savage bulldogs

At least you'll have a fair bit of experience whipping the motor in n out of a legacy by the time your done Sam [emoji6] Are you going to clean up the heads off the old motor and fit those to the sti short block ?

Towards the actuator would be closed (actuator arm pushes to open the waste gate ) Someone's selling a tdo4 on here in the for sale section with pics of the hot side which shows the waste gate from inside so you can see the "flap" and arm Just don't rev it to much or drive it as I wouldn't want you to damage anything by having the waste gate shut without any control over how much boost the turbo's producing [emoji6]

It might have been the excessive heat caused by not having water flowing around the block when you had a fubar water pump . Are you sure it's not just a bit of piston slap ? Does it get louder when the revs increase? Does it go away when warm ?

The actuator controls the wast gate which controls the amount of exhaust gasses allowed to pass through the turbo . Otherwise the turbo would keep spinning and creating boost until it went bang . You could try disconnecting the actuator arm from the waste gate lever ,check it's moving freely and cable tie the waste gate shut. It's just to see if it creates any boost at all ,don't drive it to far or run it too long as it's only a crude way of seeing if the actuators fubar before you buy one [emoji6]

Try dropping a mapper a email to see if the factory self code check works with a alcertek ecu, as I said before the oe ecu code check might not work with your aftermarket ecu and that might be why it's not running a full diagnostic check (only clicking a few times) although a faulty actuator does seem to cover your symptoms, returning the boost vacuum system or anything else back to standard might not work if the current aftermarket ecus map has been set up with the "as you bought it " pipework . If you do want to try to get it back to standard you might want to fit a standard ecu , if the car hasn't got many mods as this will have a standard map too . As stants said it could possibly even be something as simple as a low boost setting cos you can have loads of added features. .... twin mafles maps ,anti lag, launch control or even maps for different grades of fuel (95 Ron or meth mix) . So I'd suggest to preferably get a mapper to check the codes on the ecu if not fit a standard ecu (if the cars not heavily modded) and second hand actuator with the v3 sti oe vacuum line set up .

On turbo models Google your gearbox ty#### number to find the ratio and find a second hand diff of the same ratio . The only reason that you'd need to change the rear drive shafts on a turbo model would be if you don't use the same type . As well as the differences in ratios there's 2 types of diff r160 (thinner drive shafts and different hubs/smaller discs) R180 (thicker drive shafts ,stronger hubs and bigger hand brake shoes/ discs) The above differences are on turbo versions I'm afraid I'm not sure if there's another different type of diff used on the non turbo versions as well. So definitely give the gearbox ty### number on the white sticker on the bell housing a Google to be sure

Some lovely looking motors in those pics crimson [emoji41] Cheers stants for putting that up ,I'll try a bit harder next time and hopefully do the old girl justice as I'm sure it's got at least low 13's in her (if driven right lol)

Not done much to the v1 lately apart from cleaning it but I have been stripping the v3 uk a bit so it's looking rather sad and sorry for itself now . Hopefully it will be going to the scrappies this weekend [emoji53]

What grade /type fuel do you put in it? Has it got a boost gauge if so what does it read ? As it could be fuel cut if it's over boosting. Did you change the fuel filter and how old is your fuel pump ? Maybe get the fuel pressure checked in case the fuel regulator or pump is getting tired . Could always get it on a dyno for £40 and the operator might find the fault or at least narrow it down (spark ,fuel ect)

Looks great mate and you certainly will be able to find it in easier in a car park

Result Sam ........ I think lol

My oil temps/pressure and knock levels were fine but when I popped the bonnet in the que I think we could have cooked a few of boot's sausages on my fmic core to inlet pipework [emoji4]

Lovely looking base car and Nice to see the shiny bits piling up[emoji41] Any idea when they'll start building the short block up ?

After waiting so long stationery with the engine running in the sun I'll definitely be looking into lagging the reversed inlet pipework and maybe some inlet manifold thermal spacers .

I've never had to buy a actuator but I did look into buying a billet core and building a hybrid .I'm fairly sure most places list tdo and vf series as separate items but haven't had the need to cross reference the part numbers. Mixed reviews with the kinuwga stuff and you'll probably have to pay a bit of import tax on top . I'd probably give the vf23 23 actuator pressure a bit of a Google and try to source a second hand standard pressure actuator, just in case there's nothing wrong with the actuator and it's something else I haven't thought of

I wasn't disappointed with the scoob just wish I'd have had chance to have a couple of more blats to do the old girl justice [emoji48] I think I should have at least took my mates boys car seat out off the back let alone the tools and 60 piece socket set out of the boot, cos they were fooking everywhere when I got home [emoji23]

Yeah when I saw the drag slicks on the back of that skyline I new it was going to disappear off the line here's my first run and times 14.2 quarter crap launch: https://youtu.be/yH0jQNXO_g4 Sorry the clip is so long but I don't know how to trim my snails approach out of the vid

On the second run Scoob started to really pick up in 3rd and leave that civic behind as I passed my brv filming [emoji41] But you can hear me miss 4th just after I passed him [emoji57] Better launch: https://youtu.be/N6I_TatiFw4 First run was quicker overall but with a 1.9 second reaction time(hhhmmmm purdy lights lol ) and a miss daisy launch I let the car down [emoji4] I'll take a pic of the run times in a min

Does sound like actuators fubar you should be able to pick up a second hand one off eBay fairly cheap ,might be worth a punt

Deleting the maf can be done with that ecu but you can't be 100% sure without having a mapper check the map parameters ,especially at the moment with it not running right in the first place the straight vac line from actuator to turbo trick by passes the boost solinoid system so if you still haven't got boost faulty actuator does seem quite likely . other than alcatek maybe not supporting the "green plug self code check" I'm not sure why the solinoid only clicks a few times in diagnostic mode . I can move my actuator arm by hand but not anymore than about 5mm but i have to use a fair amount of force (doesn't move easily) Can you move the waste gate arm easily by hand ?

A few on my local forum might be interested in going on a rwyb day so I'll ask the chairman and see if we can drum up some interest . I understand that most people don't like the idea of launching their pride n joy off the line but it's not all about beating other people's times just having a grin and improving on your own as well

If it's fitted with a esl daughter board or simtek / alcertek software these ecus can be remapped to run mafles , so unplugging it might not make a difference if the maf has been "mapped out" . Unless there's a few faults giving varied symptoms I'm a bit stumped as I can't think of one problem that would give you lumpy idle but rev up fine with no boost that wouldn't give you a code on the ecu Check over all the vac lines for splits and leaks if certain ones look suspect or hard to get to you can spray a little brake cleaner around them when the engines running and the idle will rise if the cleaner gets sucked in if there's a leak . Do be careful as brake cleaner is flammable and if you spray to much at once or spray it near exhaust/headers it might ignite Try checking the spark plugs as these are normally a good indication as to how a car is running .If they're in good nick(no cracks in the porcelain ect) give them a clean up and gap them to 0.7 As if one cylinder isn't firing right you'll get lumpy idle ,you can normally rev up without spluttering and possibly no boost but it would sound like it's "missing"

If the cars been mapped with a boost controller in situ the mapper might have mapped out some of the functions of the oe boost controller but even then I would have thought when the plugs are together it would have still clicked a lot while performing the diagnostic tests (unless the diagnosis mode doesn't work with certain types of mappable ecu as I know it doesn't on my apexi fc ecu ) Has your "spare part " scoob got a 2 port solinoid if so maybe try switching solinoids to see if that one clicks more when the green plugs are together.

Oh gambit sorry mate I didn't have a clue what I was doing with your go pro [emoji55] Hopefully you ended up with some pics of the pit guys eating their lunch rather than my savage exhaust and sailors vocabulary while searching for 4th

Great day out so much so that I'd get up at 515 on a Sunday to do it again [emoji4] Sorry I didn't get the time to catch up with you all and put more faces to names but what with being stuck in the fire up line for 1.5 hrs , having a look at some of the nice rice and trying to keep the fooking flies off my lime green t shirt the day seemed to "fly" by [emoji23] Did 2 runs and I'm happy with the car ,just me that needs the practice to achieve a better personal best time . I'd recommend anyone to have a go as it's nice to be able to give it full beans rather than just a blast to the speed limit when the road is clear a 14.2 @ 105 mph on my first ever run "bogged down" a bit (crap launch lol) 2nd run went much better (at the start) almost a second quicker over the first 1/8 but disaster struck and sombody stole 4th gear (3x) eventually I found 6th instead and i costed over the line at 15. 2 @ 86mph [emoji53] but still somehow managed to beat the civic type r next to me [emoji4]