savage bulldogs

Double check any earth's or plugs near where you were working when you fixed the upipe leak . As if a earth is off it would make some sensors and voltage go haywire, but the recovery dude is right ,a unregulated alternator charge could give the same symptoms [emoji106]

The earlier pre 98 mafs do seem to be a bit hardier than the later ones, so it's not uncommon for the mafs to fail . Especially when fitted with a induction kit which has a coating of oil . Hence why some people opt to delete the maf when tuning scoobs . The standard air box coupled with a aftermarket panel filter are good for 350hp+ and are less likely to suck rain water towards the maf . usually the standard air box system only ends up being binned when fitting a fmic (330hp + on a classic tmic) . Do you not know anyone local with the same model so you can put it back to standard and try a working maf ? Or get it on a local dyno to see if they can suss it

In your pics you have a silver tmic (should be black as standard) have you got any other mods ? If so has it been mapped? I think it should be running 0.8 bar on the standard map ,so if the mods are trying to make more boost it might cause boost / fuel cut (as sam said) . It doesn't really explain the "all of a sudden" fault as it was running fine ,unless you've added a mod or used a lesser octane fuel .

Nice work stants I've been thinking about upgrading my engine mounts and was a bit worried if there'd be any extra noise or vibration . How much were they bud ?

Hmm thinking about buying a avcr but I'm unsure if it will control the boost any better than the apexi fc ecu with the apexi map sensor lead upgrade I'm currently running. I've scoured the net and can't see to find a definite answer [emoji57] But it is quite shiny so I might just go for it anyways [emoji5]

A service and a dyno run is always a good starting point

Looks like a nice clean example

I'd get the right oe maf in there and see if it runs right to make sure it's definitely faulty (if you're gonna chase a refund) In all fairness mafs are delicate thin bits of wire a slight knock or oil contamination can fubar em . So their likely to get away without paying out [emoji53] Hope you get it sorted soon chap

Is there any visual differences between the two mafs (bolt hole centres, shape length of element ) If the dealers are local maybe try taking your old one to them and comparing them side by side ? Or explaining that you've been given 2 different part numbers and want to know if you can send it back when opened if it's the wrong part

The pipework that passes under the inlet manifold is a pita to remove so have so plasters and a swear tin at the ready if you're going to remove it lol Icp sell just about everything for all models of subaru and are about the cheapest prices for oe stuff . Their website is handy to cross reference part numbers too

Any unmetered air entering the engine will cause rough idle as the maf and map sensors are getting conflicting info . hence why somtimes you get a maf code ,admittedly normally with a map sensor code if it's leaking air. When the engines cold start it and spray a little brake cleaner around the joins and bends of the maf to turbo pipework, the engine revs will rise if it sucks in the cleaner through a leak . Don't spray to much or spray it on hot parts (exhaust system ect) as brake cleaner is flammable. It could well be the maf, after all that's the code that's come up but it's just worth checking for a air leak as it's much cheaper than a replacement maf . Did you reset the ecu once you fitted the new maf ? As the ecu could still think that the maf is fubar if the codes weren't cleared . Have a look on import car parts website for the correct maf for your model ,if you think you've got the wrong one (or give your make n model a google)

Yeah it might, as when it's on boost if it's sucking in extra unmetered air (leak before the turbo) it would "lean off " and cut the boost . Leaks After the turbo (positive boost leak) would normally give you lack in power or whistling noise Just thought its worth doing a through leak test as it might not be maf Have you got any symptoms ? Cos ropey idle is fairly common with knackered mafs Is the maf sticker any particular colour ?

I'm starting to worry about you 2 [emoji33] Get a room will ya [emoji129] [emoji140] [emoji23]

Hi n welcome Early Classic mafs are normally identified by the colour of the label green, orange ,purple ect but I'm unsure which would be the correct one for your year .Maybe one of the v5/v6 uk impreza boys will know Have you checked for air leaks in the pipework between the maf and throttle body (intake tract ) as any air loss between maf and map sensor can somtimes ping a maf code , as the air pressure and air flow sensors information doesn't add up [emoji6]

I can't see it either stants [emoji15] Haven't done anything to my scoob for at least a week Starting to get the shakes ,guess I'd better scour the net at the weekend for something shiny [emoji5]

Hopefully the loom earth will be a cheap fix then , let me know how you get on bud Newage coil packs create the hi amp spark directly on top of the plugs giving a stronger spark . classic coil packs use a igniter behind the boost solinoid to create the high current. which then passes through the engine loom and makes it lose power through the longer length of wire causing resistance [emoji6]

No problem ,hope it's something simple bud . I don't know 100% if the classic coil packs need a earth to work but when I did the newage coil pack conversion on mine ,the newage coil packs had a 3rd wire that you have to "earth " to the bolt hole . The loom earth has a small loop (8mm ish) that just bolts to the inlet . The spur off the loom is near the washer bottle/ center of passenger fuel rail . Have you done a self code check on the ecu and checked your timing marks ?

Engine loom earth bolts to the inlet manifold between cylinder 2 & 4 near the fuel feed and return hard pipes

Is the engine loom earth (connects to the inlet manifold) and the main engine earth (connects to the starter bolt /bell housing ) connected ? I think they're might be a difference between jdm and uk for the crank sensor wiring (read it somewhere so not gospel ) if it is true ,is the replacement crank sensor from a jdm ? Symptoms do sound a bit like crank sensor or imoblizer issue , if it the same engine ,loom and ecu are you sure it's not the alarm? Did you earth the coil pack and the end of the plug when checking for spark ,cos newage separate "on plug" coil packs earth through the fixing bolt [emoji6] Have you checked the fuel pump fuse or relay ? Can't remember whether they have a relay or fuse or both tbh but it would be worth a squint

Have you driven /been in a classic? If not It's probably best to try before you buy to see if you like the rawness compared to the refinement of a newage I'd want that uk to have been dry stored and have no rust anywhere (especially rear arches and suspension turrets) for that money .As any 15yr old uk car will tend to suffer from tin worm due to the amount of salt chucked on our roads [emoji57] I haven't kept a eye on prices but I'd imagine that £5k would buy a reasonably fresh imported standard classic with better spec and no rust .

Classics have camber bolts as standard on the front shocks ,so I assume newage is the same . If you fit lowering springs it usually throws the camber out and the only way to check is to get a full 4 wheel alignment done. Of course the camber could be fine and the outer edge tyre wear Could just be caused from cornering a bit hard [emoji6]

My phone pics don't do it justice tbh it's a proppa minter . I think it was one of 8 originally imported for rallying but never got used (dry stored) and since Marcus got hold of it he never drives it if it's raining lol

+1 for a white spec c [emoji4] Especially a mint , sub 30 k one with a few rcm goodies like this one on my local forum I'm a classic fan through n through but would love one like that [emoji7]

Yeah if you're running low boost or have a boost leak it won't go off . my dump valve has a uprated spring ,so it just makes the turbo chatter at anything under 0.5 bar but when I back off the throttle at 1.5 bar it shhh's more than my mrs does if I talk during East enders [emoji4]

What would i do...... Fook it I'd just let the bulldog out for a meet n greet on the doorstep [emoji5] Or If you can't just bump into him outside your houses, I'd knock on his door . Then say that you'd like him to either pick his dog mess up or at least keep them off your property ,as a child had stepped in some and walked it in your house .