savage bulldogs

Knowing the way this is going atm they'll probably ask for £6.5k to buy it back [emoji34]

Ok ,so Adrian flux have now said my policy isn't agreed value , although i had discussed the value with them and its plainly written on my policy , it's not "agreed value ". So its now probably going to be written off [emoji34] So apparently I've been paying nearly £600 per year for insurance on a £2.5k car , with listed mods . So gutted i didn't re insure with green light this year . Fook you very much flux for not explaining the difference between value and agreed value !!! Gonna check through my insurance details when i get back home today but its not looking good now [emoji53]

Well i haven't done anything to my scooby today [emoji53] But the insurance engineer turned out to be a scooby fanatic and has approved the repairs [emoji4] Just gotta wait for my insurance company to pull their finger out and confirm that the repairs can go ahead [emoji41]

I had quotes of about £3.5k fir a full respray due to paint fade (no rust repairs) Have a look at automotive repair panels on f.b , ray does good quality rear arch and sill repair panels for a reasonable price [emoji6]

I'm doing a ej207 52 plate wrx sti type uk rebuild myself at the moment , so can tell you that the standard rods and pistons are good for 450hp ish . I've spent about £2k in parts and engineer costs , so if your rods , block and pistons are ok i can't see why a safe 400hp engine can't be built for your budget . You'll only be able to tell whats damaged once the block is stripped but mahle forged pistons are about £500 and h beam rods are about £400 if needed . Unfortunately im far too busy atm (check my build threads) to take on any other scooby work myself , so I'd suggest to contact RM performance on f.b too see what they recommend. As mick is a honest tuner and wont fleece you for extra work / parts that are not needed . http://www.rmperformance.co.uk/ All the best Clive Edited in as i just noticed yours is a 07 sti and probably a 2.5 ltr engine , so I'm unsure what power the standard components are good for . Also Alyn at asperformance is worth a call as he does a lot of 2.5 closed deck conversions "in house" to strengthen the block for higher hp builds

Worn outter c.v joints tend to give a clicking sound on full lock when driving slowly . Wheel bearing, ball joints , inner tie rods outter track rod ends are also worth a check . Is there any uneven tyre wear ? If your unsure , get it checked out sooner rather than later, as if any of the above completely fail it could be nasty

Unfortunately the slanty tmic will max out at 290hp ish and it's a mare to fit bigger tmics on v1 inlets , so fmic is the normal route on v1/v2's . It should run ok but you'll be overfuelling, so don't drive it too much , even off boost , as overfuelling can cause bore wash . Which strips the bores of oil causing wear and can lead to fuel in the sump/oil [emoji6]

Looks like your making your mark on your classic , should look nice once it starts going back together [emoji41]

Im a bit jelly lol , wish i was at the almost finished stage [emoji849] but I'm getting there . Do a ecu reset bud , there's a "how to" sticky thread in the tech section [emoji6] What injectors are you running , stock grey 380's? If so 290hp is about the limit with those and a "slanty" tmic , with a fmic and yellow 440cc injectors you should see about 330hp [emoji6]

Cheers chaps [emoji106] i do like to get stuck in [emoji6] Managed to a bit this evening on the right hand head too [emoji4] got the lash caps in , plastigauged the cam cap oil clearances and checked the valve clearances (both of which are spot on) . I've got new avcs banjo bolts and filters to fit but just put the old ones in to bung the holes for now and put the vapor blasted cam cover on . to keep any debris out until the engines sealed up properly. plus they cost me £30 to get em shiney and i like shiney scooby stuff [emoji4]

Pretty close now chap , as for the gearbox and engine , ive had some just fall into place [emoji41] And some take half a day of wiggling, jacking the box up n down and a full swear tin [emoji849] Hope the bleeding of the coolant goes just as smooth and your back with boost n burble soon [emoji106]

Wiped the block deck and freshly machined /refurbished heads free from oil . Soaked the new head bolts and washers in oil , fitted the Cossie stopper headgaskets and torqued the heads down according to the service manual instructions. Still got a good day or 2 to go , fitting the cams , pulleys , sump , cam covers , timing belt kit , manifolds, turbo ect but it's definitely taking shape now [emoji4]

Bit more done today , still got a way to go but i feel like I'm getting somewhere now [emoji41] Wiped the block half mating surfaces free from oil , added the new o rings and used liquid three bond gasket sealer before torque'ing the block bolts down . Fitted the other 2 pistons via the access bungs ,with new wrist pin clips and bung gaskets , followed by the oil separator plate. The uprated Graham goode oil pump has only done 800miles but due to the old crank rumble i stripped the pump , put it through the engineers hot wash and reassembled it with graphogen builders paste . to insure there wasn't any debris in it to contaminate the oilways before fitting that and the water pump . Bottom water pipe fitted and (hot washed ) oil cooler fitted .

Hi n welcome, to s.o.c . Looks like your getting stuck in with the classic and glad to see you've found your way over from f.b [emoji6] Looks like your in for the long haul , so feel free to start a build thread in the tech section . As it's always nice to see scoobs getting some tlc and helps / inspires other members to get stuck in too

Starting to look like a boxer lump again now [emoji4]

Made a fair bit of progress today , finished off fitting the valves into both heads . Then although I'm fitting a new crank and king race bearings i plastigauged all the crank bearings . Which turned out to be pointless as all the oil clearances were spot on but assumption can lead to fook ups and i feel better knowing its right . Gapped the new rings to smack bang in the middle of subaru factory tollerances , smeared graphogen builders paste over cylinder walls and bearings .then fitted 2 pistons and rods to 1 bank , to save using the piston wrist pin access holes to fit the new pin clips

And scaring cattle , cos they think a tractor is coming [emoji23]

When my mate broke his 586hp classic and bought a bmw diesel i tagged him in it too . Thought it was quite apt seeing as your jag was a v8 . I've gotta twisted sense of (sarcastic) humour , so glad you found if funny too . All joking aside , nice choice chap [emoji106]

That wasn't too bad , both heads done , crank plastigauged, rings gapped and block halves are ready to go together [emoji41] Missed the sun this afternoon but at least the beer is cold now [emoji4]

Nice but ..... [emoji850][emoji8]

Being self employed it's normally, upsetting when somebody else's lack of organisation means you have to go home because a jobs not ready when you turn up [emoji53] But hey their fook up is my gain today and i guess I'd better do something constructive with my day off [emoji4]

I'm really chuffed with the dba t2 discs and carbon metalic pfc pads from Alyn at asperformance, by far the best combo I've had in my brembos for fast road use . I'm sure if you give Alyn at asperformance a bell, he'd be able to suggest a combo that suits your needs and budget [emoji6]

Sweet , looks like a busy weekend ahead for you then stu [emoji4] Best of luck, fella [emoji106]

If it's only a little bit of oil in the y pipe, yes thats normal. Couldn't tell you if a hawk has a icv and tbh i haven't even checked if the bug I've got in bits has 1 either [emoji4] Doubt its a sparking issue , as it's fine at wot /full boost but maf or 02 sensor and anything airflow wise . Ie vac or intake pipework leak , clogged airfilter . How long has it been mapped ? As a recent change in air temp might affect the cold start enrichment /idle / map in general , if it was recently mapped in cold weather

Pcv valve blocked? You'd probably see oil in the tmic or y pipe if so , might be worth checking . Or idle control valve might need a clean , for the cost of a icv gasket it might be worth a go