savage bulldogs

I'm unsure if the na is the same as the twin cam turbo but here's a few things that might leak in that area . There's a small o ring in the join in the dipstick tube . front camshaft / crankshaft seals and cam cover gaskets are also a possibility. Have you had the passenger side cam cover off to investigate? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Do like a white saloon, lovely looking example [emoji106] Maybe try rotating the pic on your device and saving it then post it ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Speak to luke @ import car parts, he had some in stock earlier this year [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I was lucky enough to find a second hand forge header tank with a bit of damage to the bottom outlet pipe for £35 . So its gonna cost a tenner to weld a new outlet on it plus a bit of elbow grease to get it shiny again . I've had a bit of input into the new design and added a different top mounting bracket. So we can use a couple of plastic spacers to lessen heat soak from hot coolant onto the inlet manifold where the header tank mounts . I won't have a prototype for a month or so .I'll start with the v1 & v2 phase 1 as I can run this on mine and put it through its paces before anyone else buys one . Just thought it could save us a few quid and smarten up our bays by replacing the fugly oe tanks without having to sell any of our kids to fund it [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've been pricing up some custom ally bits for my v1 at a local fabrication firm and after getting him to repair my forge header tank , he said he could make something of similar quality for about £100 .(forge ones are about £180 to £200 ) I know the v1 / v2 is different from the v3 / v4 but does anybody know if any other versions use the v3 /v4 ally header tank with the steel top? (As he could make a few of these too) would anyone else be interested in one if he made some ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Any v3 / v4 one will be a straight swap . This is probably the best pic I've got of the standard v3/v4 airbox . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sti and uk /wrx use the same airbox, it's the inlet phases that change the airbox shape . 93 (v1) to early 96 (v2) are the same . Then The turbo intake changes to run under the inlet for v3 onwards and they use a different air box Late 96 v3 to early 98 v4 are the same as each other but I'm unsure if they differ from v5/v6 . What version is your scoob ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I didn't like hawks [emoji102] until I saw that one [emoji6] If it's not oe it's been upgraded with somthing rcm and the bays far cleaner than mine [emoji15] Back to the op , have you driven one with dccd to make sure its worth the extra dough nick ? I'm sure which ever route you take nick you'll still end up with a sweet motor . Mine hasn't got abs ,airbags or air con (let alone dccd)[emoji53] but the light back end and stiffer rear suspension means it kicks the back out before the front [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Some newage jdm sti's have big port heads with posibily over sized valves as well . You can mechanically fit any 2ltr heads to a 2ltr ,2.2ltr and 2.5 ltr bottom ends. once you know the piston bowl and head chamber size to work out the headgasket thickness needed to equal the 8.5.1 compression ratio . It's the , auxiliaries ,sensors and loom that I couldn't be bothered to modify . you can buy phase adapters to make different phase inlets fit different heads on classics but I didn't research if you can convert classic inlets to newage heads . As using a classic inlet of the same phase as the car makes the auxiliary ,sensor and loom work simples 😉 If your going 2.1 you'll obviously need to get "stroker" pistons or rods . As the longer throw on the 2.5 ltr crank in a 2ltr block ,will make standard pistons and rods stick out of the deck face about 2mm too far . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If sparks is your forte how about running avcs heads , as they're supposed to help with spool . Mine is slightly quicker than my mates 2.1 with a tdo5 18g and short ratio box . He's running 375 hp think I'm running about 340hp but the custom inlet and shorter fmic pipework seems to help with spool . Even with twin turbo's I think I'd have to have 1 downpipe (rather than a y pipe) as I would want it unequal to keep the burble If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just about anything is possible so it really depends on your budget or fabrication skills. As Geoff said a vf 35 or tdo5 18 g billet would hit 350hp + with quick spool . I'd be tempted to fit either of those to your 2.1 ,get it run in and then mapped with anti lag first . At least you'd have a fast road car for the time being while you save up for drive train and bigger/different turbo . You might even decide to stick at 350hp .... cos as I've found out ,that's plenty of power in a lightweight classic to see most things disappear from the rear view mirror [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Dunno much about the h6 conversion but Simon roe's classic had one with 2 sc42's and it made over 1,000 hp [emoji7] So I'll leave this pic for you to dribble over lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've heard nothing but good feedback with Alan Jeffrey ,so good choice . Is it going back together standard or are you upgrading anything? Sorry just read your previous post rather than looking at the pics lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I did think about running a legacy bi turbo set up but the over complicated nature of the vacuum system used in legacys to run a primary (small turbo) and a secondary (bigger turbo) put me off. Hence why most big power legacy builds normally convert to single or twin scroll turbos [emoji6] I did consider getting a exhaust manifold made up to run 2 hybrid tdo4's .As I'd imagine having 2 turbos the same size would simplify the vacuum but the cost of getting both exhaust and inlet manifold modifications made that impractical for me .... Well I still like the twin hybrid tdo4 idea but it will never happen until I at least get another car for a daily driver and promote the scoob to a (summer time only) second car [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As stants said you normally get higher knock from cold starts ,highest I've seen on mine is 11 during cold start . When warm and under boost I've seen 38 knock but I'm running nearly 1.6 bar and noisy forged internals . So probably not the best comparison if your engine is standard If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I couldn't tell you what normal knock levels are on a oe ecu as I'm running apexi fc and I think the scale is different. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Get the one for your version/model scoob cos all classic knock sensors bolt on the same . It's the plugs that differ and you want plug to match your car's loom If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you fancy a change then I agree with tidgy and go for a spec c hawk , but I've got a bias opinion since I saw this one in the flesh on my local clubs stand [emoji7] if you're happy with yours cosmetically and mechanically ,you can change the factory understeer set up with suspension settings to make the back end kick out first . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah It was free flowing enough to run 320 hp on my mates 93 wrx . It's been in the scooby shed for a yr or so just in case I ever need a spare If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've got a sports cat with divorced wastegate but I'd want about £130 posted . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The cheap catch vta can I bought does the job but if I had the time and money I'd have fitted one that returns to sump . As I have to empty mine 4 time's a year and I take it off completely and rinse it out every spring . Deleting the oil breathing system is a worth while mod imo especially if you're looking at doing track days, when it will be breathing heavy . I'd definitely consider a baffled sump and fuel swirl pot if you do intend on doing a quite a few track days. As this will reduce fuel "slosh" and oil surge/starvation when cornering heavy . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The rears are pretty much the same as the fronts but here's a few pics and pointers The back of the rear seats has to be removed to gain access to the rear top mounts ,so the lower rear bench needs to be removed first by undoing the 2 bolts (where the rear passengers calves would be) and "unhooking" it from the centre hook on the back rest .The back rest is held on by 3 bolts at the bottom and is hooked over the rear parcel shelf with the rear seats removed crack off the 3 12mm nuts on each top mount and the wheel nuts before you get the back end up and on axle stands. with the car secure and the wheels removed crack off both 19mm bolts at the bottom of each strut and remove the brake line from the strut bracket . in my pic the top bolt is a elbaich camber bolt hence why its a different size and colour I forgot to take a pic of me removing the rear legs but here's a pic from when I fitted the new old shocks last year using the scissor jack with a block of wood to just take the weight ,I totally removed the bottom lower strut bolt and left the top one loose and in situ with the nut off the end .This was to stop the weight of the hub/leg assembly pulling down on the top mount bolts while I tried to remove them . next up remove the 3 top mount bolts and slowly lower the scissor jack while trying to remove the last strut bolt . make sure you don't let the weight of the suspension leg crush or split the c.v gator as you withdraw the "leg" from under the arch . the top of the rear suspension turrets trap mud so this area is well worth a clean up while the leg is off . I fitted the extenders to the rear coilovers before fitting them to the car, as I have a rear strut brace and space is a bit tight even with a 1/4 drive socket set but the extenders do look like they might be easy enough to fit afterwards (choice is yours) .I just did the 3 nuts finger tight until the cars back on the ground again. using the scissor jack and block of wood I raised the hub while guiding the coilover into place to fit the lower strut bolts . Holding the top camber bolt in the neutral position with the scissor jack still in place (to keep the suspension rigid) I tightened both lower strut bolts to 75 flbs then re fitted the brake line to the strut bracket same again for the other side ,double check everything under the arches on both sides is tight and secure ,refit the wheels and slowly lower the car making sure the wheels don't foul on anything . once the cars on the ground tighten the 3 nuts on each top mount and check the front and rear wheel nuts are all tight . I went for a 15mm drop on the front and 20mm on the back that left the old girl looking like this

Top mount intercooler (tmic) front mount intercooler (fmic) As the UK or gt tmic isn't very efficient over 330hp. If your current injectors are yellow in colour they'll be 440cc which are good for 340hp . There's a wide range of turbo's to choose from pending on budget You can ask esl to put a base map onto the ecu but you will only get the most out of your mods if you have it live mapped whilst it's in your car If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's a late 98 it might have yellow 440 cc injectors (good for 340hp) if it's got grey 380's they're only good for 290hp ish . But otherwise as tidgy said plus either a tmic upgrade or fmic to keep the charge temps down in your slightly warmer climate If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Took it for a good test run last night and no rubbing [emoji5] I've set the damper back to 16 / 32 as when it was set at 20/32 on Sunday they made the Mrs mods jiggle to much .which is dangerous as I couldn't keep my eyes on the road [emoji23] Seeing as I've got the damper set bang in the middle of hard and soft and +4 makes a noticeable difference, I can't see that anyone couldn't find a stiffer or softer setting that wouldn't suit their needs [emoji41] If I was to be Uber critical the only thing that I don't like compared to the elbaich springs and group n top mounts is the road noise has increased due to the solid top mounts on the meister ' s. Longevity is really the only unanswered question but obviously I won't know what that's like until I've had them on a while [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊