savage bulldogs

I've never had to buy a actuator but I did look into buying a billet core and building a hybrid .I'm fairly sure most places list tdo and vf series as separate items but haven't had the need to cross reference the part numbers. Mixed reviews with the kinuwga stuff and you'll probably have to pay a bit of import tax on top . I'd probably give the vf23 23 actuator pressure a bit of a Google and try to source a second hand standard pressure actuator, just in case there's nothing wrong with the actuator and it's something else I haven't thought of

I wasn't disappointed with the scoob just wish I'd have had chance to have a couple of more blats to do the old girl justice [emoji48] I think I should have at least took my mates boys car seat out off the back let alone the tools and 60 piece socket set out of the boot, cos they were fooking everywhere when I got home [emoji23]

Yeah when I saw the drag slicks on the back of that skyline I new it was going to disappear off the line here's my first run and times 14.2 quarter crap launch: https://youtu.be/yH0jQNXO_g4 Sorry the clip is so long but I don't know how to trim my snails approach out of the vid

On the second run Scoob started to really pick up in 3rd and leave that civic behind as I passed my brv filming [emoji41] But you can hear me miss 4th just after I passed him [emoji57] Better launch: https://youtu.be/N6I_TatiFw4 First run was quicker overall but with a 1.9 second reaction time(hhhmmmm purdy lights lol ) and a miss daisy launch I let the car down [emoji4] I'll take a pic of the run times in a min

Does sound like actuators fubar you should be able to pick up a second hand one off eBay fairly cheap ,might be worth a punt

Deleting the maf can be done with that ecu but you can't be 100% sure without having a mapper check the map parameters ,especially at the moment with it not running right in the first place the straight vac line from actuator to turbo trick by passes the boost solinoid system so if you still haven't got boost faulty actuator does seem quite likely . other than alcatek maybe not supporting the "green plug self code check" I'm not sure why the solinoid only clicks a few times in diagnostic mode . I can move my actuator arm by hand but not anymore than about 5mm but i have to use a fair amount of force (doesn't move easily) Can you move the waste gate arm easily by hand ?

A few on my local forum might be interested in going on a rwyb day so I'll ask the chairman and see if we can drum up some interest . I understand that most people don't like the idea of launching their pride n joy off the line but it's not all about beating other people's times just having a grin and improving on your own as well

If it's fitted with a esl daughter board or simtek / alcertek software these ecus can be remapped to run mafles , so unplugging it might not make a difference if the maf has been "mapped out" . Unless there's a few faults giving varied symptoms I'm a bit stumped as I can't think of one problem that would give you lumpy idle but rev up fine with no boost that wouldn't give you a code on the ecu Check over all the vac lines for splits and leaks if certain ones look suspect or hard to get to you can spray a little brake cleaner around them when the engines running and the idle will rise if the cleaner gets sucked in if there's a leak . Do be careful as brake cleaner is flammable and if you spray to much at once or spray it near exhaust/headers it might ignite Try checking the spark plugs as these are normally a good indication as to how a car is running .If they're in good nick(no cracks in the porcelain ect) give them a clean up and gap them to 0.7 As if one cylinder isn't firing right you'll get lumpy idle ,you can normally rev up without spluttering and possibly no boost but it would sound like it's "missing"

If the cars been mapped with a boost controller in situ the mapper might have mapped out some of the functions of the oe boost controller but even then I would have thought when the plugs are together it would have still clicked a lot while performing the diagnostic tests (unless the diagnosis mode doesn't work with certain types of mappable ecu as I know it doesn't on my apexi fc ecu ) Has your "spare part " scoob got a 2 port solinoid if so maybe try switching solinoids to see if that one clicks more when the green plugs are together.

Oh gambit sorry mate I didn't have a clue what I was doing with your go pro [emoji55] Hopefully you ended up with some pics of the pit guys eating their lunch rather than my savage exhaust and sailors vocabulary while searching for 4th

Great day out so much so that I'd get up at 515 on a Sunday to do it again [emoji4] Sorry I didn't get the time to catch up with you all and put more faces to names but what with being stuck in the fire up line for 1.5 hrs , having a look at some of the nice rice and trying to keep the fooking flies off my lime green t shirt the day seemed to "fly" by [emoji23] Did 2 runs and I'm happy with the car ,just me that needs the practice to achieve a better personal best time . I'd recommend anyone to have a go as it's nice to be able to give it full beans rather than just a blast to the speed limit when the road is clear a 14.2 @ 105 mph on my first ever run "bogged down" a bit (crap launch lol) 2nd run went much better (at the start) almost a second quicker over the first 1/8 but disaster struck and sombody stole 4th gear (3x) eventually I found 6th instead and i costed over the line at 15. 2 @ 86mph [emoji53] but still somehow managed to beat the civic type r next to me [emoji4]

I haven't got one for sale maybe try a local breakers or get some ported ones from Asperformance. All v1 (93) to v6 (00) classic standard exhaust manifolds are the same . Only real difference is 93 to early 96 have the lambda sensor pre upipe (in the headers) and all later models run from a lambda in the downpipe with a factory bung supplied in the hole the early lambda sensor goes . If you're reverting back to oe headers try to find a set with good heatsheilds on or wrap them before fitting

I've been warned by a couple of mates that the "show" rwyb days have mental queues and if your not careful you'll miss the actual "show" part of the day. If the queues are bad I won't bother with the quarter tomorrow and just go on a rwyb day instead .

Took 3 hrs to wash ,polish and get a coat of poor boys sealant on my front wheels [emoji15] Probably spent more time chasing the bull dog around the garden as it kept licking the rims and running off with my wax soaked micro fibre cloths . Burnt my upper arms in the sun and knackered from chasing the mutt so the rear wheels just got a rinse (mission aborted) [emoji5] Beer in the shade time now [emoji41]

I'll have a couple of clean 1 ltr bottles with me you can use to ferry water from the toilets Cos I've run out of "bug shifter" so I 'm taking 2 ltrs of tap water to rinse the dead flies off the front of the scoob I'll collect during the 2 hr drive up there .

Just thought I'd bump this in case anybody wants me to bring any bits with me tomorrow

Nice one Phil [emoji106] And where did you get those Uber sticky tyres in your avatar [emoji39]

Sorry to hear that bud ,hope it's nothing to serious and things calm down soon . I was going to aim to get there for 8 but seeing as it's a 2 hr drive and a Sunday I think we'll probably be leaving here at 630 .As for who's coming with me ,my brv is riding shotgun and a couple of mates are coming a bit later on

you could get a ticket on the gate your just have to leave your scoob off the stand ,unless someone can smuggle you a spare pass out when you arrive

If the spare scoob is a late 96 to early 98 (v3 or v4) they're very similar with probably only a difference in the size of the restrictor pill . Only problem is IF it's been mapped with the current vac line set up as it is changing it back to standard might not work unless you fit a standard v3 sti ecu . You can't fit a standard uk or wrx ecu as the turbo / injector size is different from the sti's . So by passing the posibily faulty boost controller with a new vac line might be the best thing to try first

Or sell it to me matt I'll fit it to mine [emoji4]

Did you try removing the vac line with the pink t piece in ,blocking the t piece either end and then running a new vac line between turbo and actuator? Also check all other vac lines to make sure they're not perished or split as a leak in the vac line system could cause ropey/ high idle and lack of boost white bit is normally in the standard vac line set up anyways bud but if you've got vac lines going into the car try to follow them in case it used to be attached to something (boost gauge) that's no longer there leaving a open airway into the inlet manifold (air/vacuum leak)

Maybe just get enough to top up from Halfords and order decent oil and a filter from opie for the next service

If you've got 4 nuts gambit that might explain why your a bit of a sexual deviant [emoji39] Far to much testosterone [emoji4] I've just finished leathering the car off [emoji41] disappeared into the man cave to get the resin polish ..... And now it's raining [emoji35]

Oil grades are a bit of a can of worms as loads of people have different opinions. I'd stick with what you normally use if it's not noisy when cold (to thin) or warms up to quickly (to thick causing excessive friction) Plus I'm far from a expert in oil advice and can only comment on my own experiences with my classics Imo Tim @ opie oils will give you a much better informed choice of which oil suits your car and needs