Blob and bug wrx's run the same hub centers and brakes (unless ones a sti with the bigger brembo set up) so clearance and offset shouldn't be a issue Afaik . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice shopping list [emoji41] I Don't think you'll need injectors as the v5/v6 phase 2 set up normally runs yellow injectors as standard, which are 440cc and good for 350hp with supporting mods [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I know ecu's will reduce timing and add fuel if it senses exessive knock but I don't know if it will add fuel if the afr reading from the o2 sensor leans off . The map sensor is capable of reading the negative pressures when off boost but Afaik the maf gives the mapper another airflow reading to help tune the afr finer . I suppose Mpg doesn't really matter if it's a weekend toy or track . I personally like the idea of having 2 sensors measuring air flow as it's does help you spot intake and fmic leaks early by throwing up a code . Youngy Sorry for filling your threads with my theory ,lol . How much boost is a bit of a "how longs a bit of string" sort of question tbh, bud As the only safe way to know how much boost your engine will take is to monitor the afr ,knock and detonation while adding boost (Ie on a dyno) . I think most mappers will map a uk or wrx to 1.3 bar but they add fuel, adjust timing and smooth the boost curve by "re mapping" the parameters as they monitor As most turbo engines will eat themselves if they lean off under boost . I'd suggest a full service and dyno run if you can't afford to pay for a remap . That way you know the car is safe while you save [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

it sounds like the linkage needs a refresh if the gear selection is a bit vague. Have you checked the gearbox oil level and condition of the clutch fluid ? Do you know when the gearbox, diff , clutch plate and clutch fluid were last changed ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm not a mapper just a bit bias with the maf debate (as most of you probably know ) I've tried to list a few of the pros n cons I've experienced [emoji6] I think most delete the maf as some years are prone to failure and the v1 /v2 maf only flows enough to hit 360 hp ,due to its smaller dia tube than v3 onwards (which run 400bhp +) The main bonus would be when going "rotated" and you make the intake side of the turbo bigger dia ie ... by fitting 3" dia coldside intake , intake pipework (including maf delete pipe) and large cone with spun trumpet , which would aid spool. If it's just a maf delete there's no way the ecu can take "air density" reading's into the map . So the mapper has to compensate for colder air and not be able to trim fuel as well . Although this can be lessened by having a air temp sensor installed and calibrated by the mapper . Although a air temp sensor does help with trim you can't trim it as "fine" as you can with a maf . As You can't measure "flow" with the map sensor ,just inlet manifold pressure . My mappers a bit old school but he prefers mafs as he doesn't like relying on just 1 sensor to tell you how much air is available to add to the fuel . you can buy bigger aftermarket mafs but they're not cheap . my mates 3.3 ltr turbo mk1 golf runs a 3" dia coldside, intake pipework and pro am maf [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

We covered it on the ESL mapping course I think thats probably why all marques of turbo cars have a maf when they leave the factory and I'm sure they wouldn't have them fitted if it wasn't needed, as it would save them a fortune [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You could try getting a 4 wheel alignment done, as this would show you if your camber or Caistor is out .As tracking only checks 1 axis on just the front wheels . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊