savage bulldogs

Unfortunately yes , most reputable subaru specialists recommend getting the bottom end refreshed when a replacing a headgasket while the engines out anyway . As the pistons trying to combust coolant and the overheating can cause a lot of extra strain on the bottom end ,causing the bottom end to fail once the headgaskets have been replaced and the cars given back to the customer. Although some garages will replace just the headgaskets and the engine might well be fine but if it's not and goes bang their reputation could take a battering so i think thats why most say to refresh the bearings too [emoji6]

Early symptoms of headgaskets on boosted cars somtimes only happen when at 1/2 + throttle (when on boost) as there's much more pressure in the cylinders causing it to squeeze past the failing gasket (which eventually completely blows) The boxer layout (especially in open deck form) normally pushes combustion gasses into the coolant creating creamy grey foam and bubbles in the header tank . Rather than the usual oil and coolant mixing together that is the norm for straight 4 engine configuration id imagine the engine would be under a much greater load when pulling the weight of the car uphill than just rev'ing in neutral, hence why it was worse going uphill

I've just bought a aps sr40 which I think is based on the gt28rs (garrett duel ball bearing core)rated at 440hp. the aps turbos do tend to make less power than they say at aps but they're capable of running nearly 2 bar of boost although they do spool a bit later than a s.c or md turbo . I think mine hit 1.2 bar at 3.8 k on the last 2ltr engine with uk cams making 376 hp . I just intended on getting my mapper to up the boost to 1.5 bar and hopefully just break the 400hp/ 400 flbs mark . Does seem strange that the previous mapper only used 1.1 bar but the sr55 is a fair bit bigger than the sr40 and probably more suited to a 2.5 ltr. it would spool later and make it's boost higher in the Rev range on a 2ltr so that might be why it's a bit down on torque and mapped low on pressure

Sounds like you've got quite a few mods in place to support a hi power engine but unfortunately it looks like the block is semi closed and it will be the weakest link at about 450 hp (rods and oil pump pending ) Here's my closed deck block face to show the comparison in the amount of metal around the cylinder liners that give it the extra strength with the right internals 450 hp will still make for a fast low 12 second car on the quarter mile and put most other motors in their place [emoji41] Personally I'd contact whoever did the engine build and ask what power the engine was built for and wack a turbo on to achieve just under that target , so you can experience what 400 +flbs feels like before you break the bank with a complete fresh 2.35 build and rotated turbo set up costing £10k + [emoji6] As a 700hp set up would be Laggy and have a harsh clutch likely to be unsuitable for daily road use Imo

Does it have a 6 speed ? If not newage 5's are normally rated to about 400hp/400 flbs and swapped for either a 6 speed or fitted with uprated 5 speed gear sets . You might need to uprate engine/gearbox mounts and poly bush a few bits to deal with the extra stress . I'd imagine that you'd need a full brake upgrade over the brembos at 700hp to reign in those big ponies and curb the newage weight once moving

Closed deck blocks usually have ### markings under the alternator /above the center crank pulley, like in this pic if you zoom in cos it's not the best As stants said hi hp is nice but doesn't always work on the road . A big hi hp turbo will normally spool late in the Rev range , you'd probably find a 450hp car would be quicker spooling and a faster point to point car for road use .

Your target power is achievable with a 2ltr cdb block but would be easier with a 2.35 build . It's difficult to say whether your current engine would be up to 700 hp as i don't know the full spec or who built it . The pistons would have to be the Mahle "race" spec type . The head studs would have to have been converted to 14mm . The heads themselves would have to be worked jdm big port items . The block would have to be closed deck type . I'm unsure about the limits for your current manley rods , oil pump ,fuel pump ,injector size ,clutch and drive train . You'd probably need suspension and brake upgrades too . Why are you aiming so high with your target power and what power are you running at the moment?

My dad had a few classic fords that he'd shoe horned v6's in . 2.3 v6 anglia and my favourite 3.3 v6 mated to a 5 speed "crunch box" in a mk2 cortina that ran split rims with 255 rear tyres . He used to love upsetting v12 jags and turbo saabs in that . I've only ever regretted selling 2 of my previous motors .... Renault 5 gt turbo running 190hp, not bad for a 1400cc car made from kit kat paper (hell'va light) And my mk1 1300e 2 door escort running twin webbers, Janspeed manifold and a full blueprinted burtons race spec 1760cc engine . It used to eat 1600 s gearboxes on a regular basis and light the rear tyres up in 3rd in the dry[emoji33]

If it's a standard ecu ,remove it and pop the outer casing off and if it has been remapped it will have to have a esl daughter board fitted which will look like this one Bear in mind that If the donor scoobs not the same phase as yours the ecu won't be compatible due to the differences in ecu plugs

Once the engines warm check the 2 coolant pipes that go into the bulkhead towards the heater matrix are getting warm . The black and blue ones in this pic behind the gearbox bell housing are the flow and return. If 1 is hot and 1 is not the it's either a blockage or air lock in the heater matrix (little rad behind the dash) If they're both hot then it's probably the heater control cables that have either broken or disconnected from the flap that diverts the blower air through the matrix to heat the air and visa versa

No I hadn't heard of that project but if you search "wrxico" on you tube there's a time laps vid of a wrx engine and drive train being fitted to a mk1 escort [emoji41]

UK'S and some ra's don't have rear wipers but all import wrx and sti models do [emoji6]

Think the Add says my 93 (v1)[emoji6] Personally I'm unsure if it's a sti as the early v1 sti's all had build plaques on the drivers side turret (can't see one in the pics) .I wasn't going to say anything but seeing as it's being broken and the engines fubar it won't affect the value of parts to the op [emoji6] although all classic sti's have forged pistons the early v1 & v2 have the weaker "dog bone " shape piston chambers which are prone to cracking and splitting piston rings when pushed or unmapped Even from v3 sti onwards most classic heads will start to "lift" and rods are at their limit at 380 hp hence why standard head bolts and gaskets are normally binned for uprated ones if aiming for close to 400hp

What county are you in ? As I might be interested in a few bits if it gets broken and not bought whole to fit a new engine. If it was mapped to 392 hp , just about any standard classic engine/ drive train would spit it's dummy out at that level of tune [emoji6]

Think you're probably right there tidgy as my 97 v3 uk had the same code apart from the second "c" in your code was replaced by a "e" in mine . The paint code (406) is the same as both of my classics so it looks like your scoob was originally a silver v2 uk turbo [emoji6]

The gc8ck8d number is the model code, I haven't had chance too look but have a squint on scoobypidia

+ 1 for googling if your wheels clear brembos as my old 4 pots had stacks of room under my 17" rota boosts but due to the curved shape of the spokes, once I fitted the brembos and bigger dia discs I had to run 3 mm spacers to give enough clearance . What pads are you running, same brand as before you had the discs skimmed? If you do go for brembos either buy from a trusted breaker or make sure you ask the seller if the mounting threads/ bolts are good as well as overall condition As they do tend to strip the threads in the calipers ,cos their made from ally. You can get the threads repaired (hellicoiled) but it normally costs around £100 for the set i changed to brembos because grooves on the inside faces of my old 4 pot discs used to fill with brake dust and cause "warped disc" symptoms . I just assumed that I was pushing the brakes limits heat wise and the outer faces stayed cooler .

Been pulling things apart that don't need fixing [emoji15] As I've been trying see if I can "clock" the new turbo to loose the u bend in the fmic pipework that gets heatsoak from passing over the hotside Looks like it might work [emoji41]

Fitted the new 330 mm momo jet steering wheel it's a slightly different shape to the old 330 mm momo course wheel and the leathers not as soft but I fancied a change and the old wheels soft leather had lost it's colour a bit in places . Also managed to fit a bit of the spec c sliver n black peddle set just didn't get chance to fit it all, as I was running out of light[emoji57] hence why my throttle pedal doesn't match in the pic [emoji4]

I'm sure we'll help you spend it [emoji4]

Took it for a mot it and flew through [emoji57] So i asked him to put front shocks as "advisory's "[emoji15] Cos i fancy some new front suspension bits and " maintenance " shiny bits don't count [emoji39]

Had a good grin doing rwyb at santa pod on Saturday ,nice to catch up with a few members from on here camping for japshow too but shame I missed all the rest of you on the stand Sunday I'd only ever had 2 goes at the 1/4 before and I definitely needed the practice as my best time was a 14.2 ( I didn't do the car justice) so went with the intention of try to crack the 14 second mark . 1st run I did it in 14 dead [emoji57] 2nd run i managed a 13.3[emoji4] both with 3k launches and I'm sure if I was a bit more savage with the launch / changes I'd just squeeze a sub 13 second time which would be great on the standard 21yr old/80k turbo The new parallel fuel set up, z32 maf , bigger turbo ,momo steering wheel and spec c peddle set turned up too . So quite a good weekend [emoji4] Won't be fitting any of the engine bits this side of xmas as I have to do a bit of research on compressor housings and hybrid wheels first [emoji6]

Had a few scooby shiny bits turn up today [emoji4] New turbo's a bit bigger than the current tdo5 16g

Think matt was after a decat downpipe

Early classics definitely only have the 1 cat in the downpipe and I think it's pre 92 that cars didn't have a cat in the UK but I'm unsure of the rules regarding imports and their cats . Can you not ask the "subaru specialists" to recommend a local mot place that is more familiar with scooby imports [emoji6]