savage bulldogs

They do tend to suffer from wind noise due to the doors not having framework around the glass . Has it still got the front arch liners in situ and have you checked if the door cards have all their fixing clips intact? Some jdm models have wind deflectors but they're fairly rare as they go brittle and snap when removed

Most code readers won't work on classic scoobs but you can check the codes yourself [emoji6] http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/page-1 Have you changed the spark plugs recently? Is there any breathing mods fitted (cone ,decat ect ) If you've got a boost gauge what does it peak at?

I went for a rcm fuel pump not the cheapest but I didn't want to chance my arm with a cheap one [emoji6]

Just picked up the last piece of the preface jigsaw, some preface headlights [emoji41] Might trail fit the preface front end next weekend , it won't be staying on the scoob for long though. As although the outside of the car has a black n silver theme I don't think I'll like the look of a completely black bonnet on my silver scoob [emoji57]

The boost pill is in the vacumm lines between the actuator, turbo outlet vacuum and the boost solinoid (the exact location varies depending on version of scoob ) It's basically a narrow hole that the vacuum pressure squeezes through to keep it flowing at a steady pressure while the engine is under different loads ie uphill fully laden car would produce a different inlet manifold pressure to a unladen empty car going downhill at the same revs in the same gear ,which in turn will affect how the vacuum boost control system would respond (reducing the risk of over boost) There's a list of oe restrictor pill positions and sizes I put up on here (somewhere) and once you know what size and where it should be they're normally cheap and relatively available at subaru main dealers

Easy enough to do once the cam covers are off bud . they're made from rubber so they go hard and brittle and eventually weap , especially the one near the upipe due to the heat. I bought a new full oe cam cover set from import car parts as they're about the cheapest for genuine oe gaskets . I smeared a light bit of liquid three bond on all the seals but as long as the oe seals ain't squashed (bolts over tightened) and both surfaces are Uber clean with no deep scratches they shouldn't leak for another 50k + or until they go brittle again

The earlier wrx and sti models have separate coil packs that sit on top of each of the spark plugs and those are for the fixing bolts . They're unused on the later uk and wrx based varients which have a single coil pack attached to the inlets Make sure you get the correct version rocker cover gaskets for your scoob and replace the "half moons " at the back of the cams at the same time [emoji6]

I used a standard compound pagid pad with my old godspeed drilled n grooved discs which seemed to work well but did create a bit more "dust" than the previous harder compound kevlar pads though

As long as the discs are the same diameter and thickness standard discs standards pads will fit fine fella but your better off to get new pads as the old ones will be worn to the same profile as the old discs [emoji6]

Well didn't even make it back home from the airport car park without a grey haired old boy in a 58 plate skoda vrs over taking me in a national speed limit ,he had a big cheesy grin on his face as he passed which seemed to get the wife's goat lol she said " go on then you either wipe that smug look of his face or pull over in the next lay by and give me the keys " [emoji39] We ended up side by side at the next round about and by by old guy [emoji12] Definitely loving the slightly more stealthy sounding exhaust [emoji41] as once my point was proved and I reached the speed limit I eased off the gas ,he passed me shortly afterwards with more of a [emoji19] look (definitely wasn't a grin anymore lol) God I've missed my car [emoji4]

Flying back from crete today ,holidays almost over [emoji53] Looking forward too ..... driving the scoob ,picking up the bulldog from the kennels,having a go on the ps4 and proppa bacon [emoji4]

I fitted vibe kevlar components in the front and rear coupled with a vibe "space" 12" powered by a 2k kenwood amp which sounded awesome in my 3ltr v6 vectra [emoji55] the £800 set up lasted about 2 weeks in my first scoob then I sold it all and replaced it with a decent alpine head unit and vibe black series speakers front n rear. they're are great entry level speakers which don't drown out the scooby boxer sound track[emoji4]

Give "Asperformance " or "lateral performance " a bell as I think they sell the uprated pink box clutch kits for about £280 [emoji6] Main thing different about fitting a scooby clutch is they're "pull clutches" so you have to remove the clutch fork pivot pin to release the thrust race before you can split the engine and box. I'd also recommend getting the flywheel skimmed as if the current clutch has worn the flywheel you'll probably end up with "judder" due to the uneven surface not making full contact with the straight new clutch plate face

Don't know if you've got the same issue but The wiring was different between my old 97 UK turbo to my 94 jdm sti so I had to switch over the bit of loom that goes from inside the "b" post too the door switch . I'm not sure if was the jdm to uk or year's that changed though but I was lucky enough to have both cars so mixed n matched them to work. Maybe try refit the old drivers door card to see if it works ?

Have you done a compression test ? As this would rule out internal issues. Checked for breaks in the engine loom ,wiggle the wires near the suspect cylinder coil pack wiring. Are the coil pack plugs definitely plugged in the right way? As I plugged the front cylinder and rear cylinder in the wrong way round once [emoji5] And had the same sort of symptoms as the firing order was wrong on one head [emoji4] !Removed! thing still started and run though lol

As with any impreza handling tweeks will make a big improvement with speed while cornering Upgraded brakes will also help as you can brake later when entering a corner . Weight loss is a free mod which can help a bit (ac removal ect ...) As for more power I'm afraid tidgy's right Imo cos cheap classic turbos can be bought for under £1500 now days and will give you most of the upgrades above + 100 hp . If you fancy something different you could strap a supercharger to your n.a but by the time it's bought set up and you've upgraded the brakes , suspension ect to cope with the extra power your probably talking about wrx money +some

I can't get decent wifi where I am atm so can't cross reference the model codes (which are the best way to tell if its a proppa sti) but looking at the pics it looks like a sti due to the following Silver tmic (rare to find a second hand one worth fitting ) Red inlet manifold (the oe ones always have flaky paint) "Tuned by sti" aux belt cover Of course all these bits can be fitted afterwards by a previous owners but it does also look like it has the tmic water spray bottle (bottom left in the bay pic) this is normally not fitted by anybody but subaru probably due to the wiring to the spray pump and switch inside beeing a bit of a pain to fit . If the rear inner and outer arches are clean and it doesn't knock when cold or smoke I'd say it was worth a punt Imo

Over boosting is usually caused by someone fitting mods that let the turbo spool more freely (Decat downpipe, cone filter ect...) but it can also be caused by vacuum ,boost solinoid, actuator or map issues . Sounds like your best bet is (as tidgy said) to check your timing marks and get it on a dyno . As a decent dyno operator might be able to diagnose the issue and save you spending a small fortune on random parts trying to stumble across the fault . You don't want to be giving it full boost until you know your afr is correct cos if it runs lean it will go bang again [emoji53]

Hmm shiny scooby stuff [emoji4] Are the front "dog bone" front droplinks for a jdm sti ? As I thought all sti classics had ally wish bones and they usually use the different type of front droplinks that look a bit like they have a track rod at either end

Have you done a classic self code check? If not there's a how 2 in the tech section on here Have you tried cleaning the idle control valve and checked that the little gauze filter isn't perished? If it's not been remapped it should only boost to 0.7 bar ish ,so it's over boosting a bit .

The wifi is pretty !Removed! by the pool just give "Roger Clark motor sport" a Google they'll have a "contact us" email adress somewhere on their website bud

Will admit My saloon is sitting in a car park (at the airport) but it made the journey fine with 4 reasonable sized suitcases, a holdall and few tools in the boot me ,Mrs and my 2 teenagers sitting comfortable inside[emoji41] so I've got no need for a fugly ar5ed heavy wagon and will be sticking with the saloon [emoji55] all joking aside as long as it's quick and had a subaru badge I'd drive it cos it's all about the boost n burble in my eyes I would even drive a wagon cuz but only while wearing my (saloon) burbery cap and argos sovereign in'it blood [emoji23]

he had a (so called) reputable spray shop repair the bubbling rear arches and repaint the whole rear end at a cost of £3.5k a few yrs previous. 18 months and it bubbled again [emoji53] so he thought fook it and had it done properly by rcm . I think it was rcm that imported the inner and outer rear 1/4's direct from Japan and pointed him in the direction of a proppa paint shop . Think it took about a month for the panels to get to the UK but it does look mint [emoji41] I personally didn't have enough time, money or reason to save my old 97 UK turbo and did a re shell with a rust free jdm v1 sti instead [emoji6]

Thanks for the feed back fella[emoji106] I'm quite happy with the current kyb,group n top mounts ,Elbaich pro springs and camber bolts I fitted on the rear a couple of months ago but if I have to change the shocks and buy group n top mounts for the front soon I was debating whether to go for entry level (quality ) coilovers and sell the new rear set up with the full set of springs . Think I'll wait until mot time to see if they get a advisory and if not save the scooby funds for a t36 billet later in the year [emoji6]

The whole inner and outer arches are available in Japan But as you can imagine they're not cheap once imported . Here's a link to a mates scoob that's had the whole rear end renewed ,it cost him a absolute fortune to get it done properly by rcm but he only let's rcm work on his scoob and you can see why. http://www.scoobycity.co.uk/forums/forum/technical/modifications-projects/3902-project-robstopper/page80 Think the bodywork is on page 80 [emoji15] He's owned it a hell'va long time [emoji6]