savage bulldogs

You just need a phase 2 to phase 1/1.5 adapter kit and then fit them to your existing phase 1 rails , ithink mark lateral performance sell them for about £40 You'll be over fuelling a lot once they're fitted so i wouldn't fit them untill a day before a map tweek [emoji6]

No problem bud [emoji106] do you know what diff ratio and type is on your scoob ? And what's the year ,ratio of the 6 speed ? im not a 100% but i think if you change from r160 to r180 set ups on the rear ,the inner rear cv or drive shaft length differs due to the bigger (stronger) r180 diff ,if so you'd need .... Diff shafts Hubs (5x100 pcd) Rear discs Handbrake shoes And possibly calipers ( 2 pot rear brembos ) If the ratios are the same you'd just need 6 speed...... Box Cradle Gearknob and linkage Prop shaft The speed sensor Clutch /fly /slave Starter Front drive shafts Ect Can all be used from the 5 speed set up [emoji6]

If you can afford it go for it, cos it's definitely been my favourite mod shorter gears equal more gear changes [emoji53] But less lag when rolling [emoji4] Mine is a sti UK Box and has a longer ratio but tbh I think it's only 5th and 6th are longer and I do 700 rpm less @70mph in 6th than i did in a uk 5th The only difference of inner front drive shafts on turbo imprezas is in late 04 when they change from female to male but you can buy a stub axle conversion kit to make them fit . So you'd use your scoobs front drive shafts with the 6 speed . If your scoob has the same ratio as the box your buying you can keep the scoobs rear diff in situ and just use the 6 speeds prop,cradle,gear knob to fit the 6 speed If the 6 speed gearbox and your diff ratios don't match you'll have to find your diff type and the donor diff type (either r160 or R180 ) As i think if your diff is a R160 and the donor diff is a R180 it's shafts and your hubs, discs ,brakes,shafts won't be compatible (easier to fit a R160 diff the same ratio as the 6 speed)

Cheers for the input chaps [emoji106] Missed The ninja 1 sold [emoji53] The ninja 2 in on the bay but he hasn't answered my question about fitment and bore ,so it's not looking good either[emoji57] Don't really want to shell out much more than £150 on a 2.5 " cat back as I might have to switch back to my current 3" 5zigen system if the reduction in bore size looses spool or power on the dyno[emoji6]

In the UK it was at the top near the passenger side boot hinge (black plug with 2 pins) Tbh I preferred the v5/v6 sti rep spoiler But is was a bit rough and needed some paintwork . I want to put it back to preface before I get any paintwork done so decided to keep it looking more oe with the mid level

My uk turbo had a mid level spoiler with a brake light as standard which just plugged into a black plug that came off the loom near the boot light wiring. I think it had 2 nuts on either side holding it in place and a rubber "gasket" spacer to stop water ingress through the bolt holes . Although the v1 sti's had midlevel spoilers I think my brv had to scotch block into the live wire that feeds the rear brake lights as they're wasn't a plug to run it's aftermarket boot spoiler with a brake light that was fitted to it when he bought it now it's mine I fancied trying to get the v1 sti looking a bit more standard on the outside at least, so decided to switch spoilers . The v3 spoiler came off easy Un plugged and Un bolted [emoji41] Who ever fitted the aftermarket one to the v1 had used a ton of tiger seal to bond it to the boot lid , so I had to heat gun it off leaving residue all over the (now exposed) center of the boot lid [emoji15] Luckily the v1 and v3 are the same colour so I put the v3 boot lid and spoiler on the v1 ,changed the locks over and plugged it into the plug ,I think my brv wired in [emoji6] So maybe check for a 2 pin black plug in the boot ,cross reference the bolt hole center measurements and check to see if the aftermarket one is bonded on or whether it has gaskets you can reuse. unless you have gaskets sealing washers with the new spoiler

Was that decated and do you remember which version ninja it was matt ?

Been looking at changing my exhaust system for something a bit quieter. I've found a ninja and ninja 2 cat backs in 2.5 " for a reasonable price . I'd hoped the decrease in bore might quieten the old girl down a bit Anybody else got a full decated 2.5" ninja exhaust on or heard one ?

V3 shell has gone to the scrappies in the sky ,end of a era [emoji53] Spent a few hrs last night looking at replacement cat backs that don't wake the dead just got told off by the Mrs this morning for taking nearly a hour to return from getting the mc'ds breakfast as it's only 5 mins away and I went via a few b roads on the way there [emoji4]

Save your money for a newage sti bottom end [emoji6]

I have the oil pressure sender in the block under the alternator and temp in the cylinder number 3 bung . I used this link to get a idea of what to do http://www.scoobycity.co.uk/forums/forum/technical/technical-help/38315-how-to-fit-your-oil-temperature-and-oil-pressure-senders-when-installing-gauges

Sandwich plates do give you a accurate reading of the oil temp but it's after the oils been through the oil cooler ,as long as you bear that in mind when comparing running temps , it will work and give a trouble free reading if fitted correctly bud Subaru fit a bung over cylinder number 3 as the oil is at its hottest there. number 3 gets the most heat soak positioned at the back under the turbo and is at the end of the "series type" fuel flow (last in the line) so runs lean if the fuel pressure drops and the reason people do a parallel fuel rail mod when chasing ponies

Fitting a fmic is a bit of a pita On my classic I had to remove Grill Headlights Bumper Wheel arch liners Cut the bodywork to fit the turbo to core pipework and trim some metal from under the headlights Dremmel the lower grill out of the bumper and trim some of the back of the bumper . It's best done just before a remap and driven off boost until the fmic has been mapped in

Couple of places worth a try for cossie uprated stopper gaskets that might work out cheaper than rcm but similar quality A.s performance (give Alyn a ring cos his website a bit sheet) Advanced automotive Lateral performance All seem to know their stuff and have been helpful to me in the past

Haven't washed the scoob for a fortnight so i chucked a overdue sponge at it yesterday and noticed some marks on the newly refurbished rims [emoji53] Turns out the bloke I bought the brembos off had bolted the braided lines to a uneven face (part painted) [emoji35] When i got them I saw the washers and banjo bolts were new with tape over the "car" end so i just checked the torque settings on the banjo bolts, cleaned, greased and then fitted them . I've sorted the leak this evening by filing the face flat and fitting new washers, just a bit miffed to say the least [emoji36] It's only been weaping a tiny bit but still managed to eat the surface of paint on the inside of the drivers side wheel and flick some up the side of the car, which I've clayed and t cut but it's still left brown spots (look a bit like tar) Any body know of anything else I can try on the bodywork to stop it eating the paintwork any more ?

Most of my near misses and most of the ones on the dash cam vids I've seen ,have been caused by people who don't indicate or seem to be completely unaware of their surroundings when changing lanes or pulling out of junctions as they're either too busy looking at the speedo or driving a audi if it is all about safety they should consider putting more video cameras up to catch the irratic drivers rather than cash cow speed cameras

Probably best getting a refund as if you bought it with fsh you might as well tear the history up if they put a second hand engine or just fix ( rather than fully rebuild) the old engine Hope the one lemon doesn't put you off , best of luck

Sorry but isn't the swear filter supposed to block offensive material, cos that is one fugly subrabus Imo

I can see the car quite well on the lit driveway I saw a moving shadow and leap out of the door sharpish but nobody was there I definatly did Scare the living crap out of the neighbours cat [emoji23] Mind you it could have been worse if my so called "savage bulldog" hadn't been snoring so loud she didn't hear a thing . As I don't fancy handing the poor old dears cat back in a carrier bag if liz would have got out

My viper alarm has been going off at random times at night (2am &445am) last night [emoji35] Neighbour's must love me and my noisy scoob anyways [emoji4] add random nightime car alarm acompanied by me bursting the front door open in my pants waving a bat around [emoji33] [emoji35] thought I'd better sort it had a new keygaurd alarm/tracker/turbo timer fitted today , I should sleep better tonight but sorry neighbours The exhaust is staying[emoji111] so you'll be awake early when I do the Sunday mcd breakfast run via a few b roads [emoji12]

That looks like it was due for a change anyways stants [emoji4] my brv cooked his fluid when he went to the pod on the way home it gradually let the clutch engage even though the peddle was fully depressed . so if it was the fluid letting the clutch slip and stalling the engine (cos you had the brake on) a change of fluid fixed the problem for him so thought it was worth a try bud saying that my uk turbos clutch died 6 months after I had my first remap but it had 95k mls on it and no mention of clutch replacement in its fsh .

It's a bit of a minefield but if you can decide on a end result and stick to it your a better man than me [emoji4] Budget was a major factor for me as I only had £1k to buy the parts to refresh my engine but project creep crept in £2k later I'd bought all the internals, payed the engineer for the over bore /skim work ,full timing belt /gasket kit and arp bottom end/head bolts . It soon mounts up if you don't stick to plan A [emoji5]

Yeah when you lower a car it changes the angle of the wishbones/lateral links which in turn pushes the bottom of the wheels out or in (changing the camber) I've fitted a roll center correction kit on the front which extends the track rod arms and bottom ball joints ,with the standard front camber bolts. I'm hoping that with the adjustable arb and rear camber bolts it will give enough adjustment to correct the geometry Just debating on waiting for a anti lift kit to come up at the right price before I get it set up properly or get It done now

Stants have you checked the clutch fluid level/colour ? The clutch fluid degrades quick due to being positioned over the turbo and sometimes gets forgot at service intervals ,so a fluid refresh can help a bit if the clutch fluid looks discoloured

Glad you mentioned something stants[emoji106] As I've only ever worked on 93 to 97, so I'm not 100% sure that newage (or even later classics) don't have rear camber bolts as standard as well tbh