savage bulldogs

Think that's the first post about a subaru propshaft being worn I've come across. They don't often fail so it could be worth checking rear diff mounts to see if they've caused the problem (excessive movement ) and it might be cheaper trying to source a second hand prop from a reputable breakers. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The change in bigger injectors will mean it's probably over fuelling and the boost map will be miles out due to the bigger compressor and lack of cat . I wouldn't drive it ,especially not on boost before you get it mapped . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Definitely don't just turn the key and try and start it , the bearings will be bone dry and you'll probably damage the bottom end . As ghost n tidgy said a good service and fresh fuel is a good starting point to see what you have mechanically. A timing belt check ,change of oil and a few full engine rotations by hand . Pull the crank sensor plug off then turn it over with the key ,as this will stop it starting untill the fresh oil has coated everything. Plug the crank sensor back on and cross yer fingers , best of luck ,keep us posted and don't forget the pics [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Quite a few people have gone for a alternative pumps to the walbro lately. I personally run a rcm pump but opinions differ and some use other brands. Standard reg will be fine at that level of tune but I don't like anything running more than standard pressure unless the fuel lines are replaced / uprated on older cars. if you want the get a adjustable reg I'd suggest a fuel lab one . Most map out the mafs but I personally prefer the safe guard of having the extra sensor in place and I haven't had a early maf fail in 20 k /4 yrs . I will be upgrading my early maf for a z32 one but I do run a apexi fc ecu (hasn't got a maf less option) and I'll max the oe maf at 360 hp ish on my next remap . What route are you thinking of going for the remap ? If it's esl daughter board I don't think the early v1 & v2 boards are capable of running mafless, so that only really leaves ackertek or big money syvecs to achieve a mafless running map . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You need a pic of the model code on the passenger side front strutt under the bonnet. Then have a search through the "applied model codes" in a sticky thread on here (somewhere lol ). Pic of the sti build plaque One of the model code plaque I doubt it's a sti as I'm sure they only made them from 94 onwards and tbh mine is the earliest date I've seen so far . The early wrx's still come with the "closed deck block" which with the right internals is the strongest 2ltr block subaru made . It will also have a tdo5 16g turbo as standard which is good for 350hp .so its quite likely that it is running close to 300hp cos the grey 380 cc injectors will max out at 290hp ish . If you do go to look at it just check the inner rear arches for rust and hear it start from cold to rule out knock or piston slap. If you bring it home start with plugs and fluid service and if it seems to run ok get it on a dyno to make sure it's running ok before you start giving it too much beans [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Being a 92 it will have the wrx cams, so it might not make quite as much power but my 94 sti made 347hp on 440's with the standard fuel pressure and other supporting mods . Cheapest option to get near your target hp would be second hand 440's ultrasonically cleaned . I run nismo 555cc injectors (nissan injectors with a tab filed off the plug ) these are good for just over 400hp . You can also get second hand phase 2 440's made bigger "cc" by Mark agin @ lateral performance but I'm unsure of costing Either way your scoob will run a phase 1 fuel rail set up so phase 1 or 1.5 side feed injectors will be a straight swap but they can only be cleaned not modified (made bigger) Phase 2 side feeds are easier to come by and can be modified but you will need "phase adapters " which cost about £ 40 including new "o" rings ,to make them fit your phase 1 rails I will add that I've known 3 early classic gearboxes spit their dummy out at 330hp, so if you're definitely looking for 350hp it could get expensive at the limit of the early drive train . As It cost me £1.5 k to upgrade to a stronger 6 speed [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

A genuine v1sti will have a build number plaque on the drivers side turret and intercooler water spray (v2 onwards didn't have the plaques wrx's don't have the water spray ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

How's the general engine temp ? If the decat upipe hasn't been mapped in it might be running a bit lean and therfore hotter If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bought some thermal inlet spacers and a few hoses for the spring offensive 😊 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

you used to be able to update the software on the simtek to alcertek ,I'm unaware If anything has changed but I've never owned either myself. how far away is Alan Jeffreys from you cornish? , might be worth giving him a call If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's a new ecu the simtek should have come with the ackertek update. Is the ecu definitely for a v1/v2 ? As the v1/v2 tps has 4 wires and the v3/v4 tps has 3 (so the engine loom differs) I have heard there's a difference between jdm and uk for the crank and cam sensor pinouts but I would've thought it wouldn't run at all if they're the wrong way round. I'd maybe consider getting a second opinion from somewhere that knows their scoobs a bit better, when you get it back . Have you got any graphs of the afr ,boost ect ? If it's over fuelling that bad I wouldn't drive it to much ,as it's likely to cause "bore wash" unburnt fuel strips the bores of oil causing wear If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'd imagine it would fit fine but I've never looked into sticking things onto mine ...... I'm thinking removing bits to make it lighter 😊 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The saloon Shell is the same shape from v1 to v6 as far as I'm aware. Whats the vortex generator do , Or is it just cosmetic ? Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I've seen the company advertise on here but I'm unsure if they're a sponsor of the club (so no offence intended) I personally wouldn't touch a cheap new turbo ,as it can be very costly if it fails (possible engine rebuild ) and they rarely make good reliable power . If you've got a 2ltr a 20g would be quite laggy . A genuine tdo5 16 g will make 350hp with supporting mods or a vf34 for better spool and 330hp Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

What front end is on yours ? The difference between late 96 v3 and 92 to early 96 v1&v2 is. Rear bumper ,Grill ,headlights, bonnet , bonnet vents and scoop . Give either ht autos or daren bezent @ abw a email to see whats available for a "preface" (if yours has a v1/v2 front end) Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I used wheelworx based in Colchester but they can be mobile and I think they've got other branches . Think they charged £260 Inc vat for all 4 tyres off ,rims painted and tyres rebalanced with new valves . I was even cheeky enough to get 2 new tyres delivered to them so they could fit those instead of the old ones . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice work [emoji41] Will admit I keep saying that I need some newage sti rims to be my salt slags ,so I can keep the rotas in good condition for the summer . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had my 4 wheel alignment done today Seems to handle better but I haven't pushed it yet due to the damp roads [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Normally a remap will be done with 3rd & 4th gear pulls but when under higher load conditions (in 5th , 6th, going uphill or even colder denser air) There's more pressure in the inlet manifold. This can cause a difference in of pressure in the boost control vac system. In turn creating a different boost pressure that the one set by the mapper and somtimes hitting the max pressure boost cut target set by him . Hence why my mapper tweeks the map at different driving conditions and throttle positions after each map [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just had a look through a few pics and the small bore hard pipe isn't a vac line. It's either coolant or oil breather (can't remember which) You can leave both hard pipes in situ connect up the small bore one and blank the opening off the intake that the s pipe connects to . maybe using the same bung the previous owner used to seal the end of the recirc hard pipe . As if you've got a vta dump valve you don't need the big bore hard pipe but you must blank the hole in the intake pipe .otherwise it will suck in Un metered and Un filtered air . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Is it a little plastic elbow that runs off the intake pipe to the recirc hard pipe that's snapped off? If so and your running a vta dump valve you can just bung the hole where the elbow was .then either re run the smaller vac line hard pipe in silicone or refit the hard pipe (with the elbow hole bunged) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just read your mod list as you said the turbo doesn't kick in till 3.8k . Are you running stock headers ? As tubular headers are lighter and increase spool over the stock cast iron ones . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I don't know what either pipe is called but . It looks like either.... the hard pipe that runs on top of the inlet manifold from the icv to the intake pipe . Or the hard pipe that runs underneath the inlet between the factory recirc valve to the intake . If it's the recirc valve one and your running a vta dump valve. you have to "bung" or remove it and "bung" the hole in the intake pipe it goes to . If you do remove it and your still running a purge system, you will need to reroute the small bore hard pipe vac line though If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'd imagine the 440's would be good for 330hp @ standard fuel pressure, pending on supporting mods. Are they phase 1 or 2 440's? I run 550 cc nismos ,nissan injectors with a tab filed off the plug and phase adapters. Or You can get phase 2 440's made bigger by the likes of mark @ lateral performance. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

With a N.A the money's better spent on suspension , brakes tyres ect ... Basically anything to make it go round corners better and make the most of the 4wd system. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊