savage bulldogs

Good clean classics are fetching better money than bugs or early blobs . As Jay says prices for good scoobs seem to be going up a bit, probably cos fuel prices are a bit better lately If it's not broke .....upgrade it

If your changing the turbo and getting it mapped check if your year of wrx has a pre cat in the upipe. As the sti or aftermarket up pipes don't have the pre cat in and are less restrictive

I'm a proppa novice at the 1/4 [emoji4] went to both japshow weekends and a had a go last year . Really enjoyed it ,well apart from missing 3rd on 1 run and getting a 15.2 [emoji16] It was quite a buzz [emoji41] The uk 6 speed conversion means I cross the line in 5 th are you still in 4 th ? I run red line shock proof oil from the states it seems to have good reviews If it's not broke .....upgrade it

I've only got these ecu pinouts for all classic, early foz and early leggys Speed Rev Injector Throttle Ign live Ground I need to find out where my v1sti gets it's electronic speed signal from and can't seem to find any info [emoji19] I assume it's behind the clocks As the speedo cable is old school mechanical and I think the dash is the only part of the car I haven't removed at some point or another [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Sorry just read that is was a light on the new gauges ,I thought it was the oe pressure light on the dash . It might just be that subaru put a bung in the hottest part of the engine (above cyl 3) as that's the best place to get a max reading. Most other oil temp sensors work off a sandwich plate attached to the oil filter (probably in the coolest place on the outside of the block) and it might just have been set up to compensate for it . If it's not broke .....upgrade it

On both my standard 97 UK lump and the forged lump (with a rcm oil pump) normal driving in the winter (5° outside ) my hot temps are 85° to 92°and idle @ 1.8 to 2.1 bar Bit of boost in the summer (25° outside) my hot temps are 95° to 108° (max) and idle 1.5 bar at the lowest . But I use 10w 60 millers nano drive oil in my current forged lump and 10 w 40 millers fully synthetic in the piston slappy uk engine. Of course different gauges and senders won't necessarily read the same but I'd check the levels and for leaks, as the oil light shouldn't flicker on . If it's not broke .....upgrade it

That's a good time for a 300hp newage , I only managed 13.3 in my 330hp classic . Will admit I do need the practice as I've only ever done the 1/4 mile 4 time's (and didn't want to break my daily driver lol ) I think the spec c blobeyes have lighter glass and possibly bootlids but other than removing the rear window motors I can't think of how else you'd save weight. What about anti lag or a few more bar of boost mapped in ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it

That's a hell'va big pussay you have there bud [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

I haven't got a full pinout diagram but I have got one that came with my avcr What wires are you changing bud ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Gutted that you think the engines gone but glad you're sticking with it [emoji106] Have you checked the spark plugs for oil deposits or done a compression test (to make sure it's fubar'd ) If it's a early 95 it might have a closed deck block which are good for big power (with the right internals) Cdb's are normally identified by the #### marks on the modine under the alternator it's a slippery slope and if you've read my build thread you know I'm not lying lol . Easiest way to make sure a 2ltr ,2.1 ltr or 2.5 ltr engine will fit into a v2 phase 1 scoob. Is to use v1 to v4 heads as they will bolt directly to your v2 inlet manifold ,auxiliaries and loom . I'm unsure if the 2ltr heads need machine work to make them fit a 2.5ltr due to the bigger bore pistons but they will go directly onto a 2.1 . Well once you've calculated the headgasket thickness to achieve the 8.5.1 ideal compression ratio . You'll ideally need to add a 6 speed conversion ( £1500 + fitting) or a 5 speed ppg box (£2k + fitting ) to your shopping list. As my classic 5 speed ate 3rd at 330 ish hp .The later blob or hawk 5 speeds have been known to run 400hp but it's fairly close to their limits . If you're lucky that there's not too much damage to your bores, a over bore ,a set of 0.5 mm oversized forged pistons and newage sti rods mated to a standard crank would be the cheapest 400hp build option (sub £2k ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it

I don't often use it or hoon about anyways but it's handy for the average speed cameras or when I'm in a scooby convoy on the way too a meet/show [emoji4] As my kmph to mph converter reads slightly different to my sat nav/road angel If it's not broke .....upgrade it

It's a road angel ,stants [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

At last the Avcr is in and working [emoji41] It's difficult to say exactly how much earlier it spools but a recon it hits 1.4 bar about 400 rpm sooner now [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

What year / model is it and Have you had the ecu codes read ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it

shouldn't be too bad [emoji16] I know which pin out on the ecu each of the 6 wires have to splice into . So (in theory) I should just have to strip a bit of insulation off ,solder the wire in and heatshrink some new insulation over the join Easy ..... honest [emoji55] I wouldn't say I feel fresh yet though, cos I'm still hanging a bit ...... Think I need a beer [emoji5] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

The reason the revs change is when you take the vac line off the top of the dump valve. The vac line end is open allowing unmetered and unfiltered air to be sucked into the inlet which affects the mixture /idle What is the issue or fault your trying to find? If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Guess the beer goggles missed the bit about you only having "1 code and the rest is a helpful list" Should know to steer clear of the tech advice when rat ar5ed by now lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Feeling as rough as a bears ar5e but I did manage to get the avcr and sensors in situ. And for someone who fitted a 4 in 1 gauge because I didn't like to many gauges I've certainly ended up with a few "distractions " in my field of view lol Just got this birds nest to cut n splice to get the avcr finally working But I don't trust my blurry hangover head to start hacking the loom about today [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

At least I think I've sussed how to plumb it in now [emoji4] but that big bit of paper with covered in squiggles and bubbles is the "quick start" guide when setting it up [emoji15] the school boy error of being too !Removed! to drive didn't help with the productivity this afternoon [emoji4] As I need to do a run in each gear so it can learn the differences in vacuum under different loads ,so it can then duplicate the same boost targets/curve in every gear by itself . Well once I sober up enough to decipher the "quick start " bubble code If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Started to think fitting the avcr would be a good idea today [emoji41] Had another idea to have a few early beers while doing some research on how to wire it in [emoji39] 3 hrs and 7 beers and a couple of jd's later This little lot is frying my brains and will be going back in the box until the new year [emoji23] Have a goodn fellas [emoji482] [emoji322] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

The woodruff key in the end of the crank should sit 6'0 clock with the timing mark at 12 '0 clock (as in my first pics) The Groove on the oil pump and the line on the plate behind the crank sprocket were the tdc alignment marks for the crank on my 94 ej20 Not the best pic for alignment, as I had left the crank just under tdc to avoid hitting the piston crowns with the valves while dialing the cams in but it shows the 2 marks and woodruff key at the bottom If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Unequal length Headers cause the burble as the exhaust gasses hit the upipe at different times compared to equal length Headers I'm not sure what year subaru fitted equal length Headers across the whole UK & jdm range but A friend of mine has a (04 ish) jdm sti blobeye .which comes with equal length Headers as standard and even with a 3" miltek turbo back it doesn't burble it does sound better than the standard set up but it sounds more like a straight 4 than a boxer burble If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Does sound like a earth fault as your getting a lot of codes at once if once the ecu's been reset you get the codes back up when stationery and idling or rev'ing ,try using jump leads from the negative terminal on the battery to the inlet manifold and engine block to create a good earth .Then reset the ecu ,restart and see if it's resolved any of the fault codes If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Phase 1/1.5 440's are a direct fit but they're getting on a bit and can't be resized (opened and reflowed to make them a bigger cc) Phase 2 440's will fit with "phase adapters" in place (which cost about £ 50) . Cheapest option would probably be good second hand ones off a trusted seller £40 injectors + £50 phase adapters including new O rings Or get the above, then send the second hand phase 2 injectors off to someone like "lateral performance" to get them cleaned /refurbed for about £150 or reflowed and cleaned (made into a bigger cc) for about £250 ish If you want the tdo5 to run more than 1.2 bar you'll need a later map sensor to be "mapped in" when fitting the ecu and possibly a newage coil pack conversion. As standard early classic map sensors only read up to 1.2 bar and the coil packs somtimes don't like the extra boost [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Did you allow for the crank regrind and buy "oversized " shells and check the "end float" ? did you use graphogen builders paste or just oil on the bearings when assembling ? Did you insure the engine/crank oil galleries,breather system,oil cooler ,sump ect .... were clean n clear (been through the engineers hot wash and rodded through ideally). Did you prime the oil system before initial start up by pulling the crank sensor to let it turn over but not fire ? Over doing the instant gasket can lead to bits breaking off and blocking oil galleries and ports in the crank as well. New crank /shells and plastigauge on assembly should rule out crank clearance tolerances Best of luck n keep us posted fella If it's not broke .....upgrade it