savage bulldogs

First number in oil grades is for flow The lower the number the thinner the oil is (thinner oil flows quicker) The second number is to grade the thickness at 100° Higher the number the thicker the oil is when up to 100° running temp Think most recommend 5 w 30 for newage or 10w 40 if it's a bit noisy/done a few miles 10w 40 for classics or 10w 50 if it's got a bit piston slap or been to the moon and back I used to run millers cfs 10w 40 in my standard ish uk turbo and then upped it to 10w 50 as the piston slap got worse after my remap . I currently run millers nano drive 10 w 60 but only because the race spec pistons are noisy as fook until up to temp .

Gambit do you need the stud to put on the scoob your bringing Sunday ? If not I can bring a couple of studs off the UK shell to japshow bud

Lovely clean looking import [emoji106] shame you missed the cut off point for the stand on here ,hope you get a extra stand pass sorted for japshow Sunday

I haven't owned any other turbos than tdo series or garret but I think the v3 sti came with a vf23 turbo (320 hp+) which will have ihi on it as well (maybe check on Google images) Plugging hoses you undo while test running the engine is Just a precaution as when you run a new vacumm line directly between the turbo and actuator the boost solinoid /vac line system is disconnected but it will suck crap into the system as the ecu will still be operating it The pinkish block in the middle of the black small dia vacuum lines (as stants said) looked like it was for a boost controller but if it's been mapped they're not normally used cos the mapper sets the boost targets during the remap. Most people dont like to up the boost without adjusting the fueling scale as if it runs lean it will eat itself . Hence why I asked if you were sure it had a mappable esl daughter board or simtek / alcertek hard ware inside the factory looking ecu case (standard ecus ain't remappable otherwise ) where do the vac lines to and from the pink box go ? If there's a boost controller is it working /plumbed in ?

That's definitely a v3 /v4 set up due to the type of tmic [emoji6] The vac lines between the turbo and actuator ain't standard but that doesn't mean that they're not right for your remapped ecu . Has it got a boost gauge ? Couple of things that might be worth a try to see if you can get it to make boost but don't give it full beans or run it for a long time (it's just to try to diagnose) Remove the dump valve and block the pipe it was in and the vac line that was attached to the top then take it for a test run . This will help to rule out a leaky dump valve being the cause of your lack of boost . If no different plumb it back in then try this Take note where the vac lines currently go then remove the vac line from the turbo outlet and plug the vac line you removed (so it doesn't leak) Remove the vac line from the actuator plug this also Then run a new vac line directly from actuator to turbo outlet. This will by pass the boost solinoid and vacuum system and should give you "actuated boost" about 0.5 bar Also Have a squint at the ecu to see if it's definitely been upgraded as the previous owner might have sold the mappable ecu and fitted a standard one

Delorean owners club ..... That takes me back a bit [emoji39]

Fairy muff [emoji4] I know a few I'd avoid as well [emoji6]

Why's that tidgy ? I don't know who area 52's mapper is and tbh I'd only use my current mapper (Clive attowe) or if I had to use someone new, by reputation I'd choose Andy forest or bob rawl but I've never had any personal experience with either of the last 2

I'm assuming it's a v3 but will soon know once I've seen the bay pics . Parts places and insurance companies normally get a bit confused as to what year and model jdm stuff is but the model codes tell you what it was when it left the factory ,so are normally the best way to identify a scoobs correct model . As for help, your welcome that's what we're here for fella it's just not always that easy to solve problems without actually seeing the car in the flesh and knowing what's been done to it by previous owners

I think most v3 v limiteds are the dark blue 555 colour and all have a v limited badge on the boot / front seats and a build plaque on the center console but at least we know what version it is now . So any engine parts that you need will be for a v3 with a phase 1.5 inlet set up and front entry turbo . The ecu is located under the passenger foot well carpet and will probably have a code sticker on it but if it's had a esl daughter board or simtek/alcertek conversion . you'll probably only be able to see if you remove the outer casing off the ecu and look for one of the names on the printed circuit board . When you say it won't boost does it not make boost at all or does it cut out ? Has it got a boost gauge if so what does it peak at . Does it idle ok and what colour injectors does it have . Could you chuck a couple of pics up of under the bonnet including vac lines from turbo/actuator to boost solinoid (drivers side suspension turret on a black bracket)

Did the mapper say anything about the lag or struggle to get preload pressure on the actuator ? As if you've not got a vac line or actuator issue maybe it could be the modded wrx cat less upipe bore being mismatched to the turbo and headers ,but I will admit i don't know much about catted upipes cos classics don't have em . You Could just get yourself a Harvey trick upipe and a 3 port boost solinoid mapped in anyways . as they're probably the 2 best upgrades to lessen lag and let the mapper control the boost better

Sorry just re read that , Any idea what ecu is in it , probably either esl or alcertek seeing as it's got anti lag but I'm unsure if the ecu code check will work . The "model code" is on a silver plaque the passenger front suspension turret under the bonnet . You'll still need to know what version/ model you've got to make sure the vac lines are set up correctly. As split vac lines and faulty boost solinoids are a common culprit when having boost issues

Here you go fella Link for the exact version http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/3286-model-codes-for-jdm-and-uk/?fromsearch=1 One for the ecu self code check http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/

all I've got is my ticket (with Steves name on it) and the green interior mirror card with a japshow club stand sticker on it . Is there a map of the layout out yet ?

Looks like they've done a good job for under £170 ,I was getting quotes over £100 to paint a boot spoiler off the car[emoji106] Unfortunately mines got a couple of decades worth of dents and scratches to sort before I even think of getting started on the paintwork

Have you tried to flush the rad with a hose pipe to see if it's definitely blocked ?Cos if your thermostat isn't opening the bottom hose would stay cold as it wouldn't allow the hot water in the block to flow through the rad .

Been chasing my own ar5e all day as the plaster goes off far too quick in this heat [emoji57] Was finished and sat at home supping a cold one by 3 though [emoji41] Far too hot (and drunk) to bother washing ,polishing and waxing the scooby now. so I've just told the Mrs my Friday customer has just cancelled [emoji57] I can now sort the scoob Friday instead [emoji39]

I'm not interested in racing anyone tbh I'll probably fook up the launch or miss a gear change anyways [emoji4] just fancied having a go at full throttle cos I rarely use anything more than 3/4 throttle on the road . As i need my licence to get to work every day

Wtf Tapatalk keeps stealing my smileys too [emoji35] Sussed it you have to use the tapa talk emoji button not your phone's keyboard one's [emoji6]

I think there be plenty of helmets there..... Mostly on the Honda stands [emoji39] Joking aside I think I read they're only needed for open top motors doing over a 112 when they cross the line . My weather app says possible thunder storms for Sunday [emoji57] hope they've got it wrong as I probably won't bother doing the 1/4 if the strip is wet

Such a great loss to the subaru community and all those who met him

Have a search on here for the classic self code check and follow the instructions, this allows you to check the ecu for faults which might indicate why you have a boosting issue . 96 is a change over year so it will either be a v2 with a tdo5 16g turbo or a v3 with a front entry (possibly) vf23. Either turbo will make 320+hp with a remap and supporting mods Check the plaque on the suspension turret under the bonnet and cross reference the "model code " (gc8#### number ) with the model code list on here to find out which version you have. As there's a few differences between the v2 sti and v3 sti inlet phase/ fuel rail set up.

Don't get me wrong I have been brought up to treat people how I want to be treated. I'm no thug but I've got no time for people who have a blatant disregard or lack of respect for other people when asked nicely first [emoji6]

Hi n welcome to soc [emoji106] Feel free to jump in on any of the (sometimes random) threads on here And pics ain't compulsory but do brighten up the place [emoji6]

I'd tell my kids to go and kick a ball at it until they come out to have a moan.... Then tell them if they don't like it too fook off and park somewhere else that doesn't block my drive . I used to have a neighbour that insisted on parking halfway over my drop curb making it difficult to get 2 cars on my own drive, even though I'd asked him nicely not to as he lived 5 doors down. Apparently he liked the space as he didn't have to reverse into it so said he'd keep parking there and there's nothing I could do ...... Next time he parked there me my brv and my dad picked up the back of his car and walked it 5 doors down and left it outside his own house . His curtains twitched as we dropped his car for him but he didn't come out or park anywhere near my house again [emoji4]