savage bulldogs

Done under all the arches as well now [emoji5] They've come up well for a 20yr old car , without any rust or flake y stone chip anywhere. I'm not a fan of underseal as when it flakes it traps moisture behind it . So i Think I'm gonna give them a coat of silver paint. I'll wipe with some thinners to degrease and supple up the stonechip a bit , which will also help the paint adhere better .

Hi and welcome to soc fella , feel free to post some pics [emoji6] Glad to hear that another classic is being saved rather than scrapped[emoji106]

added some more bits to the list ;) few pics :) autobahn fmic core condition SOLD 3" decat turbo back with 4.5" surprisingly not loud due to the 2 resonators and will polish up nicely 6 speed gearbox code sti tmic

to be honest I've never seen a 6cyl boxer engine but , I'd assume that they'd be some similarities between that and a 4cyl turbo . Are you sure you've disconnected any sensor wires or cable ties for the engine loom that might be restricting the pipes movement . Maybe this pic of a 2ltr with the inlet off will help you work out its route

I used auto glym machine cleaner , worked it in with a brush and rinsed with water , but the engine was out[emoji6] I'd suggest to maybe take the alternator off (3bolts) to keep it away from the steam could give it a wire brush/coat of autosol whilst it's off .

Nice work matt [emoji106] Sounds like you're gonna need a bit extra cash ...... To feed the chickens and goat[emoji39]

Finally started breaking the v1 so I have a few bit's off it . Tein coilovers with spanners £220 sold Boost gauge and pillar pod £15 sold Uk 3.5.4 ratio 6 speed gearbox no whines or crunches with new prop/ driveshaft seals fitted 1.5 k ago . Just the box £1350 sold Box + cradle , linkage and prop .basically everything needed to into a uk ratio classic/ newage .£1500 sold Autobahn fmic and classic fitment pipework £150 SOLD 4pot front calipers (refurbished with ss pistons and new seals) Discs and kevlar fast road pads (1.5k mls) £150 SOLD Whiteline arb and rear whiteline pigtail droplinks £120 5 speed exedy pink box anti judder stage 2 clutches (£280 new rated to 400hp) both clutches have only seen just under 2k mls so have barely been worn in, both have with skimmed standard flywheel s with new centre spigot bearings included but, i will split the kits and flywheels if needed 1 kit with thrust race bearing missing £140 1 complete kit £190 SOLD Toyosports 3" decat turbo back slight scrapes on centre resonator box but doesn't affect performance /sound £130 SOLD v3/v4 sti tmic £40 standard facelift head lights £15 facelift crystal head lights £50 facelift crystal spotlights £30 facelift crystal indicators £10 facelift crystal side repeaters £7 Classic sti carbon fibre front strutt brace £80 here's a few bit's that will be for sale once I've fitted my engine/running gear early October (hopefully) Full v3 uk interior vgc with no rips/burns ect Includes front and rear seats and door cards £60 17" speedline chronos with kumho tyres they could do with a refurb and tyres are good 6mm appart from a bit of "roundabout scrub" £150 powder coated blue v3 / v4 inlet manifold, intake pipe,throttle body, coilpack , leads engine loom ect.... basically everything needed (apart from injectors and header tank) to just bolt it on and tidy up your bay £160 Front ally droplinks to suit steel arms £20 All prices are based on collection from Ipswich Suffolk . I'll add more to the list as I find it and pics on request Cheers clive

you can buy tmic mesh to protect the fins and make it look neater . Im unsure if the under tray (seal under the scoop) is a different size on the uk to sti on the v5/v6 . So some of the listings might mention "under trays " as well

My 99 to 00 v5/v6 sti is the direct fit intercooler , bud. Sti y pipework is mostly solid ally (less prone to cracking /better flowing) . Hence why most people upgrade those at the same time and mention them in their adds [emoji6]

Welcome back bud If you don't find em drop me a pm , cos I've got a set of 440's which were flow matched by lateral 1.5k ago and a good working walbro for sale out of my phase 1 v1sti

Went outside to clear the drain channels on the shell .... ended up spending 5 hrs cleaning under the bonnet with a toothbrush [emoji5]

Now the v1 sti's engine's been re home'd t thought id remove both wings and the scuttle pannel to make sure the drain channels were clear . got a bit sidetracked and 5 hours , 2 toothbrushes and half a bottle of machine cleaner later Just need to find a product to seal the paintwork that can be sprayed on . as I don't fancy waxing and having to buff it off .

There's a bit of info on this thread http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/6050-More-boost!-disappointment/slight-happiness... about the location of the restrictor pill and sizes needed for different classics

Your welcome mate[emoji106] No problem about the speedo sensor ,I only wanted a spare in case I broke mine on removal glad it all come together and your happy with the end results [emoji41]

Sold deposit taken Thanks for all the input and interest [emoji106]

Could try checking Exhaust mounts (give it a shake) Rear droplinks (wear/ play in the bushes) and rear shocks (prone to failure on the blobeye I think) Play in the rear wheels Does it do it over bumps or corners as well ?

Just wondering if anyone has cleaned the underside of a motor and if so what they used to clean and seal it afterwards. Ideally I'd like something to just last the comming winter months. As I intend on prepping painting and polly bushing most moving parts at some point . Thanks in advance Clive

Looks loads better , nice choice [emoji106]

Cheers chap much appreciated  I've got to retro fit a mechanical speedo sensor into a 6speed soon [emoji6]

Nice to have you back adam [emoji41] Yeah I've done loads of research on the v1 sti's and my brv has owned this one for the last 3yrs . Unfortunately we broke one a while back with shoddy arches and a break in the loom (causing a intermittent fault) and that's where the engine in my v3 came from. If I hadn't have spent a lot of time and effort rebuilding my cdb I would have kept the engine in the scoob to try to keep it original as possible. I know the engine's quite old but , I'm sure the first person to hear it run will buy it as it's a sweet lump running good safe power @1.2 bar

Looks like the crack in the plug was the issue then [emoji6] Couldn't tell you the exact plug part number I use im afraid , I just know them as ngk heat 7's . Glad you've got it running right now though stu [emoji106]

I'd recommend to any one who's got the dsr wheel of to give that area a clean as well as the back of the inner arches . They've completely disintegrated on my uk [emoji19] and that was clean when I bought it 3yrs ago

I think most people run ngk7's gapped at 0.7 We're any of the plugs a slightly different colour ? If one was blacker it might indicate a misfire on a individual cylinder . Did you check for cracks in the porcelain on the plugs ? It will throw maff and (normally) map sensor code as well if there's a leak between maf (filter) and map (inlet manifold) sensors . You could try putting soapy water around the joins in the pipes and look for bubbles to indicate air leaks to eliminate that . Tbo you've checked most of the things I would have started with . Mabye nip to attowes rolling road (norwich) and get a dyno done , as he'd probably be able to diagnose the fault and you'd know if it was running safe .

I've been stripping the shell down a bit more today in order to get to the main areas that are prone to rust on classics . Bottom of the wing/ sill Rear arches/bumper bar Although the shell is uber clean for it's age ,I wanted to try to protect the underside while having it off the road . what few bit's of surface rust I found (after a clean up ) I sanded , treated and primed ready for stone chip and paint . Before After Unfortunately I won't be able to paint the arches yet ,till the engine's gone as I want some weight out of the car before I remove the coilovers. I did remove the fuel filler neck plastic cover whilst cleaning and was surprised to see how much dirt was wedged in it . No wonder my uk fuel filler neck rusted through and left trails of v power behind me like back 2 the future [emoji4] as the plastic guard fills with dirt and traps moisture rotting the neck .

Did you reset the codes before fitting the new maff ? As the ecu would probably still be compensating for faulty one