savage bulldogs

Mine have Fixed top mounts on the rears but I've already got elbaich camber bolts on the rear. You could swap the front top oe camber bolt for the rear top oe straight bolt . If your hks ones have pillow ball fronts [emoji6] Either way i'd suggest to use a top camber bolt on the rears cos otherwise the rear camber is unadjustable and the oe camber might alter if you lower the back end If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had a little tweek and test with the suspension this afternoon and I think I'm ready to get it geo'd up now . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome to s.o.c Always glad to hear someone restoring a classic, rather than scrapping one [emoji106] If you've definitely got spark ,fuel ,correct timing marks and compression it does sound like a electrical timing issue . Is it a v2 or v3 ? (96 is a Change over year) Was the donor engine out of a uk or jdm ? I've never had any issues with a jdm to uk swap but I have always used the engine loom and sensors from the type of car rather than the type of engine . I have heard that when doing uk to jdm swaps that the cam and crank sensor pins are different from uk to jdm .hence why I've always used the sensors from the car rather than from the engine I'm fitting. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've seen a few people ask for different spring rates as cyberspeed lists different rated springs for the leggy's and fozzie due to the extra weight . I spoke to Edwin about different spring rates and he suggested sticking with the gc8 tried n tested spring rates for my usage. Unsure what they were tbh but on my sti (originally 30mm lower than uk or wrx) with a 15mm drop on the front,20 mm drop on the back and the damper set at 16 / 32 they seem fine for road use so far . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As far as I'm aware the door and windscreen glass is the same dimensions between wagon / saloon and uk /jdm . But the UK door glass has a green tint and jdm has black .As I had 1 green uk tint in my rear door on my jdm (which drove me nuts for months lol) but I'm unsure if the tint is the same on uk/jdm windscreens If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Stants I agree they do look real purdy and I haven't seen any bad reviews on the meister 's yet .They seem to get better reviews after long term use than teins or b.c's . Both of those seem to crop up for sale second hand with leaks and complaints of a harsh ride . ( time will tell if they're any better or worse though) Honest they were advisorys. ..... But mainly cos I advised the mot tester that they needed changing😉 I'll try to prise the laptop of my daughters tonight and run through the rears tonight. I did consider writing a "how 2" but my spelling let's my spanner monkey skills down .so your welcome to chop n change it to make it work ,but in the meantime it will give other members a idea of what's involved when fitting them 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

well the weathers been a bit better lately but instead of fitting some of the engine bits I thought id buy something else the front shocks were given a advisory on the mot last year and I fancied a change from the elbaich springs oe shocks and group n top mounts so I took a punt on a set of meiser r zeta coilovers I'm already running elbaich rear camber bolts and the new coilovers come with pillow ball front top mounts so I ordered some extenders to adjust the rear dampening easier and some anti corrosion spray ,when they arrived the seemed to be quite well made I knew a few members on here were considering fitting new suspension so I took quite a few pics while fitting them and will chuck a few pointers in too your probably better off to give the threads on the bolts at the bottom of the struts a wire brush a squirt of wd before you start, if the suspension doesn't look like its been off in a while . I just cracked off the wheel nuts and the top mount nuts under the bonnet first , then jacked the front of the car up and got it securely on axle stands . wheels off then used a big breaker bar ,19 mm socket and spanner to undo the bottom strut bolts but left 1 bolt in to hold it all in place next up was to disconnect the brake line ,I had already cut the bracket that holds the brake line when I fitted the front struts .As doing this means you don't have to disturb the braking system and have to re bleed it I removed the last bottom strut bolt and removed the strut from the hub, then supported the weight of the strut while I undid the top mount bolts under the bonnet so I could withdraw the complete "leg" from under the arch . of cause I took the opportunity to clean the inner strut turret while the leg was out then sprayed the coilovers in anti corrosion spray to help with my ocd . put the new coilover in position and loosely did the topmount nuts by hand I used a block of wood on a scissor jack to slowly raise the hub while I guided the coilover over it copper slipped the bolts fitted the bottom bolt first and put the top "camber" bolt in the neutral position (cam facing upwards) while the scissor jack was still in position I hand tightened the top mount bolts before using my torque wrench to tighten both lower strut bolts to 75flbs and not forgetting to secure the brake line into the bracket on the coilover rinse and repeat for the other side ,double check everything under the arches is as tight as it should be, pop both front wheels back on and slowly lower the car making sure the wheels don't hit the wings ,like mine nearly did but ill explain that after I've run through the rears next time then finally tighten the top mount securing nuts ,check the pillow ball adjusters are in the neutral position and tight along with the wheel nuts I sort out a bit of a write up on the rears next week along with a few pointers on base heights to start from when fitting this particular brand to a classic

Phase 1.5 v3 or v4 will be a straight swap bud If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Most breakers chuck the fuel lines away (it's the first one I've ever seen fubar) try scoping face book for a second hand fuel line of the same phase . Or spend a couple of hundred and get a parallel line set up 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Never heard anything about plugs welding themselves into the heads . Hear it start from cold to rule out knocking or piston slap . At 148k I'd be asking for the cambelt to be done (if it's bought from a garage) as this will set you back £400 ish . Subaru main dealer service history is a bonus as it will have probably wanted for nothing and been well looked after . Rusty arches normally start from the inside out so expect a £300 + bill to sort each one . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Think a couple of members have cleaned their icv (possibly using electrical contact cleaner) but hopefully someone else who has done it will point you in the right direction If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I used a multi fitment (corsa) halfrauds spacer to fit the vibe black air speakers in my classic . Had to re drill a couple of holes but they work fine If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Is it a fuel or vacuum line that's been repaired ? If it's fuel I personally wouldn't take the chance that it won't leak again and spray fuel all over the bay If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Import car parts will probably have them in stock [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

That's not cash tom. .... they're 4 wheel alignment vouchers for when I'm happy with the ride height [emoji6] Gaulson there's always room for more scooby shiny stuff and I've still got the parallel fuel rails and sr40 turbo to fit once the weather's better [emoji39] So far I like the less body roll in the twisties and the nose doesn't lift as much when I hit full boost in a straight line If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Fitted the rear coilovers today it now sits 15mm lower than the stock sti suspension with the damper set at 16 / 32 ( halfway between hard n soft) Took it for a "scooby clinic" test drive [emoji87] aiming for potholes and speed bumps and it took them in its stride [emoji41] Might still lower it a bit more before I get it geo'd up but I want to see how it runs with 3 passengers in first to make sure it's not gonna rub anywhere. Also had a ally forge header tank turn up today ,it's a bit manky but nothing a good polish won't sort [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's been stood up a while it might be moisture or corrosion on either a earth or a loom plug. I'd visually check that there all making a good connection, maybe even check the ecu board for dry joints and any other mods in the loom . Just might be worth a try before pulling the dash 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I'm doing the rears tomorrow morning ,hopefully get chance to squeeze in a oil n filter change too If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Somehow i managed to finish work early today [emoji55] So to keep myself busy I've fitted the front coilovers this afternoon If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Glad the leggy's running right now Geoff [emoji41] But Those seats look like Mrs hunny monsters "time of the month" axe wound [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hmm last count I'm on my 28th car so won't list em all lol . 1st car was mk1 escort 1300e with full Burton 1760cc race engine, twin carbs ,branch manifold ect ...It ate gearboxes and spun the wheels in 3rd in the dry and wish I still had it [emoji30] Mk1 Scriocco gti ,used to hydroplane in the wet [emoji33] Mk1 astra gte and a few cav sri's Renault 5 gt turbo running about 180hp ,although it was dangerous it was proppa fun and I with I still had it [emoji57] Last motor before the scoobies was a v6 3ltr 24v omega engined vectra b which wouldn't move in the snow (hence the switch to 4wd scoobs) Thought I'd add a couple of the worst ones .... Renault 11 1400cc drove like a underpowered boat. 1960's mini van the 850 cc engine lasted 3 hrs ,so I dropped a 1300cc metro lump in it the same afternoon I bought it. Mg maestro ,yeah I know but it was only £125 and it had 6 months tax 'n ticket Currently the 94 v1sti and the 1300 cdti combo work van, which almost makes running the scoob carbon neutral due to its economy [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Was your motor cold stants ? Cos the esl in my v3 didn't like my noisy pistons and kept adjusting the map (making it richer) to compensate for what it thought was knock . So If yours was cold and "slapping" a bit it might have thought it was knock ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

There is another fuse box near the bonnet catch under the drivers side kick panel. Unsure if That's were the main relay is as "sparks" ain't my thing and my brv normally helps in that department [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah me too ,i think he's only selling it to buy a sti hatch . The gearbox and brakes are worth just over £2k so £1.5k for the rest of the car Inc the 2.1 engine seems like a bargain, hence why I shared it on here [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Thought you boys would have had enough free(rain) water lately [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊