savage bulldogs

Sound's like bearing to me due to the increase in noise when that side is under load while cornering . It's easy enough to remove the rear hub, brakes and handbrake assembly but you will need to get the bearings pressed out and new ones in again (with a hydraulic press) So will probably need a garages help at some point but could save a bit on labour costs removing the hub yourself

There's a fair bit of difference between the newage wrx's and sti's other than the look of interior , exterior styling . Sti's have bigger brakes , stronger 6 gearboxes (almost handle twice the power) stronger forged engine's with sti cams , stiffer suspension . if you're intending on modifying for power imo a sti is better starting platform . On the other hand a mapped wrx will be faster than a standard sti , so really it's down to what your going to want to do to it , as plenty of wrx owners have enjoyed modding their wrx's and didn't want to just "buy" a faster car Whichever you choose just continue to be patient and have a good look about

Just caught up with dogs escapades and ... !Removed! hell " if it wasn't for bad luck you wouldn't have any luck at all " fella Hope the mrs and scoob are on the mend soon buddy . Best of luck with the back "magic" Back surgery always sound's a bit daunting but a friend of mine had 4 pins put in his back due to a old injury "setting" wrong [emoji33] 4 months after the op he was so much better he passed his second dan black belt karate grading [emoji41] Best of luck to you both . As for me and my subarus today I'll be mostly.... Assembling a reversed inlet manifold, fuel lines, engine loom ect and cleaning up phase 1 auxiliaries ready for the big week ahead [emoji6]

It's a toyo sports one There's some pics on my for sale thread (it's not been cleaned yet) but the back box will polish up nicely and it's not ovr loud due to the resonator box

I've got a full 3" decat turbo back but you'd have to have the whole thing , due to the sections being different lenght to standard systems .

Hi n welcome Can see why you were gutted about the type r it looked mint Goes to show with mechanical sympathy and good maintenance how long a scoob will last for . As for traders status im sure one of the mods will be along soon to point you in the right direction

Looks quite tidy that [emoji106] Saw this the other day http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=221552572128 Strong money but looks sweet

Hi n welcome to soc Un sure as to whether you're vt computer or boost gauge is giving the correct figures tbo but o.8 bar is normally standard boost on most models so I don't think there's much in it . You might get a more equal reading once the actuator's sorted as you say . Mapping wise ecutek licence and remap is normally the cheapest option for your model and most people I know use "jolly green monster" (simon roe) . Hes tried n tested and will either come to you (road map) or a local dyno (if you want a print out) I'd imagine with those mods you'd see 260 hp ish with the tdo4 and cats in situ

No probs gambit, I read it as the admin fees would be higher for single tickets anyways[emoji6] Just didn't want you to hold out for me till the last minute for the sake of a few quid as for you being sick, I will admit I do think your well and truly overdue a "check up from the neck up " bud [emoji39] [emoji4] And stants I can bring a clutch but doubt I'd fancy taking a scoob to bit's for a while after next weeks shinagans [emoji5]

Don't hold everyone else back till the last minute for my benefit bud .As I don't know if I'll have either of the scoobs up n running by Friday the 3rd . they could both be in bits still [emoji15] I have booked the whole of next week off work to increase my chances and have got all the gaskets/parts sitting here already [emoji4]

Gonna be Cutting it fine [emoji16] Cars booked in for mot and mapping on friday the 3rd, so won't be able to buy a ticket until Friday evening and that's only if all goes well next week[emoji120] I know the cut off date Is the 3rd but there a particular time on Friday I've got to buy the ticket by ?

Cheers jay, hopefully it should hold the rust at bay for a while . Made a bit more progress with the inlet today by stripping down the v1 sti's inlet . cleaned and checked the engine loom for damage/breaks in the insulation Cleaned and polished the throttle body and icv Stripped , cleaned and painted the fuel lines The ally oval blanking plate on the top of the inlet is for a 5th injector [emoji6] so I found myself looking into nos kits last night [emoji48] but decided to tackle that at a later date [emoji6]

Details are on my for sale thread but pull up the 5 speed exedy pink box clutch part numbers and cross reference them with the foz one's . As I'm not 100% sure about compatibility and don't want to sell you something that don't fit (if I'm wrong)

I'd steer away from paddle clutches for a daily driver as you'll burn them out trying to pull away sensibly .as they're made for just "dumping" off the clutch rather than pulling away Just so happens I've got a couple of 5 speed exedy pink box anti judder stage 2 clutches for sale , which are good for 400hp with oe peddle feel [emoji6]

I stripped the Inlet as it had to be sanded back as the paint had started to flake [emoji19] masked all machined surfaces and After 2 hrs sanding I sprayed it with adhesion premotor (it's clear in colour) Then enamel primer Colour coat Got to let it dry for 24 hrs [emoji19] before I can flatten it off and give it the final coats of lacquer . So hopefully mid week I'll start to build the inlet up with the phase 1 fuel lines , engine loom, vacuum lines ect... of the sti inlet

No worries mate we all had to learn about scoobs at some point ,I'm still learning new stuff after 3yrs of fettling[emoji6] Lift the passenger side front footwell carpet , remove the 10mm bolts and look under the kick pannel (thats where the ecu is ) As for turbo identification here's a tdo4 showing the id markings (tdo5 markings will be in the same area) What does the boost gauge read when at full boost ? And I agree with matt that you should do a oil n filter change and book a dyno session to make sure it's running right . As it's best to have a good safe starting point before modifying .

Seems the shells a v4 sti due to the model code and having the yellows point's to a sti engine. Hopefully it's just had a turbo switch although, other than cost , I don't see why you'd fit a smaller turbo . Check on the cold side of the turbo there should be a code like Tdo4 HL or tdo5 HL . What other mods has it got Ecu , boost gauge, zorst , dump valve ect ? Standard ecu's can't be mapped on the v3/v4 so here's a few options (cheapest first )to google . Esl daughter board Apexi Simtec Alcertek (simtec updated) Syvecs If it is a tdo4 I'd look for something like a front entry tdo5 or vf 35 and fit that before the expensive of re mapping

Front and rear calipers, disc's and pads SOLD . Full payment received so they'll be in the post monday josh [emoji106]

Sorry when I said "standard" I ment the turbo as there's a few andy forest hybrid Tdo4's out there that will spool quick and break the 300 hp barrier . And by surporting mods I mean as matt's listed above plus free flowing exhaust system, headers and upipe .

Im unsure about the foz hub set up tbo but the higher the E.T number the less they'll stick out of the arches (if that makes sense lol) so I don't think they'll fit your foz mate especially if 55's cause issues rubbing on the strutts and tyres are 215's

When mapped with surporting mods Standard Tdo4's are good for 290hp ish . Tdo5's 16 g's are good for 350 hp mark. Tdo5's a straight swap but any change in turbo model or injector size will need to be mapped in What colour are the injectors ? Yellows 440cc (340 hp) Greys 380cc (290 hp ) Did you check the model code

It shouldn't be running a tdo4 that is only normally fitted to wrx's and uk turbo's . Has it got 4 pot front/2 pot rear calipers ? Braided lines are worth having (if you haven't got them already) as they improve pedal feel and maybe a "brake stopper"

Cheers she's like my shadow (not that im short n stocky lol) Shells starting to go back together now but can't start fitting to much as I need the v3 on the road for as long as possible [emoji19] Had the (untidy looking) ex andy forest race car reverse v1 inlet and alternator relocation bracket turn up today [emoji4] So stripping , prepping and painting this will be the next sub project

Tbo I'm unsure If yours has got a tdo5 or vf 22 either way both will see you to about 340 hp (with a remap and supporting mods) That's about the (reliable) limit of the classic drivetrain anyways. I always do a oil and filter change prior to going on a dyno. imo a good dyno operator will check over prior to the run and listen to det cans during it (cutting the run short if it's not running right) So i think it's safer that flooring it down a slip lane .

Couldn't tell you what the quality is like tbo , so I'm not recommending it . http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=351117810206&alt=web Just looks like it's been tig welded to a reasonable standard, magnetic drain plug and it's under £40 . Yes matt I did think about making one but I've got loads to do and haven't got the time[emoji19] I have already asked the seller what dia the "breather" outlet tube is and he said they're all 15 mm . So it should fit , just need to work out where I'll fit it and how much 15mm I/d silicone hose to buy