savage bulldogs

If the code is for a cylinder 1&2 misfire it does still sound like a electrical fault . You've ilimatenated spark plugs and coilpacks so work your way back from the coilpacks . Check the plugs are clean and without and breaks in the insulation between the coilpacks and engine loom . Also check the pins are clean and insulation around the big grey engine loom plugs , one end is near airbox and the other end is near the battery/ windscreen washer bottle . It might not show the symptoms when the maf is unplugged as the ecu might back the boost off a bit due to not receiving a signal from the maf .which would indicate a weak spark as higher boost might blow out a weak spark . It could be a injector fault overfuelling and flooding the cylinders but I wouldn't expect 2 injectors on different heads to pack up at the same time . Failing that you might have to bite the bullet and book it in for a rolling road dyno /fault find (about £50) at a reputable scooby friendly dyno/auto electrician

Shame about the turbo bud , do they sell replacement cores for the vf 28 ? Or maybe a uprated billet core [emoji39] as long as you get the right version apexi it will just plug in and map [emoji6]

After looking under the bonnet of my 1st scooby I bought a set of those and a quarter drive rachet set within a month [emoji4] As I think Japanese subaru mechanics must have tiny little hands and mine are like fooking great shovels [emoji5]

As long as you've got a way to get the whole car safely high enough (front and back ) to clear the gearbox bellhousing you should be fine . Get some fresh gearbox oil as you'll loose the old stuff if you remove the prop and a new genuine turbo outlet gasket. I replaced the drive and propshaft seals , flywheel spigot bearing while I had the box off too . Other than the fact that scoobs use a "pull clutch " so you have to remove the clutch fork shaft to separate the box and engine they're pretty straightforward imo . I bought my 5 speed exedy pink box anti judder clutch from mark @ lateral performance (rated to 400hp) And all genuine gaskets and seals from importcarparts . I assume that you're currently running a tdo4 turbo ? If so a standard tdo4 won't be able to break the 300hp barrier Cheapest options for standard fitment turbos would probably be Tdo5's good for 350 hp Vf34 good for 340 hp Vf 23/24/28 good for 320 hp All approx depending on surporting mods of cause[emoji6]

Used this code last week for some millers nano drive it meant I got a 1ltr bottle free which is well handy as I run a catch can that doesn't return to sump . Cheers tim [emoji106]

They look great and pretty much the same as a uk turbo 2000 . Apart from the plastic trim half way down the sides , which would be a good idea to stop car park dents [emoji36] I assume you have a parts place that supplies rcm stuff over there as you seem to have quite a collection of rcm bit's [emoji4]

Welcome to the club What no pics [emoji4] Changing the oils and a service is always a good idea when buying a performance car imo but in your case I'd investigate the clutch issues first . As if you have to replace the clutch you'll loose most of the new gearbox oil if you remove the prop from the gearbox . Most clutches tend to slip under boost in 3rd and above if worn but not always . Does it engage 1st better if you pump the clutch a couple of times ? As this would indicate a possible slave cylinder/clutch fluid fault

My 21 year old sti arches are in fairly good nick [emoji6]

Hi n welcome to soc . Nice couple of scoobs you've got there with some choice mods too[emoji6]

Hi n welcome to soc Nice motor and its looking right at home in the forest with the wrc graphics

You would normally get a maf or map code come up if you've got a air leak , but not always and intake or vacuum leak might give a misfire symptom have you checked the y pipe under the tmic ? Have you reset the codes ? As somtimes the ecu can store a old code and still compensate for it even though you've replaced the part . Will admit it Does seem a bit strange that your getting 2 cylinders missing all of a sudden

Not really it's quite tight I use a short 3/8 converter attached (and gaffer taped) to the plug socket and a flexi rachet spanner as it's narrower than a rachet but a rachet will work with the right combo of little extensions I've gaffer taped them together cos otherwise when you put the new plugs in you sometimes can't get the plug socket out without taking the plug back out [emoji6]

No worries . Check the coilpack connectors , breaks in the insulation and arc'ing marks on ends that connects to the spark plugs . When removing the coilpacks wedge something between the coilpack body and the recess they sit in while you undo the 10mm bolt securing them in place . This stops the coilpack twisting and stops you bending or splitting the insulation that fits over the spark plugs . Also might be worth checking the inlet manifold earth , gapping the new plugs to 0.7 and taking care not to crack the porcelain when fitting the plugs .

No problem adam ,if anything you taught me something new today as I've never seen one of those black boxes before either . As for that sock even the one I kept under the bed as a teenager looked in better nick than that one [emoji5] Anyways you can't keep having school days off fitting pumps and staying in cottages. .... your supposed to be earning the money for that remap [emoji6]

Black smoke would normally indicate unburnt fuel (no spark) As you face the pulleys 1 closest left 2 closest right 3 furthest left (nearest the turbo) 4 furthest right . Have you got separate coilpacks or a single one on the inlet manifold?

Mrs drives mine so i know when its at least half a mile away [emoji4] last time I had a "fix it" wknd round mine (changed 3 clutches in 3 scoobs) Mrs said she'd "nip out and get you boys some beers" good girl I thought [emoji106] She left a dirty great number 11 on the drive when she pulled away and returned 40 mins later with a crate of beers that exploded when you opened one due to extensive cornering on the way back [emoji23]

Think there's 3 from my local forum that post on here regularly (you know who you are lol) It used to be really busy , friendly and helpful on there but now it's too quiet with only the mods posting occasionally with non related scooby stuff [emoji20] So unfortunately for you lot, your stuck with me and my airfix scoob for a while longer [emoji39]

For some reason I haven't spotted this post before but I did promise myself (and stants) that I wouldn't be taking my scoob to bits as much this year so might well be up for this [emoji39] Never done the quarter mile before either so if I did make it I'll definitely be up for that , as long as there's no noise restrictions as my classic is loud n dirty sounding[emoji4] As for why we don't get very many at the events I think it's mainly because it's a national club and we're spread about a bit .

Newage sti pedal covers fit on a classic as I've got 04 sti ones on my 94 sti so I would've thought that they'll fit . Maybe try looking for some new ones and cross reference the part numbers for both models [emoji6]

Sorry ghost just edited my post as I got the initials wrong (beer googles lol) .

I used import car parts (markicp on ebay) for 2yrs or so and found that they do give a bit of discount but only once you've used them a few times and you have to speak to them over the phone rather than using the website . I normally ask to speak to luke as he knows his scoobs and has price matched most of the of the bits for my project . Don't expect much off as they're about the cheapest for oe subaru stuff anyways

Hi and welcome to soc We've got a few members from your neck of the woods some of which have posted a video of a mountain run they take part in . Once you've picked it up and got it home pic's are quite mandatory by the way [emoji4] any immediate plans for the new scoob or just drive and enjoy ?

Unfortunately head gasket is a possibility as pushing excessive boost into a engine can cause the heads to "lift". Especially without adjusting the fuelling/timing and monitoring the afr . Scoobs do normally blow combustion into coolant somtimes causing over heating , so a coolant sniff test would probably show hydrocarbons in the water. When you said it boosted ok if you've got a boost gauge what did it peak at ? As If it went over 1.2 bar it might have been fuel cut , which might indicate it's not blown the head gasket due to it holding boost

I had a similar issue with my old sigma alarm 2 days before I was due to go on holiday . Had a local mobile alarm fitter fit a new cat 1 alarm with integrated turbo timer for £290 . Don't know where your based but I used mark @ suffolk car alarms ,couldn't recommend him enough great service , he will travel but unsure how far

Not much in it cost wise tbh Second hand Apexi ecu and controller £350 ,fit and map £250(ish) Esl'd daughter board supplied, fitted and mapped £600 . There's a few pros n cons with both types I was quite happy with my old esl'd v3 ,I'm now currently running a apexi set up on my v1sti which I can't fault either .