savage bulldogs

Sorry just re read that , Any idea what ecu is in it , probably either esl or alcertek seeing as it's got anti lag but I'm unsure if the ecu code check will work . The "model code" is on a silver plaque the passenger front suspension turret under the bonnet . You'll still need to know what version/ model you've got to make sure the vac lines are set up correctly. As split vac lines and faulty boost solinoids are a common culprit when having boost issues

Here you go fella Link for the exact version http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/3286-model-codes-for-jdm-and-uk/?fromsearch=1 One for the ecu self code check http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes/

all I've got is my ticket (with Steves name on it) and the green interior mirror card with a japshow club stand sticker on it . Is there a map of the layout out yet ?

Looks like they've done a good job for under £170 ,I was getting quotes over £100 to paint a boot spoiler off the car[emoji106] Unfortunately mines got a couple of decades worth of dents and scratches to sort before I even think of getting started on the paintwork

Have you tried to flush the rad with a hose pipe to see if it's definitely blocked ?Cos if your thermostat isn't opening the bottom hose would stay cold as it wouldn't allow the hot water in the block to flow through the rad .

Been chasing my own ar5e all day as the plaster goes off far too quick in this heat [emoji57] Was finished and sat at home supping a cold one by 3 though [emoji41] Far too hot (and drunk) to bother washing ,polishing and waxing the scooby now. so I've just told the Mrs my Friday customer has just cancelled [emoji57] I can now sort the scoob Friday instead [emoji39]

I'm not interested in racing anyone tbh I'll probably fook up the launch or miss a gear change anyways [emoji4] just fancied having a go at full throttle cos I rarely use anything more than 3/4 throttle on the road . As i need my licence to get to work every day

Wtf Tapatalk keeps stealing my smileys too [emoji35] Sussed it you have to use the tapa talk emoji button not your phone's keyboard one's [emoji6]

I think there be plenty of helmets there..... Mostly on the Honda stands [emoji39] Joking aside I think I read they're only needed for open top motors doing over a 112 when they cross the line . My weather app says possible thunder storms for Sunday [emoji57] hope they've got it wrong as I probably won't bother doing the 1/4 if the strip is wet

Such a great loss to the subaru community and all those who met him

Have a search on here for the classic self code check and follow the instructions, this allows you to check the ecu for faults which might indicate why you have a boosting issue . 96 is a change over year so it will either be a v2 with a tdo5 16g turbo or a v3 with a front entry (possibly) vf23. Either turbo will make 320+hp with a remap and supporting mods Check the plaque on the suspension turret under the bonnet and cross reference the "model code " (gc8#### number ) with the model code list on here to find out which version you have. As there's a few differences between the v2 sti and v3 sti inlet phase/ fuel rail set up.

Don't get me wrong I have been brought up to treat people how I want to be treated. I'm no thug but I've got no time for people who have a blatant disregard or lack of respect for other people when asked nicely first [emoji6]

Hi n welcome to soc [emoji106] Feel free to jump in on any of the (sometimes random) threads on here And pics ain't compulsory but do brighten up the place [emoji6]

I'd tell my kids to go and kick a ball at it until they come out to have a moan.... Then tell them if they don't like it too fook off and park somewhere else that doesn't block my drive . I used to have a neighbour that insisted on parking halfway over my drop curb making it difficult to get 2 cars on my own drive, even though I'd asked him nicely not to as he lived 5 doors down. Apparently he liked the space as he didn't have to reverse into it so said he'd keep parking there and there's nothing I could do ...... Next time he parked there me my brv and my dad picked up the back of his car and walked it 5 doors down and left it outside his own house . His curtains twitched as we dropped his car for him but he didn't come out or park anywhere near my house again [emoji4]

Today I've done absolutely fook all apart from walking around the house like something from shaun of the dead [emoji40] Had a great bbq yesterday but drinking far too much and sitting in the sun for far too long equals ....... Monster hangover from hell [emoji30]

Looking at that link of the type of catch can you have it seems like it's supposed to separate the condensation and oil then return the oil to sump/block and the water vapour (not oil) back into the intake Unfortunately I haven't got much experience with anything other than catch cans as the cheap one on my classic is the first one I've ever fitted or owned . oil separators are a bit more technical as they're supposed to separate the oil and water vapour with baffles and get rid of it rather than just catching it . I do find it a bit strange that your getting excessive oil coming out of the dv as any access oil should surely be returned to sump/block (if it's been fitted correctly) It could just be old oil in the intercooler/pipe work that's being pushed through and hopefully it's not your turbo seals on the way out or a fitting issue If a garage fitted for you I'd probably just let them have a squint to try to find out why it's got oil in the intake air when it should be separated and returned back into the block

You could also try a local windscreen replacement firm , when I had a new screen fitted into my uk turbo last year the fitter had a load of the subaru oe gutter clips on board. as you have to remove the gutter trim to get to the windscreen seals on classics

I fitted my catch can to simplify things a bit and stop oil entering the intake . Mine is only a cheap vta but has stopped the oil collecting in the intake pipe work . Does yours return to sump or vta as it sounds like it's possibly not releasing the pressure as it should

When I fitted the 6 speed and pink box clutch to my classic I found that putting a block of wood and a jack on the headers to tilt the engine while trying to re align the idle shaft to the clutch made life a bit easier. I've used this method for 5 classic and clutch and box replacements and with the help of my "gym monkey " brv had no issues with re alignment doing it on the drive with the scoob on axle stands with blocks of wood

On most subarus (impreza ,foz,legacies ect) there seems to be 2 common ways to do a clutch. Pull the engine forward which I assume means removing the rad (as i haven't personally tried this method) When removing the box from underneath the main problem you need to overcome is getting the underside of the car high enough off the ground. To clear the bell housing if you want to fully remove the box from under the car and out of the transmission tunnel

If the piston moves freely just give the calipers a good clean ,remove them ,remove the gators over the sliding part ,clean the old grease off ,renew the grease and fit new gators . The likes of "god speed" or "Asperformance" will probably keep the gators and piston seal kits (if the piston is seized) in stock . If you don't feel confident stripping brakes yourself you could buy some refurbished units . Or you can upgrade to 2 pot rears of a newage /late classic sti ,type r

Just seemed cheap compared to mine I'm 41[emoji57] with full ncb and a 21yr old sti but I have got a like for like replacement on all the modifications so didn't think it was too bad . As I paid £560 fully comp for my first standard v3 uk turbo with a mainstream insurance broker 3 yrs ago . still nearly 3 times what you're paying though bud ,nice [emoji106]

The single pot rear calipers only have a piston on 1 side so rely on the "carrier" sliding freely to create equal pressure on both faces of the disc . There's rubber gators over the sliding part of the calipers that perish and cause them to seize if moisture gets In and they're not replaced and regreased [emoji6]

Hi n welcome, nice clean standard looking classic you've managed to find there [emoji106] I've got a few classic bits up for grabs in the for sale section, calipers, braided brake lines and Whiteline droplinks .plus I've got a few other bits kicking around but most of my bits are v1 to v4 and your's is a v5/v6 You're not to far from me, as I'm near the south Suffolk coast I'll keep a eye out and give you a wave if I spot you out n about

Dunno about that ,cos I don't think I've heard a scoob that sounds quite as dirty as mine . A friend of mine lives locally to me (used to own a loud wrx) I always get a text when I drive 2 roads down from where he lives, asking for me to take a different route cos it makes him miss his scooby Apparently according to him " if my scoobs a female it must be a !Removed! star cos it screams dirty noises and bangs a lot "