savage bulldogs

Managed to spend a bit of time to try and work out the routes for the fuel lines and position for the fuel lab fpr . Started off trying to use the lengths of braided fuel lines that I bought already made , this ment the for would be near the fuel filter . Unfortunately the pipework would have to have some really tight turns in it🤔 So had a rethink and relocated the fpr to the gearbox stabilizer bracket (dog bone mount) in the center of the bay on the bulkhead. I've tried a few times to cut braided lines before and without the proppa equipment it's a Pita. So looks like I'm going to have to get 3 more lines made up , to finally get this fuel system up n running . Pics of first position , few of the rails in situ and some of the location I'll be eventually fitting it .

Hi n welcome. You have a impreza breakers in Norwich called Brooke breakers , might be worth a call 😉 I'd also consider using Clive attowe tuining in Norwich, I travel from Suffolk to him to get all my mapping done and wouldn't want to use anyone else tbh .

Is it definitely not a fault in the harness , have you done a ohm check on just the loom to make sure ? I only say this as Subaru ecu's don't often go wrong ,although the short on the coilpack circuit could've well cause a ecu's issue . Could try Tim @ "JTINOVATIONS" as they have just made me a custom engine loom and might either be able to help or know someone who can .

I would probably think it would be cheaper to buy a second hand replacement ecu tbh . Do you know what's wrong with the current ecu and have you fixed the issue that caused the fault ?

Hi n welcome to s.o.c . Had a mate that made his bug into a hawk , you wouldn't have known unless you'd been told due to the private plate . As for rear adjustments, the stock set up only has adjustable camber bolts on the front . So most buy elbaich camber bolts to give the rear some adjustment during a alignment after lowering a scoob 😉

Cheers Matt 👍 Had all 3 deliveries turn up today , can't fault advanced automotive, jtinovations or racingline for speedy dispatch and customer service 👍 Sparky stuff ain't my forte but Tim at jtinovations certainly knows his stuff and the 25yr old engine looms replacement looks the dog's danglies 😎

New dei wrapped custom engine loom should be here this week from jtinovations . Got new thermal inlet manifold spacer "O" rings ,icv and throttle body gasket on their way. I had to use a tighter 90° banjo fitting to clear the clocked coldside of the turbo and although the general opinion is that it won't restrict flow, I decided to buy another "racingline " banjo fitting for other bank rail to insure the flow is the same. So that's on it's way too . I've been running the 565cc nissmo injectors since the engine had been run in (46k ago) so seeing as the rest of the fuel system is being renewed, I've sent the injectors off to Clive attowe tuining to get cleaned / flow matched . Had to admit defeat with the trailing arms and lateral links bushes ,as it's taking far to long to remove the old bushes with the tools I have to hand .So I decided to just get the inlet manifold, injector caps and cusco H brace powdercoated for now and leave the rear end for another time. Dropped the stuff off monday afternoon and it was done by Friday 😎 can't fault "Suffolk stove enamelers" for the job they've done for me , will definitely be using them again 😊 Hopefully I'll grab some new bolts for the inlet manifold and be able to start putting her back together at the weekend 🤞

Not sure if the sti strutts are red ,you might have pedders replacements but either way you're probably better off finding out what shocks you have and matching springs to suit their dampening rates . Aftermarket arb definitely helps with body roll especially if you get a adjustable one . Rear camber bolts are also a good cheap addition if you're going to lower or get a 4 wheel alignment done, as gives whoever does the geo a better chance to set car up to your driving style /needs . I've got mostly whiteline stuff on the v1sti as it's relatively cheap and does the job , only thing I'd say is whiteline stuff doesn't tend to stay rust free and after a few yrs , the paint tends to crack . Unsure if elbaich ,cdf,perrin ECT last any better In our salty winters though tbh .

Best one I've got on my phone

Just be carefull as the left bank cams are under pressure due to the cam lobe position at the timing Mark , so as you release the belt they'll spin . You can only turn them in 1 direction to 're align them when refitting the belt , or intake and exhaust valves will make contact (possibly damaging the valves) I'll see if I can find a pic to show you what I mean ,bud

What's the plan Was it knocking or just running rough ? If it wasn't knocking are you just gonna Correct the timing and do a compression test to check for damage? Buy a Sealy avcs pulley locking tool , for the sake of £20 it saves a lot of hassle 😉

I always speak to Alyn at asperformance when buying performance brake parts , he won't just sell you the most expensive stuff .Make sure you phone him and speak to him as He's always taken the time to talk through my needs and budget . (Plus his website doesn't list much of his stock) I currently can't fault my current set up for my v1sti, dba discs and performance friction carbon pads with phantom lines . Good cold bite ,low dust and excellent stopping power .

Is it running the standard tdo4 turbo ? If so that's probably your limiting factor , as they tend to max at 290hp . Depending on condition of the engine and drivetrain, 330hp is about the safe limit for a newage wrx engine n box

When you say plug it in , was that a code reader That said low charging system voltage ? Could try cleaning alternator plug and engine /battery earths. Could be a faulty alternator due to working too hard trying to charge the old knackered battery. Halfords do a free battery alternator check , might be worth a go to rule it out .

Tbh I wish I'd have got the inlet powdercoated instead of painting it myself 3yrs ago but I was getting quotes of £120 + just for the inlet and I got everything done for £80 . Couldn't tell you if the h brace makes any difference as , although I bought it for £20 about 5 yrs ago ,it's just been sat in the scooby scraps shed till now 😂 Seeing as I recently bought a whiteline anti lift kit and superpro front wishbone bushes, I thought I'd dust it off , get it powdercoated and fit it while the wishbones are off 😉 I've got whiteline arbs ,roll center correction kit and rear droplinks but the rear droplinks are the "pigtail type" and look more like (rusty) twiglets atm . So I'll be buying some solid c shape droplinks , new rear bushes and getting some other stuff powdercoated on the back end at a later stage .

Could try to release the outter cable tie jublie clip on each steering rack boot , to see if the boot is filling with p.s fluid . The boots should have grease in them but not fluid , unless the rack seals have gone . Just make sure you've got suitable cable ties or that you can reuse the jubliee clips when refitting. If there's no fluid in the boots then I'd say you have a leak and to check pump, reservoir , both pump and rack ends of the pipework and the rack itself . Best of luck

No probs mate, always happy to help and share what I've learned along the way 👍 Just bear in mind that hatch onwards have "push type" clutches, so if you buy a hatch 5 speed you'll have to find out if they're compatable with "pull type" clutches. Think v5 onwards have ty54's but I'd say buy as new as you can afford /find , after all v5 is over 20 yrs old too . Personally I always replace both driveshaft and prop seals ,when fitting a second hand box .as the seals only cost about £20 from icp and are easy to change while the box is out . Try someone like Matt at mbdevelopments on f.b ,for a 5 speed box with the same ratio as your existing 4 speed . Feel free to tag or pm me if you're stuck , fella

Picked up my reversed inlet manifold, injector caps and cusco H brace from the powder coaters 😊 Only gave them to "Suffolk stove enamelers" on Monday, 4 day turn around and made a lovely job of them 😎

I've turned a few 5 speeds into 4 speeds ,always been 3rd gear too 🙄 If £1.5k for a 6 speed is too much to spend atm ,you could fit a later ty54 or hawk 5 speed .as these have stronger casings and will generally run 360hp ( maybe a bit more) . Google your current ty52#### gearbox code to find out the final drive ratio. Then find a ty54 or 6 speed with the same ratio , that way you can keep your rear diff assembly and only change the box . You will have to swap the early mechanical speed sensor and reverse /neutral switch wiring to the new box but clutch ,fly,starter,driveshafts ECT are all compatable from ty52 to ty54 or 6 speed 😉

Got the scoob fixed (non categorised ) still gotta go to court about the injury settlement though 🙄 Unfortunately I had to switch insurance companies as they wanted over £1.5k for both scoobs with a non fault claim ,even though I'd been with them for nearly a decade . I ended up insured through a classic car company for the v1sti and the v7 sti ,non fault incident , all mods declared, agreed value , recovery ect for £870 Which is about £200 more than I was paying just for the v1sti , the year before .

Rain stopped play for a bit today , so I utilised the trusty kitchen table too strip the inlet and prep it for shot blasting prior to powdercoating. Marked up the unused inlet lugs and removed them , masked up machined faces and wound old bolts in the threaded holes to keep them clean . Just gotta remove the old bushes from the trailing arms and lateral links, then hopefully drop everything off at the powder coaters one evening during the week. Getting a bit fed up of taking pics of this "long term" fuel system upgrade now 🙄 but I do feel like I'm finally getting somewhere at last 😊... even if there was nothing really wrong with the rails in the first place at my current hp and it's still all in bits in the shed atm 🤔🤪

Build a garage instead of a extension it's much cheaper 😉 then tell the Mrs that you've spent £6.8k of the money you saved on a bug sti to put in it 😋

Has it been mapped already ? Any mods , airflow especially? Generally speaking valves ,pistons ECT will only melt if a engine runs lean , as more air than fuel equals a hotter combustion. If it's due to fuel starvation ie cornering hard with low fuel levels or weak fuel pump /faulty system it's normally cylinder no 3 that fails (As it's last in line to get fuel) Plus Personally if I spent over £3k getting a engine built , I'd want it mapped or at least dyno health checked to make sure I protected my investment. It Would be good practice to find out that if there is a fault (that caused the original lump to eat itself ,)that the fault not still there 😉

If cylinder 1 hasn't been firing due to burnt valve causing a lack of compression, it would cause big end 1 to fail . As that piston would've just been flung up n down the bore by the crank , instead of combustion and heat 😒 Sounds like you really need to get your car serviced and mapped by someone that knows what they're doing . As no disrespect to you James but by the sound if that report , you've been driving around with a melted valve and shot to bits clutch for a while bud 😏 I Do still find it difficult to believe that you didn't notice the lack of power and noise it would've been making . Best of luck with the rebuild

While I was typing , James did post up that the compression test showed red on that cylinder. So unless the compression tester wasn't sealed , the results do show either head gasket, ring or valve damage .