savage bulldogs

Sandwich plates do give you a accurate reading of the oil temp but it's after the oils been through the oil cooler ,as long as you bear that in mind when comparing running temps , it will work and give a trouble free reading if fitted correctly bud Subaru fit a bung over cylinder number 3 as the oil is at its hottest there. number 3 gets the most heat soak positioned at the back under the turbo and is at the end of the "series type" fuel flow (last in the line) so runs lean if the fuel pressure drops and the reason people do a parallel fuel rail mod when chasing ponies

Fitting a fmic is a bit of a pita On my classic I had to remove Grill Headlights Bumper Wheel arch liners Cut the bodywork to fit the turbo to core pipework and trim some metal from under the headlights Dremmel the lower grill out of the bumper and trim some of the back of the bumper . It's best done just before a remap and driven off boost until the fmic has been mapped in

Couple of places worth a try for cossie uprated stopper gaskets that might work out cheaper than rcm but similar quality A.s performance (give Alyn a ring cos his website a bit sheet) Advanced automotive Lateral performance All seem to know their stuff and have been helpful to me in the past

Haven't washed the scoob for a fortnight so i chucked a overdue sponge at it yesterday and noticed some marks on the newly refurbished rims [emoji53] Turns out the bloke I bought the brembos off had bolted the braided lines to a uneven face (part painted) [emoji35] When i got them I saw the washers and banjo bolts were new with tape over the "car" end so i just checked the torque settings on the banjo bolts, cleaned, greased and then fitted them . I've sorted the leak this evening by filing the face flat and fitting new washers, just a bit miffed to say the least [emoji36] It's only been weaping a tiny bit but still managed to eat the surface of paint on the inside of the drivers side wheel and flick some up the side of the car, which I've clayed and t cut but it's still left brown spots (look a bit like tar) Any body know of anything else I can try on the bodywork to stop it eating the paintwork any more ?

Most of my near misses and most of the ones on the dash cam vids I've seen ,have been caused by people who don't indicate or seem to be completely unaware of their surroundings when changing lanes or pulling out of junctions as they're either too busy looking at the speedo or driving a audi if it is all about safety they should consider putting more video cameras up to catch the irratic drivers rather than cash cow speed cameras

Probably best getting a refund as if you bought it with fsh you might as well tear the history up if they put a second hand engine or just fix ( rather than fully rebuild) the old engine Hope the one lemon doesn't put you off , best of luck

Sorry but isn't the swear filter supposed to block offensive material, cos that is one fugly subrabus Imo

I can see the car quite well on the lit driveway I saw a moving shadow and leap out of the door sharpish but nobody was there I definatly did Scare the living crap out of the neighbours cat [emoji23] Mind you it could have been worse if my so called "savage bulldog" hadn't been snoring so loud she didn't hear a thing . As I don't fancy handing the poor old dears cat back in a carrier bag if liz would have got out

My viper alarm has been going off at random times at night (2am &445am) last night [emoji35] Neighbour's must love me and my noisy scoob anyways [emoji4] add random nightime car alarm acompanied by me bursting the front door open in my pants waving a bat around [emoji33] [emoji35] thought I'd better sort it had a new keygaurd alarm/tracker/turbo timer fitted today , I should sleep better tonight but sorry neighbours The exhaust is staying[emoji111] so you'll be awake early when I do the Sunday mcd breakfast run via a few b roads [emoji12]

That looks like it was due for a change anyways stants [emoji4] my brv cooked his fluid when he went to the pod on the way home it gradually let the clutch engage even though the peddle was fully depressed . so if it was the fluid letting the clutch slip and stalling the engine (cos you had the brake on) a change of fluid fixed the problem for him so thought it was worth a try bud saying that my uk turbos clutch died 6 months after I had my first remap but it had 95k mls on it and no mention of clutch replacement in its fsh .

It's a bit of a minefield but if you can decide on a end result and stick to it your a better man than me [emoji4] Budget was a major factor for me as I only had £1k to buy the parts to refresh my engine but project creep crept in £2k later I'd bought all the internals, payed the engineer for the over bore /skim work ,full timing belt /gasket kit and arp bottom end/head bolts . It soon mounts up if you don't stick to plan A [emoji5]

Yeah when you lower a car it changes the angle of the wishbones/lateral links which in turn pushes the bottom of the wheels out or in (changing the camber) I've fitted a roll center correction kit on the front which extends the track rod arms and bottom ball joints ,with the standard front camber bolts. I'm hoping that with the adjustable arb and rear camber bolts it will give enough adjustment to correct the geometry Just debating on waiting for a anti lift kit to come up at the right price before I get it set up properly or get It done now

Stants have you checked the clutch fluid level/colour ? The clutch fluid degrades quick due to being positioned over the turbo and sometimes gets forgot at service intervals ,so a fluid refresh can help a bit if the clutch fluid looks discoloured

Glad you mentioned something stants[emoji106] As I've only ever worked on 93 to 97, so I'm not 100% sure that newage (or even later classics) don't have rear camber bolts as standard as well tbh

Depends on how much you want to spend really few options Later second hand box £400 Recon box £800 a six speed conversion £1400 Straight cut 5 gears set (dog box) £2k + As for future proofing I think there's 5 speed strengthening plates which bolt on the outside of the gearbox and a decent oil like red line shock proof

Hi n welcome, there's quite a few legacy owners on here who I'm sure will point you in the right direction with any questions

Hi n welcome, nice looking leggy [emoji106] There's a few threads on here regarding importing have a search for them they might answer a few of your questions[emoji6]

Might be able to make this but I'd like to have another pop at the 1/4 so probably just for the Saturday . Either way I won't be camping or wearing a lime green t shirt again lol

On classic imprezas they only have the camber bolts in the front as standard (so the rear is totally unadjustable) I fitted Elbaich rear camber bolts when I fitted the rear shocks a couple of months ago, not because I wanted a "stanced" vdub look as I want it to actually go around corners and cope with our fubar'd ,potholed roads .It was just to give the rear some sort of adjustment when I eventually get round to having a 4 wheel alignment done . Yours does seem like it's quite a way out so I'd probably agree that somethings a bit worn but would have thought if it's a lateral link or bush it would have been picked up on the mot . Maybe just get some Elbaich rear camber bolts and ask them to fit them prior to trying to align it again

Tbh I've never tried to manually hold the waste gate shut but logic tells me that if it won't make boost with it shut and there's nothing connected to tell the turbo to do anything but flow air the fault should be after the turbo The vacuum system to and from the boost solinoid are not in use when you ran a straight vac line from actuator to turbo and the fault was still there .so I don't think it's those . Now you've held the waste gate shut without using the actuator it doesn't sound like the actuator either. I'm sort of running out of ideas to try and without physically seeing it's never easy . My last few straws would be Faulty turbo not making boost cos it's fubar Air leak after the turbo letting the boosted air escape before it enters the engine This could caused by.... a vac line missing /split that's runs from the inlet manifold venting air Y pipe under the tmic split /leaking Inlet manifold gaskets leaking under pressure. Any luck with the ecu codes ?

They changed from center thrust at v5 (my 98) onwards to rear thrust on the imprezas and the earlier blocks can be converted to take the later thrust crank (£180 ish ) If you're aiming for a 2.1 stroker build you'll need the 2.5 nitrated crank and slightly shorter (2mm) rods or pistons as the extra throw on the 2.5 crank(that increases the cc to 2.1) will poke the pistons too far out of the block . I'm running a standard early 2ltr crank as I've been told they're good for 500 hp + anyways. But you could fit the later nitrated 2ltr thrust crank into a modified early block. If you're spending a bit on internals I personally would spend that little bit extra and use at least a scd (or get the block pinned ) to protect your investment

As long as your sure the arm isn't stuck out and holding it open ,on the tdo series the actuator arm is only held onto the waste gate lever by a single "C" clip anyways

Hi n welcome to soc Any mods on the scoob ? Feel free to pop a few pics up and jump in on any of threads on here [emoji106]

Does the noise get louder when cornering? Ie when the bearings are under load If not I'd imagine a change of tyres could bring the noise levels down a bit. Or Just fit a 3" decat and da Dar the road noise is gone [emoji39]

If the actuator had no pressure on the arm to hold it shut the exhaust gasses would probably blow it open