savage bulldogs

No problem fella [emoji106] It will stay in the shed with the other half a scoob, well untill I can be bothered to sort through it all [emoji5] I struggled to find a de cat when I was looking for one earlier this year and nearly ended up buying a new japspeed one .

Got a sports cat with divorced wastegate in the shed think it's 3" to 2.75" at the cat back end . For £120 + pp if it's any good to you matt

Think I saw a set of those 15's on a preface classic sport wagon today . But as matt said I doubt 15's would clear 4 pots although I think some 16's will with the right offset

Will you run spacers or wide rims to fill the arches ? I've always fancied a wide body classic but don't want to hack the clean rear arches of the current shell

If the wife's in the car I get plenty of whining when I hit anything over about 0.8 bar anyways [emoji39] As for nos I just need to do a bit more research , cos if I've got to buy a bigger turbo and injectors to break the 400hp barrier (with the nos installed) there's not much point .

I've got a bug momo wheel for sale it's in fairly good nick was told it was off a sti (red stitching)

Glad you Brought it up stu[emoji106] cos I don't know whether he's got the same scenario as my old uk so wouldn't have wanted to advise someone to do something unessary or wrong give me a shout once you've got one and I'll gladly convert it for you bud ,just give it a bit of a clean first . Cos I don't like working on dirty scooby scraps [emoji4]

I saw that thread the first time it cropped up stu [emoji106] and like most oil related threads I didn't comment as it's normally a can of worms lol But it bring up a valid point that synthetic oils don't tend to leave sludge in the oil ways as much as mineral oils .so with regular changes with synthetic oil you shouldn't need to flush it [emoji6] My uk turbo was on 90k and it had heavy piston slap when cold running10w 40 oil . So I flushed it and replaced the oil with 10w 50 and then added some slick 50 , yes I know lots of people hate this stuff too but it sounded like a transit when cold [emoji16] it took longer to warm up (less friction I assumed) and was slightly quieter when cold, I ran it for another 2yrs at 270hp using the same grade oil changed at 5k intervals . I now prefer 10w 50 millers nano drive as it suits my forged build clearances better Mabey if it's not broken don't fix it and just stick with just a refresh of the same grade of oil your currently running .especially if you haven't got any piston slap or hydraulic lifter noise on cold start up

If it's a genuine hks fmic you could sell it on for £200 ish . I'd just be a bit wary of how long it's been running un mapped with mods and if any damage has been done already . I'd check history for cambelt and service intervals and if it hasn't had a cambelt done use that as a bartering tool . As Cambelts cost in the region of £400 to £600 to get done at a garage . Make sure it's cold on start up so you can check for piston slap and have a squint at the buying guide on here . Most of all it's a good time of year to buy (Christmas pending) so try not to rush in a buy a shiny lemon [emoji6]

Shouldn't affect carbon build up as I don't think there should be any in the oil system (mainly in the combustion areas) imo it won't do any harm as long as the flush is suitable for ally engine's

Jdm= Japanese Domestic Market so yes mate it's imported Does look like the bonnet and bumper is a different colour in the pics And I'd be wary of scoobs with front mounts that haven't been re mapped as it changes the fuelling quite a bit . But otherwise it looks quite clean

I've got a road angel in mine ,well until my brv remembers that he left it in the shell [emoji4] I unplugged it as it kept shouting "ROAD ANGEL" whenever you turned the ignition on and getting on the mrs nerves [emoji5] I'll plug it in over the weekend and see if it's any good [emoji106]

First time he mapped my uk about 18 months ago, he was undergoing treatment for skin and gland cancer . Spoke to him last week about turbos and he sounded as optimistic as ever I saw it on a few fb posts and was quite shocked and sadden by it.

Such a lovely fella who helped me and many others out above and beyond just mapping. After a battle with cancer he passed away this morning and will be missed by so many . Rip si [emoji20]

Whiteline front "pigtails"£25 posted Superpro solid ally front droplinks £45 posted (£100+ new) They're both for steel wishbones so are of no use to me as the v1 sti has got ally wishbones [emoji19]

I changed my droplinks first (so I'm not 100% sure) but don't think a bigger bar would damage existing droplinks . Bit of a shame as my brv sold his rear Whiteline arb and droplinks for £60 in the end . I have got 2 sets of aftermarket front droplinks but they're off my classic so don't know if the fronts are the same on the foz

I'd heard about the pistons seizing in the 4 pots as I'd done some research before upgrading my old uk's 2 pot front calipers . So I bought a cheap seized set to refurb with stainless steel pistons and new seal kit to hopefully cure the seizing issue . when I stripped them down (proir to sand blasting) I noticed that the pistons were moving freely . it was the fact that a rattle plate was missing and the pad had jammed on the dry pad retaining pin causing uneven wear on the previous cars disc's (so I bought new rattle plates and pad pins as well) If attempting the seal change yourself just make sure there's no rust marks on the pistons or piston walls , you can lightly emery cloth them out if so . Use loads of brake cleaner and make sure everything uber clean on assembly and you'll be fine ,fella I use copper slip on most bolts and moving parts without issue but I don't smear anything on gators or seals, cos as said above , they're designed to keep dust away My cars are constantly being pulled apart so I've probably kept copperslip and autosol afloat during the last recession [emoji4] Failing that buy some pre helicoiled brembos [emoji6]

I did think about fitting a twin charge system and using a tdo6 Don't fancy putting the inlet back to standard as the alternator is currently relocated in the ideal place to mount the charger [emoji19] I'd have to upgrade injector sizes and clutch as they're only good for just over 400hp . Tbh it was just soo tempting looking at that massive rotrex supercharger but out of my price range atm . Also I'm still enjoying the current power so I'll probably just keep switching the best bits over to the sti for now and save my cash for next years shinagans I've always got a few more ponies to squeeze outta the tdo5 if I get bored and might still need a flip switch eventually ..... As I still haven't ruled out nos [emoji39]

Did you give them a good clean and copperslip the retaining pins ? I refurbished my 4 pots with a stainless steel piston kit from "godspeed" with new rattle plates and pins off ebay it probably cost me about £150 . Haven't had any problems but they've only done about 8k mls

He might mean 5" wide at the turbo outlet flange end instead of the bore diameter of the pipe

I've been lucky enough to never have a code come up and I'm unsure if you can self code read aftermarket ecu's . Did you check the vacuum and intake systems for leaks ?

Ilike the idea of a supercharger (something different) but if I had a spare £2k I'd probably get a bigger turbo and visit to a body shop [emoji4] but I can't afford (or dare [emoji5] ) to spend anymore money on the car till spring [emoji19] And stants im trying not to make any plans for major changes to the scoob .... Honest [emoji55] But these things just seem to snowball sometimes[emoji5]

Hi and welcome [emoji6] Think they're was a member on here a while back with a low mileage bug wagon from Cambridge , I pointed him in the direction of tim farmer as he asked me if I could do his cambelt . I'll have a search and see if I can find some info edited as I found his post and it was a 05 wrx wagon not a bug

Thanks fellas the bigger spoiler just seems to block out too much of the vision in the rear view mirror[emoji19] but it does make the car look a bit different to the original silver v3 uk that I've been driving for the past 3 yrs[emoji5] So even if I do put the v3 one back on I'll probably keep my eye open for something different [emoji6] Yeah it's been a bit manic trying to do a reshell and get the car mot'd and back on the road within a fortnight . If I didn't need a van for work I'd have the scooby as a second car, which would give me much more time to fettle . Project nearly took a different direction over the weekend ...... As my vdub bud was trying to sell me a massive rotrex supercharger which is good for 500 hp [emoji16]

Done the oil and filter change can't say much about the titan pro r oil yet other than the fact it's red . Switched the v5/v6 sti front grill for my v3 uk one and prefer it tbh, as it doesn't jutt out as far . ( I might change the badge for a sti one though) quite like the change the rear spoilers made to the look of the car but it creates a 200mm blind spot right across the rear view mirror :-( So might have to swop it for the old v3 mid level one :-( On a plus side I have finally changed that one odd silver rear door handle for a black one :-D