savage bulldogs

Don't know much about the N.A scoobs tbh . Bear in mind a good condition sensor reading out of it's parameters due to another fault could also be the reason for a code . Ie o2 readings could be out due to a intake air leak , clogged air filter, electrical fault ,misfiring, unmapped mods ect

No problem bud, glad you've sorted (most of ) the issues and hope it hasn't put you off scoobs .

Although most colour code splitters and plastic trims ,I quite like the look of the early oe black plastics (gives a bit of contrast colour) . Being unpainted also means that they don't get stone chips either 😉 Thanks stu , i will admit it's nice looking at 2 on the drive 😎 But know i can't afford to run them both forever 😕 The bug sti definitely feels more refined with its linear power delivery , the v1sti is "savage" in comparison ,even though its only running 30 hp ish more than the bug 😊

Not really much of a update tbh as all I've been doing is cleaning it and driving it but here's a few pics of it at local shows along with a couple of it on the driveway with the other v7 sti "project" 😊 Hopefully late summer early autumn, I'll get chance to get it off the road , too get the inlet manifold de lugged and powder coated along with the cusco h brace and rear lateral links .Then fit the billet rails ,parallel fuel lines ,fuel lab fpr .Along with the whiteline anti lift kit and a few superpro bushes . Not that im after chasing ponies but if it's not broke ..... upgrade it 😊

Both the brands nick mentioned are very good quality, I'd just add "viper" to the list . As i think they're slightly cheaper and stants bought some for his phase 1.5 engined turbo fozzy and seemed happy with them 😉

Unfortunately i haven't had to remove a sump while the engines in situ , so can't really be much help. I think it can be done in situ , maybe mr b can help with that though ? I can tell you that subaru only use liquid gasket sealer (threebond) to seal the sump on from the factory . I tend to use a group n cork sump gasket , although some say the only reason you should use those is if you think the sump will need to be removed again . Mine has done nearly 40 k without leaking and thought I'd mention it , as if you're gonna try to fix it in situ it might be difficult to get everything oil free (for the sealant to take) and a neat bead of sealant to stay in place while refitting . Id definitely suggest you give the camshaft oil and avcs seals on that side a good check to make sure they're not leaking , as if they've done the oil pump (wrong) they might have done the other seals at the same time , with the same shoddy workmanship.

Yep dyno afr is usually done via a probe in the end of the exhaust. the wideband o2 sensor should be horizontal or above . As this lessens the chance of moisture sitting or pooling in the sensor .

There's quite a few factors that could cause a variation in sensor readings , including the fact that the factory o2 is narrow band and aftermarket sensors tend to be wideband . Sensor age , is the factory position one the original. Sensor location , too close to the turbo can cause a much hotter and more turbulent gass flow . Also if there's any leaks in the exhaust system between the 2 sensors locations could also cause a difference in readings . My aem digital x wideband runs a bosh sensor (good quality) and has a preheat and calibration function to check the sensors readings . I normally do get regular dyno health checks just to be on the safe side though

Think a lot of the social side to cars has gone over to social media and I'm a member of quite a few f.b groups . Think local f.b groups play a part for local meets and shows . Forums tend to be a better place to find the right tech info , eaiser to locate past conversations/threads and do tend to offer a better way of moderation, which weans out the trolls and nasty comments. Think the main hurdle on here is that the active members are spread across the country, which makes it difficult to arrange local meets (social side of scoobs) . Although there is a few local meets in the regional sections that have more active members . Most do make the effort to meet up at japshow and japshow finale at santa pod , As it's fairly central . My particular area (east Anglia) doesn't seem to have very many active members , anyways. you are more than welcome to chuck up a "anyone fancy a meet " post in your region section , if the local social scooby thing is what your after . Hopefully it might tempt a few members local to you to go to a meet .

Nice choice david 👍 Bet you're itching to drive it ,bud

You could try looking for signs the block halves have been split ( marks on the block bolts , fresh sealant poking between the block halves ect ) Or if your receipts list forged pistons use a endoscope to look at the piston crowns, to see if they are the ones the receipts say are fitted. The only real way to be sure its a 2.1 stroker is to take the sump off to see if it's got a 2.5 ltr crank and check what rods are fitted .Along with knowing what pistons are fitted by either using a endoscope or whipping the heads off . As a 2.1 stroker is basically a 2ltr with a 2.5 ltr crank and 2mm ish shorter rods or pistons . Crank increases the lenght of the "stroke", shorter rods or pistons stop the piston crowns poking outta the deck face too far 😉

Thought I'd post this in here as there was only 2 subarus there , mine and another v1sti ,As your car has to be pre 96. It's a local face book group called east coast retros and seeing as i like most things petrol and retro I've been to a few of their meets in the past . Didn't take too many pics and the ones i did take ain't the best but there was 202 cars turned up with everything from Ferraris to feistas , yank tanks and v dubs . The black mk2 cortina was runnin a 2ltr turbo cossie lump and i can't remember the last time i saw a old skool alpina 3.5 ltr beemer 😎 Not too shabby a meet for Wednesday evening 😊

I've completely given up with tapatalk lately , as it was asking for too much info and buggy as fook . Which is a shame as it was a handy app for notifications and instant p.m's . I've just been logging in to s.o.c direct on my phone instead for a couple of months now

Got home early today and im taking the v1sti to a local retro meet tomorrow evening, so seeing as there was a bit of cloud cover i thought it would be rude not to wash n wax the scoobs Been enjoying the refinement of the bug sti whilst running it in lately 😎 So haven't driven the v1 for a week or so but soon as i hopped back into the v1sti, i remembered why she's a keeper . Proppa drivers car and she's a bit of a animal in comparison 😊

The 50 mile change sounds like it gets rid of the machining burrs, similar to the heat cycling method . you didn't have any standard or actuated boost until after 1k either alex ? I definitely agree the loads need to gradually increase, whether using boost or not . As that's the way most na engines are run in anyways . Nice too see other methods used but as tidgy says "if its not broke don't fix it" Although my other thread is more of a .... " if it's not broke take it apart and either clean it or upgrade it "🙄😂🤣

I wasn't saying s.c did the 1k 1 change no boost method by the way, Just that was a method I'd seen suggested and thought having oil with the initial start up filings in for that long wasn't a good idea 😉 Along with the build it , thrash it at the other end of the scale too ,which seems far too harsh for a road build imo . Dunno what subaru do from new ? Bench run to heat cycle , new owner gradually build revs , bit of both with a 1k change ? But the 1k run in without any boost is generally considered a bit old hat when using new technology tri coated bearings .Not that there's nothing wrong with with old tech , i still run tried n tested apexi f.c in my v1 lol . During my research proir to my first build, I'd settled on a "happy medium" method that had been used by numerous qualified and experienced performance engine builders . It also made sense to me from a engineering point of view . A combination of heat cycling the engine whilst stationary to remove initial machining burrs and changing the oil , then getting some decent heat into the pistons and rings with actuated (low boost) with low revs . Then finally putting higher boost low down and letting the engine hit higher revs at part throttle. The logic is that the pistons will get much hotter when using boost , causing them to expand and push the rings against the bore walls more . In turn completing the running in ,whilst the running in oil is in for the shorter period . although my v1 build hasn't been pushed for power , due to me trying to keep a sub £2k budget for engine , turbo and injectors. It's done a proven 38k over 5 yrs without any issues , unfortunately i don't know where the other engines I've built over the years are or how many miles they've done now tbh . If you asked the same question on a performance engine building forum you'd probably get at least 3 different answers and start the equivalent of a face book subaru page "what oil should i use " thread 😂. So it's not a wrong or right type discussion ,just a personal preference thing imo 👍

Yes bud there's certainly plenty of opinions out there and definitely different ways needed for different spec 👍 Someone suggested 1k mile with 1 oil change and no boost but that just doesn't make mechanical sense to me . As i wouldn't want leave all those metal filings in the oil while running in. Just seems a bit strange not use boost while running in, then slap proppa oil in and just map it at full throttle without it ever seeing boost or wot before 🤔 I'd maybe understand it if its a complete new engine , valves , valve stems ,lash caps ect at the top end . This would mean you'd need a more gradual running in process by slowly bringing up the rpms over time but I'd still like to see more oil changes imo. Don't get me wrong though chap , i know you trust s.c and many of their satisfied customers do too , after all they've built plenty of engines . I'm just a enthusiast with a few engineering and mechanical qualifications (that's currently a plasterer by trade) that builds engines on the kitchen table for the love of it 😂

When using "race tri coated bearings" they bed in much faster , so you only have to worry about the rings and bore burrs left by honing early on during the running in process. I did 3 heat cycles, oil change (gets rid of the honing burrs) ,250 miles at actuated boost low in the rev range then oil change , 250 miles full boost low in the rev range but bringing the revs high without boost . Then proppa oil , map and smiles per miles . 1k miles without any boost isn't any good for a boosted engine, as it needs the cylinder pressure to help the rings "bed in " properly 😉 But yes ,it's still a pain not being able to use the car to its full potential yet 😕

Had a nice weekend away with the family and decided to take the bug instead of the v1 sti, to get some running in miles done 😉 Pleased to say , it's now done 185 miles without missing a beat or using any fluids 😎 . Although it has 18's and b.c's it was fairly comfy, even 4 up with a boot full of stuff . Certianly feels more refined than my animal v1sti. Still needs a good polish and wax but it's far too warm for that atm 😊 once I've detailed it, I'll chuck some pics on here though 😉

Think it's pre 91(H reg) cars that didn't leave the factory with a cat, that don't need a cat to pass a mot . 92 (k reg) onwards need a cat regardless of where they were imported from here in the uk . I have a spare sports cat , which passes mot emissions , some garages will let cars pass with a decat but it's probably best not to name them on a public forum , bud 😉

Think some run wider wheels on the back compared to the front , so doubt it would matter if you only run front spacers . I just thought I'd keep the width the same . I haven't got spigot rings on my rotas , so can't help there bud . My spacers were £20 a pair from a local motormainia store and were only supposed to be a temporary fix but 2 yrs on they're still doing their job lol

Will admit the 2.5 ltrs do get a bad rep when pushed for power ,as they do tend to suffer from headgasket and ringland failure more than the 2ltrs . The later 5 speeds seem to handle more hp than the earlier ones (350hp ish) but the added torque of the 2.5 can tend to push close to the limits of a 5 speed . 6 speed is the most comon upgrade at £1.5k for just the box (no labour) , then most save for a forged build (£5k) just in case the stock block goes pop . But I'd suggest to speak to your mapper about the best route and power limit for your block and drivetrain, before buying any parts .

If it's a ej207 conversion they're good for 450hp ish . I'd recommend ditching the cob stage generic flash map and consider spending out on a suitable live mappable ecu .As that would be bespoke to your set up and safely get the most for your mods . Suspension wise personal preference and usage plays a big part in the route and choices . Generally fully adjustable coilovers that are over £700 are fairly good for fast road, decent droplinks (front n rear) , rear adjustable arb , camber bolts and a anti lift kit . Will enable you to put the power down better and improve handling to a good level for a road car . If your wanting to go low id maybe add a rollcenter correction kit to help dial out the bump steer too . If the rest of your cash is still burning a hole in your pocket . Then sti ally wishbones and a full oe bush refresh for road use , id only say fully polly bush for track use (quite harsh for the road)

Hi n welcome, Nice looking example you've got there 😎

I'm not too clued up on 2.5 spec but with the 2ltrs , to break the 300hp mark (on top of the mods you have) most fit .... Sti turbo , sti injectors ,sti tmic and sti up pipe (as the bug /blob wrx have a pre cat in the up pipe ) Unsure if the 2.5 ltrs have a pre cat or if there's any difference in the sti inlet manifold, other than if the non sti has tgv's ? (Which i think can be deleted on your existing manifold if so) Hopefully someone who knows their latter scooby spec can help