savage bulldogs

I've done v1 to v3 and then back to v1 (long story) so have got a few spares and pics that might be useful . I'd get a new set of o rings as if one fails you could wash a bore , carl davey or import car parts will sell genuine ones . Same with the gaskets I'm afraid, cheap ebay one's don't last , luke at "import car parts" is helpful and stocks almost everything . Guess yours looks a bit like this atm

Hi rob , some pics of how far it's been stripped and what parts you've got would be ideal . Oe parts will be for a v2 wrx which runs a phase 1 inlet and fuel rail set up . here's a old pic of my v1 phase 1 (same as v2) only major difference in this pic is the fmic and induction pipework.

Diff noise is normally louder when under load (accelerating/decelerating) if a wheel bearing is completely knackered it will make a noise in a straight line. so that would be the first I'd say to investigate further . Try cornering with the clutch dipped to see if you can hear if one side is noisier . Jack the back end up , take the handbrake off and check for top to bottom or side to side play . It could still be diff so maybe check the oil levels while it's up in the air as well . Best of luck and hopefully it will be a cheap fix

Well my scoob got sweet fa this Christmas as I couldn't decide what a wanted for her[emoji53] Did manage to rake in £300 to poke in the "scooby scraps" fund for next year malarky though [emoji41] Hope you all had a goodn fellas [emoji106]

Nice clean unabused example you've found there ;-) I fitted a cobra sports cat ,magnex cat back , fuel pump and k&n pannel filter with intake resonator delete as my first mods on my uk classic (remapped a month afterwards to 265hp) You can fit the fuel pump whenever you want as the oe fuel pressure regulator will keep the pressure at stock levels (doesn't change the fuel scale) the upgraded pump just helps to make sure that stock pressure is maintained . As for handling tweeks best buy imo is new front and rear droplinks and uprated rear arb , if it's still not stiff enough maybe try some elbach pro springs which only lower the uk's 30 ish mm to equal the stock sti ride height .

Welcome to soc Don't see enough sti fozzies imo they're a Lovely looking motor , nice choice [emoji106] Easiest way to find the diff type and ratio would be to "google" the gearbox ty... number , it's located on a white sticker on the top of the gearbox near the bellhousing. it will probably be a r180 type diff with either a uk or jdm ratio [emoji6] Have you checked the diff oil level ? or maybe try refreshing the diff oil with a quality oil of the right grade to see if it improves before buying a replacement .

Are you stalking evo drivers as well now gambit [emoji5] after changing a few vacuum pipes to try and solve my sudden boost increase . 3/4 throttle and it hits 1.38 bar @ about 3.8 k [emoji16] Only supposed to be set @ 1.1 bar, surely the newage coilpack conversion and colder air wouldn't make that much difference[emoji15]

I'm sure I could think of a couple of bit's off my scoob you can practice on , if you want I'll chuck em in the post matt Come to think of it I've always fancied a arden blue classic with white rims [emoji4]

My uk tended to understeer I found that I had to feather the "sweet spot" and hit the power as I exited .to be honest I just assumed it was a 4wd trait . Untill i read somewhere that they set them up that way from the factory , cos understeer is deemed to be easier to get out of. I'm now running wide offset wheels, elbach springs with whiteline adjustable arb, droplinks and roll center correction kit . It tends to 4w drift now but ideally I'd like a bit of oversteer so might look at getting some camber bolts and the prodrive geo set done .

I'd imagine so as they're probably a bit heavier than a impreza . the impreza sti's had 4 pots from 97 onwards and (I think) all turbo impreza's from 98 onwards . Quality pads and discs make a fair difference too but soon after my first road map (from 212 hp to 265hp ) I'd had a few [emoji90] [emoji158] moment's with the impreza 2 pots and happy shopper discs n pads the car came with [emoji6]

Makes sence not to have the injectors if you're not aiming to break the 300 hp barrier atm [emoji6] You'll be well chuffed with the difference a remap makes anyways [emoji41] Has your foz got 4 pots ? If not you'd be probably better off saving your cash for some better anchors to reign in the extra ponies [emoji4]

I was told the sti tmic flowed better but whether thats just because of the ally hard pipe and bigger bore y pipe or whether the core is different I don't know . Tbh I fitted it because i managed to "zorro" the fins on my uk turbo's tmic with the jet wash[emoji36] [emoji35] [emoji23] and I knew I could fit it without mapping . I've seen a graph for 305 hp with the 380cc but he'd upped the fuel pressure a lot and they were maxed out . Realistically about 290 hp on the 380's and 340 hp on the 440's as most mappers don't like upping the pressure on standard fuel rails , in case the pressure drops and you lean out or something leaks

Nice to see the dealer taking the time and explaining how they worked out their quote[emoji106] however I do think over £500 for parts is a bit steep as im sure 5 speed classics have a basic exedy clutch as standard(about £190 new). I bought a pink box exedy clutch kit (rated to 400hp ) for £280 . I don't dispute the amount of hours labour (took me longer to do on axle stands) and with a franchise/main dealer overheads you expect the hourly rate to be high to be honest . My local main dealer is a diamond even throws a bbq for the local subaru club with test drives and raffles , so I mean no disrespect, but Which ever way you look at it it's almost £1.5k to buy and fit a £200 clutch on a £3K car [emoji53] so unfortunately for you most people will choose the cheaper option if the cars not under warranty . All the best clive

£50 delivered or £90 delivered with the v3 sti tmic as well lol

Got some phase 1/1.5 440cc injectors which are a direct fit from v1 to v4 if you want to really treat yourself 

Yeah the rcm pump came with a sock and was just plug n play but the last walbro I bought had a much shorter sock (so I used the cars original one) and I had to splice the wires in the tank as the wires in the walbro box only had a plug one end . As for rcm give them a bell before lunch and the pump will probably be delivered tomorrow . Great service [emoji41]

No need to drain the tank just run it a bit low (under a quarter) Disconnect the battery earth Have plenty of rags ready as when you disconnect the fuel lines they'll be full of pressurised fuel . clean the area around the access hole before removing the hatch lid (so !Removed! don't drop in the tank). Carefully withdraw the complete fuel pump /gauge sender assembly and cover the hatch opening to stop fumes coming out and debris falling in. Fix the new pump to the sender assembly and once re fitted turn the ignition on and off a couple of times to prime the pump . Here's a few pics from when I fitted my last one

Think its about £500 for the premium with total value at £5k ish and 350 hp . I've never had a claim though , it's parked off road, bell'd up nicely and I only do sub 4k miles . I've spent so much time and effort rebuilding my car I drive like miss daisy ..... Well most of the time [emoji55]

Also depends on how long you've been driving a scoob and how many yrs no claims . As it cost me £200 more 3yrs ago to fully comp insure a standard uk turbo with a mainline insurance company . Now i fully comp insure a 300 +hp sti with "like for like" on £4k's worth of listed modified parts with adrain flux But I did hit 40 last year [emoji55] so probably get a coffin dodgers bonus [emoji4]

Far as I'm aware subarus "test" was to hit it with a dot punch in several places , if it didn't punch a hole it passed and if it did they replaced it free of charge I had a similar reply from my local Toyota dealers with my mum's car taken in for a steering recall and passed , month later the steering column fell of it's mountings whilst she was driving [emoji33] I kicked up a fuss about the potential injury or even fatality if she'd had been driving on the carriageway to no avail [emoji35] Threatened them with watchdog and probably due to another ongoing Toyota recall at the time, they repaired it for free

Before you take the pads out use them to gently ease the pistons back in to check nothings seized . Use something blunt and flat to make sure you don't score the disc or pad face . Hopefully a clean up and a bit of grease will sort it out

The Legacy's Definitely a lot of car for the money and either would be a contender for totb/time attack next year without lifting a spanner .

Yeah I know simon had had a some input with Damien's teams legacy . It just would have been nice to see simon's impreza win some trophies and get some more track time , as well as still having Damien flying the scooby flag next year I haven't heard any updates on whether simon's scoob had sold and hoped it was going to go to good use and not end up being broke for bits [emoji20]

Noticed Damien Bradley's time attack car up for sale [emoji53] http://racecarsdirect.com/listing/57356/worlds_most_extreme_time_attack_wide_arched_subaru_legacy.html Hopefully he's still taking part next year's time attack in a scoob . It would be really nice if it was in simon roes (jolly green monster) green monster 3.3 twin turbo'd classic

He comes across a bit grumpy (1st expression) but used to have a newage wrx as a daily driver and mapped it constantly during the 3 yrs he owned it. Think he normally charges a bit more but I've arranged a couple of rr days at his dyno and between me , my brv and a few mates have spent a fair bit of cash with him (he gets cheaper the more you used him ) Might be worth mentioning me "clive with the silver self build classic " before you ask for a quote [emoji6]