savage bulldogs

Photo bucket .... 😠 I'm fairly good with a spanner but tech ain't my thing ,for sure . So far I've spent 3 hrs of my time downloading my pic's from their website to re upload them to my build thread , just because they now wanna charge you fortunes for a service thats been free for a decade . 3 hrs ...... and I'm only on page 2 of 18 😕😠😤 !Removed! you bucket

Sorry i thought i read v6 2000 wrx [emoji849] If its a bug then i dont think they do apexi for those, even though v5 to at least blobeyes can be ecuteked . Never had anything subaru newer than my old 97 uk, so dont know if carberry is readily available for a bug or at what cost . Fairly sure either any carr or andy forrest use it though , so a squint on there websites might help with info on functions ect

Don't know if you can just buy the software due to needing a licence to map a standard v5 onwards ecu . It Might be a franchise/ dealer only to use it but thats just a quess , as i haven't seen any ecutek for sale . Think theres the likes of carberry and possibly cobb that might work and esl have been developing v5 software for a while (dunno the release date though). I personally run apexi f.c and datalogit ,old tech but it's tried n tested and relatively cheap . Plus once you have the software, not only can you map any year scoob with a f.c ecu but any marque of car with one fitted [emoji4]

I'd imagine so , they've been sat in my scooby spares shed for a yr or so . Got some elbaich pro spiings too [emoji4]

Spotted this on f.b thought I'd post it on here , dunno anything about the car , other than its a auto turbo saloon [emoji6]

Not one of my favourite jobs tbh [emoji856]🤣[emoji23]

I know that the tdo4 banjo bolt, oil and water lines differ from the tdo5's ones but fortunately my old tdo5 came with everything needed . I recently upgraded to a stock location gt28 and didn't have any idea whether i needed a more restrictive, less restrictive or the same size banjo bolt as the td05's one [emoji53] I didn't want to take a chance on fitting the wrong size banjo bolt as to little flow and you'll run the turbo core dry and cause a spike in engine oil pressure . To much flow and you'll pop the turbo core seals and reduce engine oil pressure . So to be on the safe side , I bought a kinugwa fitting kit , which was cheap (even incl the import tax) and although its less than half the price of uk suppliers, its been working fine for 10 k miles .

I've got a pair of nearly new (done 2k miles max) wrx /uk turbo rear shocks £60 plus post ?

The fuel filler neck tends to rot at the bottom of the pipe under the plastic guard. Also If you lift the boot carpet and remove the rear bench theres a couple of access hatches that allow you to get to the fuel pump .

What model and year is it ? If its a classic you can self read the ecu codes without a code reader

Best of luck , fella 🤞

Think 140 to 170 is oe compression . Strangely enough my mums nissan puke had the same symptoms today . Tried to start first turn of the key , then stalled and just cranks over . After talking to my brv , he had the same thing with his jap mx5 and it was a imobilizer issue . So we tried her spare key which wouldn't unlock the car at but started the engine first time . I know you said the alarm wasn't operational on yours but its far too coincidental not to mention .

A smoke test would rule out a intake leak , otherwise boost is controlled by the solenoids , a lot of vac lines and the actuators/ wastegates . Unfortunately all i know about the twin turbo vac lines and solenoids is that they're complicated. But a check for split vacuum pipes leading from the turbo actuators and outlet neck to the solenoid box and inlet manifold would be doing . Also worth checking the actuator arm on the bigger turbo isn't loose , it should be difficult to pull the wastegate open with your fingers . Is there any ecu codes ?

Ive seen idle issues , like hunting due to the wrong thickness headgasket but that was on a na golf . a compression test should rule out wrong gasket thickness though [emoji6]

I personally don't know much about the diesel lumps but i do know my way round the early impreza engines . I know of several petrol turbo scoobies from classic (92) to blobeye (04) that have had piston slap for years . I'd read that the v3 97 to v4 98 were more prone to this due to the open deck type block and a change in the composite of the piston material . I think its probably due to either incorrect oil grade , lack of service interval or lack of mechanical sympathy. I've seen a few drivers bouncing off the limiter from a cold start and with the pistons being cold , the tollerances are bigger . The exessive throttle when cold can cause bore wear and ovallity would create bigger tollerances and more noise from cold but once the pistons have expanded they take up the play (goes quiet) My v3 uk had piston slap at 86k but i serviced it every 5k and always warmed it up /cooled it down before i used boost . I got it remapped and it done 20k before i pulled the lump out to replace it (by choice , it still ran fine ) . As long as you dont have too much blow by when cold and let it warm up and cool down the petrol ones are fine . my friends 97 uk had piston slap at 70k . It was remapped to 320hp and now has 260k on the original engine [emoji6]

Have you tried logging out and back in again of tapatalk? I'm using tapatalk on a Samsung to post this

Think the early boxer diesel engines had a issue with the crank , I'm sure someone on here knows exactly what it was that was prone to failing . I did have a 97 uk turbo that sounded horrific on cold start but once up to temp sounded fine . That was definitely piston slap and once the pistons had expanded and the engine up to temp , it sounded fine . The 2.5 ltrs do get a bad rep too , with some standard ,unabused and well looked after engines, popping the headgaskets or suffering from ringland failure . Will i be selling my 94 sti anytime soon ? Nope , not a chance [emoji16] i love my quirky retro underdog scooby to bits [emoji6]

Only thing i can think of is they made a wrx ppp with subaru 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears and a wrx sti ppp with brembos front n rear . Im currently running front brembos and subaru 2 pot rears on my 94 sti , the rears came off a 04 plate wrx ppp and the fronts came off a 04 plate sti ppp. Give Alyn at asperformance a bell, he'll be able to tell you what type you have and probably give you a competitive price for replacements to suit your driving style / budget [emoji6]

No problem bud, i like to do things myself and have a soft spot for the early classics . Have you tried leaving the plugs out for a long time , letting the fuel in the bores and on the plugs to evaporate. Did you fit bigger injectors for the remap and did you plug the maf in when trying the oe ecu ? As unless a lot of time is spent on the cold start map when running mafless , it could be flooding due to the colder denser air affecting manifold pressure . Hope you suss it soon , it's starting to make my brain hurt

Does it smell of fuel a lot when cranking ? Nipped a injector o ring, maybe ? Tps and both temp sensors making a good connection? Not adjusted the icv or tps , while stripping it down ?

Have you had it running since you did the coilpack conversion or did you do that after the cambelt

If they're on the same bank , are they plugged in the right way round and have they got a good earth ?

Before she changes her mind

I know the v3 / v4 is a direct fit but I haven't done much on phase 2 v5 onwards impreza's tbh, so get a pic of the connection plug to compare to your existing map sensor plug .

Linky no worky, bud but any oe v3 onwards turbo impreza map sensor will be a upgrade . As they read up to 1.7 bar and the v1 and v2 only read to 1.2 bar . Although it will just plug in it will need to be calibrated by a mapper ( fitted just before a remap )