savage bulldogs

Hi and welcome to soc . lovely examples of subarus their fella ,shame you'll have to leave them behind :-( If you could manage to get a few U.S aftermarket part companies to ship goods over I'm sure you won't be short of new found friends in the UK subaru community :-) When you do come over here chuck a 500 hp blouch billet stock location in your bag and I'll pick you up at the airport :-D To be honest I don't know what a paroniod 1/2 saggy butt spacer is :O Chuck a couple of those in your bag anyways as they sound right up gambits street lol

Front ends coming along nicely matt :-) I'll have a classic sports cat up for sale in the new year (as I'm going de cat ) if any use to you ;-) Did you get the cones that go over the bottom balljoints with the ally arms ? If not you'll need some to stop the steel balljoints wearing through the ally arms and I think the front drop links are possibly different for ally arms .as I thought there was a different part number/ option for ally arms when I bought my front drop links ;-)

Hi and welcome to soc fella And the gearbox dip stick is on the drivers side under the top mount intercooler between the downpipe and the gearbox bud ;-)

Cheers gambit my dad always enjoyed building sleepers "back in the day " v6 Ford angila, 3.3 cortinas and a few pinto 2ltr escorts . my first motor was a mk1 escort with a full "burtons" (1760 cc ,twin webber carb, 4branch manifold ect .. ) race engine which used to eat tyres and gearboxes due to lighting the back axle up in fourth :-D As for working on cars full time it's not as much fun doing a head gasket on some old dears fubared fiesta as it is playing scoob !;-) And it don't pay as well as plastering does :-D

Thanks for the comments I'm a self employed plasterer but, have always been a petrol head , I could strip and rebuild a A+ engine (mini engine) by the age of 11 . I also did a 3 yr apprenticeship @fords Dagenham after I left school and found that mechanical engineering wasn't so much fun doing it every day . I wouldn't say "I know my stuff " as I've only been playing scooby for a couple of years and don't know very much about the diagnostics as I've only found the answers to problems I've come across during my build ;-) I just enjoy taking things apart(cleaning/ improving them) and putting them back toghether lol

Just spotted this thread and I like the sound of a twin turbo classic scooby :-) Simon@jgm has twin turbocharged his 3.3 legacy lump (so it's definitely possible) but he's got a custom loom , exhaust, ecu and probably running external wastegates. here's a pic of his in the early stages (just cos it's real purdy lol) keep us posted on any progress fella ;-)

Gutted :-( Blew the dust of forza 4 and thought I'd better get a bit of practice in before I try for a lap time . Already had the 22b although in a mental state of tune :-) de tuned it got a couple of laps in with faults . But then the mrs got leg lock on her exercise bike , kicked the sleeping buldog in the !Removed! , which shot across the room , taking the xbox controller lead with it , which pulled the xbox off its shelf ..... Disc unreadable . It was like something outta mouse trap lol I wouldn't have minded if she'd had broken the xbox (next gen here we come) but she's just fubared forza :'(

Sorry gambit forgot I posted on this thread . Don't think I've still got forza 5 ,should have a few records in a 22b on a few tracks though (I'll have to have a squint tonight) . Will admit I'm normally busy on a sunday evening so wouldn't be able to join in the soc league anyways :-( I'll let you know if I find forza 5 though and might be up for a couple of laps over the xmas break . Decided to definitely wait until spring before I choose which next gen to get and spend some money on the scooby instead .

Nice work bud and +1 for using a different engine for building as you can take your time and not have the scooby of the road for to long ;-) Unfortunately a sti cdb long engine won't fit straight in yours (you'd need to bolt on the later heads to the block so it will match up with your phase 2 inlet/loom ) cdb long engines are only compatible with version 1 to version 4 (the inlet stud paterns the same ). Clive

Nice result with the 18 g matt ;-) Any pics of the new splitter fella , is it a hta replica p1 splitter as thats what I've fitted .think their a bargain for under a £100 new

You're right about the ratios jay I do seem to always be in the right gear to hit the power :-D Mrs has bought me a hybrid fmic with polished ally hard pipes for xmas :-D !Removed! thing is huge ,don't think I'm gonna have much front bumper left once I fit it lol. I'm not a fan of dump valves so I'm gonna try to retain the factory's recirculation valve .As it dumps the air pressure back into the intake tract rather than venting it into atmosphere (every little bit of boost helps imo ) I've made a start on getting the old paint off the 2 pot rear calipers I picked up last month but , it's far to cold in the man cave to continue with those this year . Need a 3" decat classic downpipe and decent cone filter , (not fussed what size bore cone filter) as im gonna make up something to delete the maff and re route induction for the fmic pipework (as the standard air box will have to be removed)

If I do eventually get a 2 door shell it would only be a fresh import type r ( if your lucky you can pick up a bare shell for about £1, 200) As the shells are the same and I wouldn't be paying p1 prices for a load of bit's ive already got on my v3 uk turbo ;-)

Yeah nothing wrong with graphics ,each to their own taste when modding bud imo it's all about making your mark on a motor :-) As for that pic of a 2 door someone off another forum put it up asking what the name of the body kit was and it caught my eye (so I know nothing about it lol). Once my mechanics are sorted I'll be looking at a 2 door reshell (I was gonna go for clean oe looks modded underneath) but I'm liking the look of a wide arch body kit recently

Gotta admit 2 door classics are my favourite looking scoob , love the 22b and quite like the look of this. Im not a fan of graphics myself, but I do like that body kit

Duncan is based in Brighton last I heard , he used to live in Suffolk and fitted my esl and originally mapped it 2 yrs ago .He's a respected mapper but , imo he's better with the newage stuff (my afr was a bit rich on my classic ) no disrespect ment as his newage maps were spot on at my recent rr day . Simon's based in Surrey and knows his scoobs ,he owns a 1, 000 + hp classic himself :-) hence why I thought id give him a try this time around ;-) Both of them will either come to you and map on the road or go to a rolling road of your choice . Once my fmic is fitted I'll be heading to a rolling road for a map tweek with simon so A. I can get a power graph and visually check the afr, boost and torque B. I don't have to use flat to the floor throttle on the road as traffic and weather can be a issue (when all 4 of my tyres light up in the dry already lol )

I'm not sure if the ecu from the v2 sti would be a straight swop as yours being a 94 i think it will be a v1 (v1 sti ecus are fitted with the S.A ecu). Although the earlier sti's (v1 &v2) have the same turbo and injectors as the wrx the sti has different cams as well as the more aggressive map . I'd personally stick away from generic "chips" (like the mines chipped ecu) as they're not bespoke to the car and therefore not 100% safe and won't get the maximum performance out of the car/ mods . Probably the cheapest option would be to look for a second hand esl boarded ecu (from the same year would defo just plug in) you'll pay about£150 to £200 for the ecu and about another £200 for a remap . Alternatively drop simon @jgm a email and he would supply, fit and map a new esl board for about £550 Or there is the apexi ecu which is about £350 +fitting+mapping

I have heard that oil plays havoc with maffs but id also heard that the scooby maffs (especially classics) prone to fail anyways :-( i had my pannel filter in for a good 3 k miles and didn't have any maff issues but due to the rumours I'm now running maffless (esl ) in my 97 classic ;-)

Nice work mods :-) shiny new room for us gamers How are you getting on with the xbone gambit ? Has the voice recognition banned you from live yet for cursing at bf4 still crashing lol . Don't get me wrong I've still been playing bf4 every night since it was released (cos it's quality) but it still crashes on the 360 occasionally

I didn't like the idea of a cone filter sucking hot air from under the bonnet so did a resonator delete (cut the air tumbler out from under the wing ) which increases air flow and fitted a k &n pannel filter as one of my first mods . Saying that once I fit a fmic I'll have to fit a cone filter as the fmic pipework gets in the way of the standard air box ,but I'll try to run a cold feed and fit one with a heat shield .

The gasket might have gone pressurising the coolant and therfore you wouldn't loose much fluid , but I don't understand why you would loose the heating . (Mabey get a coolant sniff test done to be safe .) Might be a blockage in the water system , try flushing the oil cooler , main rad or heater matrix (anything with a pipe either end) with a hose . Check the thermostat or header tank cap isn't faulty/sticking . Hopefully it's a cheap fix fella

I filled mine after the engine change by starting to fill the system through the header tank with the engine off ,heater controls in the hot position ,pumping bottom and top rad hoses (and any other coolant hoses) as I filled . I made sure that there was coolant in the header tank at all times (didn't let it suck dry) . Once I couldn't get anymore coolant into the header tank I ran the car for 5 mins with the header cap off topping up with coolant as needed but, again making sure the header tank had coolant in at all times . Are you getting any steam (excessive white smoke ) outta the exhaust as it might be head gasket (although I hope not )or you could try checking the spark plugs for any sign of water in the bores . Hope you sort it soon fella

Mine was a ty52 box with good service history 90k I don't launch it and drive with mechanical sympathy but it died @ about 330 hp. My brv ate 2 5 speeds in as many months @ 340 hp but yet again they were the earlier ty52's .saying that I know someone that ran 375 hp on a ty 52 but he knew he was on borrowed time and upgraded to a 6 speed soon after) The later ty54's do tend to handle a bit more but ,I think for reliability and longevity I'd bear it in mind bud (especially if you are planning further mods to reach 400 ish) as you don't want any nasty costly surprises. P.s the box code is on a white sticker on the bell housing near the starter motor and will begin with a TY...... number ;-)

She's far to lazy and stubborn to be of any help , all she does is get under my feet and crawl under the car to have a kip in the shade

Yes bud that's where the o2 sensor is on my 97 classic ;-) the early ones were in the headers but, were moved to the downpipe(after the turbo) due to some failing and sending debris into the turbo .id check the wires/plug before you buy another sensor as their prone to cracking the insulation . Also might be worth disconnecting the battery earth for 10 mins after clearing the ecu codes , as some codes can be still stored on the ecu (even though youve done a ecu reset) Just saw your post on the egt sensor I haven't seen one on mine but , I was told that the wiring on my 6 speed was for a newage egt and that sat near the mid section of the exhaust . Hope that helps ,Best of luck bud

Thanks for the comments chaps . Sorry fellas I'm afraid the closest your get to a pic of the woman in my life is of liz (my avatar) . As for aiming for above 330 (with the exception of micks 6 speed sti) watch out as you'll need a gearbox/ clutch upgrade and you won't get much change outta £2k and that's if you fit it yourself ;-)