savage bulldogs

Thats a Standard ecu innerds so not mappable I'm afraid bud .

I generally use a dab of threadlock if I'm unsure of the torque settings and ,as you say, just go by feel (que gambit lol) my 6 speed has the ppp short shift and selection is fine but during "lead foot" I do feel a slight pull on the gearstick when the boost comes in. So I've been looking at the "hardrace" engine and box mounts and various types of bushes and diff braces .

I think 7d is the standard ecu for your age uk turbo you but it still could be mapped if it has a esl or alcertek ecu board in it . Although I do doubt that it has been mapped due to it having a manual boost controller . The standard injectors should be grey 380's for that year and ecu . electrics aren't my forte unfortunately but maybe check all earths /plugs are clean under the bonnet . Also check there's no break in the insulation on the wiring especially near the starter motor and throttle position sensor (black sensor on the throttle body) .As this tells the ecu the position of the throttle and adjusts the fuelling to suit throttle position . Here's a pic of a early esl'd ecu so you can check if it's been mapped or can be remapped

Nice one stants [emoji106] I've got bushes, mounts and maybe a anti lift kit on my (never ending) list of what to do next [emoji6] How much did the group n stuff cost ?

It's To far away and on a school day so I can't make it [emoji20] Would've liked to support the cause as simon was a lovely fella Would've been nice to see andy "run forest run" down the quarter too [emoji5]

Hopefully a code check, the ecu number and ecu reset will give us some answers .

Lol Added a few more bit's to the list

Classics have a self code read function (much like the gm paperclip test ) connect some plugs together under the dash there's a how to on here somewhere The ecu is Under Passenger side front carpet behind a kick pannel what's the number code sticker on the ecu ? If it is a subaru ecu (not aftermarket) it would need to have a esl daughter board fitted in order to be remapped , the only way to find out is to unplug the ecu , take the cover off and look for a circuit board with esl 93/96 printed on it Does it even backfire when off boost and you gradually build the Rev's up or is it just on full throttle ?

Unfortunately it Sound's like the previous owner just bolted on a bigger tdo5 and turned the boost up with the manual controller (uk turbo's should have a tdo4) without mapping it . If that is the case the oe map fuelling would be set up for the smaller turbo and is probably retarding the timing and using the fuel cut to try to stop any damage . Have you done a self code check ? Do you know what ecu is in it and if it's been mapped ?

Nice work cusco [emoji106] I went for "scooby" blue but might change them to kawasaki green when I get my rims refurbished black [emoji5]

Sorry i don't know much about foz model codes is it a N.A version ? When was the last time it had a spark plug change ? as a misfire might cause lumpy idle and lack of throttle response, as mine fired up and drove on 2 cylinders with the same symptoms ..... When I accidentally plugged the left bank coilpacks in back to front [emoji51] [emoji4]

Got quite a few bit's kicking about so thought I'd stick a list up . v3/v4 phase1.5 powder coated inlet with fuel rails , oe intake pipe, purge valve and part loom £60 SOLD V3/v4 coilpack £15 ht leads £10 Classic braided brake lines £20 Phase 1/1.5 440cc injectors (ultrasonically cleaned 1.5 k ago) £50 SOLD Full v3 uk interior no rips or tears £50 . SOLD Genuine crystal head lights £40 SOLD Genuine crystal spotlights £ 30 SOLD Preface splitter (no cracks but needs painting) £40 Aftermarket high level spoiler with rust free bootlid £50 SOLD Whiteline "pigtail" front droplinks (to suit steel arms) £20 V3 sti tmic with ally hard pipe £30 SOLD Standard ported headers £50 Pannels in 406 silver rust free doors / facelift bonnet Prices based on collection from suffolk pics on request and I'll add more as I find it . Thanks for looking Clive

Yeah I sold stu the front entry coldside I had converted for my v3 . So you just have to remove the actuator bracket , release the big circlip and switch the coldsides over . No need to re balance as you don't disturb the core [emoji6]

Maybe try removing the dump valve and blanking the hole and vacuum pipe to see if it idles better / holds light boost . Don't boost to hard or drive about to much with it blanked off , it's just to check the valve itself isn't leaking As it sounds like a vacuum or boost leak to me

Did you put the bung in the intake pipe that should come with the dumpvalve ?

No probs I'll convert it when ever you want stu (it will only take 20 mins) I won't offer to fit it though as it's not warm enough for me to be playing spanner monkey outside yet [emoji4]

Nearly bought a alcertek for my scoob today but decided to keep the apexi and get a z32 maff

Ok fella I'll drop em a email to check .

Thanks for the speedy reply tim . I'm not in a rush it's not due a change till march but would prefer to go back to the nano drive 10w 50 as the fuchs doesn't quiten the race pistons quite as well

Hi tim have you got any deals on the millers nano drive 10w 50 ?

Did you use the newage one's matt ?

Or leave tracks like snails

Rather partial to a nice set of flaps myself[emoji6] just not too keen on really big flaps that drag on the ground when moving [emoji4]

They look ideal in size, cos i don't want dirty great big rally flaps How much were they , any links bud ? Did you have to drill any holes in the front wings? I don't mind drilling holes in the rear bumper but I've only just put the front wings back on after sorting the surface rust

I recon the slim vinyl type would suit me better as hopefully they'll bend around the spats . Unlike the oe subaru ones as they're rigid plastic