savage bulldogs

I'll be the first to admit , I'm out of touch with the cost of garages labour, running costs . As you know I do everything myself on the scooby and was a bit surprised that a oil n filter cost me £100 to get done on the a4 20t daily this week . But I don't work on the daily or caddy workhorse, if I can avoid it I do lol

Yeah I know that there's supporting mods and labour but I still I think it would be a lot closer to £10k than £20 k ,bud . Did both the engines you had built by scooby clinic cost £15k each 🤔 He's already got heads ,avcs plumbed in ,a 6 speed and r180 drivetrain capable of running 500hp. . I know parts wise it's only about £2k for a 600 hp plus bottom end . So find £18k a lot of money for turbo ,injectors, fmic ,headers ,mapping and labour 😉 Either way I wasn't having a moan about clinic or their pricing, tidgy lol . just that it's worth getting a few quotes from other reputable engine builders /tuning companies before handing over your hard earnt 😉

Having a aftermarket ait is probably why it's unplugged , as the ECU is able to read the air temperature . Not quite as good as having the atmospheric pressure as well but a ait does help with maf less fuel trims

If it's a 2ltr .... The limit of your current engine is about 450hp being a semi closed deck factory forged ej207 . So really just turbo ,injectors and a sports /de cat then remap will get the engine running over 400 hp . If it's a 2.5 ltr youd need a stronger block type and better pistons plus above to be safely over 400hp . They're are loads of options of companies to use for building engines but personally I'd try getting a quote elsewhere. As £20k seems very excessive and I'd imagine you could get a 500hp engine built and most of the supporting mods , for around half that quote (around £10k) Tbh if I couldn't build blocks myself there's only 3 companies I'd let build a engine for me ... Alyn @ As performance Mick @Rm performance Martyn @ engine tuner No disrespect to any other companies I haven't listed but I've dealt with the 3 above and trust their judgement, knowledge and workmanship above anyone else's

Do you know when it was last serviced ? If not it might be a good idea to change /clean and re gap the spark plugs , change/clean the air filter and maybe clean the maf sensor

Sorry bud , didn't spot this post 1st time. That's a barometric sensor , used to measure atmospheric air pressure, so the ECU knows the density of the air coming into the engine to adjust fuelling. What type is the "new ecu" ? As most mappers tend to still leave that sensor connected to help with fuel trims

Well the bores might clean up but the piston crown edges have a few heavy scores , the original honing Marks are all there ,without any sign of uneven wear or excessive wear . it looks like it was running well then maybe debris ,from drilling out the snapped inlet manifold stud last year or a recent drop in oil pressure (at the top of the pistons) is to blame . As oil pressure readings and levels haven't changed and the car was running well but hey every cloud and all that .... As I've decided to get a thrust conversion done, to change the center thrust early cdb to rear thrust, so I can use the later stronger nitrate crank😉 Then was going to buy some 4032 450 hp rated pistons , as the turbo and injectors are sub 400hp rated anyways🤔 But then i had always liked the idea of a 2.1 stroker 🤔🤔 And ended up ordering a 2.5 ltr niteride crank ,ACL bearings and mahle 2186 750hp rated stroker forged pistons 😊 Doubt I'll ever use the bottom end to its 750hp potential or even the arp's 500hp hp rating but hey ..... These things do tend to snowball 😋

And yes jay most things I do to the scoob tend to snowball , normally by choice though 😂

I tend to only use the wrist pin access holes for one bank ,then unbolt the end caps off the crank for the two pistons that are still attached . So block split and one half removed . Crank ,mains and big end bearings all look good by I will be replacing the 26 year old crank this time . it's all ready to take to pat tomorrow for a check over . I'll bring it back and remove all the three bond though .I'll take it back again once I have the new pistons, so we can measure them and know what size bore we need with clearance added .

Made a bit more progress with the engine this week , stripped the old inlet , watercrossover pipe ect off the long block . Although the brush on etch primer /hi temp paint has lasted well , it has chipped/flaked in places and it makes sense to clean it up with the old heads still on 😉 About a hr later I'm starting to think ... I did about another hour with the wire wheel after this pic but after cleaning the dust off the block , I'm pretty much gonna have to repaint the whole thing 🙄 I'd lightly ported ,knife edged the center separation and polished the inlet ports on the v1sti heads , so a bit of a shame I'll be using new casings . Once I was happy the block and shed was as dust free as possible I decided to pop one of the heads off and see how well the bores looked And .....although the scratches in the bore walls look bad the worst ones you can only just feel with your finger nail . I do try to keep costs down but dont do "corner cutting " so will now completely strip the short block , mic up the mahles and bores to see if I can get away with a hone and new rings 🤞 Either way it's already cost me a meal out with the wife ,to break the by by budget news . If i can get away with a hone then that's good but if i can't ,then i need to decide whether to just buy 93mm pistons Or go the whole hog with a thrust conversion, 2.5 crank and stroker pistons and build a 2.1 stroker Wife didn't take the news to bad So I'm gonna have to order more parts now 🙄🤔😊

my v1 sti hasn't got air bags or abs 😊 I think the ra's or v2sti's dont have airbags either but early UK limited editions and maybe some WRX's will though . I know my old v3 UK had a airbag but unsure if the Jdm's of the same age did tbh

I'm still running side feeds atm Jay , there's a few sub £500 options but they're either unknown or cheap ish brands . Think I'll eventually get some phase 2 440cc's and get them re sized but for now my £120 565cc nissan injectors (with the tab filled off so they fit ) will do lol

My 565cc injectors will probably hold it back a bit but hopefully the cams/valvetrain will help spool and allow me to raise the rev limit to 8k . My cars never been about big numbers as I'm to tight to spend £2k + on injectors and turbo but the journal core billet 20g surprised both me and Clive attowe how well it spooled . So hopefully it will be a bit more responsive.

Looks like my turbo core might take a little longer to get here 😥 , through no fault of arashi ...... but because I decided to upgrade the core to a tdo5 20g billet wheeled ball bearing core . Which will make the same (if not more ) power but spool much quicker. Can't wait to see what difference the more aggressive cams and better spooling core will make . Just hope the wife doesn't spot all the boxes of car parts turning up 😂 ...

I haven't used them myself but know a few people on other forums that have . I just saw them put a post up saying there was 2x V2 sti ra's , a v2 sti 555 and a v2 wrx vlimited going up for auction soon . Might be worth contacting them to get a idea of process and total price once in the uk and registered 😉 https://www.jdmauctionwatch.com Think you'll find a classic a much more raw car to drive compared to bug onwards 😊 All the best with the search , mate

Bjeesus that's a big snail lol , bay look much better too bud 👍

Think it depends what it's for, daily ,summer /weekend car or investment. If its investment then sti's, ra's , limited version and type r's, in rust free stock condition seem to be going up on value . Most uk cars do have rust issues but that makes the clean ones worth keeping hold of too imo . Seen Rb5's , Mcrae's ect starting to rise in price lately too . If you intend on modifying it , I'd probably get a clean wrx shell and mod as you go . As you never really get your money back on mods and probably just end up making the resale harder not being stock . Think there's a few on here that have imported cars , personally I'd use a recommended importer . So there's someone reliable looking at the cars over there and recommending the ones to bid on . Rather than someone bidding on a car online that they haven't seen with your money . @david1972 has imported a few lately 😉

Don't get me wrong, it would've been nice if the first one hadn't popped it's seals but you can't moan at getting a new replacement core , without having to ask 😎 Had a big box of oe and rcm goodies turn up today , big thanks to Alyn at Asperformance for taking the time to go through my order on the phone and posting it all out so quickly 👍 Looks like another busy weekend ahead in the scooby scraps shed 😊

Knew someone running 750hp on a standard 6 speed gearbox but never knew they'd take 1,100 hp .😊

Seeing as I'm hopefully not touching the bottom end I'm gonna be stripping the engine down in the scooby scraps shed. So I don't want to have inlet and oilways open for long , as the shed is nowhere near as clean as the wifes kitchen table 😊 First impressions is that it's not got any major leaks ,just a p.s fluid leak and small amount of cam cover weapage, which isn't bad for 8yrs and 60k miles 😎 It took a good 3 hrs to remove the inner 2 exhaust manifold nuts but the grouppe headers were second hand when my brother fitted them 9 years ago , so hopefully they'll clean up with a grinder . I'll be using the original v1 metal cam pulleys on the v4sti heads and fitting them with rcm headgaskets, full early timing belt kit (hydraulic tensioner), new water pump and new oe gaskets. So I stripped the long block back but have left the old inlet manifold on to keep the engine sealed , which left it looking like this at sunday lunchtime . Although I was a bit miffed about the turbo popping its seals, as it was performing well for a 20g on a 2ltr . It's possible that I was sent a less restrictive banjo bolt and that's what caused the oil to blow by the core . Sometimes I think you never know how much a company values it's customer's until something goes wrong and fair play to arashi ... they're sending a brand new billet wheeled 20g core and correct size oil feed free of charge 👍 Guess I'm gonna be busy next weekend too then 😉

As I'm hopefully not refurbishing the bottom end , plan A is to fit the v4sti heads with new rcm headgaskets ,using the existing arp studs. Removed the downpipe and any other remaining bolts on the underside of the scoob . Removed the reversed inlet ,fuel lines and engine loom , as I didn't want to contaminate the almost new fuel system or scratch the shiny red powdercoat .I fitted a old spare inlet to pull the engine with and keep the engine "sealed" ,while I strip and prep it in the shed this time . after 8yrs and 60k everything looks good with the cam cover off and the only oily bit seems to have come from the power steering pump or reservoir . A couple of the head exhaust manifold nuts look like they're gonna be a mare to get off (well rusty) but they've been on there 5 hrs or so . The block paintwork has held up fairly well but well see if I get chance to tidy that up , once I've popped the heads off and know how much I've got to do internally. Unfortunately There's a issue with my new turbo but its still under warranty and I'll wait to see what they say before posting any details on here .

I've only ever owned 1 scooby with the original clutch and that started slipping at 95k when I had a remap . At 116k the clutch is probably near the end of its life , if you do decide to get a new one fitted . Make sure they skim the flywheel and replace the rear crank oil seal and spigot bearing. As a tramlined flywheel wheel cause the new clutch to wear unevenly and the oil seal makes sense to change while the clutch and box are off

If you know the cars service history or know the clutch has been replaced at some point , it could be a leaky crankshaft oil seal or oil separator plate contaminating the clutch . Theres a access bung on the back of the block that allows you to see the back of the flywheel and a plate that covers the gearbox bellhousing underneath, that also allows you to inspect the clutch /flywheel assembly. Could check to see if you can spot any oil leaking. The other thing worth checking is the level and colour of the fluid in the clutch reservoir. As a clutch fluid refresh often gets forgotten at service time and a refresh can make a world of difference

Managed to squeeze in 2 hrs this morning , before being dragged out prom dress shopping ,for my daughter not me 😘 It's ready to pull apart from engine mount nuts and downpipe to center section . I'd normally have the engine out by now but I've disconnected everything between inlet manifold and engine too . As I will fit a spare bare old inlet to pull the engine out with ,so I dont scratch the shiny one 😉 Hopefully I'll be left to it tomorrow, get the engine out ,on the stand in the shed and start the teardown 🤞

Won't be long now then stu , cracking on with it nicely bud 👍