savage bulldogs

Dunno if they fit the foz but ,I've got 2 good classic rads in the scooby stuff shed[emoji6] Get a second hand rad and tell the mrs it's the factory spec hoses that are leaking ....... Shiny silicone hoses here we come [emoji4]

I've got one on my jdm classic it was a pita to fit as my rear loom to the lights and wash wipe had to be re routed . Probably pointless me measuring it as yours is newage but that does look to big . Have you checked the part number to see if they sent you the right one ?

The tmic's themselves seem to have got better from classic to newage but the position they're in will always cause a heat soak issue . You could try a bigger scoop (if they do them for blob eyes) a zero sports undertray or even some ice in the sti tmic water spray bottle, for track day 100 mph stuff

Busy day then [emoji4] Check you haven't got a air leak anywhere nevell as any discrepancies between the amount of air the maf reads and what pressure the map reads in the inlet might also pop up a maf or map code (could be a cheap fix [emoji6] )

Think there's a difference somewhere other than just the tensioner (in the idle pulleys maybe) Best bet would be to take off the right hand cam cover and visually check whether you have the early or late tensioner . As early 97 is v3 (early tensioner) and late 97 is v4 (later tensioner). Once you know what type of tensioner your engine's got have a look on here for a kit that suits your needs/budget http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=10719&cat=96⊂=97&sec=143&var=25&dc=0&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= but if you can afford it get rollers, belt , tensioner and water pump for piece of mind

Yeah I've got a soft spot for mk1 escorts [emoji7] I haven't got a clue what he's going to do with it he's just took it to his work shop and left it there for now . He's got a mk2 escort project with a v6 galaxy lump in it , 5 other cars ,does civic banger racing and runs his own garage so he hasn't got the time to even look at it. Spat all it's oil outta the crank seal so doesn't look like a quick fix [emoji19]

Gaulson the Washer bottle was minging even though I did give it a rinse during the reshell and it's been bugging me for a while lol Today I sort of killed my neighbours bubble arched mk1 escort [emoji53] He spotted me heading towards the carriage way and decided he wanted to prove his N/A st engine running twin carbs was faster than my 21 yr old classic up the slip lane .... After the st engine spat it's guts out I gave him a lift home to collect his recovery truck. I Launched mine out of the lay by up to 70 mph , his face went white and he said "well this obviously ain't standard no wonder I couldn't keep up "[emoji5] Poor escort [emoji53]

Oh and today I man'd up , braved the cold and treated the old girl to a oil n filter change .... Did end up getting a bit side tracked while waiting for the oil to drain my ocd got the better of me [emoji4] ended up removing the windscreen washer bottle , filling it with bicarbonate soda and giving it a clean by stuffing some rags in it and poking them about with various screw drivers [emoji2]

Knock sensors bolted to the block at the back right ,you'll better off removing the tmic if it needs changing eventually .it's the black bit with a bolt in the middle with the white plug in this pic

Yeah it will take a while for the ecu to learn and make adjustments for the bigger pipework . And no problems glad it is of some use to you [emoji106]

Notice any difference in sound,boost/spool with the sti tmic ?

Cheers nevell Mine vents to atmosphere via a filter on top as I couldn't be arsed to plumb in a return to sump plus baffled cans that return to sump set ups are expensive (think my ebay can was £30 ish) so I just keep a eye on both the can and my engine oil levels . Only issue I've had with the position of my can is I sometimes get a slight wiff of oil as its close to the air intake for the heater/blower . I might run the vent line down the gearbox tunnel at a later date

Your original bushes look the same size as my original ones off both of my classics and my whiteline ones look exactly the same as my original ones apart from being yellow

Tbh I've never seen the later type tensioner in the flesh as I've only ever worked on v1 to v3 A rally engine builder gave me a bit of advice while i was building my engine and described the earlier tensioner as "hydraulic" rather than spring loaded Here's a pic of the early one in situ it looks like a little hydraulic piston above the water pump and is different to either one in the links

No pre cat in the upipe on a 94 (v1) However they're is one main difference in the v1/v2 exhaust set up . Your lambda sensor will be in the headers (pre upipe) and all 97 (v3) onwards imprezas have the lambda sensor in the downpipe (after turbo) Basically if you're thinking of decatting the downpipe you'll need a bung for the downpipe lambda hole that is in most aftermarket/later downpipes

My classic ones were 15 mm I/d I bought 3mtrs of "Ash" silicone hose,15 mm o/d 'T' piece and a 2 port ebay catch can . I 'T'd the cam breathers together for one port and ran the crank breather to the other port . It might pay to buy some elbows to allow you to run the pipes in the direction you need in your bay cos the ash hoses are quite stiff and not very bendy Cost about £60 all in to do my classic but check the diameter of the passenger cam breather on yours to make sure there's not a size difference . Here's a pic of mine to show the breather location and the stiff blue ash hoses

matt I think the vf35 is journal based (like a tdo5 ) hence why they'll make better top end power . Vf34 has same size wheels but a bigger exhaust housing and a roller bearing core , so it spools a bit quicker. Just thought I'd mention it cos I thought you were after low down power rather than top end pull [emoji6]

Couldn't tell you which spring tensioner is correct but being a my97 engine I'd have thought it should have the earlier hydraulic tensioner . I was advised to use the hydraulic type for my build (as their stronger). Have a look on the import car parts website to see which one is correct for your year or give them a bell and speak to luke (as he knows his scoob bits)

No problem gambit you know I like to help if possible[emoji106] Dates of versions are a bit sketchy best bet is to check your model code on silver plaque on the passenger front suspension turret (gc8..... number) then cross reference that with the model codes on the pinned thread in the impreza section [emoji6]

It must have been a 2ltr if it was off a bug originally . Last time I had mine on the rollers one of the operators said "fook me your scoob sounds brutal " [emoji5] Gruppe slip jointed tubular headers 4 bolt upipe Ported turbo hotside 3" cusco divorced wastgate decat down pipe 3" 5zigen slip jointed jasma cat back . Nice burble under 3k [emoji41] but after then it sounds just plain DIRTY [emoji33] [emoji51] [emoji12]

I think Front entry tdo5's were only fitted to newage as only the early phase 1 classics had the tdo5 top entry ,so that might be why the fitment is different . I don't know much about newage tbh but I think the front entry tdo5 was fitted to the 2.5 ltr engines , so they're might have a bigger exhaust housing . What's the diameter of the upipe end rick ? Afaik when classics changed to front entry phase 1.5 (v3 onwards) they still used a front entry td04 for uk and wrx but opted for the vf series for the sti's, type r, rb5 ect .

I've seen a few pulley failures due to the bolts being being over tightened as well [emoji6]

I can't help there I'm afraid as I haven't seen the inside of a standard ecu , only esl'd ones and my current apexi .

Always run the high octane with a jdm ,unless it's been remapped for uk fuel, as their mapped from the factory to use hi octane . They're are "chips" which are a generic map with higher boost and more aggressive cam timing , like a "mines" ecu chip but imo you can't beat a bespoke remap

I would've said it's standard as the esl board is quite large and distinctive but subaru standard ecus normally have a letter and a number (6s , sa, z4 ..... ect) on the casing . Have you googled the info on the sticker ? It might be chipped or be a aftermarket ecu , although I've not heard of the funny tech factory before . Simtek Apexi Gems Esl Syvecs Are about the only mappable options I'm aware work on the early classics .