savage bulldogs

Depends on how much you want to spend really few options Later second hand box £400 Recon box £800 a six speed conversion £1400 Straight cut 5 gears set (dog box) £2k + As for future proofing I think there's 5 speed strengthening plates which bolt on the outside of the gearbox and a decent oil like red line shock proof

Hi n welcome, there's quite a few legacy owners on here who I'm sure will point you in the right direction with any questions

Hi n welcome, nice looking leggy [emoji106] There's a few threads on here regarding importing have a search for them they might answer a few of your questions[emoji6]

Might be able to make this but I'd like to have another pop at the 1/4 so probably just for the Saturday . Either way I won't be camping or wearing a lime green t shirt again lol

On classic imprezas they only have the camber bolts in the front as standard (so the rear is totally unadjustable) I fitted Elbaich rear camber bolts when I fitted the rear shocks a couple of months ago, not because I wanted a "stanced" vdub look as I want it to actually go around corners and cope with our fubar'd ,potholed roads .It was just to give the rear some sort of adjustment when I eventually get round to having a 4 wheel alignment done . Yours does seem like it's quite a way out so I'd probably agree that somethings a bit worn but would have thought if it's a lateral link or bush it would have been picked up on the mot . Maybe just get some Elbaich rear camber bolts and ask them to fit them prior to trying to align it again

Tbh I've never tried to manually hold the waste gate shut but logic tells me that if it won't make boost with it shut and there's nothing connected to tell the turbo to do anything but flow air the fault should be after the turbo The vacuum system to and from the boost solinoid are not in use when you ran a straight vac line from actuator to turbo and the fault was still there .so I don't think it's those . Now you've held the waste gate shut without using the actuator it doesn't sound like the actuator either. I'm sort of running out of ideas to try and without physically seeing it's never easy . My last few straws would be Faulty turbo not making boost cos it's fubar Air leak after the turbo letting the boosted air escape before it enters the engine This could caused by.... a vac line missing /split that's runs from the inlet manifold venting air Y pipe under the tmic split /leaking Inlet manifold gaskets leaking under pressure. Any luck with the ecu codes ?

They changed from center thrust at v5 (my 98) onwards to rear thrust on the imprezas and the earlier blocks can be converted to take the later thrust crank (£180 ish ) If you're aiming for a 2.1 stroker build you'll need the 2.5 nitrated crank and slightly shorter (2mm) rods or pistons as the extra throw on the 2.5 crank(that increases the cc to 2.1) will poke the pistons too far out of the block . I'm running a standard early 2ltr crank as I've been told they're good for 500 hp + anyways. But you could fit the later nitrated 2ltr thrust crank into a modified early block. If you're spending a bit on internals I personally would spend that little bit extra and use at least a scd (or get the block pinned ) to protect your investment

As long as your sure the arm isn't stuck out and holding it open ,on the tdo series the actuator arm is only held onto the waste gate lever by a single "C" clip anyways

Hi n welcome to soc Any mods on the scoob ? Feel free to pop a few pics up and jump in on any of threads on here [emoji106]

Does the noise get louder when cornering? Ie when the bearings are under load If not I'd imagine a change of tyres could bring the noise levels down a bit. Or Just fit a 3" decat and da Dar the road noise is gone [emoji39]

If the actuator had no pressure on the arm to hold it shut the exhaust gasses would probably blow it open

At least you'll have a fair bit of experience whipping the motor in n out of a legacy by the time your done Sam [emoji6] Are you going to clean up the heads off the old motor and fit those to the sti short block ?

Towards the actuator would be closed (actuator arm pushes to open the waste gate ) Someone's selling a tdo4 on here in the for sale section with pics of the hot side which shows the waste gate from inside so you can see the "flap" and arm Just don't rev it to much or drive it as I wouldn't want you to damage anything by having the waste gate shut without any control over how much boost the turbo's producing [emoji6]

It might have been the excessive heat caused by not having water flowing around the block when you had a fubar water pump . Are you sure it's not just a bit of piston slap ? Does it get louder when the revs increase? Does it go away when warm ?

The actuator controls the wast gate which controls the amount of exhaust gasses allowed to pass through the turbo . Otherwise the turbo would keep spinning and creating boost until it went bang . You could try disconnecting the actuator arm from the waste gate lever ,check it's moving freely and cable tie the waste gate shut. It's just to see if it creates any boost at all ,don't drive it to far or run it too long as it's only a crude way of seeing if the actuators fubar before you buy one [emoji6]

Try dropping a mapper a email to see if the factory self code check works with a alcertek ecu, as I said before the oe ecu code check might not work with your aftermarket ecu and that might be why it's not running a full diagnostic check (only clicking a few times) although a faulty actuator does seem to cover your symptoms, returning the boost vacuum system or anything else back to standard might not work if the current aftermarket ecus map has been set up with the "as you bought it " pipework . If you do want to try to get it back to standard you might want to fit a standard ecu , if the car hasn't got many mods as this will have a standard map too . As stants said it could possibly even be something as simple as a low boost setting cos you can have loads of added features. .... twin mafles maps ,anti lag, launch control or even maps for different grades of fuel (95 Ron or meth mix) . So I'd suggest to preferably get a mapper to check the codes on the ecu if not fit a standard ecu (if the cars not heavily modded) and second hand actuator with the v3 sti oe vacuum line set up .

On turbo models Google your gearbox ty#### number to find the ratio and find a second hand diff of the same ratio . The only reason that you'd need to change the rear drive shafts on a turbo model would be if you don't use the same type . As well as the differences in ratios there's 2 types of diff r160 (thinner drive shafts and different hubs/smaller discs) R180 (thicker drive shafts ,stronger hubs and bigger hand brake shoes/ discs) The above differences are on turbo versions I'm afraid I'm not sure if there's another different type of diff used on the non turbo versions as well. So definitely give the gearbox ty### number on the white sticker on the bell housing a Google to be sure

Some lovely looking motors in those pics crimson [emoji41] Cheers stants for putting that up ,I'll try a bit harder next time and hopefully do the old girl justice as I'm sure it's got at least low 13's in her (if driven right lol)

Not done much to the v1 lately apart from cleaning it but I have been stripping the v3 uk a bit so it's looking rather sad and sorry for itself now . Hopefully it will be going to the scrappies this weekend [emoji53]

What grade /type fuel do you put in it? Has it got a boost gauge if so what does it read ? As it could be fuel cut if it's over boosting. Did you change the fuel filter and how old is your fuel pump ? Maybe get the fuel pressure checked in case the fuel regulator or pump is getting tired . Could always get it on a dyno for £40 and the operator might find the fault or at least narrow it down (spark ,fuel ect)

Looks great mate and you certainly will be able to find it in easier in a car park

Result Sam ........ I think lol

My oil temps/pressure and knock levels were fine but when I popped the bonnet in the que I think we could have cooked a few of boot's sausages on my fmic core to inlet pipework [emoji4]

Lovely looking base car and Nice to see the shiny bits piling up[emoji41] Any idea when they'll start building the short block up ?

After waiting so long stationery with the engine running in the sun I'll definitely be looking into lagging the reversed inlet pipework and maybe some inlet manifold thermal spacers .