savage bulldogs

Strange that my photobucket pics on my build thread dont work in a "browser" but they show up when viewing in tapatalk [emoji848] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Literally getting stuck in with that engine swap , nice work [emoji106] Make sure you check the coolant refill methods by having a search on here . Its basically dont let the header tank suck dry , but will save you having to bleed the system . Best of luck , fella Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

It will say what version tdo4 you have on the compressor coldside in raised numbers [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Only good news about the colder weather imo is the denser air makes it boosting season [emoji16] which means i have gained a bit more boost pressure for free [emoji41] Supposed to be 1.4 bar at 100% throttle Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Finally found the intermittent misfire fault , it appears that the 23yr old engine loom insulation had cracked near the right bank coilpack plug [emoji53] Nothing a bit of heatshrink insluation and a couple of hrs of my time couldn't fix [emoji41] Guess I'll be searching for a new engine loom to prep over the winter then [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I haven't seen many standard graphs but that's eitherca conservative oe map or it looks like something is holding it back after 4k . If it has avcs is it working ok , how does the car feel to drive ? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

It's possible it could be any part of the hydraulic clutch system as the fluid reservoir sits over the hotside of the turbo . The heat cycles make the fluid degrade and it often get forgotten to be refreshed . Which can cause wear in the hydraulic seals Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

V1 and v2 run a phase 1 inlet (slanty tmic and top entry turbo ) . v3 /v4 run a phase 1.5 inlet (straight tmic and front entry turbo) . Although the manifold and auxiliaries differ in shape V1 to v4 inlet and head ports are the same . So this means that you can fit either phase 1 or phase 1.5 inlet and auxiliaries to any v1 to v4 long engine (block and heads) V5 onwards inlet manifold and head ports use a different stud and port pattern, which means they wont fit the earlier phase 1 &1.5 heads or inlets without modification. Easiest option is to use the correct phase 1.5 inlet and auxiliaries for your v4 car bolted to v1 to v4 heads , as this will mean you dont have any loom alterations to make . The v1 to v4 heads will physically bolt onto any 2ltr or 2.5 ltr bottom end . The only real issue is knowing what size chamber the heads you use have and what cc the the piston crown "bowel" is that the bottom end has .As you need these measurements to calculate the head gasket thickness to achieve the 8.5.1 compression ratio . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Hopefully its just a clutch fluid or slave cylinder issue , as they're the cheaper options . If you "pump" the clutch pedal will it go into gear eaiser? This might hint at a slave or cooked fluid causing the problem. Could try a visual check to see if the clutch slave cylinder is pushing the clutch fork far enough to operate the clutch . If you try this method and decide you want to check with the engine running , BE CAREFUL . The last thing you want to happen is for it to go in gear and then fail then get run over by your own scooby [emoji856][emoji850] Sometimes using a turkey baster to remove the old fluid and re filling with new fluid can resolve slave issues . Just don't get any on the paintwork cos it will strip it [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Occasional Intermittent misfire was starting to get on my nerves[emoji848] . So i decided to check over the newage coilpack conversion "pigtails" i did find 1dry soldered joint and hoped that would resolve the fault for good . Which i re did but when refitting the right bank i niticed a crack in the engine loom "coilpack spur" [emoji53] Guess I'll be spending my sunday removing the engine loom and practicing my soldering again [emoji849] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

No problem bud , glad it's running well and making you grin [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Lol@kayzarh Would probably add, turbo outlet to downpipe gasket and a few exhaust studs /nuts . Some coolant too . Dayco belt kits are fine as is the millers brand of oil , it should be fully synthetic though . Oil grade threads are normally a can of worms but as a rule of thumb ... Classic 10w 40 and newage 5w 30 fully synthetic. I've posted a few pics of cam belt installation in the past but im sure a search on here might bring the threads up . Just make sure you get the cams /bottom end in the right position and fit the belt in the right order, releasing the tensioner last . Torque'ing the idlers and tensioner to the correct setting , as if they get overtightened they're prone to snap in the ally block . As for priming ,Fill the oil filter with oil before fitting then once sump is filled and before 1st start ,pull the crank sensor plug off . This will allow the engine to turn over but not fire up and primes the oil system . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Cheers jay , i only found out yesterday cos someone tagged me on f.b . Haven't got round to buying it yet but Guess I'd better get myself a copy this month for sure then [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

B'stards , glad they didn't actually break in though dog . When i lived in the east end we got burgled and my mum came home while they were still in the flat . She was 6 months pregnant and They pushed her over to get out of the door . Unfortunately for them my dad is a ex boxer / powerlifter and was drinking in the pub at the bottom of our towerblock with his 5 brothers . So a quick phone call and they caught up with them outside ..... 1 got away but the other 1 got ten bells knocked out of him grassing his mate up to save his own skin . They caught up with the other 1 and bundled him into the back of a transit with 4 of my uncles and a shovel . " told him he'd need the shovel to dig himself a hole cos we're going to epping forrest " He !Removed! himself , literally [emoji23] But the took him to the local police station instead ......... and the police let him go and charged my dad with kidnapping wtf . 6 months later we get a call from the police saying that the pair of theifs had shot 3 people [emoji44] 2 before they burgled mine (1 of which died) and 1 afterwards who had named them . Apparently it was only the fact that my mum was pregnant that they didn't shoot her . if the police would've knicked the hand delivered criminal the other chap (who got shot afterwards) wouldn't be spending the rest of his life in a wheelchair [emoji53] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Although i haven't ever worked on a 2.5ltr or done a head gasket because its failed (only when building a engine) i can see both of your points . If someone comes in with a modded 2.5ltr running higher than standard boost or bad service history , un mapped mods , headgasket faliure hasn't been noticed straight away (overheated a few times) ect ... i dare say those are the ones that would be a risk . But if a low milage , well looked after standard 2.5ltr has only just started to burn a bit of coolant without any oil contamination. its probably unethical to give the customer a £3.5k + bill for what might only be £4k car . I dont want to add fuel to the fire , just point out that circumstances and customers budgets/ usage differ . Plus the op has a 2ltr and I've run outta popcorn [emoji8] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I can tune old school with carb and distributor , so thought id try to learn how to efi tune as well . Ive read a fair bit on the net and bought a few books over the past year but i won't "tweeking" anything for a while , just logging info and comparing data at different loads / throttle positions. It seems to be keeping me occupied and my idle hands outta the "spray the scooby fund " [emoji849] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I spotted your post aout having a failed wheelbearing and as it seemed to be quite fubar (making a lot of noise) i dare say the play /heat from the wheelbearing probably caused the outter c.v to fail too . Cheaper options would be a new outter c.v or Icp sell new none oe driveshafts at a reasonable price. Either way i probably wouldn't bother changing both sides unless you're fitting a bearing on the other side at the same time. You can upgrade the shafts and hubs to newage sti r180's but Standard classic r160 driveshafts are probably the weakest in the turbo subaru range and they're good for over 400hp . So it might be overkill Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Don't think there's many regular posters on here with high hp atm . Off the top of my head there's Alex with his enginetuner built forged 2.5 ltr hatch , think he's running mid 400's . My 94 sti running 359hp with self built forged cdb and 6 speed conversion. A few standard block mapped sti blobeyes running 330hp ish and a few classics running 320hp ish. Why's that and what info are you after , bud ? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

After a nice sunday roast there's nothing better than dropping some logs .[emoji849] the copilot had a bit of a nippy nought during the full throttle pulls but ive finally got some ecu parameter info for bedtime reading [emoji41] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Fuel filter (under the bonnet) or the fuel sock (attached to the pump in the tank) should collect any debris from running the tank low . Id suggest to inspect/ change those first [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I would say have a look at my "sticky" build thread for a few pointers but photobucket has removed most of the pics [emoji852] I'll probably re upload them over the winter , but would definitely eco colin (scooby ghost) and consider rebuilding the bottom end .As the extra strain of compressing coolant and the higher temps from the headgasket faliure,can cause the bottom end to fail shortly after replacing the headgaskets. Any particular questions or areas about removal and rebuilding , fire away fella [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I know a few people with flat bed trucks but they're all based in suffolk , where abouts are you ? +1 for plugs , oil n filter . Might be worth checking that the drivers side cam cover and half moons are ok . As these are prone to leaking and much eaiser to do with engine out . Oil modine is the oil cooler that the oil filter connects to , not prone to failures but usually get changed if a engine has failed. To lessen the chance of debris being reintroduced into the oil system after a failed engine has been rebuilt . Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Most people on here use Alyn @ asperformance or Ian @ godspeed for replacement discs, pads and caliper refurb kits . Unsure if either do parts for your alcon set up but they'd both be worth trying as they're helpfull people and if they dont stock them , would probably be able to point you in the right direction Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yep , the 6 speeds are a straight swap for any classic , bug , blob and hatch 5 speed [emoji106] All you need is 6 speed box , cradle , prop , gear linkage and gear stick . The 5 speed clutch,fly , starter ,slave and driveshafts are all compatible. You can even keep your 5 speed diff and rear shafts if you find a 6 speed thats the same ratio as your existing 5 speed [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Had to take the scoob to work today ,as it's booked in for mot . Can't remember the last time i enjoyed "going " to work before [emoji848] but 25miles of b road smiles ftw [emoji16] didn't like parking it in the building site car park though , as its not the flatest bit of ground and i do lack a bit ground clearance [emoji4] She past without any advisories and i was told "its cleaner underneath than most 5 yr old cars " Which aint bad seeing as shes 23 yrs old [emoji41] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk