savage bulldogs

I can't really help with any local recommendations but RM performance and A.s performance are probably the only 2 companies I'd use (if I couldn't do the work myself ) . If nothing else, they'd be worth a call to discuss your options and get a rough idea of costing. I can tell you that icp supplied new nitraided crank, king bearings, cossie headgaskets, new head bolts and all the oe gaskets needed for a rebuild for about £1.3k but you'd have to add machine costs and labour on top of that. Possibly second hand block casings if it's a fubar'd a cylinder liner or maybe oversized pistons, if a 0.5mm over bore is needed to machine damaged bores within tollarances . Other option would be a second hand engine from the likes of mb developments, I'm pretty sure he's got a couple of sti ej207's in stock atm . You'd have to contact matt for a price and add fitting costs too . Best of luck, bud

Seeing as she's been sleeping for a while and the weather's been in the plus degrees, I decided to start her up and run it up to temp . Gotta say I'm impressed with the car cover ,cos she's proppa shiny still underneath it 😎 Although it's still a bit too cold to strip the inlet manifold off ,it's spurred me on to start the ball rolling on getting the old engine loom replacement lined up. Due to the custom reversed inlet manifold I'm running a v3/v4 throttle body ,cable and tps . I've also done a newage coilpack conversion, so decided to get "jt innovation " to make a custom made loom .As not only would a second hand loom be 25yrs old ,with insulation just as brittle as the original one ,it would need to have the newage coil pack pigtails and v3 tps plug spliced in again 🙄. So no pics or real updates , just thought seeing as I woke her up I'd do the same to the thread 😉

Little break in the sub zero temperatures, so chucked a sponge at the bug and took it for a spin dry 😊

Are the journals definitely worn and out of tolerance? As it's fairly common to visually see a ring around the cam journals, from the oil staining and sometimes even a slight build up that can be "flattened off" .

Hi n welcome. It does depend on whether you're after new or 2nd hand parts and where abouts you're based . Most tend to use import car parts for oe subaru parts ,gaskets, bushes ect . Alyn at as performance or mark at lateral performance are normally a good shout for aftermarket or uprated parts . If it's second hand stuff you're after, feel free to post a wanted thread in the for sale /wanted section on here .

No problem bud, best of luck 👍

Tbh I've never owned a scoob with tgv's or worked on one with them lol . but think it stands for something like "tumbler generator valves" and they're supposed to "tumble"the air into the engine helping to mix the air and fuel for better emissions on cold start . Classics and newage sti's don't have them and most aiming for high hp just delete and map them out . Tbh my newer scooby spec isn't up to scratch, so don't know if your version definitely has tgv's but do know that they can cause misfire symptoms without tgv codes . Hopefully it's just a sticky solinoid mucking with the mixture and nothing too serious

Yes bud ,it won't change anything just be more reliable. Couple of tips ... Pull the fuel pump fuse ,start it and let it run till it stalls ,to de pressurise fuel system a bit before undoing fuel lines . Clean the area around the tank fuel sender hatch before opening the tank , lessens the chance of debris going in the tank . Have a few bits of rag to hand to mop spills and something to cover the hole when you remove the cradle to fit the new pump . Check the fuel sock is the same length ish as the old one ,if not and the old 1 is clean ,refit the old one . Once everything is refitted refit the fuel pump fuse ,turn key a few times just too ignition stage, to prime pump and systems . Then go for 1st start up 😉

Sometimes if the tgv's solinoids stick they can cause the flaps to stay shut ,in turn starve air and give a misfire. If it's running a oil'd cone filter or inner wing induction kit the maf 's can get dirty . Cleaning with brake cleaner, waiting for it to dry ,refitting and clearing ecu codes can sometimes help .

Fitting a pump won't make any difference to the fuelling and it will run the same ,bud . The fuel pressure regulator will keep the fuelling the same as oe , but fitting a new pump before mapping is a good idea . As once remapped at full throttle the old pump might fail ,due to the extra demand for fuel 😉

Could check throttle position and maf sensor . if it's a wrx? Also That the tgv's are working correctly . What fuel are you using 99ron ?

Upset a smarmy looking 14 plate m5 driver and made a work colleague appreciate burble n boost 😊

Well sorry I can't help much more due to my lack of na spec knowledge, possible that turbo sized ring gaps and piston to bore clearances would work . But I generally don't like giving advice if I haven't done it myself (tried n tested) and I have no idea if the na pistons fail at lower boost levels because of the ring gaps or material they're made from ? Most ej20 bottom ends are the same size on the outside, but deck type ,crank thrust and internals differ quite a bit over the years on the turbo models alone. Just wanted to make you aware that the cost of gaskets ect wouldn't be much different from a na to turbo build. Especially if you can do the machine work yourself , I'd probably just build the turbo lump tbh . Other than piston material I'd check that the oil galleries are the same from na to turbo , as although the turbo oil feed and return attach to the heads , I don't know if the na block galleries will feed the turbo heads correctly. Best of luck with it and feel free to start a build thread, to keep us informed on your progress, bud

V1 and v2 up to early 96 are ej20g's as well so spec's I put up should be the same. Afaik the ej20k is v5 onwards with the different crank thrust and phase 2 heads

What year /version is yours ? V5 onwards they moved the crank thrust and changed the inlet manifold stud patterns but otherwise v1 to v4 are fairly similar

Bottom end

This is for 92 to 96 (v1 to v2) it's the only section for ring/bore spec , if it covers your version let me know if you need anything from the bottom end ect

I like to see things being done different but Tbh you'd probably be better off sourcing a 2nd hand turbo engine to drop in . As by the time you've bought all the gaskets,head bolts ect and had the machine work done (hone ,faced ect) . It would probably be cheaper, especially in a scoob that is supposed to run a turbo lump in the first place. I've built a few ej20's but never a na motor ,so can't really help with the na spec or turbo conversion. Im Unsure what type of materials the pistons and rods are made of too ? So have no idea if they're the same as wrx ones or whether they're made from weaker materials and whether they will handle standard boost (let alone once mapped). Ring gaps would vary pending on piston material and target h.p . headgasket thickness would be needed to be calculated with knowing the piston bowl and head chamber cc to get the 8.5.1 compression ratio

The usual route for a wrx to get the most hp, before expensive drive train and engine work upgrades would be. ... Panel filter Pink 565cc injectors (from a newage sti) Bigger turbo (from a newage sti) Up pipe without a pre cat (aftermarket or sti) Sti tmic. Sports or de cat . 3 port boost solinoid. All those "mapped in" should see 330hp ish ,which is about the limit for the wrx standard non forged engine and 5 speed drive train . Try to go much more than that and you'll need to be saving for a forged engine (£4k+) and a 6 speed box (£2k just for the box) 😉

Hi n welcome, first thing that springs to mind would be to check all earth's are making good contact and free from corrosion. Think There's two on the inlet manifold for the engine loom and 1 attached to the starter motor bolt . If they're still attached, try giving them a clean to see if that helps your symptoms.

Hi n welcome to s.o.c , i dare say the grip n power are quite a step up from the polo . Glad to hear another classic will be getting some tlc 😎 Feel free to start a build thread , to show us your progress once you get started

Think the main reason people upgrade to sti pinks is cos the bug /blob wrx's had smaller blue 440cc injectors as standard . For some reason 440 cc injectors in a bug onwards, only tend to make 320 to 330 hp (up to 350hp in some classics) Personally if your car is running well, i wouldn't see the point in fitting pinks. As they're the same cc as your dark blue hawk injectors ,Unless you want to get the 2nd hand ones cleaned and refitted with new seals for piece of mind , i can't see there's anything to gain at your hp target .

I'm not 100% on my hawk wrx spec but fairly sure they run dark blue 565cc as standard . I know the lighter blue bug /blob are 450 ish cc and those are generally capable of 330hp with supporting mods. So might be worth googling what size you have as standard , or just going for second hand "sti pinks " good for 360hp ish

Could just be that the coolant system wasn't bled fully after the new rad was fitted . Airlocks are fairly common if care isn't taken when refilling the coolant systems , so it could just be that the air has now worked its way out of the system . keep a eye on the levels and temp gauge ,maybe check that all heater matrix and top and bottom rad hoses are getting hot when the fans have cut in . This would check that there's not any other airlocks in the system stopping coolant flow .

I've ran mahle pistons in my ej20 cdb for 40k miles at 360 hp , so can definitely recommend them from personal experience. I think the general opinion is that a semi closed deck is good for 450hp , so using components for that target in that deck type makes sense to me . As buying more expensive rods and pistons rated to over 500hp ,would be a waste of money . @Tidgy Yeah , my "causes list " for ringland failure was just from a engineering point of view and not "ej specific " 😉 I'd imagine the 2.5's bigger sleeves might also have a effect on block strength and heat dissipation ,along with the longer throw on the crank used to increase displacement. uk and jdm ej207's run the same piston material but fairly sure, i read the later ej20 sti twin scroll's use different material (so didn't know if the later 2.5's do too) I'm not entirely up to scratch on my blob onwards spec and I certainly don't have any personal 2.5ltr experience. If i was building myself another engine it would be a 2.5 cdb with 14mm headstuds and a 2ltr crank to "destroker" it . As for the o.p I'd suggest to email a few companies in the uk ,to ask their opinion on whats best for your budget and target. Then price match the results ,rather than just buying off their websites 😉 Here's a few that know their subarus and will take the time to be helpful . A.s performance. Advanced automotive . Lateral performance. Import car parts. Best of luck and keep us posted 👍