savage bulldogs

Quality Classic cat back and Whiteline pigtail front droplinks still for sale

When doing Old school road tests for balancing and tracking issues normally. ... Wheel wobble at 60 which goes away at 70 (you can drive through it ) meant balancing fault . Wheel wobble at 60 that didn't go away when you increase speed meant tracking or wheel alignment. The rear sway arm could cause the rear wheels to be out of alignment (so get it sorted as soon as you can afford it ) but it would have to be fairly bad to cause the steering wheel to wobble

Did you Get the tracking checked bud ?

Only major differences between the 2.5 sti engine and a 2.5 wrx one is the sti one has forged pistons ,more agressive cams and avecs heads. So it would need to be remapped due to the different cams and compression ratio . Although I'm unsure if the avecs engine loom would just plug into the wrx or whether it would need modification but you could just run it with the avecs unplugged . Any 2.5 or 2ltr engine will mate up fine with any 5 or 6 speed as the bell housings/ back of the blocks are the same ,I'm running a 04 plate sti Ppp 6 speed in my 94 plate 2ltr jdm sti I also built my own 2ltr forged engine (good for 500hp) it cost me just under £2k including machining costs, Mahle pistons ,b.c rods ,acl bearings ,Apr head and big end bolts ,cossie stopper heagaskets, rcm oil pump ,full kevlar belt kit and group n gasket kit ect So it can be done cheaper if your willing to have a go yourself .personally I think what you want from the car as a end result and budget is a important factor when considering a replacement or refreshed engine A refreshed Wrx 2.5 lump can be pushed to 380 hp relatively safely A second hand Sti 2.5 will see closer to 450hp

Rear windscreen wipers on all jdms as well [emoji6]

Not too Laggy then it's just a friend of mine had a massive gt30 on his 2.1 making 420hp + but he couldn't shake me running 330hp . as I hit full boost at 3.5k and pulled to 7.5 k he hit his full boost at 5.5k and lit the tyres up in 4 th gear . I'd stick with what you've got ,cos once you fit the 2.1 you'll probably need a 6 speed

!Removed! hell are they supplying the downpipe too lol Guess they're busy and don't need the work [emoji4]

Dunno how some people sleep at night [emoji35] Have you thought about a 2.5 sti engine from a reputable breakers ? Could probably pick one up delivered on a pallet for under £1k ,then get it fitted locally Obviously a pinned 2.5 rebuild would be a better option but if budget is s bit tighter a quality second hand unit could be a alternative

You have to remove and refit the tmic so if they're not too familiar with scoobs they might charge 2 hrs + both gaskets

I think 400hp ix about the limit for a 2ltr unless you add a splash of meth . When does if come on full boost ? As I'd heard the 20g was a bit Laggy on a 2ltr , if so you could try fitting a Harvey "trick" upipe and tubular headers to make the power more usable lower in the Rev range . Which would make a quicker point to point car

If you intend on leaving the sound system and audio on while the engines not running , maybe a "leasure" battery (the sort that's used for camping/caravan use) might be useful. My brv inlaw uses one to power a TV and lighting in his bivvy when he goes on 4 day fishing trips ,he just charges it before he goes and it lasts all weekend?

I used to run a 2.5 k sound system with 1 smaller amp for the 4 door speakers and this bad boy bridged and connected to a vibe space 2k 12" sub I used a "capacitor " which is a smaller battery that fits inline on the amp power cables to stop power drain . Probably wouldn't run the system on its own but it did stop the headlights dimming when the bass kicked in [emoji4]

I'm not bad with a spanner ,welder or spray gun and I have converted a tdo5 from top entry to front entry but building turbo cores is something I've not got into As you need to get the cores rebalanced with some expensive machinery on reassembly so I've just looked at "off the shelf " stock location units when considering upgrades for mine in the future Sorry I can't be of much help myself but I did find some info on here that might be of use to you http://www.scoobytuner.com/tuning/?tuningID=43 Let us know how you get on as I've got a new ported p18 housing and might consider buying a suitable pre balanced core and compressor housing to go with it . As I'd like to try something different with my project if possible

I don't know a great deal about the vf series spec and to be honest didn't know that there was any difference between the 22 &23 other than one of them uses a bigger hotside so spools slightly slower but holds boost a bit better higher in the Rev range . Only thing i can think of is to Maybe try cross referencing the part numbers online between either a billet wheel or oe spec replacement core for both turbos . As I'm not sure if the housing would need to be a different profile/dia internally for the different number of blades but if the same "upgrade" wheel/core fits both turbos there's a good chance you can mix n match

Has your boost solinoid had a clean since you've owned it and How much fuel was in the tank at the time ? Cos I had 1/4 of a tank and hit boost cut twice on the same bit of road near me .It's when going up hill, hard right then 3/4 throttle in 2nd . It was fine shortly afterwards in a straight line with nothing logged on the ecu . I just put it down to fuel slosh in the tank as it only does it on that stretch of road with a 1/4 of a tank For the time being i just don't "give it full beans" with low fuel exiting a right hander and it seems like a good excuse to put "fit a swirl pot" to my never ending list [emoji5]

Hi n welcome to the fold [emoji106] one of the foz fellas might be able to recommend some options to suit your needs/budget otherwise Alyn @ Asperformance is worth a call (he's helpful over the phone) If you know what you need and just want to buy online have a look at the godspeed or aztec performance websites as well [emoji6]

I've not researched or had any experience with the 3 cats in newage as I've only ever owned early classics myself . Early classics only have 1 cat in the downpipe and on my v3 uk I switched that for a cobra sports cat which passed emissions without a remap once hot . I currently run a decat downpipe but my mapper has spent a good 24hrs+ mapping my current apexi ecu over the past 3yrs when I've had mods mapped in . He constantly tweeks the whole map (off boost and different throttle position's ) and doesn't just aim for pub power so it will just pass the emissions on idle anyways. If you have a mapper in mind that your going to use maybe just shoot him a email or phone call to see what he suggests you fit prior to mapping for your target power and budget bud

Pending on what ecu or software you use some offer duel maps so you could always ask the mapper to make one of the maps low boost and emission friendly [emoji6]

Never tried the "blue pills" before but I heard if they get stuck in your throat when you swallow them they give you a stiff neck [emoji4] And if you get them in your eye they make you look hard [emoji15] Personally I don't think there's any drug that would make me think a Fiat 500 was beefy enough for me to want one [emoji23]

Can't help with the wiring tbh as my alarm has the turbo timer function built in . If it was fitted to a classic might be worth giving them a call to see if the harness is still in the car they removed the timer from ?

I ran a 5 speed pink box clutch in my uk turbo ,great bit of kit with oe pedal feel , the only issue I had running 350hp/320 flbs was I blew my classic 5 speed to bits [emoji23] my brv ran the 5 speed pink box in his 6 speed box @ 347 hp for 2 yrs without any problems [emoji6]

The fronts will definitely just bolt in and your right about the door cards not fitting but I'm unsure about the rears . Any jdm saloon front seats, rear bench and door cards from V1 92 to v3 97 (full preface interior ) will be a straight swap. 98 to 00 jdm front and rear seats will fit but I'm unsure about the door cards. UK classic rear benches split so I'm not sure if they'll fit a jdm without modifications but the front seats are a straight swap. I've retained the original 94 sti aclantra trimmed door cards fitted some hatch sti front seats and ra jdm rear bench (happy medium between door cards and front seats) . Newage /hatch front seats will make you sit a bit higher than classic ones and they're not as "buckety" I had to make some brackets to fix the inner rear mounting points for the hatch sti seats but bug /blob/hawk fronts bolt straight in Have you thought about a full v3/v4 sti or v limited interior?

make sure the all contact cleaner has evaporated and that the element is dry ,refit it and reset the ecu before you fire it back up . As the elements are very fragile and can break if knocked or burn out if they're wet when current passes through them

Tbh I've never had to do a self code check in my 3yrs of scooby ownership and only ever had the eml come on after a iffy remap

Have you done a ecu code check to see if it's now got any fault codes stored now the symptoms are back ?