savage bulldogs

Any 2ltr heads (including avcs) will fit any 2ltr bottom end , but I've only ever seen people use the same version inlet as the car (apart from reversed inlet set ups ) Mechanically it will fit no probs I just know there's a few differences and don't know enough about them to advise you with the electric compatibility issues

I think subaru just use three bond as I've never seen one on any of the turbo impreza engines I've stripped . saying that ,on my engine build I used a group n cork gasket with a light smear of three bond . 2 main reasons were I was advised to by a rally engine builder and I didn't fancy doing it again if it didn't seal properly I did build mine intending on tuning it so it might be over kill for your needs but ,if you do need either gasket or sealant I bought both from "import car parts"

Looks sweet matt , nice choice fella. My youngest daughter helps me with most things scoob the eldest just likes sitting in the front any opportunity . I'm waiting for jgm to get back to me for a firm date for my map tweek @attowes rolling road norwich , but it's looking like a monday in mid april . You mentioned might be interested in a remap have you give it any thought and is that ball park date any good for your time scale , bud ?

Completely stripped my inlet even though it was already powder coated as the idiot that had fitted it to scoob had used clear sealant instead of gaskets. Glad I did strip it as it was full of beads and grit from the shot blasting prior to powder coat , so I had it run through my engineers hot wash ,guess I know why his engine went bang and I ended up with a powder coated inlet for a score ;-) Anyways I cleaned my throttle body with old school gunk and a tooth brush , used a dremmel with a little wire brush to give it a shine and polished it with autosol .Then wiped the inside with petrol and re oiled the moving parts

I personally prefer to completely strip anything I paint and use plenty off pannel wipe between coats or after sanding.As any small amount of contaminant (oil, grease ect...) can cause a reaction with the paint . The injectors need to seal into the base of the inlet holes as well as the fuel rails ,so plug em with blue tack or play dough if you do strip the rails off ;-) How are you going to get the v5/6 engine running in the v3 shell ? Is it just a case of using the v5/6 engine auxiliaries ,engine loom ,intercooler and inlet pipework ect and plugging it into the v3 loom /ecu . I know a bit about v1to v4 and know that the later ecu's can't be fitted to them without a loom change and I'm just curious as I don't know a great deal about electrics

Yeah I'll be selling my sti tmic for about £ 40 + p&p , but cos its for a v3 I'd make sure it will fit your phase 2 inlet cos v3 should be phase 1.5 and the recirculation valve sits in a different place compared to phase 2

Made a start fitting the hdi fmic as you can see there's quite a size difference One of it in situ didn't manage to get it all back together , but here's one of how I left her looking all sorry for itself lol

Today I be mostly fighting with the front mount intercooler :-)

I think you should have a r160 rear diff with a 3.5.4 uk ratio as standard just google your ty.... gearbox code (off the white sticker under the tmic near the starter motor) to double check as it might have had a box change in the past

Stared at the scooby through the back gate most of the weekend :-( as the mrs has got me fitting a new fence :'( Did tell her I needed some "sky hooks" from b&q and had to pop out in the scoob to collect em :-D Mpg was about 12 smiles per gallon :-)

Definitely the same on classics as my old saloon zorst is happily hooning around on a friends wagon ;-)

Rally tech do dress up kits (bolts, stainless rad covers ect ) I wouldn't go for the cheap as chips silicon hoses, certainly and not if your looking to replace the under inlet intake pipe. As the cheap boost hoses have been known to "suck flat" under high boost . I've got samco stuff on mine which is expensive but , ASH hoses we're recommended by someone on here and I think I saw a group buy on here somewhere .

V1 v2 (phase 1) and v3/ v4 (phase1.5) heads inlets are the same patern so any v1 to v4 inlet will fit any v1 to v4 heads. I have v1 (phase 1) heads bolted to my v3 inlet . you just have to use the correct version inlet , injectors, auxiliaries to match the phase of the car/loom . v6/v6 (phase 2 ) head/ inlet patern is different to v1 to v4 so won't fit but , you can still use the injectors with "phase adapters"

Black intercoolers were only on the classic wrxs and uk turbos . I've got a v3/4 sti silver intercooler on mine

Here you go gary have a squint at this bud http://www.fecker.co.uk/scooby/article.php?id=4

Possibly mate I think someone on here has a v4 sti it might have a offset coil pack . have you tried offering up the inlet to the heads as the bolt pattern changes from v5 onwards . just thought I'd mention it in case you ended up painting a inlet that wasn't compatible with your car .

I think after v4 they stopped using 380's (greys) in any turbo'd scoob and used 440's (yellows) in all variations of turbo'd scoob .I think only the v2 v3 and v4 sti's had yellows as standard up till then . there's a pic of my uk v3 inlet on my project thread with the coil pack in line with the throttle body I'm unsure where v4 coilpacks sit but ,v5/6 sit in a similar location to the one in your pic .a v5/6 inlet won't be compatible with v1 to v4 heads . Did that inlet come of the engine that was in the car ?

Got a new bearing pressed in on my 97 but ,When you remove the hub be careful not to break the abs ring (like the bloke that pressed the old one out) as they cost a fortune :-(

Nice choice fella Get yourself some "rim wax " cos it makes keeping them clean a bit easier ;-)

Strange that inlet looks later than my v3 uk ,cos my coilpack is in the center I also thought sti's ran separate coils on each cylinder (my brvs v1 sti does) Mabye it's just the early sti's and newage sti's that do You have to remove the caps to pull the injectors out but, be careful as when I removed my 380's I broke one as they do get brittle ;-)

I've been either cautious or lucky enough to avoid any problems on forums but, I think it's important the buyer does his homework . I certainly haven't seen anything to cause alarm on here well ,apart from a few of gambits pics, comments and links :-D I think Stanton's idea about some sort of trader / liked post score might help with buyers confidence . I didn't in any way mean we should exclude any body just because they don't post as much as they browse just that another forum uses a paid members area as a sort bonus for helping the club pay the bills. I post on here cos it's the friendliest and most non judgemental forum I'm part of and the fact that it's free well that's a bonus

Finally bought the last bit needed before the remap a cusco 3" bell mouth decat downpipe with a divorced wastegate

Good point ash As I'd buy parts/cars from a regular user but would be more cautious from a unknown user . my local forum only let's paid members (£10 per yr) advertise things for sale but ,any member can post or buy in the for sale section. I think it helps stop some con artists as at least the forum have a few more details from the users that cannot be seen by anyone logging in . In saying that im glad it's free as imo there isn't much thats free in this world that's worth having :-D

Thats a version 1 or 2 engine with a phase 1 inlet . any version 1&2 full engine (with the donor inlet attached) will drop straight in. Any v3/4 long engine (block and heads) will fit but you'd have to attach your cars inlet and auxiliaries Cos My 93 to 98 have the same inline stud pattern on the inlets for the inlet manifold. I have got a v1sti closed deck block long engine for sale running a healthy 347 bhp @ 1.2 bar .It's still in the car at the moment so can be heard running/driven if needs be . Clive

Uk and jdm boxes are interchangeable (same on the outside) but different ratios. Therefore you'd need a matching rear diff with a uk 3.54 ratio to fit a uk box I'd get the wheel balancing and tracking checked as if there out it would give the same symptoms as described but a much cheaper fix ;-)