savage bulldogs

Not sure if the sti strutts are red ,you might have pedders replacements but either way you're probably better off finding out what shocks you have and matching springs to suit their dampening rates . Aftermarket arb definitely helps with body roll especially if you get a adjustable one . Rear camber bolts are also a good cheap addition if you're going to lower or get a 4 wheel alignment done, as gives whoever does the geo a better chance to set car up to your driving style /needs . I've got mostly whiteline stuff on the v1sti as it's relatively cheap and does the job , only thing I'd say is whiteline stuff doesn't tend to stay rust free and after a few yrs , the paint tends to crack . Unsure if elbaich ,cdf,perrin ECT last any better In our salty winters though tbh .

Best one I've got on my phone

Just be carefull as the left bank cams are under pressure due to the cam lobe position at the timing Mark , so as you release the belt they'll spin . You can only turn them in 1 direction to 're align them when refitting the belt , or intake and exhaust valves will make contact (possibly damaging the valves) I'll see if I can find a pic to show you what I mean ,bud

What's the plan Was it knocking or just running rough ? If it wasn't knocking are you just gonna Correct the timing and do a compression test to check for damage? Buy a Sealy avcs pulley locking tool , for the sake of £20 it saves a lot of hassle 😉

I always speak to Alyn at asperformance when buying performance brake parts , he won't just sell you the most expensive stuff .Make sure you phone him and speak to him as He's always taken the time to talk through my needs and budget . (Plus his website doesn't list much of his stock) I currently can't fault my current set up for my v1sti, dba discs and performance friction carbon pads with phantom lines . Good cold bite ,low dust and excellent stopping power .

Is it running the standard tdo4 turbo ? If so that's probably your limiting factor , as they tend to max at 290hp . Depending on condition of the engine and drivetrain, 330hp is about the safe limit for a newage wrx engine n box

When you say plug it in , was that a code reader That said low charging system voltage ? Could try cleaning alternator plug and engine /battery earths. Could be a faulty alternator due to working too hard trying to charge the old knackered battery. Halfords do a free battery alternator check , might be worth a go to rule it out .

Tbh I wish I'd have got the inlet powdercoated instead of painting it myself 3yrs ago but I was getting quotes of £120 + just for the inlet and I got everything done for £80 . Couldn't tell you if the h brace makes any difference as , although I bought it for £20 about 5 yrs ago ,it's just been sat in the scooby scraps shed till now 😂 Seeing as I recently bought a whiteline anti lift kit and superpro front wishbone bushes, I thought I'd dust it off , get it powdercoated and fit it while the wishbones are off 😉 I've got whiteline arbs ,roll center correction kit and rear droplinks but the rear droplinks are the "pigtail type" and look more like (rusty) twiglets atm . So I'll be buying some solid c shape droplinks , new rear bushes and getting some other stuff powdercoated on the back end at a later stage .

Could try to release the outter cable tie jublie clip on each steering rack boot , to see if the boot is filling with p.s fluid . The boots should have grease in them but not fluid , unless the rack seals have gone . Just make sure you've got suitable cable ties or that you can reuse the jubliee clips when refitting. If there's no fluid in the boots then I'd say you have a leak and to check pump, reservoir , both pump and rack ends of the pipework and the rack itself . Best of luck

No probs mate, always happy to help and share what I've learned along the way 👍 Just bear in mind that hatch onwards have "push type" clutches, so if you buy a hatch 5 speed you'll have to find out if they're compatable with "pull type" clutches. Think v5 onwards have ty54's but I'd say buy as new as you can afford /find , after all v5 is over 20 yrs old too . Personally I always replace both driveshaft and prop seals ,when fitting a second hand box .as the seals only cost about £20 from icp and are easy to change while the box is out . Try someone like Matt at mbdevelopments on f.b ,for a 5 speed box with the same ratio as your existing 4 speed . Feel free to tag or pm me if you're stuck , fella

Picked up my reversed inlet manifold, injector caps and cusco H brace from the powder coaters 😊 Only gave them to "Suffolk stove enamelers" on Monday, 4 day turn around and made a lovely job of them 😎

I've turned a few 5 speeds into 4 speeds ,always been 3rd gear too 🙄 If £1.5k for a 6 speed is too much to spend atm ,you could fit a later ty54 or hawk 5 speed .as these have stronger casings and will generally run 360hp ( maybe a bit more) . Google your current ty52#### gearbox code to find out the final drive ratio. Then find a ty54 or 6 speed with the same ratio , that way you can keep your rear diff assembly and only change the box . You will have to swap the early mechanical speed sensor and reverse /neutral switch wiring to the new box but clutch ,fly,starter,driveshafts ECT are all compatable from ty52 to ty54 or 6 speed 😉

Rain stopped play for a bit today , so I utilised the trusty kitchen table too strip the inlet and prep it for shot blasting prior to powdercoating. Marked up the unused inlet lugs and removed them , masked up machined faces and wound old bolts in the threaded holes to keep them clean . Just gotta remove the old bushes from the trailing arms and lateral links, then hopefully drop everything off at the powder coaters one evening during the week. Getting a bit fed up of taking pics of this "long term" fuel system upgrade now 🙄 but I do feel like I'm finally getting somewhere at last 😊... even if there was nothing really wrong with the rails in the first place at my current hp and it's still all in bits in the shed atm 🤔🤪

Build a garage instead of a extension it's much cheaper 😉 then tell the Mrs that you've spent £6.8k of the money you saved on a bug sti to put in it 😋

Has it been mapped already ? Any mods , airflow especially? Generally speaking valves ,pistons ECT will only melt if a engine runs lean , as more air than fuel equals a hotter combustion. If it's due to fuel starvation ie cornering hard with low fuel levels or weak fuel pump /faulty system it's normally cylinder no 3 that fails (As it's last in line to get fuel) Plus Personally if I spent over £3k getting a engine built , I'd want it mapped or at least dyno health checked to make sure I protected my investment. It Would be good practice to find out that if there is a fault (that caused the original lump to eat itself ,)that the fault not still there 😉

If cylinder 1 hasn't been firing due to burnt valve causing a lack of compression, it would cause big end 1 to fail . As that piston would've just been flung up n down the bore by the crank , instead of combustion and heat 😒 Sounds like you really need to get your car serviced and mapped by someone that knows what they're doing . As no disrespect to you James but by the sound if that report , you've been driving around with a melted valve and shot to bits clutch for a while bud 😏 I Do still find it difficult to believe that you didn't notice the lack of power and noise it would've been making . Best of luck with the rebuild

While I was typing , James did post up that the compression test showed red on that cylinder. So unless the compression tester wasn't sealed , the results do show either head gasket, ring or valve damage .

Being a 2004 sti I think it will have a 2ltr ej207 , if it's the same as the v7sti ej207 they're a very capable engine in standard guise (mid 400hp) . So just a standard refresh with maybe stopper headgaskets . I'm not saying that your being ripped off but if I'd like to know why it's running on 3 cylinders .... no spark , fuel or compression are the only 3 reasons a cylinder won't fire . If it's a compression issue then I'd understand why a rebuild has been suggested but the other 2 might be a much cheaper fix . I Do eco what Matt said and find it difficult to believe that it's been running on 3 cylinders , passed a mot ,not got a constant eml and you haven't noticed .

Feel a bit sorry for the bug , as all I've done is clean it and drive it , although I did toy with the idea of putting a bigger turbo on it to get the most from it's capable engine 🤔 I had promised the wife that I wouldn't mod the bug 🙄 . Although I really do like the v7sti, I have definitely decided that once the v1sti is out from it's hibernation, that the bug will be going up for sale in the summer 😏 I just can't justify running 2 scoobs and the caddy maxi, plus it's far to nice a car to be a winter run around and I do have the v1sti too . It's nearly done 80k now ,3 previous owners ,jdm clocks/grill and hid's, b.cs, £1k speedlines , full rebuild , timing belt kit ,new clutch , gauges, 3 port b.s , rcm flywheel and pulleys. I'm in no hurry to sell it and I'll put a for sale thread up closer to the time but if anyone spots this that is after a v7sti type UK , feel free to pm me.

Well the old crispy insulation engine loom has been sent off to JT innovations ,so hopefully I'll have a nice new replacement custom engine loom in just over a forgnight 😎 After sending the manufacturer of the thermal inlet manifold spacer kits a email ,they're going to supply me some replacement o ring gaskets but I'll source some better quality bolts for refitting 😉 As for the snapped inlet manifold bolt , I tried a cam style extractor but it wouldn't budge😒 So had to result to drilling , using a extractor and cleaning the thread with a tap . Pita but it's sorted now 😉 I'll hopefully be dropping the inlet manifold, cusco"H"" brace , clutch fluid heat shield,lateral links and trailing arms off to the powder coaters one evening during the week. So for now here's a Part way through the Pita pic 🙄 And although I was angry with her ,soon as the snapped bolt was removed and I shut the bonnet..... she give me this look and all was forgiven 😍

Bought a "Cam style" stud extractor to try to avoid having to drill it out but it wouldn't budge, even with my 1/2" breaker bar 🤬 So old skool drill and 're tap ftw , guess I'd better get some better quality bolts for refitting the inlet 🙄

Savage bulldogs 1 Rusty !Removed! stud that snapped in the head 0 😊

It does look like a classic one but the main difference between classic and new age ,is the new age ones are shorter . Looks like it's got a egt sensor in the pipework but without a measurement , say diagonally from turbo outlet flange to cat back flange , I'd be just guessing bud

Tbh I wasn't a fan of preface or bugs , I much preferred v3/v4 and blobeyes.... But beauty is in the eye of the "beer holder" 😂 and here I am with a bug and preface 🤪 Ross , i spoke to Gary and apparently there's a receipt in the masses of service paperwork 🙄 and It's a scoobyclinic splitter on the bug 😉

Just frustrating having already replaced nearly all the bolts on the engine and then having to replace oe quality bolts for the longer hex ones in the spacer kit... Only to find out the bolts in the kit are made from recycled rusty Alfa Romeo's 🤪 There's about 30mm still sticking out, so I've ordered a "cam type" extractor, which will hopefully get it out . If not I'll pilot drill it, wind a old skool bolt extractor in and run a tap through it to clean the threads . I don't know what the splitter is on the bug but next time I speak to Gary (last owner) ,I'll ask him if you like ? Was also going to switch the gauge sensors over ,so I can fit the defis, while the inlet was off but can't seem to find a preface dash top pod or air vent conversion panel for 3x 60mm gauges 🙄 On the plus side the loom is ready to be posted off too jtinovations, so at least something is going right 😊