savage bulldogs

Afaik a blobeye wrx will have 3 "cats" Pre cat in the up pipe ,this goes between headers (exhaust manifold) and bottom of the turbo . Main cat (in the downpipe),this goes from the turbo to the center section. Secondary cat , this is in the centre section of the exhaust . If the code is o2 on just 1 bank ? It's more likely to be a sticky tgv (tumble generator valve) than a o2 issue .as a stuck tgv restricts the air flow into the head , causing air fuel ratio (o2) readings to be out . So just double check it's a o2 problem code and not a out of parameter 02 reading on 1 bank before you buy anything bud

doubt I'd become rich doing it ,as I'm far too fussy and through but I know I'd enjoy it more than swinging a trowel all day 🙄

Mrs had "a nice big list of diy to do " so I promptly made us both a cuppa and disappeared into the scooby scraps shed 😋 Had a bit of a tidy up to create some space to start on the v4sti heads .Found 3 x 10mm sockets too ,so I'm gonna buy a scratch card later (cos I feel lucky lol ) Started on one head by checking the current valve clearances and although they're at the top of factory spec , I think that's a good thing . As hopefully when I relap the valves in ,it will bring the valve tips in closer , closing the gap by a thou or so 😉 . Not that it matters too much , as I can change the under bucket shims for the correct size when assembling, anyways . The bottom end had gone on the v4 sti type r , so the chambers looked a bit oily.Other than that they look in good order 😎 Knowing that I can't bring oily "scooby scraps " into the kitchen, I removed the pulleys ,re fitted the cam covers and started to give them a clean with a tooth brush and some wd40. Obviously once I've stripped them they'll go to Pat segar (my trusty engineer ) for a pressure check ,face skim and hot wash before reassembly. So just a couple of pics of the pre kitchen prep ,for now 😊 Excuse the quality of the pics ,it was getting a bit dark by the time I'd finished

Looks like you've found a nice clean example 😎 The blobeye wagons do have a narrower front end but I'm sure the "track" is the same . If it bothers you that much , you can just bolt on the saloon front bumper and wings though 😉 As for jacking ,rear diff axle stands under the rear trailing arms .front engine cradle /subframe , and I use thin bits of wood on top of the axle stands (to not chip of the protective under body paint) and place them under the chassis . As for getting pulled over ,I've had scoobies for about 10 yrs and some set ups have been pretty loud but have only been pulled over once . That was only cos there was a "terminal velocity " (1/2 mile) event locally , so they were doing vosa checks on anything remotely "sporty" in the area . Hopefully now the local police have pulled you and they know you're all legal, they'll get on with catching some criminals (instead of hassling you) 😊

Tbh Jay ,after moving from east london (rat race) to the sunny sleepy Suffolk coast , I quite like it here bud . Ideally I'd like to either build my own place or convert a country pub but we'll see what happens. So if while you're "scouting" you happen to spot a disused Suffolk country pub for about £300k let me know 😉 Yep ,I even thought about trade marking that name 😊 I've gotta wait until my youngest (15yr old ) daughter has finished high school before I even start looking . Everything I've done to scoobies has been outside on a handstand , well apart from the engine building in the kitchen 😊 So I'd love to give up staring at a wall for a living and swap it for working on scoobies in a nice ,clean ,dry and warm workshop 😎

Liking the boot installation, very tidy mate 👍

Since building my first A+ (classic mini) engine at the age of 11 ,I've always enjoyed mechanics 😊 But after working in my dads garage for years as a teenager and doing a 4 yr apprenticeship at Ford , I gave up mechanics due to getting fed up on working on other people's cars full time . I've worked as a car painter /panel beater, precision engineer (lathes, mill work ect ) British standard welder ,structural steel worker, all of which I got good at but then bored and moved on to learn something new . As for being a self employed plasterer, its boring after a while but I'm my own boss and it pays enough for me to stick at it 😉 Well for now , until I move and hopefully start a new business. .... working on scoobies 😊

I did used to work on cars full time but I started to hate mechanics ,while working on other people's s##t boxes . Don't get me wrong stu ,there's still some days when I want to "flick a match" at the scoob though 🤬😂 Being a plasterer for the past 19yrs and being hit twice from side impacts while driving... I literally feel your pain ,when it comes to aching bones somedays 🙄. Well as for the v1sti today , while the battery was on charge, I gave it a heavy coat of wax and "aired" it out . Then covered it over 😥 On a plus it's given me a incentive to find something "scooby to do" 🤔 so I collected a pair of v1/V2 cam covers from a mate (to get powder coated ) and finally unwrapped one of the v4sti heads 😉

I'm not too far away then , in south Suffolk about 20 miles from colchester. I know a few owners in essex that use first start garage in basildon but haven't used them myself and don't know if the rebuild engines, or just mot and service them I'm sure someone will be able to help you get it back on the road .

Cheers , chap 👍 It's only taken about 7 yrs so far and although the over all cost probably mounts up (don't tell the wife lol ) , most of it had been done on a relatively tight budget.

You know me stu ... I do like to fettle 😊 It's not just a car , it's a hobby for me . After all ,I just stare at walls for a living (plasterer) so I need something to keep the grey matter awake and my idle hands busy . If I'd have spent £1000's on a cossie reversed inlet ,avcs conversion, a md or od turbo . It would've been finished ages ago and I'd have nothing to do lol .so these always something scooby to do 😊 The info available on the v1sti's engine spec is a bit vague, as they were hand built at sti (instead of on the Subaru production line) and some people say that you could "spec" them when ordering . Although I don't know how much truth is in that and haven't researched it , cos it's not applicable to most my engine, anyways . So I couldn't resist the v4sti heads ,as v3/v4 sti have the most aggressive cams they put in classics 😉 I've only unwrapped of the heads and haven't even put the winter cover on the car yet . But I'm already thinking at least a baffled sump and a new set of mahle piston rings might be in my xmas list 🤔

I've never had a quote for rebuilding a engine but I've done a few ,so know how labour intensive and costly the full gasket kits can be . I mention that as I doubt you'll get much change from a minimum of £2k for a full rebuild. I just work on my own scoobies for a hobby , so can't offer to do it for you ,unfortunately . If the prospect of a fairly big bill has put you off a bit, getting someone to fit a good second hand later bottom end to your heads might be worth looking into . If I did ,want someone to build/ work on a engine for me, I'd probably choose Mick at Rm performance in banbury or Alyn at Asperformance (north Yorkshire I think). But if you let us know what county your in and someone else migh be able to recommend someone closer .

The best option depends on your level of mechanical skills and budget tbh , bud . If you've got the knowledge and equipment ,then rebuilding is probably the cheapest and best option imo . As you end up with a good as new engine. Not trying to put you off buying 2nd hand but Most compatible (reasonable straight swap) engines are anywhere between 26 and 19 yrs old . Few tips on engine identification , to help make sense of my previous post . V1/V2 (92 to early 96) , they have single coilpacks on top of each spark plug , a slanted intercooler and a swan neck turbo inlet (air intake pipework doesn't pass under the inlet ). Straight swap V3/v4 (late 96 to 98) these engines have 1 coilpack in the centre of the inlet manifold (ht leads to the plugs) straight intercooler and a front entry turbo (intake pipework passes under the inlet).your have to fit the inlet/auxiliaries off your existing v1/V2 engine, to the heads of the v3/v4 engine. To make everything else match the car . V5/V6 99 onwards classic have 1 offset coilpack on the inlet but the head ports are not compatible with your inlet . Can be fitted but requires a lot of electrical modification or fabrication.

Tbh I probably enjoy working on and learning about scoobies almost as much as driving them . So good luck , enjoy it and savages top tip would be get a swear tin .. . That way by the time its road worthy you'll have some money for mods 😊

Well japshow seems like a distant (soggy) memory and the scooby is now sorn for the salty season. Did take it out for a final blast before it went into hibernation 😊 as I know I'm going to miss it ,due to not having the bug sti as a daily anymore and now having a boring a4 20t petrol for a winter hack 🙄😏 The engine has done nearly 60k since I built it and is due a cambelt kit soon , so although it's fairly easy to do the cambelt institu .... I did buy those v4sti heads to refurb over the winter 🤔 So might get those done over the winter, pull the engine early next year and see how if it snowballs into a bottom end refresh 🤔🙄🤪😊 So seeing as I won't be driving it for a while , I took some pics of the inside for a change lol

Any v1 /V2 full engine (block ,heads, inlet manifold and auxiliaries) will be a direct fit Any v3/v4 long block (block and heads) will be a straight swap, if you fit your watercrossover pipe ,inlet manifold,engine loom and auxiliaries. Any ej20 bottom end will fit if you use your heads inlet ,engine loom and auxiliaries. The only thing with this option is that youd have to find out the piston crown cc (for the bottom end you use) and head chamber size (46cc for v1 casings) . In order to know what thickness headgaskets you need to make the 8.5 1 compression ratio As piston crown design and cc vary over the years /models 😉

There's quite a few differences and options to fit a engine in a early classic. Did you want to fit a complete engine and inlet , just a long block , or a bottom end with your heads (so everything matches up with the v1 loom )

Do like a clean bay , me 😊 Didn't know anywhere sold clutch slave kits , think mine needs a refresh as the biting point seems to shift a bit as it gets warmer 🤔

The 2 little straight ones and the "Z" shape one are for the timing belt casings, think the oval one is for the turbo oil drain pipe

No probs, Just thought I'd add , I'm Fairly sure the ht leads from your existing single coilpack will work on the single avcs heads . I'm not 100% sure but would imagine you could check by seeing if a ht lead would fit onto the spark plug ,with it fitted into the avcs head and the cam cover fitted . I just assumed you wanted to convert to the stronger spark created by the newage "coilpack on plug" system . Although the upgrade isn't needed for v3 (phase 1.5) onwards until higher hp and boost levels start to blow the spark out (probably over 450hp) . Either way tim is very knowledgeable and helpful when it comes to Subaru electronics.

I have converted my 94 sti from classic coilpacks to newage coilpacks and that involved by passing the "igniter " I'm unsure if newage coilpacks use a "igniter" ,as they generate the high amp current directly on top of the spark plugs but if they do I'd imagine you'd have to wire in a igniter and buy a newage engine loom to get them working. I'm not sure if your standard ECU will operate coilpacks and almost definitely won't be able to make the avcs work , unfortunately. If you have a aftermarket ECU like syvecs ,simtek or link , you can buy loom patch or add ons to get things working. Tim at jtinnovations makes bespoke subaru looms and add ons (like avcs patch and newage coilpack conversion leads ) . So he might be worth a email or message on his f.b page 😉

All my scoobies have occasionally made a "lovely bubbly" noise from behind the glove box . Not sure why , maybe something to do with the coolant running through the turbo core ,then expanding and cooling as it enters the heater matrix? Either way if it's not boiling over or losing coolant (needing to be topped up) I'd just keep a eye on it for now

Hows the tear down going ,bud . Is there much that can be salvaged from the original build or is it a complete restart with new parts ?

Always nice to see a classic getting some TLC, especially a v1 as they're getting thin on the ground and going up in value due to the 25yr old American import eligibility. Think the main areas are inner outer rear arches /sills and suspension turrets plus the battery tray that tend to be the usual suspects. Best of luck with it stu 👍

Think most get them "mapped out" as they tend to fail but unless you're already going to get it remapped or have already had it mapped (already paid the software license and it's just a tweek). Just having a remap to delete it would be fairly expensive