savage bulldogs

No it's a engine out job im afraid . As the block halves have to be split to get to the shells/crank

Try resetting the ecu , turn the alarm off and disconnecting the battery earth for about 10 mins , as it might still be compensating for a faulty code . As gambit said check for leaks in boost and vacuum pipes . spray brake cleaner around any pipework that's got a vacuum (suck side of the turbo ect...) and the idle will rise if it sucks in the cleaner [emoji6] And soapy solution around the pipework with positive pressure , you'll see bubbles if it's leaking . Leads and plugs might be worth a shout if you don't know when they were last changed . Glad the maf made a bit of difference and best of luck bud [emoji106]

someone who knows a bit more about mapping might well disagree, I'm just unsure how much the ecu is capable of adjusting the fueling and timing to keep things running safely . what year uk turbo is it ?

It's difficult to answer why the boost pressure has decreased because it's possible the dump valve might have been leaking giving you false readings of 1.3 bar in the first place. I would be a bit dubious of upping the boost as the original remap fueling was set up to dump intake air and now that air is still in the system with the dumpvalve blanked . Maybe check what ecu ,board or software it's running and arrange a map tweek with a mapper that deals with your ecu at local dyno . Would be cheaper in the long run , as if you get it wrong rebuilds ain't to cheap [emoji6]

I didn't think that changing the centre section 0.5" in dia would've made so much difference as I thought that the 2.5" system didn't restrict until 400hp . What type of mappable ecu are you running ? If they disconnected the battery could it have switched to a low boost map ? Is there any change in spool, does it hit 1 bar any later ?

Still got the browse function on my s3 Samsung but it didn't work last time I tried to find a old post so I had to trawl through all my "participated" threads to find it [emoji53] I have to use it most of the time otherwise I have to book the laptop 3wks in advance or bribe my kids to get online [emoji5] definitely think Tapatalk makes uploading pics loads easier , which is a bonus if you're a pic !Removed! like myself And I normally leave it on " timeline " to just see the new posts through out the whole forum

there's not much difference in the power output / performance between the bug sti and 2ltr blobeye sti they both have a stronger 6 speed gearbox and r180 hub/ brake set up too ,I'm unsure what models have dccd though. Jdm versions will have shorter gearbox ratio's and some of the later jdm blob sti's have equal length headers (no burble) and possibly better pistons/rods . with the right wheels and detangoed lights I like most things scooby [emoji4]

I'm unsure about the compatibility tbh but if ever I need to find out if somethings compatible I cross reference the part numbers on a online subaru parts site (like importcarparts) [emoji6]

I run elbach pro springs with the standard uk turbo strutts they're progressive rate , so not too stiff on the straight but stiffen up under load (in the corners) Think they lower the uk turbo and wrx 30 mm to the height of a standard sti Pic of mine

Sorry stants the original ones that held them on my uk turbo looked like twiglets (rusty as fook ) and I stripped the threads taking them off [emoji55] Glad they've cured your front end "twang" [emoji6] I bought them for the same reason and once fitted swear they made a difference to the "turn in" body roll

Most mappers up the boost during a remap so if it's running stock boost it's probably not been remapped already. If it's got a standard ecu the most common software used on a blobeye would be ecutek so if it has been mapped you should have paperwork , as you need to buy a ecutek "licence" in order to use their software to change the parameters on the standard ecu . I'm not a fan of manual boost controllers unless set up by the mapper whilst he's tweeking the fuelling , ignition timing and wastegate control during a remap . Even then I wouldn't use the controller to turn the boost up (as it would be set up for max safe boost during the remap ) But just to turn the boost down for every day /long distance driving . Imo get a few mods together and fit those just before you're booked in for a remap

I don't know much about the new sti's spec but has it got a equal length exhaust manifold? As they fitted equal length manifolds to a certain year of jdm blob eyes and they lost all of the "scooby burble" and sounded like a (normal) inline 4 cylinder set up. Cos it's the exhaust gasses hitting each other in the unequal headers that cause the burble not the flat 4 configuration [emoji6]

I've only ever bought one item of them to be honest a classic sports cat and I found it to be well made and a good fit. is it volume , tone or type of sound your after improving ?

Payment received with thanks[emoji106] I'll let you know a eta once I get it posted[emoji6]

Ok joe I'll let you know when I get home if the payment gone through and once it's posted I'll pm you a eta , bud

I've pm'd you my pay pal addy the best way I can think of being fair is for me to send it and if it doesn't work send it back and I'll refund you £30 (other £5 covers postage my end) . Worst case scenario is we're a fiver down each . All the best clive

Shame you're all so far away from suffolk as I've got a spare classic shell (without suspension or mot) , use of a recovery truck for beer vouchers(or a thrash on a track) engine hoist ect and a quite a few spare parts kicking around [emoji39] But nowhere dry and warm to work on a car [emoji53]

Sorry stants I forgot you'd asked me a question [emoji5] no mate, one owner in Japan and I'm the 4th owner in the UK . I do like the idea of having it (at least) looking standard as it's a 20 yr old car with a few tweaks but I quite like the look of it atm, so still a bit unsure whether to preface it or not [emoji15]

I think cobra sports are in Sheffield I'm fairly sure they make custom stuff too

Sorry joe I forgot I'd posted on here . I don't really like selling things I can't vouch 100% for and it's been sat for at least 18 months . If you're really stuck and can't find one elsewhere I can chuck mine in the post for £35

Think there's a "how 2 " sticky thread on s.c in tech section for fitting a oil pressure gauge . Although it's for newage it's probably a bit more explanatory than my ramblings and 2 dodgy pics [emoji5] Glad you've sussed it bud [emoji106]

Were the fogs working with just the boost gauge connected ? I'd disconnect the other gauges and double check any fuses starting with 10 amp (normally red) preferably switch each fuse with a spare good fuse of the same ampage or check current passes through them with the multi meter (as visually it's sometimes hard to spot a break) As it sounds like you've earthed something out mate , Cos if that circuit is designed to light two big fogs and a ciggy lighter couple of gauge lights shouldn't blow the fuse .

Sorry to hear that the rot has set in so deep and cutting your losses might be the best call [emoji20] But at least it sounds like you're sticking with subaru [emoji6]

Do the fogs only work with the main lights on ? my scoob hasn't got any fogs so i don't know but my vans fogs don't work with just the sidelights you have to have the headlights on

I would've thought so as the ciggy lighter would have a higher rate fuse in it's circuit . I haven't had any issues with mine but I've only got one gauge running. Keep a spare fuse or two in the glove box or Just don't use your ciggy lighter at night[emoji39] Sounds like they're electronic sensors by the description, I didn't take any specific pics when I fitted my sensors First pic shows oe oil pressure sensor and bung for oil temp The oil pressure is behind the alternator (on cars without ac) just remove the belt ,loosen the alternator and swing it out of the way . Remove the plug and undo the top brass bit (not the nut with the hole in) fit the new sensor and run the wires back to the gauge . You can just see the silver oil temp bung behind the black pipe and gold vertical bolt in first pic . The bung is a pita to get out so removing as much as possible to gain better access is best ,Mabey do this when you upgrade your turbo as most of the bits will be out of the way [emoji6] Second pic shows both electric sensors fitted but note the brass bung with the hole in (from stants kit) is fitted first and the electronic temp sensor (with a white wire attached to it ) is fitted into the brass bung with the hole in Dunno if that makes sense but best of luck bud [emoji4]