savage bulldogs

Today I've done absolutely fook all apart from walking around the house like something from shaun of the dead [emoji40] Had a great bbq yesterday but drinking far too much and sitting in the sun for far too long equals ....... Monster hangover from hell [emoji30]

Looking at that link of the type of catch can you have it seems like it's supposed to separate the condensation and oil then return the oil to sump/block and the water vapour (not oil) back into the intake Unfortunately I haven't got much experience with anything other than catch cans as the cheap one on my classic is the first one I've ever fitted or owned . oil separators are a bit more technical as they're supposed to separate the oil and water vapour with baffles and get rid of it rather than just catching it . I do find it a bit strange that your getting excessive oil coming out of the dv as any access oil should surely be returned to sump/block (if it's been fitted correctly) It could just be old oil in the intercooler/pipe work that's being pushed through and hopefully it's not your turbo seals on the way out or a fitting issue If a garage fitted for you I'd probably just let them have a squint to try to find out why it's got oil in the intake air when it should be separated and returned back into the block

You could also try a local windscreen replacement firm , when I had a new screen fitted into my uk turbo last year the fitter had a load of the subaru oe gutter clips on board. as you have to remove the gutter trim to get to the windscreen seals on classics

I fitted my catch can to simplify things a bit and stop oil entering the intake . Mine is only a cheap vta but has stopped the oil collecting in the intake pipe work . Does yours return to sump or vta as it sounds like it's possibly not releasing the pressure as it should

When I fitted the 6 speed and pink box clutch to my classic I found that putting a block of wood and a jack on the headers to tilt the engine while trying to re align the idle shaft to the clutch made life a bit easier. I've used this method for 5 classic and clutch and box replacements and with the help of my "gym monkey " brv had no issues with re alignment doing it on the drive with the scoob on axle stands with blocks of wood

On most subarus (impreza ,foz,legacies ect) there seems to be 2 common ways to do a clutch. Pull the engine forward which I assume means removing the rad (as i haven't personally tried this method) When removing the box from underneath the main problem you need to overcome is getting the underside of the car high enough off the ground. To clear the bell housing if you want to fully remove the box from under the car and out of the transmission tunnel

If the piston moves freely just give the calipers a good clean ,remove them ,remove the gators over the sliding part ,clean the old grease off ,renew the grease and fit new gators . The likes of "god speed" or "Asperformance" will probably keep the gators and piston seal kits (if the piston is seized) in stock . If you don't feel confident stripping brakes yourself you could buy some refurbished units . Or you can upgrade to 2 pot rears of a newage /late classic sti ,type r

Just seemed cheap compared to mine I'm 41[emoji57] with full ncb and a 21yr old sti but I have got a like for like replacement on all the modifications so didn't think it was too bad . As I paid £560 fully comp for my first standard v3 uk turbo with a mainstream insurance broker 3 yrs ago . still nearly 3 times what you're paying though bud ,nice [emoji106]

The single pot rear calipers only have a piston on 1 side so rely on the "carrier" sliding freely to create equal pressure on both faces of the disc . There's rubber gators over the sliding part of the calipers that perish and cause them to seize if moisture gets In and they're not replaced and regreased [emoji6]

Hi n welcome, nice clean standard looking classic you've managed to find there [emoji106] I've got a few classic bits up for grabs in the for sale section, calipers, braided brake lines and Whiteline droplinks .plus I've got a few other bits kicking around but most of my bits are v1 to v4 and your's is a v5/v6 You're not to far from me, as I'm near the south Suffolk coast I'll keep a eye out and give you a wave if I spot you out n about

Dunno about that ,cos I don't think I've heard a scoob that sounds quite as dirty as mine . A friend of mine lives locally to me (used to own a loud wrx) I always get a text when I drive 2 roads down from where he lives, asking for me to take a different route cos it makes him miss his scooby Apparently according to him " if my scoobs a female it must be a !Removed! star cos it screams dirty noises and bangs a lot "

I have been to the pod a couple of times but that was over a decade ago ,so fooked if I can remember how long it takes to get there from Suffolk. I intend to get there about 745 hopefully stants will be there already and can guide me in on the phone . Once I'm at the stand I could just leave my car running and the rest of you can hone in on my dirty raspy burble

Cheers fettling keeps me out of the pub and close to home ,most of the "subaru specific version" hoses are second hand samco (to keep the costs down a bit) Yeah blue n red is a bit of a old school theme and makes it easy to find extra hoses /vac lines and paint to match

If bandits hotel has a big car park could we maybe all meet they're and convoy in ? I get lost in my own back garden so will be purely relying on the sat nav lol

Both My classics have been silver with black rims and plastic trims . I went for red engine block and cam covers, blue inlet manifold and hoses on the v3 when I fitted the engine to the silver v1 sti I kept the red block / cam covers, added blue vac lines to the blue coolant hoses and painted the inlet red as I fancied a bit of a change. Unfortunately the only pic I've got of red hoses is of a friends black type r Have a look on Google images for modified impreza engine bays it might give you both a bit of inspiration on a colour you can both agree to . But most of all don't forget to upload some before and after pics on here

Its a Cheap family day out and it's for charity, bit gutted im busy that weekend tbh I Probably should have posted this In a different region seeing as it's near Leicester (closer to Birmingham than me lol)

Are you 83 and driving a justy ? Mines just over £400

Donation of £10 per car and the filled in invite has to be handed in at the gate ,I'll dig a link out bud Here you go http://www.scoobycity.co.uk/forums/forum/events/future-events/authorised-sc-events/768425-asda-charity-day-bruntingthorpe-track-saturday-august-8th-2015

You can get you a invite through scooby city as they've been invited to the event again ,it's basically a form to be filled out and put on the dash . There's only 5 or so going so didn't make the numbers for the stand and will be parking in the car park. I do think some of them have asked for track passes which allow them to offer passenger laps for charity, although I'm unsure if they've got them due to people abusing the track passes last year and just using them get cheap track time . There's normally quite a choice of cars to have both track and rally passenger hot laps anyways. If anyone's interested I'll chuck a link up to the scooby city thread ,so you can join up n stick your name down

Got mine as well ,panic over

Nice work[emoji106] it takes me weeks of hinting and wobblers to persuade my Mrs to let me do most things "scooby" I'm not to sure about times, maybe check the jap show thread for Links to the Santa pod site but I will be on the soc stand from early till 4 ish [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Unfortunately i Think I'll have to buy a baffle plate and oil return boss and get them welded in to a standard sump to suit my sub £300 budget . Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Nice collection of parts there bud

I've replaced a few spigot bearings in the middle of the flywheel and done a stub axle conversion to fit the 6 speed in my classic but Sorry I personally can't help with gearbox internals as I've never had one apart (it's all witchcraft to me). Have you tried to find a main dealer part number as this might indicate a separate part ? I do have a early classic ty52 box with 3 Rd fubar but don't fancy tearing it apart and getting oil everywhere just to check . I'm in Suffolk if the ty52 casing is any use to you your welcome to collect it for scrap value Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Yeah no problem if anyone else asks I'll check with you via pm before I let them go . The discs are drilled and grooved and have plenty of life left I just warped the inside faces with the old hard compound kevlar pads . So if you know a engineering place that re skims discs it might be a cheaper option rather than buying new Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk