savage bulldogs

Might be worth whipping the covers off and checking the timing marks, just in case the belts slipped due to a worn tensioner. Did you use the right grade plugs ,ngk heat 6's for standard or heat 7's when modified. Definitely plugged the coilpacks in the right way on each bank . With 2 cylinders not firing at all ,it's strange you've not got any codes tbh .

Washed it and went to a local retro meet upset a middle aged man in a Porsche on the slip lane on the way home . Don't think he expected my 24yr old scooby to leave him for dust in 3rd and 4th 😊 He didn't look happy with his expensive mid life crisis purchase, When he over took me, as i stopped accelerating at 70 . Old scoobys never die .... they just get quicker 😉

There's a buyers guide for common issues (think it's in the impreza section) Most things apply to both bug n blob tbh. Rust areas are rear arches , suspension turrets and inner sills .front lower crossmember and u brace (subframe) Rear shocks knock at low speed when worn. Hear it start from cold ,to check for piston slap and smoking . Avoid cars with a Lack of Good regular oil changes and ones with mods that haven't got proof of being mapped . Good luck with the search 👍

You'd normally loose spark on all cylinders if crank or cam sensors were at fault . Are you definitely getting spark just on the 2 front cylinders? . Have you tried swapping coilpacks from front to back to see if the misfire changes cylinders ? Main Engine loom plugs (either end near battery and boost solinoid) and earths making a good connection ? Spark plugs in good condition?

Nice looking example, would gladly cast a eye over it but im in south suffolk so probably too far just to pop in . Feel free to either post some pics of the receipts /list them on here or pm them and I'll let you know whats listed or missed off the normal upgrade path and services . As for the ipswich local meets they're the 3rd tuesday of every month , they also have a Norwich meet on the 1st Tuesday of every moth too . Feel free to pm me about those too .

Well not been much point updating this thread as i haven't done anything other than drive it ( 2k and counting) 😊 Decided not to put the bug sti up for sale until spring /summer next year , so its left me with a tough choice every day, ....... which scoob to drive 🤔 But Today it's been the bug 😉

Did the garage "jack" the throttle body butterfly open when doing the compression test? As if the throttle cable or wiring (if its drive by wire) isn't opening the butterfly ,it won't allow any air in too compress . If it has avcs did you disturb the oil lines or sensors when removing the inlet ? Are you sure it was tgv problems in the first place and not a compression issue ?

My scoob was proppa filthy by the time we got there, glad i spent about 10hrs cleaning it 😏 Still enjoyed it and good to meet the few i spoke too and sorry too the one's i didn't get chance too chat with . Took a couple of "hurried" pics of the stand , so sorry if i didn't get everyone's scoob in . I'll try to make the effort to get too a few more s.o.c show stands next year though 😉

Nice to see you've still got the waggon and been busy james , looking good chap 👍

Well thats you ,me and my youngest daughter.. .... shame she can't drive , cos I'd get her to bring the bug sti to help fill the stand lol

I'm still going, unless everyone else isn't going as i don't wanna be a 1 man stand lol

Hopefully you've just missed a plug or chassis earth on assembly , have you checked fuses and ecu plugs, no coolant spillage near any electrics while changing the matrix ?

Hope you get it sorted soon Geoff and hopefully it will sort your sticky caliper issue out too

Got a bit carried away with cleaning for japshow finale next weekend and ended up cleaning the arches (to keep the tin worm away) and the front arches are still in good nick for a 24yr old daily 😎 while searching for my ally polish, i found a bag of stickers from a few of the parts I've bought over the years . I'm not one for stickers normally but thought I'd chuck em on the rad cooling panel in the bay . Haven't quite made my mind up if they'll be staying but here's a few pics.

Normally ngk irridium heat 6's for standard and heat 7's for modded

Cheers chap 👍 Only supposed to be waxing the v1 for japshow finale but My ocd got the better of me and i ended up giving the arches a clean and sealing the wheels lol .

Boost solinoid clean and ecu reset might be worth a go ,as well as checking if the plugs are all the same colour and the right colour . I don't actually know technically whats the "g" stands for but its a way of measuring the turbo compressor (coldside) wheel, 16g is stock size and 18g is slightly bigger. Ie . ... A tdo5 16g (stock subaru) will spool earlier but flow slightly less air at say 1 bar . A tdo5 18g (aftermarket) will spool a bit later (more lag) but will flow more air per minute at the same 1bar . So it would make higher max hp but higher in the rev range and be less responsive (laggier) due to having a bigger 18g wheel

Could be numerous things , no ecu codes ? Are the spark plugs due soon , colour and condition can help pin point a cylinder misfiring or general running issues . If they are due a change ,most switch to heat 7's when modified . Do you have a boost gauge ? A boost leak could cause a lack in power. I'd definitely get it running right as standard before modding or mapping it , bud .As it might save a lot of dyno / mapping time 😉

Im in east Anglia, so can't really help but hopefully someone more local to you can recommend a reputable tuner near by . Best of luck with the search 👍 Edited in .... Dunno how south west you are but the only 1 i can think of is Alan Jefferies @ enginetuner in Plymouth.

Not much of a update but the windscreen will be fitted this monday coming. Which should hopefully give me enough time to slap a coat of wax on her in time for japshow finale at santa pod the following sunday 😊. Although I've enjoyed driving it this year , instead of pulling it apart every 5 mins 🙄 It will be coming off road for the winter , to try and keep the salt off the paintwork. hopefully it will also give me the time to delug the inlet manifold and get it powder coated , maybe even finally fit the billet fuel rails and parallel fuel lines I've had for nearly 2 yrs 😂

Hi n welcome, unfortunately there's not many gains to be had from remapping a non turbo . Think theyre about 160hp as standard which isn't bad for a 2ltr na . Most na owners tend to concentrate on handling, lightening and braking mods . To make the most of the low centre of gravity boxer layout and awd system ,instead of spending £600 ish to gain 15hp by remapping . A first gen (classic) would probably be 200kg lighter ,so might make a better option /hill climb time .you'd have to google to see if there's any difference in 0 to 60 times to be sure though . Probably shouldn't say this lol but another option would be to speak to a mate of mine @ g19 engineering . As Doug does mx5 turbo conversions for about £2k all in .

No problem bud, just try not to get too hung up on pub figures. A friend had a type r with a gt30 that made over 400hp but my £50 td05 at 330hp used to beat it hands down . Mine hit 1 bar at 3k and pulled to the red , his hit 1bar at 5.5k and lit the tyres in 1st to 5th at 6k .😉

Vf35/34 and pink injectors is the usual route ,as thats what's fitted to bug and blob sti's. Once you've fitted a bigger turbo and been remapped you might end up having to renew the clutch ,if its the original and worn it might start to slip shortly afterwards .Also might find you need to upgrade the brakes to reign in the extra ponies from a bigger turbo . So really it depends on budget and what you want from the car . As a remapped tdo4 could get you a quick spooling 290hp (ie faster in 1st to 3rd) , which might suit your needs more than 330hp thats not as responsive. Think my tdo4 was a tdo4 L but that was on a 97 uk turbo .

Pm'd Geoff 😉

Yep , im up for a stand spot on sunday , mrs is coming along too . Will i have to buy her ticket direct from the pod , at the gate or from you Geoff?