savage bulldogs

Yeah either grind or drill the spot welds to get the splash guards off

Unfortunately a lot of body shops will just clean the arches and fill them ,rather than cutting the rust out on the outer and inner arch [emoji19] You've got to either catch it early and kill it off or completely cut out the heavily affected areas and replace them with new metal . Only thing you can do to try and lesson it spreading is keep the inner arch lip clean and protect it with waxoil or I've been looking at some stuff called dytronol (I think) rust treatment . It's on ebay and comes in spray cans that you can spray on existing rust /in chassis box sections to kill rust and protect the metal . But eventually you'll probably need to get the rust cut out and replaced to completely cure it [emoji57]

Yeah it didn't get undersealed so I thought I'd prep ,stone chip and paint it instead . As you can't see any rust developing under underseal and only find out its rusty when there's a hole .plus the painted top coat is far easier to keep clean with a coat of clear waxoil and regular jet washing [emoji6] The other side isn't as bad so I just did the worst area for now

Had a day off today and the weather's nice so thought I'd carry on with treating the surface rust under the scooby before they start chucking salt on the roads . The rear inner arches that I did last year have held up really well so I thought I'd use the same method at the back end . It's only really got a bit of surface rust around the spot welds under the rear 1/4's near the chassis and boot Wells Ground back and rust treatment Didn't take many pics of the rest of the stages but here's the end results after a coat of rust inhibitor based primer , stone chip and silver top coat Hopefully should keep the tin worm at bay for a while longer

Seeing as we were talking bush earlier I thought he said !Removed! not volvo ,same meat different gravy anyways as they both have old cnuts inside [emoji16] [emoji23] Sorry tidgy lol Dam you swear filter [emoji111] V#u#l#v#a

Here you go bud http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/page-1 It's a lot like morse code as the eml light flashes a number of ways and times to give you a number code that you can look up on the list

We all feel like one of those every now and then matt I just don't think the wife would like me bringing one home [emoji39] Sorry to hear that the scoobs got to go and best of luck with the sale [emoji106]

You should leave it stripped out like that for the pod ,you'd probably strip half a second off the 1/4 Do you know if those bushes will fit my v1 stants ?

I'm not a bearded clam kind of guy but I quite like a well kept and neatly trimmed bush [emoji4] Bet it's nice to be back in a scooby again ,even if it's on low boost for now what turbo are you going for tidgy sc 42 ,sc46 ?

Told you already stants next Time you do a oil change leave the sump plug out it will be broke then [emoji12] Happy days, i had a job cancellation for tomorrow ,no work and good weather, Gotta think of something that needs to be done on the scooby before the Mrs thinks of a random diy task [emoji39]

Have you done a classic self ecu code check? There's a how 2 in the impreza tech section amongst the sticky threads at the top If the code check shows no fault you could try changing the plugs and fuel filter (if they're due)

Sorry I didn't reply earlier stants I had no reception where I was working today ,phone went mental when I finally got signal on the way home . Glad you sussed now[emoji106] it looks like you'll have to get a nut welded in place and a plate welded over the hole . Or you could leave the hole and put the money towards that forged engine I told you about [emoji48]

I think alyn at as performance does some of carl daveys stuff along with harvey smith headers and upipes ,give alyn a bell as his website doesn't list much of his stock . Tidgy yours wouldn't need adapter plates as its a v5 type r so the heads are the same phase as your inlet /loom the adapter plates are to convert v1 to v4 "inline" inlet pattern heads to v5 onwards "staggered" inlet pattern so you can use early inlets on later heads and visa versa The 2.5's definitely have less lag and more torque than a 2ltr but i got my v1sti cdb long engine for free so stuck with the revvy 2ltr platform for my self build but would consider a 2.5 or 2.1 with avecs if i did it again

No problem bud, just sorry I couldn't be more help but 4wd gearboxes are witchcraft in my eyes so I've never dared to take one apart . Have you considered a good second hand box about £1k for just the box or dropping a cheap blobeye 5 speed in with the same ratio ,just to get it back on the road while you suss the 6 speed

I don't really know much about tuning the 2.5 ltr tbh so can't be much help I'm afraid but I think the chambers on the 2ltr heads need to be machined to accompany the bigger 2.5 ltr piston diameter ,unsure what difference that would make on the compression ratio and gasket thickness I'd imagine it would be easier to fit the original inlet manifold with the conversion plates unless you're fairly good at splicing looms to bridge the v3/v4 phase 1.5 to v5/v6 phase 2 differences with the icv ,tps ect . Using the cars original inlet would probably mean that you can retain the phase 1.5 fuel rail set up but you'd have to check that with whoever you buy the adapter plates off . Although it's forged with oversized head studs I'd imagine the main weak link will be the deck type so 450/450 would probably be it's limits. I think Classic heads do tend to be a bit restrictive above those power levels anyways ,so I'd research what turbo would hit just under those targets on a 2.5 ltr . I thought about a twin scroll conversion but on a 2ltr I'd really need avecs heads to make the most of it (unsure about on the 2.5 though) . Sounds like a interesting project and I was considering a 2.5 build when my 2ltr goes pop but I'd probably use v3 sti heads which will bolt straight on to my current v1 reversed inlet. Keep us posted on your project and feel free to start a build thread ,bud

It's not a s.c or md turbo hence why it's cheap but it's still garret cored and billet wheeled that's currently running 375hp @1.2 bar on a 2ltr seeing as I wanted to "clock" the coldside to loose the heat soak u bend from my fmic pipework ,I'd feel much happier hacking a £300 turbo to bits than a £1.5 k brand new one [emoji4]

Yeah I know [emoji53] once she finds out I might not be online for a while why I recover But it's not very often a second hand roller bearing 400hp + turbo comes up for sale for £300 so I told him I'll have it and brace myself for the ear ache [emoji16]

Tdo5 16g will spool a bit later (500 rpm ish) and they are getting on a bit but they take more abuse ,easier to rebuild ,hold the boost higher in the Rev range, will bolt straight on and cost about £150 instead of £350 + custom silicone elbow . Here's a graph up of my 94 sti with the standard engine running a tdo5 16g, tubular headers ,autobahn fmic ,decat and apexi intake This was at 1.2 bar it's now forged and running 1.5 bar but I haven't got a graph

Posibily bought a bigger garret cored turbo [emoji48] Shhhh don't tell the Mrs [emoji39]

I don't know for sure if the eml light would come on if the pump failed but I wouldn't have thought so as my o4 sti box (fitted to my classic only had 3 plugs . neutral position, reverse sensor and a part loom that connects to the rear lambda sensor (I removed the last one as my classic doesn't use a rear lambda) Although I wouldn't take that as gospel as never worked on a newage sti and I've never seen a dccd set up either but I'd imagine that the pump is mechanical and wouldn't have any wires connected to it

Couldn't help myself but you could try emailing or phoning mark at lateral performance or alyn at as performance (both normally very helpful) I think they both sell/fit uprated gear sets so might know a way of testing the pumps

I bought some group n top mounts (harder rubber) from import car parts they might do standard UK /wrx ones as well

No mate he's in Norwich Norfolk but most mobile mappers will travel to a dyno of your choice and tweek on the road afterwards if you ask them . 212hp to 265hp wasn't too bad on the road but 330hp + got me a few choice looks off other motorists ,cooked my brakes and made my nought nip [emoji4]

Have a look on my tyres.com I had a couple of firestones delivered to the wheel refurber's at a decent price and they seem to be performing ok . The exhaust was a bit "tongue in cheek" but true in my instance . As I had a 2k sound system in my previous car which I transferred to my standard 1st scoob[emoji41] once I fitted a aftermarket cat back and bell mouth sports cat I could hear the sweet spool and burble soundtrack I binned the heavy sub . I too like a quality sounding system (not just volume ) and currently run a alpine head unit ,vibe black series speakers in the front doors and vibe black 6x9's in the parcel shelf .

I've had both road and dyno remaps done and prefer my current mappers advice to map on the dyno and then "tweek" on the road afterwards That way it gives the mapper clean ,safe monitored pulls in a controlled environment (uninterrupted by traffic and safer) once the base map and different throttle positions are done he then "tweeks" the map on the road in different gears under different loads (real driving conditions )