savage bulldogs

Finished work early yesterday so went for a b road blast in the sunshine [emoji41] Scalped another boxter , a 330 beemer ,a shed load of flies and a bee [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As above and I'll add that the maf measures the air coming through the air filter towards the turbo . Whereas the map sensor measures the pressure in the inlet manifold (after the turbo) . It does depend on what year your car is as to whether you need to upgrade your map sensor . The early v1 (92 ) to v2 (early 96) map sensor hits it's max at 1.2 bar, so they're normally upgraded for a v3 (late 96 onwards ) map sensor which max out at 1.7 bar . So basically if it's a v1 /v2 then yes get a later classic map sensor and get the mapper to fit it on the day , as they're not plug n play and need to be calibrated. If it's a v3 onwards the stock map sensor will be fine but I'd consider getting a 3 port boost solinoid (if your's hasn't got one) as they help the mapper keep the boost curve smoother. [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Spotted this on one of the many face book pages . Think I reconised the car from a member off here a while back (could be wrong though) Dunno if it's your cuppa but thought I'd show you a screen shot anyways . I'm not sure if a face book link will work on here (especially if your not a member of the group) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

On my 94 impreza there's only a few 50 amp fuses .the only 2 I can think of at the moment are .... The "fusible link" which is basically a 50 amp wire with a spade connection on either end .This is the fuse for the starter motor . And the other is for the charging system . Hopefully one of the leggy boys will know . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I Don't know anything about that particular car ,unfortunately. They didn't make many Terzo versions but spec wise they're basically a uk car with a different interior. So generally not over valuable in standard guise due to the lower uk spec . There's not as much difference in strength of equipment between the classic sti and wrx and uk versions. But in standard form you'd probably get a extra 50 hp from the sti with just a map and breathing mods . The 2.5 conversion gives the lightweight classic loads of low down torque . the standard classic gearboxes are know to spit out their dummies at 330hp . At that level of tune even a standard 2.5 lump shouldn't be too stressed . I prefer the classics but im a bit bias as I've only ever owned 2 jap motors and both of them have been silver classic saloons . they're a raw drive in comparison to the "newage" (bug eye or 2000 onwards). .... But I only do 4k miles per year in mine If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Your welcome and keep us updated on the hunt . "scoob" is a language in its own right , it does get easier once you get familiar with the lingo though. [emoji5] You will pay a extra £3k + for a sti of the same year over a wrx but the newage sti's stronger gearbox and better brake set up sells for about £2.5 k more than the wrx spec stuff . Dont get me wrong the wrx is a capable motor with plenty of potential. There's a blobeye wrx on here hitting low 12's on the 1/4 mile, without any real major modifications (original engine and box ). choice of base car probably depends if you want to modify or not, then if it's for big power or drivability and smiles per gallon . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sounds good I'm up for that. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk there's plenty of motors there of all makes n models , not that many stalls but hey it's free and a good £20k people wandering around. there's a few pics from "cars on the green" (in the East anglia region section) on my post for last year's event if you want a squint. Soon as s.c has a event thread up for this year I'll chuck a link in the E.A section on here [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

@kgbkev There's a free show at Bury St Edmunds on father's day next month "cars on the green" . There's a few coming down from Cromer and Norwich , always room for more in the noisy convoy [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm in Suffolk so unfortunately can't help with reputable mechanics or scooby specialists in your area . Hopefully someone closer to you can recommend someone. If you do need a replacement long engine (block and heads) or any other bits , yours is a version 1 with a phase 1 inlet manifold/fuel system . Any v1 to v4 impreza long engine will fit if you use your car's inlet manifold, auxiliaries and sensors. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice work, looks sweet [emoji106] . I had to make a couple of brackets up to fit the hatch sti seats in the front of my classic. As i don't own a welder atm and the inner rear mounting points didn't line up . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I think stants and a few other members use viper hoses but I'm unsure if they do kits or what colours they stock If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Looks like a standard wrx back box although I'm unsure if it's newage or classic If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome to s.o.c, Gary . A £6k budget is almost good bug eye sti money so you should be able to find a decent wrx in that Price range. As you've owned a jdm before you probably know that they do tend to be that bit cleaner underneath . There's a buying guide amongst the sticky threads on here which is worth a read ,as it covers most common issues. I'm only about 15 miles from you (just across the Suffolk border) so I'll keep a eye out for anything local . Best of luck with the hunt, bud [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It's never easy to diagnose faults without seeing it but if the knocking sound increases in volume with a increase in revs it doesn't sound good I'm afraid. Even with a video it can be easy to misdiagnose a sticky tappet lifter or a bad manifold blow for a knocking bottom end . If it has "spun a shell" it's gonna need a full rebuild, as you can't access the crank shells without splitting the block halves and removing the heads . What county are you in ? As I'd recommend getting a mechanic to check it over before we scare you off with the cost of a rebuild or replacement engine . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had a good day out at duxford spring car show today with my local forum [emoji41] . I didn't take to many pics as I kept dribbling on my phone [emoji23] . Few of scooby city's stand . Couple of randoms There's a stealth bomber in the bottom left on this pic (somewhere lol ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Clayed, Machine polished and detailed some paint yesterday[emoji41] managed to get a coat of colinite on the flat panels today before the heavens opened [emoji53] pain in the "beading" ar5e I didn't get to finish the whole car . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I only normally use a billet hamber clay bar twice a year .Once in the spring to clean it up before its first detail and once in the autumn before I seal it up for winter . I'm on the scooby city stand at Duxford spring car show this Sunday. so I thought I'd give it a go before the first polish ,seal and wax of the year (due to poxy weather this year so far) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Thought I'd give a clay cloth a punt so I had a squint on their website. ..... got a bit carried away and ended up buying a kit for my machine polisher along with a few other bits [emoji39] Mrs was well excited when a big parcel turned up on the morning of our anniversary. ......... stupid bird should have known by now if it's a box with my name on it . It's probably got something "scooby " inside [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The individual coil packs are a better to give a stronger spark ,hence why subaru went back to using that method later on in the impreza range. It's just the classic individual coil packs are old tech (23yrs old) and don't perform as well as the newage coil packs . So in my opinion if you wanted to upgrade your coil packs I'd look into a newage coil pack conversion. It cost me £ 80 for some second hand newage coil packs with pigtails and about 2 hrs with a soldering iron [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you can find a 6 speed with the ratio as your current 5 speed, you can do the conversion with .... 6 speed box , cradle, prop, gearstick and linkage . As you can use the 5 speed clutch ,fly,slave and drive shafts . Although fitted the 6 speed clutch ,fly and starter motor when doing my conversion .As the 6 speed fly and clutch is slightly bigger in diameter and therfore handles a bit more power . I was lucky enough to find a 6 speed conversion kit (clutch included )for just under £1,500 [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Classic imprezas (92 to 00 ) use these in quite a few places . Arch liners. Front bumpers. Rear bumpers. Boot trim . And interior trim . They do use other different sized and shaped clips in those areas as well as the ones in your pic . Just thought I'd mention that as you wouldn't be able to brand them as a set of "complete" fixings for those areas [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sounds like possibly a air intake or boost leak . As either 1 of those would give a "hissing" sound and lack of power . Try checking for any loose pipe clips or cracks in the pipework from the maf (just after the air filter) to turbo intake . Then from turbo outlet (under the top mount intercooler ) to throttle body. Also check any of the small bore vacuum pipes for cracks as these can also leak boost and are prone to perishing . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Imo a man that never made a mistake probably never "made" anything. I'm always looking to try something different ,which means that some things work and stay "as is" but it also means that somethings get removed or tweeked to try something better . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

James that blue bit on yours is a fpr bypass that you have to fit when installing a aftermarket fpr . My current inlet is a reversed intake with extra vac ports and I've binned most of the oe vac line system . Unfortunately when I removed the oe v1 vac line system I didn't really pay much attention, as I knew I wasn't refitting it . The fpr vac line keeps the fuel pressure correct , so I wouldn't want anything else drawing from the same line . Just incase it alters the fuel pressure . Ideally we need someone who has a relatively standard v1 .Or if you can trace the other vac lines back and tell me where they go/post a pic . I should be able to help identify which lines would be ok to "t" together. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I can't remember exactly where it goes and my current vac line system is far from standard (so I can't pop the bonnet and check) as long as its connected directly to the inlet manifold ( not "t'd" in to another line) it will work fine . V1 refers to the the year of turbo inlet manifold shape the car uses and ran from 92 to 94😉 Here's a pic of my v3 (97) inlet manifold which runs a slightly different inlet manifold but shows the fpr and vac line. Maybe someone with a more standard v1 could pop their bonnet and check for you ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊