savage bulldogs

Can't say from personal experience as I've never used boost unless my car has been mapped for it's current set up. Apart from during mapping sessions then they'll normally turn the boost down to get the fuelling right, before feeding the boost back in then it normally comes in a bit sooner with a bigger punch [emoji12] I don't know much about matching upipe sizes to headers and turbo inlets tbh , so can't tell you the right bore size upipe. I do know gas flow and pressure have a fairly big affect on spool / power my classic with Toyosports headers and bigger bore upipe made 307 hp 260 flb mapped Switched to gruppe headers with smaller bore 3 bolt upipe 347hp 330flb Same car , no other mods , same mapper and same dyno it also hit 1bar @ 700 rpm sooner.

If it's the same turbo it could be a gasket leaking or the aftermarket upipe bore size difference . As if they're to big it can make the turbo spool later due to a drop in exhaust gas pressure . Might be able to lessen the lag once mapped in to allow for the freeer flowing de catted upipe

Just read the first post and the bit about tax band being sorted by co2 emissions isn't entirely accurate (unfortunately) As I bought a 05 plate 1300 cdti van for work 3 yrs ago as i thought it cheap on fuel and tax . First time I taxed it got charged over £200 for the year [emoji15] A mate of mine also has a 04 plate 1300 cdti only got charged £125 for the year even though they've got the same engine [emoji53] Apparently my van can carry 2 tonne (gross weight) and his is only 1700 (gross weight) , so even with the same c02 emissions it's a different "gross weight" taxation class. So my 80 hp diesel van costs about £20 less to tax than my £330 hp v powered classic

think the joiners are called "scotch blocks" normally blue in colour . Do you know if the oil temp gauge is electrical ir mechanical ? Does it have wires on the oil temp sender (bit that goes in the bung with a hole in) Or do you have a pipe that has to go all the way from oil temp sender to oil temp gauge ? Have you got 3 other wires the same on all gauges ? If so think they should be Earth... either fit this to a earthed bit of metal behind the dash or scotch block it to another earth Live ... find something that only works with the ignition (ciggy lighter ) on and "scotch" into that Lights .... "scotch" into something that only works when you turn the lights on . On my preface classics I used the light around the ciggy lighter . If you get stuck stu give me a text bud

Yeah that's for the sti's to attach their factory fitted boost gauge [emoji6] You should be able to take a ignition live from the back of the ciggy lighter and the "lights on" power from the light on the ashtray/ciggy lighter suround

Yeah my old v3 uk had preface dash , clocks and bumper with facelift bonnet lights n grill . Think the v4 has the preface bumper as well and it was v5 onwards that had full facelift with new grill and bumper[emoji6] The fugly (fooking ugly) steering wheel on my v3 was one of the first things that got upgraded [emoji4]

Thats a V4 uk turbo interior [emoji6]

Original genuine subaru gaskets should be fine as your headder outlet and turbo inlet will be stock size . my brv used to have a cheap upipe that would only seal if you put 2 gaskets in , even then it would blow the guts out of the gaskets after a few months [emoji53] But he was running 1.2 bar

Number 3 made me grin [emoji4] Looks like a couple of paper mashie seals harpooned and stuck on with yellow electrical tape [emoji23] I wish I'd have took a pic of the saxo I saw over the weekend .... it had six 5" tail pipes poking out the back and a BGW (Big !Removed! Wing) escort cossie style [emoji51]

Ipswich , so a fair way away I would sell it to you as it worked fine when I disconnected it but it's been in a plastic bag in the shed for about a year .

My 97 uk turbo ran a purple label maff I've got a spare where abouts are you cos you're welcome to try it if suffolk isn't to far away

Duncan Grahames website is called "race dynamics " He fitted and mapped my original v3 esl

Wouldn't like to say if would need re bleeding ,I've never had a airlock and my engine's been in and out 6 times But a lot of people do seem to have problems with airlocks . I'd be tempted to make 100% sure the join is the culprit . release the jubilee clip at the offending end and move it clear of the leak .dry the area with kitchen towels . As the plastic take off on classic rads tend to crack or the jubilee clip sits it can wear the hose . And yeah They do get a bit of "fury !Removed!" around the joins of the rad to ally block coolant pipes, so it could well be the issue

Hi n welcome Nice clean original looking classic you've got there [emoji106]

Who did the last plug change bud ? Second hand coilpacks are cheap enough about £50 for all 4 So it Does depend on the extent of the damage to the threads really , best of luck, fella

Blew the Spark "plug " out ? Or did it blow a boost hose off (cos they normally make a pop sound )

I had a hid kit on my classic which we're nice and bright but whilst it was off the road for about 8 months they keeled over [emoji53] So I had to switch back to h4 on the morning of the mot to get it passed . the first night run I did I realised that I missed the hid as the standard h4's were like candles [emoji33] The osram nightbreakers and led sidelights seem much better but if somebody does know a way of making h4 fitment bulbs a bit brighter still id be interested too

I'd imagine that the turbo timer would be wired into something to let it know how hot the engine is in order for it to adjust the duration it over runs for . If it's not running hot because its low on coolant , being driven hard ect .... I'd mabey try to disconnect the turbo timer and let it idle for a bit before switching it off .just to take it out of the equation until your running issue is resolved. What model is it joe ? uk , wrx ect

Yes stu as they don't draw much power [emoji6]

Yeah my 94 classic is running 6 speed gearbox/slave , reversed inlet manifold and front mount intercooler so will look a bit different [emoji6] But the return spring should still be attached to the clutch fork and a bracket near the bellhousing .(by all means chuck a pic up anyways) I dried the slave and flexible feed pipe and drove it for a day . I then found that it was the flexi pipe leaking rather than a issue with the slave . I had a spare slave and flexi pipe so fitted them both and blead the system /changed the fluid .... done about 500 miles since without any issues [emoji106]

Says they come with fitting kits and oil and water sensors but I'd imagine that you would still need to buy the bung with a hole in it to fit the oil temp sensor they supply. as it's a subaru specific part made to locate the oil temp sensor above cylinder number 3 (hottest cylinder next to the turbo) most kits are for a wider range of makes so I had to buy "stants" kit just for the brass bung with a threaded hole in it, see when they turn up . you could always start off with the easier boost gauge and sort the power , earth , lights and fit the pod while waiting for other bits if they're not in your kit [emoji6]

It's a bit dark so sorry for the pic quality but you can just see the spring attached between the fork and little grey bracket, which will be under the throttle body /tmic on yours .

Have you got a link to the exact one's you bought stu ? If it's electronic like my depo 4 in 1 the sensor end is fairly easy Oil pressure is the black plug at the front which fits in place of the oe sender Oil temp is the white wire at the rear left ,make sure the area around the bung is clean before removing original bung (you don't want !Removed! dropping in the oilway above cylinder 3) fit the brass "ferrule" (nut with the hole in stants kit) and then screw the oil temp sender into the ferrule . Make sure you do it in that order as the sender hole in the ferrule is sometimes tapered to aid a seal Boost just needs vacuum and you've probably got a blanked take off on the inlet . If you haven't got a spare take off ,Have a look at vacuum hose kits on ebay as they're not to expensive and include a few t pieces and various size hoses . Inside just earth , ignition live and light exciter most of which can be taken from the clock,like stants said 

Although I'm not 100% I think that the only major difference in engine parameters between the ppp wrx and standard wrx is the sports cat ,which would allow the gasses to escape quicker . Cams , injector size and turbo remain the same. Maybe once it's fitted stay off (hard) boost until you've had a chance to run the car on a dyno (about £ 50 for a power run/map check) for piece of mind before "giving it the beans" while running a different map [emoji6]

Sorry stu I thought I mentioned face book pages[emoji39] It's a closed group on Facebook called "sell yor subaru& parts uk " so the link probably won't work unless you're already a member https://m.facebook.com/groups/493405154066320?view=permalink&id=795810397159126&refid=18&ref=bookmark Don't know any history about the seller or the turbo , just that it looks genuine and was £60 posted