savage bulldogs

there's 1 every month in norwich on my local forum "scooby city" They're also doing a show stand at Duxford soon which is quite a good family day out [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I see your logic with putting 440's in as you have added bigger injectors but I'd have thought that when you're off boost it's running quite rich and its a bit of a gamble as to whether you're running lean due to the mods on boost . Maybe you'd probably be better off refitting the greys ,resetting the ecu and running low boost untill you can afford to get a remap. You could be fine but without seeing the afr ,knock and detonation levels , I wouldn't want to advise you change fueling and airflow. It might go bang and cost you a lot more in the in the long run [emoji53] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Did it originally have grey injectors ? Even if you get a ecu with a map with the right injectors the decat and bigger rollerbearing turbo would cause boost at a different point in the fuelling map . So if you do intend on driving it (especially on boost ) I'd turn the boost down to 0.5 bar max and get it on a dyno where afr ,knock and detonation can be monitored. As for mappable sub £1k mapped ecu's in early classics I've had a v3 uk with esl which did seem to always run a bit rich ,but it was running noisy forged pistons and mafless with a air intake temp sensor . Apexi is definitely old tech but I personally like being able to monitor parameters live on the controller and can't afford a ecu with a toucan display. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The v1 sti runs a sa ecu but it runs 380 grey injectors, I can't remember if the v2 sti runs 440 cc yellow injectors (a quick Google would probably tell you) I mentioned that as I'd imagine that you would at least need a standard ecu that runs the correct size injectors . Otherwise the fuelling would be miles out and you'd risk bore wash . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Can't say I've seen the symptoms before but I haven't driven up any mountains in my scoob either . Here's a few ideas anyways How's the engine temperature gauge and are all coolant pipes getting hot ? The coolant does look clear in colour, has it got the correct coolant to water mix for your climate? (In Spain ain't ya ?) As it sounds like it's boiling maybe ? it could be something to do with the thinner air affecting the air fuel ratio, although I'd have thought the less dense air would make it richer and therfore making the combustion cooler not hotter The air density sensor might be faulty? Not sure how you'd check the air density sensor but it's on the boost solinoid bracket (the bit with the "cap" on it) maybe you can swap it with a known working one to rule it out ? Best of luck, bud If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had a hr ish on it last night so far so good. yes it is a hard game , so much so that on my first attempt in the mini I managed to unlock 2 achievements. ...... 1 for flipping it 360 ° and landing back on it's wheels and the other 1 was for getting the mini stuck 10ft up in a tree and writing it off [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just picked a copy of this up for the ps4, i've been looking forward to playing this since gambit put the p.c clips up [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Are the new plugs ngk heat 7's ? Cos if they're ngk 6's or other brands that could also cause a misfire when hot . Maybe he mapped it when it was warm (not hot) and probably in 3rd gear not at 80mph (on a private road ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If they didn't do a newage coil pack conversion, try re gapping the plugs to 0.65 mm. As it sounds like it's blowing the spark out under heavy load in the higher gears. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Has to be the noises they make ,the "cult" waves and the unhappy look on people's faces as they're unexpectedly left behind in a cloud of shells finest [emoji12] . Haven't had the stereo on for a few days ,cos mines making some lovely "wrc chatter" sounds since fitting the sr40 turbo [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Managed to soak my heat wrapped upipe in oil (school boy error) so it's a bit smokey under the bonnet [emoji39] But it was never going to be straight forward fitting a "clocked " gt28 sized turbo and converting it to top entry . Like most of my conversions it's a bit frankenstien looking but it's functional and I'll make it look purdy later [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Today i be Mostly filling the swear jar , cos the fuel rails don't fit and ive been hacking fmic pipework about, to make the clocked front entry turbo fit Rain stopped play , hopefully I'll get it back together tomorrow [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Today I be mostly ripping it to bits (again) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome . Budget and what you want to do with it are probably the first things you need to decide . If you just want to buy a standard car and remap it too just under 300hp on a tighter budget wrx is probably the way to go . You can always add the extra bits to increase it's performance afterwards . If you've got a bit more cash to buy the base car and want to chase ponies straight away ,newage sti is probably a better choice . Due to bigger standard turbos and stronger 6 speed box . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

At least it won't burst into flames parked in a canal [emoji87] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Does it go away if you brake gently? Or set the diff to full front or full back and see if it still does it If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had a hard day at work ,as I'm still recovering from a easter/birthday weekend hangover. Decided to try and locate my v1sti speed sensor wiring on a pdf diagram. Fell asleep on the laptop ..... Woke up 5 mins later with qwerty backwards embossed on my face and a ebay wish list tab open for about £1,700 worth of scooby bits [emoji33] . On the plus side i Narrowly avoided a divorce (only cos qwerty backwards isn't my pay pal password ) and think I've now found the plug that leads to the ecu from the speed sensor [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome to s.o.c. Some hell'va sticky tyres you've got on that wagon [emoji39] Phase 1 yellow 440 cc injectors will be a straight swap but they're getting rare now . Phase 2 yellow 440's will fit with "phase adapters " which cost about £ 40 including new O rings. Either set of yellows will max @ about 350hp but you can't just fit the injectors or fuel pressure reg . As the ecu won't be able to adjust the fuelling enough itself and will have to be remapped. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The "laser" brand clutch alignment tool available from halfrauds works with the 5 & 6 speed pull type clutch [emoji6] If you're in Suffolk your welcome to borrow mine If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Are you comparing oil temps to before and after Duncan mapped it ? As the jdm ecu had probably tweeked the fuelling and pulled timing out. Creating a safer colder map for our uk fuel to stop it leaning off . Since mapping your probably running more boost and a tighter afr . If you've been using the same grade oil for a while and it's only done it recently, I'd look at what else might have changed . Have you taken off any heat shields ,doing longer journeys since you moved or Changed a air filter maybe ? I don't know for sure cos I'm no oil expert like tim . I think a 5 w will be thinner when cold than the 10w ,so 5w will flow better when cold but it will be thinner creating more piston slap until up to temp . The 50w will be thicker at 100% (once up to temp) and might cause more wear if the engine is quiet when up to temp with the 10w 40 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Main thing is to decide what you want from the car once it's done (daily driver ,track toy or oe spec) As @ 330hp + it gets expensive, forged build, bigger turbo and drive train upgrades won't leave you much change from £4k ,even if you do all the work yourself . Do you know what version impreza you have ? As this will help us know what version engine will be a straight swap. If the coil pack is in the centre of the inlet it's a v4. if the coil pack is to one side it's a v5 . The main reason I reshelled mine was because of the rear arch and suspension turrets had rotten away . Is it a clean shell ? As the last thing you want is to spend time n money on a cars mechanicals to only find out it will fail a mot due to rot .then end up spending another £1k getting it back roadworthy and looking good . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I can understand where the mot tester is coming from, as if it's badly corroded in one place it's probably not as strong as needed elsewhere. A clean second hand subframe off a jdm of the same year would probably cost under £100 but I'm not sure how much it would cost to fit . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Most of us run ngk 7's with a slightly smaller 0.65 mm gap in higher boost aplications (remapped ) As Jay said the air and fuelling could also cause flat spots . When was the last time the air filter was changed and do you use the same octane fuel everytime ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Does sound like you've replaced most of what I would have suggested tbh . I personally have never taken apart or bled a power steering system on a scoob . Seeing as it's affected by temperature was the new fluid the right grade ? Maybe bleed the system again ? Were all the above parts new genuine subaru bits ? Hope you get it sorted soon If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've had 2 classic flywheels skimmed and both exedy pink box clutches handled 350hp fine with no problems or judder .spigot bearings are well worth doing imo .As they only cost £12 and they just "tap" into the centre of the fly to steady the idle shaft . the 3rd scoob I fitted a new clutch too had a paddle clutch originally . It had eaten into the flywheel and left deep ridges and visual cracks . So that was swapped for a lightweight flywheel as it looked well beyond a "skim" . Where's the leak coming from and have you got any other issues with the box ? As there's 3 main oil seals on the gearbox (prop and drive shafts x2) which normally leak gearbox oil . If its leaking engine oil the crank seal directly behind the flywheel or the back of the sump are the usual culprits. These are easy to change when the box is out and only cost about £15 each from icp If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊