savage bulldogs

I have built a few 2ltr ej's but haven't dealt with the 2.5 ltrs but from what I've read... 2.5's generally suffer from either ringland or headgasket failure .main causes of ringland failure from a engineering point of view are .... ring gaps being to tight, pistons swelling too much due to the material they're made from or the tune (det ,running lean ect). Headgasket failure causes .... overboost (excessive cylinder pressure) Overheating. Or lack of "clamping area" (generally a open deck issue) It depends on your target power and intended usage but if you definitely want to "future proof" id seriously consider the closed deck conversion . As this supports the cylinder bore sleeves and increases the "clamping area" for the headgaskets. Alyn at "as performance " would be well worth a email ,as he can undertake all machine work in house to the spec required ready to just build and possibly supply the block .

Some lovely looking metal there 👍 You certainly get about , credit to you for making the effort to get to all the shows in different countries . Hopefully you'll make it to another s.o.c stand next year .

Could try a reputable breaker like matt baker at "mbdevelopments" on Facebook , I'd still recommend getting a second hand block checked and honed if you're fitting new pistons. If your build is standard spec ? You could try luke at "import car parts" as they can supply new oe subaru "crate engines" and a new ej207 sti bottom end can be good for 450 hp in standard guise 😉 Can your old block not be overbored or better still (as tidgy said) sent to alyn at a.s performance to be closed deck converted and machined to the spec you're after .

I've always driven the v1sti all year round but seing as i have the bug sti and the 24yr old sti has recently had a full respray, i thought I'd take it off the road for the salty season. I finally found a seemly decent 5 ply breathable car cover for £50 😎 I gave the old girl its last bath of the year and took her for a "spin dry" to drive the moisture out the panel gaps and get the surface rust off the discs. Being a scooby fanatic, you'll probably be surprised to hear i quite like the look of evos 😶 but I'm not keen on being tailgated through town . Hit the sliplane and by by 08 plate evo 😊 well up to 70 mph when i dumped it 6th and backed off the throttle and he flew past looking unhappy that my 24yr old sti rinsed him from 0 to 70 mph 😂 Soapy pic and one of it's current hibernation situation 😥 So this thread will go quite for a bit ..... Well until spring when the scooby modding season begins 😉

Did enjoy rd2 on the ps4 but now ive completed it doubt I'll be playing it online tbh . Plus I've now bought battlefield v and quite getting into that 64 player conquest 😉

I wouldn't worry too much if it's just a aftermarket panel filter in the standard air box? but if its a induction kit or cone filter they tend to be less restrictive and can suck in heat soaked hot air from under the bonnet (if it's not got a cold feed or heat shield) Once you've done your service you could always get a dyno health check (about £50) at a local 4wd dyno . They will check ,air fuel ratio ,knock , give you a power printout and piece of mind it's running safe 😉

Sweet glas you've got it sorted 👍

My wideband reads 14.2 at cruse and hot idle 11.2 on boost ,which is pretty spot on for a boosted boxer lump. Yours seems to look like its missing or flooding on 1 cylinder , did you fit the cleaned injectors with new seals? Are all the spark plugs the same colour ? If one is wet with fuel or black with oily residue it might help diagnose if it's a particular cylinder at fault

Oil grades do tend to be a can of worms , so many different grades available now. People do tend to agree that millers is a good quality brand ,though . As a general rule of thumb... Think most tend to use 5w 30 standard and 10w 40 modded (or high mileage) in bug (2001) onwards imprezas . 10w 40 in earlier standard,10w 50 for high mileage (or piston slap) and 10w 60 for forged or track use . If you've got any history with it see if it lists the oil grade used ,as engines will wear in to the clearance made by the oil and you'd probably be best sticking to the grade its used to (if possible). As for the header tank ,does yours have bolts on the top or is it plastic ? If its The one with bolts, you can remove the top ,clean out and reseal . If not maybe a aftermarket one would be cheaper . If it's just the crud inside your worried about, try a coolant flush before dropping the coolant . Just search on here for the refill process, as the can get airlocks fairly easily.

Hi n welcome, most of us use import car parts and opie oils for genuine subaru bits and fluids . As far as the header tank is concerned , icp will probably have them new and I'm unsure if they're the same as any impreza ones. maybe one of the leggy owners can confirm if they are , as it might make it easy to find a second hand replacement. Far as fuel is concerned, as long as it doesn't have any "breathing mods" it will be fine if you just use 99 ron .

Sorry to hear you're thinking of selling, but know what it's like trying to keep a daily mint 😏 Not that any of my input will help you shorten your list but .... After owning my 2011 caddy for a couple of years , I'd probably buy something audi Quattro or vw 4motion 😶 . My v dub bud has a 2014 golf r ,with just a remap and downpipe it's making a responsive 370 hp . But I'd prefer his 480hp 4wd 3.3 ltr v5 turbo mk1 golf any day 🙂 You could always buy my v7sti type uk in the summer next year 😉

Haven't got anyone local that you could swap maf's with to see if it resolves the issue before parting with hard earned?

Hi bud is the spoiler the oe v1sti one , as i can't tell from that pic and if so would you post to suffolk (east Anglia) Cheers clive

Been driving the bug sti a lot recently, which is no slouch and a pleasure to drive 😎 But the v1sti will be coming off the road for the salty winter period soon 🙁 as she's looking good with her fresh coat of paint and I'd like to keep her that way 😉. So i decided to fire her up and take it for a spin to blow the cobwebs off before hibernation time . Eldest daughter doesn't often let me go out in the v1sti , without her ,as i think she loves the scoob more than me 🙄 Hit the slip lane and she turns to me grinning "Dad this thing you've created is absolutely savage , compared to bluebaru" 😂 Bug does sound nice with the haywood n scott turbo back and hks d.v but i will miss the rawness of the v1sti and the savage soundtrack of the fluttering gt28 and old skool Bailey's d.v 😊

If your running a aftermarket "oil'd filter" or induction kit, (like a k&n ) it might have contaminated the element. So you might just get away with cleaning the maf element with some brake cleaner . Hopefully it might solve the issue completely and would be Much cheaper than buying a new maf .Then possibly finding out it makes no difference to your symptoms, cos it's something else at fault 😉

Tbh i had a lot of mac and snap on stuff from my apprenticeship and working as a mechanic full time but 20yrs on and i seem to have lost a few lol . Last year during the black friday halfrauds sale they'd reduced their 300+ pcs advanced tool set and coupled with the s.o.c membership discount card it cost me just over £110 (instead of £320) . Not as good as some brands but i recently removed, rebuilt and refitted the ej207 in my bug and didn't need to use many of the tools, that wasn't in the new box 😉

Assume you've got the standard cat in place ? Have you tried taking it for a long drive before the test to heat the cat (hot cats work better) . As for the misfire without a code , spark plugs ,coilpacks ,air leaks , tgv's, did you fit the injectors with new seals , icv clean , maf clean .

Always warm them up before using boost and cool them down ,by driving the last 2 mins of your journey off boost . They do like a regular service and oil change (with quality oil at least every 6k) , only use 99ron (high octane fuel) They don't like bolt on mods (exhausts ,induction kits ,fmic's ect) being fitted without having the map tweeked ,to allow for the air flow changes. Anything else in particular you want to know ? Welcome to the world of burble n boost 😊

Has it had a different spoiler fitted ? , cos if they're not sealed properly, that could be a possibility. The rear lights and rear screen are also another way water can get in . Make sure you check the spare wheel and both rear arch wells (behind the rear wheels) As if it's been leaking for a while they can fill up with water .

Hi n welcome , no disrespect but thats very cheap if it's a genuine item 😎 Just thought id add that v3 and v4 dump valve fitment are the same (to widen your prospective customers) . They'd also be suitable for any subaru with a fmic fitted, as long as you buy the correct dia "reducer" silicone coupler, to fit the fmic pipework take off and dump valve 😉

Whats you target hp and what's the car gonna be used for ? I've never personally used the omega pistons before ,so without knowing much about their spec , im afraid i can't help there . but i have used mahle pistons. They do 2 main types forged (good for 500 hp) and race (good for 750 hp) . I've always got my engineer to check the bores for ovality and taper ,then decided whether the bores just need a hone or a 0.5 mm overbore (with oversized pistons) to be within spec . You probably already know but If you intend on using a ej20g cdb you'll need your engineer to convert the crank thrust to take the later nitrated crank . I'd add headstuds and cossie headgaskets ,once you know the size of you piston bowl (to calculate thickness required) If it's gonna be used on track ,id also add a baffled sump and possibly swirl pot too 😉

In early stages of headgasket failure the sometimes only overheat when running at normal temps under boost , so don't always show up by a sniff test early on . As when the coolant is running at normal temps (fan has cut in ,temp gauge in the middle) it's at its maximum pressure . This plus the extra cylinder pressure from air being forced in by the turbo (on boost) causes combustion gasses to seep past the falling headgasket, pushing combustion gasses into the coolant and rising the coolant temps . Subaru engines very rarely mix oil n water tbh . Check the rad doesn't have a crack in the plastic near the overflow hose you replaced (common issue) Check top/ bottom rad and heater matrix flow and return hoses are getting hot when cars at normal running temp (fans cut in at idle) .as this might help rule out a sticky stat or airlock from the leaky hose .

Midweek break, so took the bug out for a run this time 🙂

Took the v1sti to it's last meet of the year before she goes into hibernation for the salty winter this year . Was a local f.b group called east coast Japanese, loads of different motors there but mine was the oldest scoob 😊 Only took a few pics but here they are anyways 😉

Yeah it was a baby boxer porka , so i wouldn't have picked on him but he started it by tailgating me through the 30 limits lol . I have had a play with a old skool 911 turbo , that couldn't keep up either but mine is running 359.9 hp and only weighs about 1200kg 😉