savage bulldogs

Tbh I probably enjoy moding more when I've got to make something fit rather than just bolting something on [emoji15] But I do like a challenge [emoji4] I've found autosiliconehoses or ash to be fairly cheap and good quality for ally and silicone pipework [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

They're fairly simple to work on once you get familiar with the boxer layout. I started off by setting a budget and max hp, bearing in mind that the classic drive trains limit is about 350hp .So anything above that will eventually cost another £2k if you have to buy a stronger 6 speed, clutch, brakes ect ... If it's a v4 or earlier any v1 to v4 long engine will fit but the head to inlet manifold stud patterns differ from v5 onwards. I mentioned this as it's much simpler fitting heads that are compatible with your car . Find yourself a good reputable local engineer, preferably with scooby experience. As boxer lumps do suffer from "ovality" and tapering of the bores .which can be missed by some if not checked properly. You might be lucky and get away with a hone instead of a 0.5 mm over bore. I'd only use oe subaru or better gaskets as cheaper ones don't tend to last as well . A full gasket, timing belt set (including rollers and tensioner),crank shells , "stopper " headgaskets and engineer check will set you back about £1k . It's a slippery slope and if you've read my build thread ,you know I'm not lying lol . Best of luck ,keep us updated and the camera handy 👍 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

They're probably thinking its the igniter at fault which sits at the back of the boost solinoid bracket. It sends a high amp signal to each coil pack but you bypass it when doing a newage coil pack conversion . As the newage coil packs just need low amp in and convert that to high amp directly on top of the plugs (less wire to create resistance and loose spark power). Unlike the classic coil packs which loose amps as the high current passes from the igniter and all the way through the engine loom to each coil pack. If you're running over 1.2 bar the classic coil packs are probably on their limit ,as mine wouldn't stop missing @1.3 bar untill I did the conversion. it's worth checking that the plugs are ngk heat 7's and that their gapped to 0.65 mm. Also that the coil packs weren't over tightened on fitting .They have a tendency to twist if not held in position while fitting and this can cause cracking (even on new ones) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Godspeed sell the clips along with seals and uprated stainless steel pistons for 4 pots [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Upset grey haired bloke in a new ish porshe boxter convertible with "jeff" as a number plate . He tried to undertake me twice [emoji53] once on a slip road and again at a national speed limit round about . He seemed a bit miffed and promptly punched the porkas steering wheel a few times ...... He probably saved a long time to buy his porka ,sorry jeff [emoji55] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No worries[emoji106] You can obviously make just about any engine fit to a scoob but I dare say fitting the v5/v6 loom ,ecu ect would be the easiest option when converting from v2 to v5 / v6 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

A service and a power run is always a good starting point imo [emoji106] As you know it's running safe and it's a solid foundation for future mods . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The v5/v6 inlet manifold won't fit any other version of classic heads .Also the wiring for the v5/ v6 engine sensors/dash and ecu plugs are different . So it's probably got a v5/v6 ecu and if you need to buy any sensors ,fuel system components and engine bay pipework you'll probably need to make sure they're compatible with a v5/v6 phase 2 engine . Rather than the v2 phase 1 95/96 shell that the reg and vin plate model code will say If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Looks like sombody has spent a fair bit of time n money on it and having a v6 dash and wiring would explain how they've fitted the phase 2 inlet manifold. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It's the spring that holds the dust cover in place ,so not too much of a problem and cheap to replace [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I had a rethink and I added a 600mm long ally elbow when fitting the reversed inlet. so it's not nearly 2 mtrs it's about 1.3 mtrs but all the same it should help keep the intake temps down In traffic[emoji6] It does seem to pick up fairly quick and it's more of a gradual "pull" rather than a bit of lag and then it all coming in at once (like the tdo5 did) . I've turned the boost and wastegate duty down from 1.58 bar to 0.7 and haven't used anymore than 70% throttle yet . Due to not having any way of checking the afr until it's tweeked on the dyno . I'm hopefully selling the 5zigen system today and I'm currently running a 3" custom system but it's decated and does sound like a wrc car with the extra chatter in that vid I sent you stants [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I use Clive attowe in norwich for my apexi fc mapping ,he's owned his own dyno cell for a decade or so . I don't think you'd max the maf out before the standard turbo and drive train but check that with your mapper first If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It took a fair while to work out the new route for the clocked coldside mod and converting the turbo from front to top entry . But with a hacksaw and a few silicone elbows it ended up like this and I've now cut out just under 2 mtrs of heatsoaking fmic pipework from under the bonnet . Bit gutted about the rails but it will give me something to do while I'm plucking up the courage to hack the loom again to fit the tomei z32 maf plug . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I was hoping to fit the parallel fuel rails and fuel lab pressure regulator ,along with the sr40 turbo and thermal inlet manifold spacers .Unfortunately the fuel rails are for a phase 1.5 and won't fit my phase 1 inlet manifold without me fabricating a spacer . I always like to try something a little different so I turned the turbo coldside to try and lessen the heatsoak that the turbo outlet "U" bend creates I also fitted some thermal inlet spacers to help lessen the heat transfer from the heads. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem bud. How's it running with the greys back in ? I sold a v1 / v2 esl'd ecu for £150 a couple of years ago ,so if you're lucky enough to find another second hand one, you could possibly get that mapped for £250 ish . Or if you're confident enough go on the esl mapping course ,buy the data cable and map it yourself. Otherwise I think a esl board fitted and mapped will cost around the £600 mark If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

there's 1 every month in norwich on my local forum "scooby city" They're also doing a show stand at Duxford soon which is quite a good family day out [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I see your logic with putting 440's in as you have added bigger injectors but I'd have thought that when you're off boost it's running quite rich and its a bit of a gamble as to whether you're running lean due to the mods on boost . Maybe you'd probably be better off refitting the greys ,resetting the ecu and running low boost untill you can afford to get a remap. You could be fine but without seeing the afr ,knock and detonation levels , I wouldn't want to advise you change fueling and airflow. It might go bang and cost you a lot more in the in the long run [emoji53] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Did it originally have grey injectors ? Even if you get a ecu with a map with the right injectors the decat and bigger rollerbearing turbo would cause boost at a different point in the fuelling map . So if you do intend on driving it (especially on boost ) I'd turn the boost down to 0.5 bar max and get it on a dyno where afr ,knock and detonation can be monitored. As for mappable sub £1k mapped ecu's in early classics I've had a v3 uk with esl which did seem to always run a bit rich ,but it was running noisy forged pistons and mafless with a air intake temp sensor . Apexi is definitely old tech but I personally like being able to monitor parameters live on the controller and can't afford a ecu with a toucan display. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The v1 sti runs a sa ecu but it runs 380 grey injectors, I can't remember if the v2 sti runs 440 cc yellow injectors (a quick Google would probably tell you) I mentioned that as I'd imagine that you would at least need a standard ecu that runs the correct size injectors . Otherwise the fuelling would be miles out and you'd risk bore wash . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Can't say I've seen the symptoms before but I haven't driven up any mountains in my scoob either . Here's a few ideas anyways How's the engine temperature gauge and are all coolant pipes getting hot ? The coolant does look clear in colour, has it got the correct coolant to water mix for your climate? (In Spain ain't ya ?) As it sounds like it's boiling maybe ? it could be something to do with the thinner air affecting the air fuel ratio, although I'd have thought the less dense air would make it richer and therfore making the combustion cooler not hotter The air density sensor might be faulty? Not sure how you'd check the air density sensor but it's on the boost solinoid bracket (the bit with the "cap" on it) maybe you can swap it with a known working one to rule it out ? Best of luck, bud If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Are the new plugs ngk heat 7's ? Cos if they're ngk 6's or other brands that could also cause a misfire when hot . Maybe he mapped it when it was warm (not hot) and probably in 3rd gear not at 80mph (on a private road ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If they didn't do a newage coil pack conversion, try re gapping the plugs to 0.65 mm. As it sounds like it's blowing the spark out under heavy load in the higher gears. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Has to be the noises they make ,the "cult" waves and the unhappy look on people's faces as they're unexpectedly left behind in a cloud of shells finest [emoji12] . Haven't had the stereo on for a few days ,cos mines making some lovely "wrc chatter" sounds since fitting the sr40 turbo [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Managed to soak my heat wrapped upipe in oil (school boy error) so it's a bit smokey under the bonnet [emoji39] But it was never going to be straight forward fitting a "clocked " gt28 sized turbo and converting it to top entry . Like most of my conversions it's a bit frankenstien looking but it's functional and I'll make it look purdy later [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Today i be Mostly filling the swear jar , cos the fuel rails don't fit and ive been hacking fmic pipework about, to make the clocked front entry turbo fit Rain stopped play , hopefully I'll get it back together tomorrow [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊