savage bulldogs

Steer clear of cheap new turbos ,bud .you definitely get what you pay for 😉 Second hand subaru fitment tdo5 16g (Mitsubishi made) cost between £150 to £200 . Vf 35/34 /43 expect to pay around £350. Sti pink injectors are about £100 2nd hand . Try a reputable breaker ,like matt baker at mbdevelopements on f.b if you want to keep the cost down and buy second hand . The only new "cheap" sub £800 turbo manufacturers that some people have used is kinugwa and mamba but depending on who you talk to , some say they're rubbish too . I only have personal experience with a tdo4 (made 265hp). Paid £50 for a top entry tdo5 (made 347hp) Paid £150 for my current apssr40 (made 360 hp) But i do have a lot of supporting mods 😉

As ghost said , have a look in the tech section at the sticky thread on how to self check for ecu codes and reset the ecu . Unfortunately i haven't doen electrical tests on later classics and don't have a service manual for the v5/v6 , so can't help with voltage readings. The idle control valve and maf can be cleaned with electrical contact or brake cleaner , both of which tend to "gunk up". Just bear in mind ,You'll probably need a new gasket for the icv (from import car parts) if you do remove it to clean it .

Double check that you've got a tdo4 first , by either googling it or looking on the coldside (silver part of the turbo) as I'm not 100% up to scratch on my blob onwards spec . Not sure if the ppp has a precat in the up pipe ? But if so either a aftermarket up pipe or sti up pipe would be worth fitting while doing the turbo ,as it will help spool . Most front entry subaru fitment single scroll turbos are a straight swap but the usual route is either a tdo5 (cheapest ) or vf35/vf34 or vf43 .just beware of cheap copies and try to get the water lines , oil lines and banjo bolts with the turbo . Your standard injectors should be good for 320 hp ish but sti "pinks" would match the hp of the turbos above @ about 330 to 350 hp ish .

Most mappers would recommend fitting a pump prior to mapping as upping the boost requires more fuel and can put strain on a old pump . You can fit a decat and drive off boost but you should remap asap ,as the boost controll system and oe settings will struggle to keep the boost levels in check . Due to the less restrictive catless downpipe and this could cause the boost to come in earlier or hit higher peak values ,which the oe fueling map can't compensate for (running lean/ fuel cut due to overboost). Think the ppp wrx is supposed to run 265hp standard and use the tdo4 ? If so you probably won't see a great hike in hp ,as the tdo4 generally maxes out at 290 hp ish but you should see better drivability (boost coming in sooner ) and economy off boost . So unless you want to fit a bigger turbo and injectors to break the 300hp mark , id add a oil change and spark plugs to the mod list , unless they've been changed recently Best of luck with the remap , fella

Sounds like it will be a capable track car once run in and assume it's had drivetrain swap to handle the power . Things like ally wishbones and bonnet are standard on early jdm wrxs and adjustable suspension and braces can cost from £300 (cheap crap) to about £3k (top notch) . Ecu's from £600 esl map to £3k for syvecs and toucan display . From what your saying about the circle of deep pockets, you'd assume its had at least medium expense aftermarket parts . You never get back the labour and lucky to get back half the cost of parts when selling a car you've built . I'm personally finding it difficult to help with a price , as I've never bought a "track car " and always work /build my own engines and cars . Think you'll have to decide whether you're gonba take a leap of Faith and what "you " want to spend on it ,then keep a little back for paintwork and mapping when making a offer . A scooby breaker would need to know the exact spec ,brands and age of parts before making a offer but if he's willing to list all that ? Asking a breaker what it's worth might be the fairest way to get a figure that you can both agree on . Insurance, I'm with flux and pay a little less for my 360hp v1sti , once you have a detailed spec sheet the price can go either way a bit . We do have a discount with them so be sure to mention that and make sure you get a "agreed value policy" . Or most insurers will offer you book price (£2.5k) regardless of what you paid for the car and it's listed mods . Trust me i know lol . Best of luck , feel free to keep us updated and maybe chuck up a few pics if you do buy it

As mentioned earlier the classic drivetrain isn't gonna last long at over 330hp . cheapest upgrade path is a ty54 hawk 5 speed, good for high 300's ish (about £400 in parts ) 6 speed is the usual route ,good for over 600 hp (about £1.5k in parts ) As for engine, if its had a recent rebuild by clinic the receipt should detail whats been done and at what cost .but if the deck type is open or the pistons haven't been changed ,i wouldn't push it past mid 300hp tbh (as it's pretty much standard spec) The money spent doesn't always add the same to value ,hence why I mentioned tidgy's highly modded type r . As although it was a lovely spec'd car ,unfortunately you're normally lucky if you get back half the money you put into a "modded" motor . Think the general "jist" that we're all trying to put across ,isn't that your friend is trying to pull the wool .just that we wouldn't want to advise someone to buy a modded scoob ,without knowing its spec or warning them of possible costly issues that could arise shortly after getting the engine running over 330hp . I haven't bought a gc8 for about 7 yrs , as I've been busy with the 1 ive got lol . But clean mildly modded jdm wrx's seem to be for sale at £2.5k to £3k . Clean jdm sti's from £3k to £5k . What model yours is or what mildly modded ones are actually selling for , im afraid i don't know. Ball park without knowing its full model ,spec and a bit of cosmetic damage but bearing in mind it might need..... a mapable ecu ,mapping and drivetrain upgrade work ,shortly after purchase Somewhere between £2.5k and £4k ?maybe a bit more if it's had a ecu change ,drivetrain upgrade and decent spec build .

Ok bud , I'll try to commit to coming as early as possible,To not miss out on a stand place . I only had a week away in Wales and my customers are going skitz atm 🙄

You could pick up a 2nd hand 2.5 sti engine for about £1.2k , so as tidgy said spec of the build would affect the price . As the 2.5 ltr engine is standard guise are more prone to headgasket and ringland failure, so if its just had new headgaskets or a standard spec build It's not likely to add a great deal of value. Although its sounds like cosmetic paint damage Being a m reg (95 chassis) rust is another thing to look out for . Inner rear arches and suspension turrets tend to rust from the inside out (so can look ok from the outside) inner sills and crossmember beneath raditor are another place they tend to go . If these areas are rot free it's still a bit difficult to value due to being used as a track car ,As resale values can be limited due to the parts missing or modified for track use . The type of gc8 shell can also add /loose value ie jdm sti compared to a uk turbo . Then there's the other mods , at 330hp most gc8 5 speeds are on the limit ,so drive train ,brake and suspension mods can all add value (if quality parts are used) . I've seen gc8 "track ready cars " up for as little as £2.5k but they're mainly stripped out standard cars but well built/ modified track cars up for £10k . So it's very difficult for anyone to say how much it's worth ,without knowing the engine and car spec . Tbh i personally couldn't tell you what any track car is realistically worth and only be able to compare it to a modified road car of the same model . Think tidgys modified type r with a 2.5ltr forged closed deck probably set him back over £25k , but doubt he got much more than half that back when selling it.

Don't know much about n/a scoobs tbh but I'd say to check the spark plug condition and colour . As it can tell you quite a bit about how a engine is running and if 1 plug is a different colour it can help diagnose a particular cylinder at fault . On turbo versions with avcs there's a "screen filter" in the avcs oil line banjo bolts. These are fairly prone to blocking and can starve the turbo or avcs solenoids of oil . Which in turn might cause rough running at certain rev ranges , it would normally would be accompanied by a code but might be worth a look . Check Engine earths , sensor plugs and engine loom plugs , as a dodgy connection might cause the multi codes btssm app too

Some of the early pages are of my old v3 uk shell , so might be of use to your build . When the v3 caught tin worm i reshelled my engine and 6 speed into the jdm v1sti. Feel free to start your own build thread too chap 👍

Sorry to hear it let go so soon into ownership 😕 Harvey trick up pipes are made by a.s performance and are bore matched to your headers and turbo to increase flow and spool. The v1sti's a animal as for mods , its well over engineered for it's current power but tbh it's plenty quick enough at it's current power . Have a squint at my sticky build thread ,as it would take too long to list what ive done lol

Depends on the type of splitter tbh but i think most newage splitters wont come that far up the bumper . Darren at abw does a fairly wide selection, although I'm not sure if they require painting and if so you could get the bumper done at the same time

What's the car gonna be used for , ie road ,track ,rally ect ? As baffled sump ,swirl pot ,uprated fuel pump ,aos ect are needed for hard driving ,to protect the engine from oil and fuel starvation. Don't mean to sound like "scabby net"😶 but just in case your not aware, the classic drivetrain and brakes will also need to be upgraded at over 330hp for longevity (@ probably about £2k in parts alone) As tidgy said syvecs is the best but deep pockets are needed lol . Although aclertek /simtek do have quite a few features, personally I'd steer clear of those due to a lack of aftersales service . Esl is about the cheapest option ,with motorsport functions for v3 onwards but not many "decent" mappers use opensource software, due to aftersales longevity. Link does sound like a good medium priced option but I'd suggest to find a reputable mapper that suits your needs /location . Then ask if they deal with link and if not what they recommend for your level of tune /needs . Spool can be affected by numerous things ,so a full list of mods and turbo budget would be usefull before making a turbo decision. At 350 hp newage sti tmic would reduce lag compared to a fmic , good quality aftermarket headers and matched "harvey trick up pipe" would also help increase spool . New turbo Cheapest option for over 350hp which would handle the anti lag abuse would probably be a tdo5 18g. Otherwise md , owen developments or s.c series all of which are £1.5 k and above plus fitting . I'm using a £150 second hand aps sr40 (gt28 stock location) which made 359.9 hp on my v1 sti , so there's lots of options tbh . Just steer clear of cheap ebay copies 😉

Seeing as most of the active members on here go to this ,I normally make the time and effort to go . It's a bit far off atm so haven't a clue what my workload will be at the time or which scoob I'll bring 🤔 As i do have a habit of randomly pulling my cars to bits ,even when there's nothing wrong with them 🙄 But I've had the nod off the mrs , so fairly sure ill be there , whats the cut off date for stand tickets Geoff ?

Hi n welcome to s.o.c ,Will Nice looking example you've got there , I'm in south suffolk and normally wave at every scoob i see but I'll keep a eye out for ya 😊

Great attention to detail ,very jelly of the engineering equipment and programmes you have to hand . As i can use cad , cnc and weld to a iso standard but don't have access to the equipment 😕 Are you gonna make the loom yourself, or use someone like jtinnovation to knock it up from your diagrams? Hope you're on the mend soon chap , i know all too well how a physical injury can hold you back and be very frustrating when you have scooby things to do 🙄

Well we took the bug on a family holiday and pleased to say with 4 up and a boot full of stuff ,the trip from Suffolk to Wales was a pleasure and it's now done nearly 1.5k miles since the rebuild 😎 It's been eating up the welsh b roads with ease and credit to the bob rawle map, for the nice balance of power and economy . Weather's been mostly dry but what little rain we had over night bounced off the bug ,anyways 😂 Lovely view from the master bedroom of the cottage we've rented too 😊

Considering the fresh rebuild , b.c coilovers , £1k speedline turini's ,low mileage and 3 owners . I'll be putting it up for £7.5k ovno , bud

Think i read that the box is a 22b only item but wouldn't know if lateral links ,hubs ,trailing arms ect are the same due to the wider body (possibly) changing the track or width of running gear . Luke Gillespie from import car parts would certainly know , either give him a call or drop him a email and I'm sure he would be able to answer your questions.

Hi n welcome to s.o.c , what a great choice of scooby and feel free to post some pics 😉 I'm unsure what version they're based on tbh but a pic of the bay would help with that . About the only real differences between 22b and a classic type r is .... They're a 2.2ltr instead of a 2ltr and they have a wider body , although I'm not sure if the "track" is wider too . Most of us use luke @ import car parts for all things oe subaru and if he doesn't have what you need in stock , he'll probably either be able to order it in or point you in the right direction. All the best with the refresh and feel free to keep us updated with the progress 👍

Hi dan , personal preference, budget and usage will all play a part in what would be the "best subaru" for you . Saying that , I'll have a 52 plate wrx sti type UK up for sale soon . With a forged 450hp capable engine ,6 speed box and brembos as standard from the factory it's a very capable 4 door family car . Its got 78k and 3 previous owners but It won't be forsale until September ish. It won't need anything mechanical doing for a long time, due to the recent mechanical overhaul inc... engine rebuild ,cambelt, clutch and radiator . Here's a link to it and the work thats been done to it , let me know if you're interested. All the best ,with the search 👍 Clive

The fronts definitely fit ,not too sure about the rears though but as marshffs said just make sure you have the classic rails too . If you don't get on with them let me know ,as I'm thinking of fitting sti classic seats back into my v1sti . I would swap my hatch sti front seats for a clean front n rear classic sti set 😉

Generally i like the idea of new bits for the scoob but yet again it's not me working on it 😕 My insurance company are gonna love me ,when i tell them i need a new front windscreen after just getting it back from the bodyshop 🙄 Don't get me wrong i do like the way the bug drives and it's certainly no slouch either but there's something about the classic, that just makes it feel more of a drivers car . More nimble and raw ,especially with close to 300hp per tonne and no abs 😊 Well she's been demoted to the back garden "spot" for now as we're off too Wales for a week soon in the bug sti. Hopefully I'll get the windscreen sorted shortly after we get back and I'll get chance to enjoy the bug on the road trip.

Well fml , guess when that muppet hit the scoob a few months back it must've cracked the edge of the front windscreen under the trim . As i woke up this morning to find a crack across the passengers side of the windscreen, No sign of any impact from a stone chip and it definitely wasn't there yesterday when i was driving it 🤔 Can only assume it's happened as the sun heated it up this morning ffs 😠

Well the running in is complete at last😎 So out with the old millers running in oil and filter in with the millers cfcs and mahle filter 😊 Although its sounding sweet and running well ,I'll Hopefully get it up to attowes for a dyno health check soon 😉