savage bulldogs

If it's a standard car on a standard map I'd have thought it would be a mechanical issue causing the trim . Ie failing cat ,blowing upipe or manifold ,air leak (maybe just under boost ) ect . As they Might cause parameters between sensors to conflict ,add fuel and !Removed! timing. I've never had the equipment to read the esl or current apexi, so don't know much about codes but i think my esl'd ecu used to pick up noise from my forged pistons and add fuel to the map as it thought it was exessive knock .So could it be a minor intermittent issue that's not logged a code ? Has the tps posibily been disturbed ? as this would give incorrect readings for throttle positions to the ecu . Maybe a dyno would help to pin point it ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice genuine looking bug sti you've got there Gary 😎 Nice to meet you both this afternoon too [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

That's quite a list ,you have been busy [emoji41] They might be to large for tapatalk try editing them by using crop or lessen the quality to make them smaller. Or upload them to photo bucket then copy n paste the img#### link [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I would say welcome back but seeing as there's no list of what scooby shiny stuff you've done and no pics ....... I think you need to delete this post and have another go with much more info [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Definitely check the crank and cam sensors are plugged back in , cos (as stants said ) it won't fire and will just turn over if they're not connected. Crank sensor is in the top of the oil pump ,above the crank pulley under the alternator. Cam sensor is on the passenger side top just behind the back of the timing belt cover . If theyre both ok remove the timing belt covers and check the timing marks .As To fit the oil pump you'd have to remove the timing belt . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As matt said most that run extra boost use ngk 7's and make sure they're compatible with your engine size .As the 2.5 heads run a different length plug than the 2ltr heads. My personal opinion of the "multi point" spark plugs is that they're a bit of a gimmick, although I've got no data to back up my opinion. Basic electrical behaviour is the spark will "jump" across the smallest gap between "prong" and "core" . Therfore only ever "sparking" at 1 point not all 4 at once ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I agree with your opinion on the W"b"ankers but house prices don't really affect me too much. As I jumped on the ladder at 19 and payed it off at 40 ,so I've got enough equity and savings to almost buy the next house with cash 😉 I (apparently) have a fairly rare ra rear diff which has a lsd and it does seem to like lighting up the rear tyres more than my old ok diff 😎 I'll probably drop the rear subframe off mine at some point when the rear bushes start to show signs of wear . My v1sti has only done 86k and has only been over here since 2011 , so isn't showing any signs of wear yet but ........ If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Is the Air filter in good nick and not restricting air flow ? Fuel purge system ,charcoal filter and vac lines in good order ? Would a ecu reset bring the trim back to factory? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah what with putting my house on the market and the bulldog passing away (rip lizzy) I've not been on here as much lately 😕 Glad that you didn't have to drop the tank in the end and it's good to know that the tank doesn't need to be dropped fir future reference 😉 Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

Mine ran 350hp with the standard 3 port without any issues and the only reason I'm currently running a upgraded one is because it came in the box with the apexi avcr [emoji41] I'm 90% sure I've got a spare 3 port you can have for £25 posted but they will only plug n play into a scoob that runs a 3 port in its oe spec or if its had a oe 3 port already mapped in . Otherwise the upgrade from 2 port to 3 port needs to be calibrated by a mapper to make it work [emoji6] Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

Have you tried cleaning it with some contact cleaner as they do get bunged up . The standard classic ones are fine ,do you know if your's is a 2 port or 3 port solinoid ? Cos if your's is fubar, I think I've got a spare 3 port if you're stuck . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sorry bud missed this post ,not that I'll be much help , as I've never had to remove any of the body work brake lines or the tank . Could you access the pipes through where the pipes go from interior to exterior or did you have to drop the tank ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I wash ,clay ,rinse, resin polish ,paint sealer and then top it with colinite wax . Which Seems to keep the swirls at bay for a couple of months . I've been told that using a "glaze" before the sealer and wax helps too . If you do decide to have a go at machine polishing just buy a fine grade polish and pad to start with (until you build up your technique ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If the injectors are grey there 380's good for 290hp. If the injectors are yellow there 440's good for 340hp . So it depends on your target hp but bear in mind that the slanty type of intercooler is the least efficient so you'll need to upgrade that after 290hp. Turbo will have tdo4 ##### or tdo5 ### on the coldside [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It's a v2 with a phase 1 inlet / fuel rails . The v1 and v2 saloon wrx's came with a tdo5 16g turbo (capable of 350hp ) although I'm unsure if the wagons of the same year were fitted with the same . The v1 and v2 uk turbo 2000's were fitted with a tdo4 and so we're wrx's from late 96 v3 onwards. . Either way a fuel pump, sports cat and a full service would be a good starting point before you remap . We have got a few members from near you ,so someone else might know a trusted tuner in your area . Otherwise there's quite a few mobile mappers which will either come to you and map on the road or go to a dyno of your choice . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Have you checked the gauge ,engine and battery earth's ? Maybe somethings trying to earth where it shouldn't be. What is your oil pressure at cold idle and warm idle ? Cold is normally about 6 bar warm 1.8 to 3.5 bar on mine , pending on outside temperature and driving conditions Just read your other thread ,so thought I'd also suggest checking that the gauges are wired up to the lights correctly and there's no nicks in the insulation on the gauge wires that could be "grounding out" If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Quite like these [emoji41] there's one that drives about near me in Suffolk. Unfortunately I don't know if they run the same type of ecu's as the impreza of that year but if they do the cheapest option is probably a esl daughter board or apexi fc (stand alone ecu) . Both can be bought, fitted and mapped for a sub £600 price tag . If it does run a tdo4 and grey 380 cc injectors they'll be the limiting factor .As both max out at about 290hp with surporting mods . Which county are you in , as checking with your local mapper or esl themselves would probably be the best option to find out which ecu's will definitely work. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Have you got any dyno printouts of power , afr ,boost ect ? It could well be something simple like a blocked air filter or boost leak [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

There's 2 main differences in newage subaru 5 speed boxes other wise all bug eye 2001 to hawk are interchangeable. google your ty .... number to find the ratio of your box and whether your car has a R160 or R180 rear diff . 3.54 is the UK ratio which is normally accompanied by a R160 rear diff but jdms and some special editions differ. so make sure the new box matches your original ratio /diff type and you can use your existing diff and prop with another same ratio blobeye onwards 5 speed box If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem bud . Here's a link to the page on my thread with a few pics of the conversion and a link to show you exactly whats involved. Best of luck and let us know how you get on [emoji106]

To do a newage coil pack conversion you need the newage coil pack plugs with wires (cut off the newage engine loom) Cos you have to solder the 2 pin classic plugs onto the newage "pigtails" (plugs with 500 mm of engine loom) . Earth the 3rd wire that comes off the newage pigtails and then bypass the classic "igniter" behind the boost solinoid bracket. I think there's a link in my build thread on here that I used when doing my conversion. Can't remember the name of the site but it might come up with a google. Have a read through and make sure your ok with a soldering iron before having a go yourself 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My local forum has a stand for 25 cars @ cars on the green in Bury St Edmunds and I said I'd chuck a link to the thread on here . http://www.scoobycity.co.uk/forums/forum/events/future-events/authorised-sc-events/772503-cars-on-the-green?_=1463505704493 It's a free static car show which had over 20k people turn up to have a wander around the stands last year . I will admit other than food ,drink and 3 trade stands there's not much to do other than dribble on the wide range of motors. But hey its free and not much is now days [emoji41] so if you're local and interested sign up on scooby city and get your name down . All the best Clive If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sorry to hear your having issues especially since you haven't had it long . Matty @ mb developments would probably have a gearbox in stock. he's a reputable breaker of scoobies and can deliver on a pallet (give him a google to find his contact details ) All the best If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Lol . You could try checking the spark plug condition, gap and make sure they're the correct ones . I wouldn't replace to much untill you've driven it a bit as it's not been running much and could just be carbon build up from just running on the choke a lot (might burn off once you drive it ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You might get a bit of hissing from a induction kit but the turbo shouldn't make a noise on idle . Have you tried spraying a bit of brake cleaner around the joins of the intake tract (after maf to throttle body) the revs will rise if there's a leak as it will suck in the higher octane cleaner . Just don't spray too much at once (let it evaporate ) or spray it on hot parts (exhaust ect) cos it's flammable[emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊