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savage bulldogs

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Everything posted by savage bulldogs

  1. Hi n welcome to soc ,nice choice of scoob the 2 door classic . Basic Type r's are pretty much a 2 door version of the 4 classic saloon wrx sti with dccd (direct control center diff) allows you to adjust power from front to rear . P1's are rarer due to the lower build numbers have a different interior rear spoiler longer uk gear ratios but no dccd . Ra stands for race altered and subaru did 2 and 4 door versions of these which normally means it's a bit lighter . I don't know what they did to 4 door Wrx ra's to change them tbh Wrx sti ra's have a working roof scoop(not a halfords stick on) manual window winders (saves the weight from the leccy motors) and some earlier ones have no side skirts (to save weight) Type r ra's pretty much the same as the wrx sti ra's (albeit with only 2 doors) There's a few special editions the like the 555 and some ra's didn't have the full lightening pack as far as I'm aware unless some owners have fitted side skirts and leccy windows . They're is a link on here somewhere showing all models and spec but I can't seem to find it atm. In the meantime feel free to search around on here , have a look at the buyers guide and post any links of possible cars you find and we'll do our best to advise you . Best of luck with the hunt fella
  2. I'd get a few insurance quotes for your hatch with a 2ltr na conversion first as it might be too expensive anyways . If the quotes are too high you might be better off sticking with what you've got until you can afford to insure a turbo version . But if it's not too expensive and you fancy a project try researching compatibility with 1.5 and 2ltr Ecus (how many plugs) Inlets (are the intake port gaskets on the heads the same ) Flywheel/clutch Engine loom and auxiliaries . If neither of above floats you're goat maybe put yours back to standard sell it , buy a 2ltr na version and bolt your bits to that
  3. If I remember rightly yours had a mixture of later black plastic and early cast cam pulleys so had possibly been apart before ghost . I might be wrong about the dates on the tensioner change though as it's only what I've been told . I've only worked on a v1's (cast cam pulleys) and v3's (plastic cam pulleys) which both had the early hydraulic tensioners
  4. Best of luck ghost . I'm sure the extra boost and a few more spg (smiles per gallon) will make it your favourite mod so far [emoji6]
  5. Think the main difference in a full kit is that pre 97 ish have a hydraulic tensioner and later versions have a spring loaded tensioner . If you have a look on importcarparts website they'll have the right type listed for your year/model
  6. I'd get a hydrocarbon sniff test done at a different reputable garage to rule out combustion gasses in the coolant before working on it yourself , as they might say that you voided the warranty . if the head gaskets have gone it's going to cost a fair bit and the garage should be paying for it so soon after purchase
  7. I'm unsure if the fronts are the same as rears but I bought new elbaich rear camber bolts for my classic off ebay they were only £23 deliverd anyways
  8. Calipers have been "scooby " blue for 3 yrs so I fancied a change and wanted to try something a bit different . Wheels are polar black which is gloss black with blue n silver metallic flakes but my phone camera doesn't pick up the colours very well . They're gonna be a pain to keep clean cos they looked like this after a 10 mile drive through town lol
  9. Got the rotas back from the paint shop
  10. I don't enjoy cleaning tbh (ask my mrs lol) But I do like my car to look clean so do it under duress for the end result
  11. Only reason I wear gloves when I'm working on my engine is so I don't get finger prints on it lol
  12. No problem fella "scoob" is like a different language but once you understand the basics the rest is plain sailing . Generally uk turbos are based on the wrx (same internals and cams) with a longer ratio box and different trim than their jdm wrx counterparts . Of course it does depend on exact year and condition but a my98 uk will have a tdo4 turbo pushing about 0.7 bar producing 220 hp . Typical "breathing" mods and a uprated fuel pump (just in case the original is a bit tired and fails) with a remap will max the turbo @ about 1.3 bar 270hp ish . Next level of tune would be yellow 440cc injectors (if yours has greys 380cc) with a tdo5 or vf turbo you should see 320hp after a remap . 350 hp is about the max for internals and drivetrain (so it gets fairly expensive after then ) Your block type will probably be open deck As for the engine version if the coil pack is in the centre it's a v3/v4 (phase 1.5 /inlet fuel set up) If the coilpack is of set to the right as you look at the engine then it's a v5/v6 (phase 2 inlet/fuel set up) Ask away if I haven't answered or confused a issue [emoji6]
  13. Na tbh she just gets under my feet and licks my skin head when im laying under the car [emoji35] Last time she "helped" I got a earfull off the mrs cos the dog got filthy and proceeded to do the "itchy bum shuffle" across our front room carpet to get clean [emoji1]
  14. What info are you after bud ? Max power from the internals /drivetrain ? Version type? (you need to know this when searching for replacement/upgraded parts) Or just oe spec ?
  15. Pink box is probably the way to go 5 speed ones are rated to 400hp 6 speed pink boxes are rated to a bit more due to the slightly bigger dia . Just make sure you buy it from a reputable dealer about £280 as there was a few cheaper copies floating about on ebay . I've always had the flywheel skimmed (about £30) changed the driveshaft/propshaft seals (about £30 for all 3) And changed the spigot bearing in the centre of the fly wheel (about £8) Plus fresh gearbox oil and downpipe gaskets [emoji6]
  16. Hence why I do everything myself with the bulldog watching over whatever i do of course [emoji4]
  17. My original plan was to get the mechanicals spot on and then build a wide body type r shell to fit it all in[emoji41] But the uk's arches fell off before I'd even got close to finishing the mechanics and the v1 sti shell was to clean to scrap
  18. Buy a type r with a blown engine and fit a newage sti block and 6 speed box [emoji106] Cos as you say it would be a shame to buy a rare car and mod to much [emoji6] Is that gear knobless bug supposed to have different colour front seats as well ?
  19. Yeah dirty dervs are torquey low down i do Wish i still had access to welding/fabrication equipment as would've made some custom pipework myself
  20. Lovely looking build you've got there i used the same pistons but deleted the squirters instead ,liking the headwork as well [emoji106] A friends skyline runs a diesel truck turbo it goes like stink from low down in the revs i assumed it was due to the larger hotside . to be honest i need to read up a bit more to understand compressor flow charts and the differences larger hotsides and matched upipes make . i take it your going custom rotated with the turbo pipework will you flip the fmic core as well ? Keep the updates and pics coming bud [emoji6]
  21. Is there any other obvious tweeks from the standard uk turbo spec for that year ? Prodrive seats or matts , running more than standard boost , short shift and ecu code variations ect As these are normally the sort of parts in a Prodrive package if they have tweeked a scoob
  22. I'm fairly sure the raised "subaru" design was on the later classics but don't know if early newage had them too before they switched over to the flat faced subaru sticker type. Glad you've got the bigger discs and pads as well rick as the 2 pot discs aren't compatible on impreza so foz are probably the same , unless they uprated the discs dia for the 2 pot foz set up . I've just painted mine lime green haven't seen them with the wheels on yet though cos they're still wet Are you going to give them a coat of paint ?
  23. Mine weren't too bad as they were shot blasted , primed and painted 3yrs ago when I refurbed them with stainless steel pistons (so I did them in situ) Pulled pins and pads out Sprayed them with degreasent and wiped them over with thinners . Wire brushed and sanded them a bit with a scotch pad to give the paint a key , wiped them over with thinners again . 2 coats of brush on lime green paint later Might paint the "subaru" bit in black at a later date but I've still got the rears to do first
  24. Today I be mostly .... Painting stuff
  25. Hmmmm shiny [emoji41] And best of luck with the test [emoji6]

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