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savage bulldogs

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Everything posted by savage bulldogs

  1. I have thought about using the a c to cool intake air but seeing as i removed my a.c pump to relocate my alternator, it didn't really get past the "thinking about it stage " ๐Ÿ˜ Think most tend to upgrade to the later newage sti tmic (maybe even with water spray too) or use a methanol/ water injection system ,to bring down charge temps . I like the idea of something different though , so let us know what route you take in the end bud ๐Ÿ˜‰
  2. What we're the symptoms that you had and what turbo is fitted to the foz ? As if its a tdo4 they rarely fail and are readily available second hand , due to being upgraded on most modified impreza wrx's. Also the tdo4's are a journal base core which require a film of oil to take up the play on the shaft , so if it hasn't been run for a while will have "side to side" play . Afaik most new or refurbished turbo cores come pre balanced and can just be fitted to the old turbos compressor housings
  3. Usage and personal preference play a big part in tyre choice , i prefer not to have a really soft compound to avoid scrub . As Pirelli neros i found to be great for traction but the side walls wear far to easily but i also had some khumo Estrada's which didn't wear but lacked grip and were quite noisy . My current happy medium is firestone firehawks which seem to perform well all round . Have a squint on blackcircles and compare noise , weather and compound ratings to see if you spot something that catches your eye ๐Ÿ˜‰
  4. mark at lateral performance used to sell the md series turbos , so might be worth giving him a call ๐Ÿ˜‰
  5. I'd suggest to swap the suspect coil pack to a different cylinder to see if the fault shifts along with the coilpack, to see if it was coilpack or pigtail plug (bit of wiring that plugs into the coilpack) As stu said the most common fault is the insulation going brittle from the heat , cracking and allowing the spark to arch to the cam cover . Saying that ,One of mine has the locking tab missing off the coilpack which was causing a intermittent misfire, due to the coil pack plug working loose if it wasn't pushed all the way on .
  6. I did do panel beating , spraying and can weld to a iso (British standard) , so had intended to cut the little rust bubble out of the drivers side wheelarch ,prep the car and get a full respray done this year. I do like to do as much as possible myself and it's not like me to let someone else work on it . I do also know that i haven't got the time , space or equipment to paint a car to a good standard atm, so someone else would've had to spray it (after I'd prepped it) Not that Rick is expensive for what he does but my "paint the scooby pot " probably wouldn't have stretched far enough to pay for his level of finish over the whole car . So i had originally just hoped i could get over any paint imperfections in my sub ยฃ2k respray with my mop and various cutting compounds ๐Ÿค” I'm certain it will look spot on when Ricks done and i won't have to touch it ๐Ÿ˜Ž so it's probably better for the cars looks. But for me and my girls , I'd much sooner us not been injured , done some of the work myself and not had my scoob damaged by that **** in the first place ...... Or he could've at least hit the drivers side as my kids were both sitting in the passengers side and the rust spot was on the drivers side rear ๐Ÿ˜ถ๐Ÿ™„๐Ÿ˜‚
  7. Originally he said a 2 week turn around but what with me asking for more to be painted and a bank holiday, it's pushed it back a bit . There's about 15 staff there and he uses the same blokes to strip and refit everything and 1 bloke to paint it . He says that way everyone is accountable for quality and there's no excuses if customers ain't happy ๐Ÿ˜Ž The owner races a v8 engined 1 series and also owns a touring car prep company, so the geo set up will be corner weighted by them afterwards ๐Ÿ™‚
  8. Yes bud , can't fault Rick at Ipswich accident repair for customer service or the attention to detail so far ๐Ÿ˜Ž Your not wrong there bud , feel like I've lost a limb ,certainly looking forward to getting it back . Ive misssed a few local meets and shows already ๐Ÿ™ Next one is in bury st Edmunds in a couple of weeks, should give me just enough time to spring clean the bay ๐Ÿ˜Š
  9. Popped in too see her today , unfortunately due to me moving the goal posts ๐Ÿ™„ it won't be finished until midweek next week now but it will be having a full respray bar bootlid and rear bumper ๐Ÿ˜Š
  10. Well in true savage style and not doing things by half , I've decided to get a bit more done while she's in the bodyshop . There was only one part of rust on the whole car so the rear drivers 1/4 has had the rot cut out and had fresh metal welded back in . The roof ,boot spoiler and a posts had paint fade ,so they're being painted along with the front n rear bumpers and ally preface bonnet . Hopefully she'll be back on the driveway this weekend ๐Ÿคž๐Ÿ˜Š
  11. Yeah tell me about it ...boost n burble withdrawal is a bstard lol . If your still struggling with locating a plug i can probably grab one off a mate thats breaking a v5 uk but he wants to sell the engine before i can hack bits off the loom . So might not be for a week or 2
  12. Cheers chaps , i actually feel like I'm finally getting somewhere now ๐Ÿ‘ I never realised how much I'd miss burble n boost and dunno how the likes of Jay can be so patient and go years without it ๐Ÿค” ๐Ÿ˜‰ Locating new rota boost alloys was turning out fairly expensive, especially as they will need to be painted in order to match up with the rest ๐Ÿ˜ So i spoke to rota uk and seeing as my car has been used to premote their products, they kindly let me have some ex display rims for half price ๐Ÿ˜Ž So big thumbs up to rota uk for the generous offer ๐Ÿ‘ I was well impressed with the firestone firehawks that id fitted to the front a few years back but unfortunately the front and rear drivers side tyres were popped when he pushed me over the raised traffic island on impact ๐Ÿคฌ Scooby diffs dont like different circumference tyres ๐Ÿ™„ so i can't re use the part worn front tyre from the passengers side ๐Ÿ˜ So Black circles will be delivering 4 new ones to be fitted once the damaged rims are replaced and painted ๐Ÿ˜Š
  13. Well Rick at the bodyshop isn't hanging around and she's starting to take shape already ๐Ÿ˜Š
  14. my v1 is running apexi f.c but it used to use the oe boost solenoid plug with the v1 sensor . i remembered that i upgraded to the later v3 onwards map sensor (in order to up the boost over the phase 1 map sensors 1.2 bar limit) and knew i didn't have to do any wiring . But forgot that it was because i also fitted the apexi f.c map sensor add on lead, which has the same plug as the v3 onwards map sensor . Sorry for the confusion ,so your right the plugs are different on the oe harness ๐Ÿ˜‰ Afaik The map sensor will need to be calibrated (mapper will have to adjust the scale it reads ) so don't just splice n fit it without checking with your mapper . I haven't got my v1 back yet so can't check but i have found a v3 map sensor with the wires still attached. I'll post a few pics but dunno if they'll help you ? If not its a common upgrade so a google should come up with the answer
  15. My geography ain't too clever , so excuse me if they're miles away but are surrey rolling road or alan @enginetuner anywhere near you ?
  16. It was a while ago but I'm fairly sure that the v3 onwards map sensor just plugged in ? Are you comparing v1 to v3 onwards or v1 to newage ?
  17. Cheers chap ,ive enjoyed doing it so far ๐Ÿ˜Š Did manage to get it all back together, but it wouldn't fire up ๐Ÿค” after checking numerous things there was no spark or injector pulse ๐Ÿคจ Me being mr over cautious decided to pull the timing belt to re align the belt lines on the pulleys, just to make sure the timing is spot on. Yep it was ๐Ÿ™„ and ive now eventually traced the fault to the crank sensor ๐Ÿ˜ถ But only after checking most of the ecu pins ,engine sensors and loom ๐Ÿ™„๐Ÿ˜‚ Sensor should be here friday but I've, Still gotta few bits to put back on and won't get chance to work on it till sunday ๐Ÿ˜ So no pics on this post lol
  18. Me too it's the longest ive been without burble n boost for about 7 yrs ๐Ÿ˜ฅ I'm getting serious withdrawal symptoms and missing loads of early show season meets โ˜น In a plus side my work horse caddy van is looking pretty sweet ,as i had to wash n wax something for therapy ๐Ÿ˜‚ Did get a bit of good news today .... work starts on the v1 tomorrow and I've been promised a few progress pics to chuck on here ๐Ÿ˜Ž Big thanks @tannan side skirt arrived , so just have to wait for Rick at the bodyshop to work his magic
  19. Cylinders 1 and 3 are both on the driver's side head so I'd probably look into inlet manifold / vac leak ,that the tgv's are operating ok and that earths, coilpack and injector plugs are making a good connection on the right hand side . Did you notice any colour difference between the spark plugs on each bank ? Hows the coolant levels ?
  20. It's already been ecutek remapped to 330hp /340hp ish by bob rawl on the road , so I've set up actuated boost by by passing the 3 port for during running in. Soon as the running in is done and the millers cfcs is in , I'll plumb the 3 port back in and take it to clive attowe for a dyno health check ๐Ÿ˜‰
  21. Tmic and air box away from start up and the weather's gone from light drizzle to "should i be building noahs ark instead of this scooby " ๐Ÿค”๐Ÿ™„ Sooo close i can almost taste the vpower ๐Ÿ˜‹๐Ÿ˜Š Rain forcast all day tomorrow โ˜น so i guess I'm hoping for a dry monday evening ๐Ÿคž
  22. Hi n welcome to s.o.c, looks like that has got a prodrive y pipe , is it a ppp wrx wagon ? Can't say it's always usual to see oily deposits in that area no matter what the mileage is . Most likely and cheapest reason would be 1 of the 3 oil breather pipes in that area .as these do get brittle due to the heat cycles the turbo creates and can crack . It's quite close to the turbo so oil lines or turbo seals could be a possibility but if the seals were gone id expect blue smoke on boost or coldstart . Either blocked pcv valve or exessive oil breathing could also lead to oil leaking there .pcv is cheap enough to clean or replace but excessive oil breathing caused by the engine could be something more sinister like piston blowby (Although most unlikely). Make sure you have a look for splits on the 1/2" bore black breather pipes that run from cam cover to inlet and crankcase . Hear it start from stone cold to check for piston slap noises and while its running remove the oil filler cap , if its breathing heavy it will "chuff" a lot as you remove the cap (a little is normal) Best of luck
  23. Sounds like you've had a rollercoaster entry into scooby ownership . Although it does look like you've got a lot of scooby for your money afaik the 2013 scooby is a 2.5 ltr so the pistons wouldn't fit into a 2ltr block . A uk sti ecu would run pink injectors and vf35 but different cams and possibly compression ratio . I also noticed that your new scoob has a fmic and that wouldn't be on a standard sti map , so although it would be plug n play I'd suggest a bespoke remap (especially if its running a decat too ) For the sake of the extra ยฃ500 a remap would not only get the most from your mods but be much safer considering it has mods and a possible hybrid engine ๐Ÿ˜‰
  24. Engines in and bolted to the 6 speed ๐Ÿ˜Ž But got a heavy workload and busy weekend ahead, so not sure when I'll have the chance to get it all connected and fired up ๐Ÿ™„
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