savage bulldogs

Matts link has everything needed [emoji106]

Front 4 pot calipers just bolt on but you'll need bigger dia discs . Rear 2 pots have to have conversion brackets ,to move the calipers away from the centre of the hub. Which allows you to fit the bigger dia rear discs , the bigger discs foul on the rear splash guards so you have to remove them . Old discs off Splash guards removed and brackets fitted I bought my 2 pot rear calipers with newage wrx 160 rear discs (off a mate ) and new pads and the conversion brackets from alyn @ as performance ,google and phone alyn as he's website doesn't list everything he sells

To fit 2 pot rear calipers you have to remove the rear splash guards, fit conversion brackets and bigger dia discs . Have a look on my build thread there's a few pic's of the conversion on my 97 classic

auto boxes are witchcraft and my knowledge is very limited im afraid . Only things that spring to mind would be to get oil grade advice (from tim @opie oils) as a change in grade may help . Or speak to a tuner about mapping as I know that certain subaru auto box gear changes can be adjusted via a remap . Can't remember the name of the tuner , but there is one on here that had some feedback regarding quicker auto box gear changes .

There's quite a few places that do a full geometry set up , but you'd have to google to find a place local to you .

You might be able to see inside the hub "hole" and work out the position that the point of the oval was originally in . And yeah I normally scribe a line on the hub arm or transfer the mark off the old hub onto the new one . Or just get it geo'd afterwards as I've heard that the prodrive geo set up is quite a improvement over standard geo anyways [emoji6]

As you look at the two bolts holding the strutt to the hub the top bolt has a oval shank passing through the hub . So the bolt head must be marked so the point of the oval shank position isn't changed on reassembling . On classics the bottom bolt is standard type shank (acts as a pivot) and the top bolt position adjusts "camber" (how parallel the tyres sit to the road)

On classics its the top strut to hub bolts . As their hub centric , basically "cam like" to allow geo adjustment

Well done ash some nice figures there [emoji4] Hitting 300 hp @ 4k on the rollers makes for a fast road car [emoji33] [emoji16] [emoji12]

Added strut brace to the list And here's a pic of the tein coilovers and spanners

I've got a full set of brakes for sale which had ample stopping power for my brvs 350 hp classic . Godspeed drilled n groved discs and kevlar fast road pads all round (done under 1.5k mls) Refurbished 4 pots with stainless steel pistons and single pot rears (with vented discs) £220 + pp

Glad your firing on all 4 now . I always use attowes rolling road for any tuning , both clive and dan know their stuff [emoji106]

I agree tlag you clean 1 bit and it makes the rest look filthy [emoji5] The inner arches look in better condition than the bodywork now [emoji15] 20yrs has taken its toll on the outside , but im hoping I can take care of that at a later date . Just thought I'd make the most of having the shell off the road and in bit's anyways

That's the only thing I dislike about painting stuff.... the stripping, de greasing and preparing . Quite enjoy putting shiny stuff together[emoji5] Saying that I've just bought a reversed v1 inlet and alternator relocation bracket[emoji39] Both need a lick of paint (glutton for punishment I know) but I keep telling myself and the wife..... "whats the point in fitting a standard inlet , when ill have to take it off to fit a flipped one at some point " saw your update gary when do you think you'll have your's up and running

Get a coolant sniff test done if they find hydrocarbons in the coolant it's definitely gone Did you check that it's not slipped a cam tooth on the bank that's got low on compression . Are you getting any "blow by" ?gasses passing the pistons Pressurising the sump. You'd get a excessive "puff" when removing oil filler cap/dipstick if this was the case .

Looking sweet fella [emoji106] I'm so gutted I haven't made any shows this year [emoji19]

Well the dog hasn't helped me much again this weekend :-) but after a lot of preparation I finally feel like I've achieved something by finishing the rear inner arches .

I use importcarparts for all my gaskets ect.. I suppose a standard full gasket set , bottom end shells and head bolts and cambelt kit wouldn't give you much change from £ 1k . As I personally wouldn't reuse any of the above if splitting the block . Headsets will be a bit cheaper and some people do reuse the head bolts but if the cambelt rollers and tensioner are original I'd add a full cambelt kit into the equations .

Sound's like a v4 to me It depends on budget and how much work you can do yourself (to keep costs down) As I've seen quotes for £1,300 from some garages just to do head gaskets . You could buy the parts and pay for the machine work needed to fully rebuild yours for about the same cost , just depends on your skill set and timescale . as with all second hand engine's you have to take the seller's word for it's condition . Unless buying from someone trusted or hearing it running . Tuff choice and best of luck bud

Do you know what version yours is ? As it might fall into the v4 or v5 dates V5/v6 (late 98 till 00) have a different inlet pattern to earlier scoobs but ,im unsure about the engine loom sensor plug compatability. I know that 93 (v1) to early 98 (v4) engine's heads share the same inlet stud pattern . So you just fit the loom ,ecu inlet/auxiliaries maf ect .. of the version scoob the engine's going into As the plugs for maf , idle control valve ect .. and the fuel rails/ inlet phase are different from v1/v2 to v3/v4 Head gaskets are a engine out job so I'd either fully rebuild it or source a good second hand v1 to v4 long engine . As you'll be miffed if the bottom end goes after you've done the 1 headgasket and put it back together .

Fmic sold ,nice to meet you Joe took a pic of the recently refurbished 4 pots and godspeed discs /kevlar pads £150 for the lot SOLD

What little surface rust that's been found I've sanded back and treated with rust killer . then gave the area a coat of zinc heavy rust killer primer . Still struggling with the apexi hand controller hand book , tbo it might as well be in Japanese atm [emoji5] But I have decided to keep the 2011 sti seats , momo steering wheel , whiteline bump steer kit ,gt spec slipjointed headers and possibly the bigger boot spoiler [emoji4]

I see , I was running mafless on the old engine so just used the old mafless map , 380's and actuated boost to Run in . Have you tried spraying brake cleaner around each join (1 by 1) and listening for a rise in idle ? And how are you getting on with your back , any better ?

Scoobs do tend to pressurise the coolant (rather than mix oil n water) due to the large waterways in the block around the bore sleves. A coolant sniff test would out rule headgasket Couldn't tell you if that's a lower than average compression reading I'm afraid (give it a google maybe) I'd double compression check the weaker bank (as you well know) the plugs a pain to get to Have you checked the timing belt /tensioner condition ? It might have slipped a tooth on a cam on that bank . hope it's something that's not to costly , best of luck fella

Nice work [emoji106] Are you running maffless now tlag ? As mine idles like a bit like that , but was told it was because it's only running off the map sensor now