savage bulldogs

I'm still going, unless everyone else isn't going as i don't wanna be a 1 man stand lol

Hopefully you've just missed a plug or chassis earth on assembly , have you checked fuses and ecu plugs, no coolant spillage near any electrics while changing the matrix ?

Hope you get it sorted soon Geoff and hopefully it will sort your sticky caliper issue out too

Got a bit carried away with cleaning for japshow finale next weekend and ended up cleaning the arches (to keep the tin worm away) and the front arches are still in good nick for a 24yr old daily 😎 while searching for my ally polish, i found a bag of stickers from a few of the parts I've bought over the years . I'm not one for stickers normally but thought I'd chuck em on the rad cooling panel in the bay . Haven't quite made my mind up if they'll be staying but here's a few pics.

Normally ngk irridium heat 6's for standard and heat 7's for modded

Cheers chap 👍 Only supposed to be waxing the v1 for japshow finale but My ocd got the better of me and i ended up giving the arches a clean and sealing the wheels lol .

Boost solinoid clean and ecu reset might be worth a go ,as well as checking if the plugs are all the same colour and the right colour . I don't actually know technically whats the "g" stands for but its a way of measuring the turbo compressor (coldside) wheel, 16g is stock size and 18g is slightly bigger. Ie . ... A tdo5 16g (stock subaru) will spool earlier but flow slightly less air at say 1 bar . A tdo5 18g (aftermarket) will spool a bit later (more lag) but will flow more air per minute at the same 1bar . So it would make higher max hp but higher in the rev range and be less responsive (laggier) due to having a bigger 18g wheel

Could be numerous things , no ecu codes ? Are the spark plugs due soon , colour and condition can help pin point a cylinder misfiring or general running issues . If they are due a change ,most switch to heat 7's when modified . Do you have a boost gauge ? A boost leak could cause a lack in power. I'd definitely get it running right as standard before modding or mapping it , bud .As it might save a lot of dyno / mapping time 😉

Im in east Anglia, so can't really help but hopefully someone more local to you can recommend a reputable tuner near by . Best of luck with the search 👍 Edited in .... Dunno how south west you are but the only 1 i can think of is Alan Jefferies @ enginetuner in Plymouth.

Not much of a update but the windscreen will be fitted this monday coming. Which should hopefully give me enough time to slap a coat of wax on her in time for japshow finale at santa pod the following sunday 😊. Although I've enjoyed driving it this year , instead of pulling it apart every 5 mins 🙄 It will be coming off road for the winter , to try and keep the salt off the paintwork. hopefully it will also give me the time to delug the inlet manifold and get it powder coated , maybe even finally fit the billet fuel rails and parallel fuel lines I've had for nearly 2 yrs 😂

Hi n welcome, unfortunately there's not many gains to be had from remapping a non turbo . Think theyre about 160hp as standard which isn't bad for a 2ltr na . Most na owners tend to concentrate on handling, lightening and braking mods . To make the most of the low centre of gravity boxer layout and awd system ,instead of spending £600 ish to gain 15hp by remapping . A first gen (classic) would probably be 200kg lighter ,so might make a better option /hill climb time .you'd have to google to see if there's any difference in 0 to 60 times to be sure though . Probably shouldn't say this lol but another option would be to speak to a mate of mine @ g19 engineering . As Doug does mx5 turbo conversions for about £2k all in .

No problem bud, just try not to get too hung up on pub figures. A friend had a type r with a gt30 that made over 400hp but my £50 td05 at 330hp used to beat it hands down . Mine hit 1 bar at 3k and pulled to the red , his hit 1bar at 5.5k and lit the tyres in 1st to 5th at 6k .😉

Vf35/34 and pink injectors is the usual route ,as thats what's fitted to bug and blob sti's. Once you've fitted a bigger turbo and been remapped you might end up having to renew the clutch ,if its the original and worn it might start to slip shortly afterwards .Also might find you need to upgrade the brakes to reign in the extra ponies from a bigger turbo . So really it depends on budget and what you want from the car . As a remapped tdo4 could get you a quick spooling 290hp (ie faster in 1st to 3rd) , which might suit your needs more than 330hp thats not as responsive. Think my tdo4 was a tdo4 L but that was on a 97 uk turbo .

Pm'd Geoff 😉

Yep , im up for a stand spot on sunday , mrs is coming along too . Will i have to buy her ticket direct from the pod , at the gate or from you Geoff?

Steer clear of cheap new turbos ,bud .you definitely get what you pay for 😉 Second hand subaru fitment tdo5 16g (Mitsubishi made) cost between £150 to £200 . Vf 35/34 /43 expect to pay around £350. Sti pink injectors are about £100 2nd hand . Try a reputable breaker ,like matt baker at mbdevelopements on f.b if you want to keep the cost down and buy second hand . The only new "cheap" sub £800 turbo manufacturers that some people have used is kinugwa and mamba but depending on who you talk to , some say they're rubbish too . I only have personal experience with a tdo4 (made 265hp). Paid £50 for a top entry tdo5 (made 347hp) Paid £150 for my current apssr40 (made 360 hp) But i do have a lot of supporting mods 😉

As ghost said , have a look in the tech section at the sticky thread on how to self check for ecu codes and reset the ecu . Unfortunately i haven't doen electrical tests on later classics and don't have a service manual for the v5/v6 , so can't help with voltage readings. The idle control valve and maf can be cleaned with electrical contact or brake cleaner , both of which tend to "gunk up". Just bear in mind ,You'll probably need a new gasket for the icv (from import car parts) if you do remove it to clean it .

Double check that you've got a tdo4 first , by either googling it or looking on the coldside (silver part of the turbo) as I'm not 100% up to scratch on my blob onwards spec . Not sure if the ppp has a precat in the up pipe ? But if so either a aftermarket up pipe or sti up pipe would be worth fitting while doing the turbo ,as it will help spool . Most front entry subaru fitment single scroll turbos are a straight swap but the usual route is either a tdo5 (cheapest ) or vf35/vf34 or vf43 .just beware of cheap copies and try to get the water lines , oil lines and banjo bolts with the turbo . Your standard injectors should be good for 320 hp ish but sti "pinks" would match the hp of the turbos above @ about 330 to 350 hp ish .

Most mappers would recommend fitting a pump prior to mapping as upping the boost requires more fuel and can put strain on a old pump . You can fit a decat and drive off boost but you should remap asap ,as the boost controll system and oe settings will struggle to keep the boost levels in check . Due to the less restrictive catless downpipe and this could cause the boost to come in earlier or hit higher peak values ,which the oe fueling map can't compensate for (running lean/ fuel cut due to overboost). Think the ppp wrx is supposed to run 265hp standard and use the tdo4 ? If so you probably won't see a great hike in hp ,as the tdo4 generally maxes out at 290 hp ish but you should see better drivability (boost coming in sooner ) and economy off boost . So unless you want to fit a bigger turbo and injectors to break the 300hp mark , id add a oil change and spark plugs to the mod list , unless they've been changed recently Best of luck with the remap , fella

Sounds like it will be a capable track car once run in and assume it's had drivetrain swap to handle the power . Things like ally wishbones and bonnet are standard on early jdm wrxs and adjustable suspension and braces can cost from £300 (cheap crap) to about £3k (top notch) . Ecu's from £600 esl map to £3k for syvecs and toucan display . From what your saying about the circle of deep pockets, you'd assume its had at least medium expense aftermarket parts . You never get back the labour and lucky to get back half the cost of parts when selling a car you've built . I'm personally finding it difficult to help with a price , as I've never bought a "track car " and always work /build my own engines and cars . Think you'll have to decide whether you're gonba take a leap of Faith and what "you " want to spend on it ,then keep a little back for paintwork and mapping when making a offer . A scooby breaker would need to know the exact spec ,brands and age of parts before making a offer but if he's willing to list all that ? Asking a breaker what it's worth might be the fairest way to get a figure that you can both agree on . Insurance, I'm with flux and pay a little less for my 360hp v1sti , once you have a detailed spec sheet the price can go either way a bit . We do have a discount with them so be sure to mention that and make sure you get a "agreed value policy" . Or most insurers will offer you book price (£2.5k) regardless of what you paid for the car and it's listed mods . Trust me i know lol . Best of luck , feel free to keep us updated and maybe chuck up a few pics if you do buy it

As mentioned earlier the classic drivetrain isn't gonna last long at over 330hp . cheapest upgrade path is a ty54 hawk 5 speed, good for high 300's ish (about £400 in parts ) 6 speed is the usual route ,good for over 600 hp (about £1.5k in parts ) As for engine, if its had a recent rebuild by clinic the receipt should detail whats been done and at what cost .but if the deck type is open or the pistons haven't been changed ,i wouldn't push it past mid 300hp tbh (as it's pretty much standard spec) The money spent doesn't always add the same to value ,hence why I mentioned tidgy's highly modded type r . As although it was a lovely spec'd car ,unfortunately you're normally lucky if you get back half the money you put into a "modded" motor . Think the general "jist" that we're all trying to put across ,isn't that your friend is trying to pull the wool .just that we wouldn't want to advise someone to buy a modded scoob ,without knowing its spec or warning them of possible costly issues that could arise shortly after getting the engine running over 330hp . I haven't bought a gc8 for about 7 yrs , as I've been busy with the 1 ive got lol . But clean mildly modded jdm wrx's seem to be for sale at £2.5k to £3k . Clean jdm sti's from £3k to £5k . What model yours is or what mildly modded ones are actually selling for , im afraid i don't know. Ball park without knowing its full model ,spec and a bit of cosmetic damage but bearing in mind it might need..... a mapable ecu ,mapping and drivetrain upgrade work ,shortly after purchase Somewhere between £2.5k and £4k ?maybe a bit more if it's had a ecu change ,drivetrain upgrade and decent spec build .

Ok bud , I'll try to commit to coming as early as possible,To not miss out on a stand place . I only had a week away in Wales and my customers are going skitz atm 🙄

You could pick up a 2nd hand 2.5 sti engine for about £1.2k , so as tidgy said spec of the build would affect the price . As the 2.5 ltr engine is standard guise are more prone to headgasket and ringland failure, so if its just had new headgaskets or a standard spec build It's not likely to add a great deal of value. Although its sounds like cosmetic paint damage Being a m reg (95 chassis) rust is another thing to look out for . Inner rear arches and suspension turrets tend to rust from the inside out (so can look ok from the outside) inner sills and crossmember beneath raditor are another place they tend to go . If these areas are rot free it's still a bit difficult to value due to being used as a track car ,As resale values can be limited due to the parts missing or modified for track use . The type of gc8 shell can also add /loose value ie jdm sti compared to a uk turbo . Then there's the other mods , at 330hp most gc8 5 speeds are on the limit ,so drive train ,brake and suspension mods can all add value (if quality parts are used) . I've seen gc8 "track ready cars " up for as little as £2.5k but they're mainly stripped out standard cars but well built/ modified track cars up for £10k . So it's very difficult for anyone to say how much it's worth ,without knowing the engine and car spec . Tbh i personally couldn't tell you what any track car is realistically worth and only be able to compare it to a modified road car of the same model . Think tidgys modified type r with a 2.5ltr forged closed deck probably set him back over £25k , but doubt he got much more than half that back when selling it.

Don't know much about n/a scoobs tbh but I'd say to check the spark plug condition and colour . As it can tell you quite a bit about how a engine is running and if 1 plug is a different colour it can help diagnose a particular cylinder at fault . On turbo versions with avcs there's a "screen filter" in the avcs oil line banjo bolts. These are fairly prone to blocking and can starve the turbo or avcs solenoids of oil . Which in turn might cause rough running at certain rev ranges , it would normally would be accompanied by a code but might be worth a look . Check Engine earths , sensor plugs and engine loom plugs , as a dodgy connection might cause the multi codes btssm app too

Some of the early pages are of my old v3 uk shell , so might be of use to your build . When the v3 caught tin worm i reshelled my engine and 6 speed into the jdm v1sti. Feel free to start your own build thread too chap 👍