savage bulldogs

Sorry to hear it let go so soon into ownership 😕 Harvey trick up pipes are made by a.s performance and are bore matched to your headers and turbo to increase flow and spool. The v1sti's a animal as for mods , its well over engineered for it's current power but tbh it's plenty quick enough at it's current power . Have a squint at my sticky build thread ,as it would take too long to list what ive done lol

Depends on the type of splitter tbh but i think most newage splitters wont come that far up the bumper . Darren at abw does a fairly wide selection, although I'm not sure if they require painting and if so you could get the bumper done at the same time

What's the car gonna be used for , ie road ,track ,rally ect ? As baffled sump ,swirl pot ,uprated fuel pump ,aos ect are needed for hard driving ,to protect the engine from oil and fuel starvation. Don't mean to sound like "scabby net"😶 but just in case your not aware, the classic drivetrain and brakes will also need to be upgraded at over 330hp for longevity (@ probably about £2k in parts alone) As tidgy said syvecs is the best but deep pockets are needed lol . Although aclertek /simtek do have quite a few features, personally I'd steer clear of those due to a lack of aftersales service . Esl is about the cheapest option ,with motorsport functions for v3 onwards but not many "decent" mappers use opensource software, due to aftersales longevity. Link does sound like a good medium priced option but I'd suggest to find a reputable mapper that suits your needs /location . Then ask if they deal with link and if not what they recommend for your level of tune /needs . Spool can be affected by numerous things ,so a full list of mods and turbo budget would be usefull before making a turbo decision. At 350 hp newage sti tmic would reduce lag compared to a fmic , good quality aftermarket headers and matched "harvey trick up pipe" would also help increase spool . New turbo Cheapest option for over 350hp which would handle the anti lag abuse would probably be a tdo5 18g. Otherwise md , owen developments or s.c series all of which are £1.5 k and above plus fitting . I'm using a £150 second hand aps sr40 (gt28 stock location) which made 359.9 hp on my v1 sti , so there's lots of options tbh . Just steer clear of cheap ebay copies 😉

Seeing as most of the active members on here go to this ,I normally make the time and effort to go . It's a bit far off atm so haven't a clue what my workload will be at the time or which scoob I'll bring 🤔 As i do have a habit of randomly pulling my cars to bits ,even when there's nothing wrong with them 🙄 But I've had the nod off the mrs , so fairly sure ill be there , whats the cut off date for stand tickets Geoff ?

Hi n welcome to s.o.c ,Will Nice looking example you've got there , I'm in south suffolk and normally wave at every scoob i see but I'll keep a eye out for ya 😊

Great attention to detail ,very jelly of the engineering equipment and programmes you have to hand . As i can use cad , cnc and weld to a iso standard but don't have access to the equipment 😕 Are you gonna make the loom yourself, or use someone like jtinnovation to knock it up from your diagrams? Hope you're on the mend soon chap , i know all too well how a physical injury can hold you back and be very frustrating when you have scooby things to do 🙄

Well we took the bug on a family holiday and pleased to say with 4 up and a boot full of stuff ,the trip from Suffolk to Wales was a pleasure and it's now done nearly 1.5k miles since the rebuild 😎 It's been eating up the welsh b roads with ease and credit to the bob rawle map, for the nice balance of power and economy . Weather's been mostly dry but what little rain we had over night bounced off the bug ,anyways 😂 Lovely view from the master bedroom of the cottage we've rented too 😊

Considering the fresh rebuild , b.c coilovers , £1k speedline turini's ,low mileage and 3 owners . I'll be putting it up for £7.5k ovno , bud

Think i read that the box is a 22b only item but wouldn't know if lateral links ,hubs ,trailing arms ect are the same due to the wider body (possibly) changing the track or width of running gear . Luke Gillespie from import car parts would certainly know , either give him a call or drop him a email and I'm sure he would be able to answer your questions.

Hi n welcome to s.o.c , what a great choice of scooby and feel free to post some pics 😉 I'm unsure what version they're based on tbh but a pic of the bay would help with that . About the only real differences between 22b and a classic type r is .... They're a 2.2ltr instead of a 2ltr and they have a wider body , although I'm not sure if the "track" is wider too . Most of us use luke @ import car parts for all things oe subaru and if he doesn't have what you need in stock , he'll probably either be able to order it in or point you in the right direction. All the best with the refresh and feel free to keep us updated with the progress 👍

Hi dan , personal preference, budget and usage will all play a part in what would be the "best subaru" for you . Saying that , I'll have a 52 plate wrx sti type UK up for sale soon . With a forged 450hp capable engine ,6 speed box and brembos as standard from the factory it's a very capable 4 door family car . Its got 78k and 3 previous owners but It won't be forsale until September ish. It won't need anything mechanical doing for a long time, due to the recent mechanical overhaul inc... engine rebuild ,cambelt, clutch and radiator . Here's a link to it and the work thats been done to it , let me know if you're interested. All the best ,with the search 👍 Clive

The fronts definitely fit ,not too sure about the rears though but as marshffs said just make sure you have the classic rails too . If you don't get on with them let me know ,as I'm thinking of fitting sti classic seats back into my v1sti . I would swap my hatch sti front seats for a clean front n rear classic sti set 😉

Generally i like the idea of new bits for the scoob but yet again it's not me working on it 😕 My insurance company are gonna love me ,when i tell them i need a new front windscreen after just getting it back from the bodyshop 🙄 Don't get me wrong i do like the way the bug drives and it's certainly no slouch either but there's something about the classic, that just makes it feel more of a drivers car . More nimble and raw ,especially with close to 300hp per tonne and no abs 😊 Well she's been demoted to the back garden "spot" for now as we're off too Wales for a week soon in the bug sti. Hopefully I'll get the windscreen sorted shortly after we get back and I'll get chance to enjoy the bug on the road trip.

Well fml , guess when that muppet hit the scoob a few months back it must've cracked the edge of the front windscreen under the trim . As i woke up this morning to find a crack across the passengers side of the windscreen, No sign of any impact from a stone chip and it definitely wasn't there yesterday when i was driving it 🤔 Can only assume it's happened as the sun heated it up this morning ffs 😠

Well the running in is complete at last😎 So out with the old millers running in oil and filter in with the millers cfcs and mahle filter 😊 Although its sounding sweet and running well ,I'll Hopefully get it up to attowes for a dyno health check soon 😉

Don't know much about the N.A scoobs tbh . Bear in mind a good condition sensor reading out of it's parameters due to another fault could also be the reason for a code . Ie o2 readings could be out due to a intake air leak , clogged air filter, electrical fault ,misfiring, unmapped mods ect

No problem bud, glad you've sorted (most of ) the issues and hope it hasn't put you off scoobs .

Although most colour code splitters and plastic trims ,I quite like the look of the early oe black plastics (gives a bit of contrast colour) . Being unpainted also means that they don't get stone chips either 😉 Thanks stu , i will admit it's nice looking at 2 on the drive 😎 But know i can't afford to run them both forever 😕 The bug sti definitely feels more refined with its linear power delivery , the v1sti is "savage" in comparison ,even though its only running 30 hp ish more than the bug 😊

Not really much of a update tbh as all I've been doing is cleaning it and driving it but here's a few pics of it at local shows along with a couple of it on the driveway with the other v7 sti "project" 😊 Hopefully late summer early autumn, I'll get chance to get it off the road , too get the inlet manifold de lugged and powder coated along with the cusco h brace and rear lateral links .Then fit the billet rails ,parallel fuel lines ,fuel lab fpr .Along with the whiteline anti lift kit and a few superpro bushes . Not that im after chasing ponies but if it's not broke ..... upgrade it 😊

Both the brands nick mentioned are very good quality, I'd just add "viper" to the list . As i think they're slightly cheaper and stants bought some for his phase 1.5 engined turbo fozzy and seemed happy with them 😉

Unfortunately i haven't had to remove a sump while the engines in situ , so can't really be much help. I think it can be done in situ , maybe mr b can help with that though ? I can tell you that subaru only use liquid gasket sealer (threebond) to seal the sump on from the factory . I tend to use a group n cork sump gasket , although some say the only reason you should use those is if you think the sump will need to be removed again . Mine has done nearly 40 k without leaking and thought I'd mention it , as if you're gonna try to fix it in situ it might be difficult to get everything oil free (for the sealant to take) and a neat bead of sealant to stay in place while refitting . Id definitely suggest you give the camshaft oil and avcs seals on that side a good check to make sure they're not leaking , as if they've done the oil pump (wrong) they might have done the other seals at the same time , with the same shoddy workmanship.

Yep dyno afr is usually done via a probe in the end of the exhaust. the wideband o2 sensor should be horizontal or above . As this lessens the chance of moisture sitting or pooling in the sensor .

There's quite a few factors that could cause a variation in sensor readings , including the fact that the factory o2 is narrow band and aftermarket sensors tend to be wideband . Sensor age , is the factory position one the original. Sensor location , too close to the turbo can cause a much hotter and more turbulent gass flow . Also if there's any leaks in the exhaust system between the 2 sensors locations could also cause a difference in readings . My aem digital x wideband runs a bosh sensor (good quality) and has a preheat and calibration function to check the sensors readings . I normally do get regular dyno health checks just to be on the safe side though

Think a lot of the social side to cars has gone over to social media and I'm a member of quite a few f.b groups . Think local f.b groups play a part for local meets and shows . Forums tend to be a better place to find the right tech info , eaiser to locate past conversations/threads and do tend to offer a better way of moderation, which weans out the trolls and nasty comments. Think the main hurdle on here is that the active members are spread across the country, which makes it difficult to arrange local meets (social side of scoobs) . Although there is a few local meets in the regional sections that have more active members . Most do make the effort to meet up at japshow and japshow finale at santa pod , As it's fairly central . My particular area (east Anglia) doesn't seem to have very many active members , anyways. you are more than welcome to chuck up a "anyone fancy a meet " post in your region section , if the local social scooby thing is what your after . Hopefully it might tempt a few members local to you to go to a meet .

Nice choice david 👍 Bet you're itching to drive it ,bud