savage bulldogs

Had a box with ally pipework from "ash" turn up today 😎 so I had a quick "play" to see if I can find a neater way of re routing the intake pipe work by getting a custom hard pipe welded up . It not looking as easy as I'd hoped but I like a challenge and was never any good at tetris anyways [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It depends on what year sti or wrx and whether it's a uk or jdm version . Generally the sti has all the above plus better cams ,headgaskets and forged pistons . So for instance a 04 wrx would probably be at its limit at 360 hp . Whereas a 04 jdm sti would be good for 450 hp, have better brakes and a much stronger 6 speed box. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem ,bud . Unfortunately sparks ain't really my thing . there's a link to free pdf files on 1 of the first few pages of my sticky build thread on here which will have the diagrams on . The loom earth should bolt onto the inlet manifold with a earthing "eye" just behind the start of the fuel hard lines (above cylinder 4 ) Keep us posted and best of luck If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It definitely sounds like a electrical issue to me , seeing as it idles ok with the maf and tps unplugged. Does seem strange that your not getting any codes up though . When you reset the ecu (I think) the boost solinoid and relays "click" ect . Does it do that ? , Ie is the reset /eml light definitely working ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Has it definitely got a jdm ecu in it ? Changing the tps or icv can cause issues if the manual adjustment is in a different position . As the ecu thinks it's in a different position . Have you attached the engine loom earth to the inlet manifold? Did you reinstall the ignition igniter behind the boost solinoid bracket. As this is by passed when doing a newage coil pack conversion? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

When you say different inlet manifold, was it the same as the original (phase 1 ) ? Or was it the later phase 1.5 with the single coilpack in the centre of the inlet manifold ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Happy dayz . I'd suggest to get some three bond liquid gasket sealer for the block halves and sump .As cheaper stuff is known not to last . If they're not included in the full gasket set , turbo outlet ,up pipe and header oe gaskets. Dunno if you want to go the whole hog and get timing idlers and tensioner too [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I personally don't like stickers/graphics[emoji55] but I do like originality and things that are different to the norm [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Mines probably got enough ponies to be a low 12 second car ...... It's just the donkey driver that's letting it down [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah tbh I'd settle for a trouble free mapping session but before and after graphs would've been nice to see how much difference in hp it's made . Rather than just knowing that the turbo outlet pipe is much cooler to the touch. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I was lucky enough to find these with nearly new discs and pads for £350 [emoji41] Admittedly They normally go for about £450 second hand If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'll be there but I might not do the 1/4 as it depends on whether I get it mapped in time [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've found that most things rcm are expensive but very good quality. I was lucky enough to get some cossie headgaskets for £100 off a rally engine builder . Bought arp headstuds, acl shells ,new block bolts ,timing pulley set and full gasket kit from import car parts If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My first map in the v1 was halted to 1.2 bar of boost, by weak classic coil packs [emoji57] the graph looked more like a ecg if he turned up the boost anymore than that lol . . i fitted newage coilpacks and maxed out the maf or apexi intake but hopefully I'll get the fuel rails fitted ,z32 maf and the new turbo tweeked in sometime later this month. Tbh that graph won't help either as it won't be back to back , Cos I changed from a tdo5 to a aps sr40 turbo [emoji5] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Cheers piggy , it's kept me occupied lol . I did consider fitting my uk turbo's headlight washer jets in front of the fmic core [emoji6] But i didn't want to keep squirting screen wash over the front of the car and couldn't be arsed to set up a separate reservoir and switch [emoji5] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Well best of luck and keep us posted, bud [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've definitely explored most avenues of thermal control in the bay and they do make a difference. So far I've ..... Fitted a reverse inlet, to shorten the intercooler core to throttle body fmic pipework . Fitted Thermal manifold spacers ,to lessen heat soak from the heads to the inlet manifold. Clocked the turbo coldside to shorten the fmic pipework and get rid of the heatsoaking 180° bend over the turbo hotside. fitted a turbo blanket and heat wrapped ,headers ,up pipe and downpipe to keep bay temps down and to keep the gasses hot and flowing quicker . Other than flipping the fmic core and lagging what's left of the fmic pipework I can't really think of anything else that would help . But I'm sure I'll think of something else to do eventually lol . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hmmm scooby scraps vouchers. They're the only reason you'll ever catch me plastering at the weekend [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice choice chap [emoji41] My cusco decat downpipe had the "tongue" between wastegate and hot side turbine outlet like your sports cat . It's supposed to lessen the turbulence in exhaust gasses but I had to cut it off to fit the bigger turbo lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I bought my forged Mahle pistons from here http://www.advancedautomotives.com/index.asp?function=search Think mine were about £530 for my ej20 cdb but they are the 750 hp rated ones and I think the 450hp ones are a bit cheaper . Once you've checked the deck height and piston "bowl" cc I just spoke to their tech support about tolerances for rings and head gasket thickness required. I'd recommend getting cossie or rcm "stopper" headgaskets .as they have a virtron rubber coating that helps them not to blow between cylinder bore and coolant ports . I bought almost everything for my build from either advanced automotive or import car parts but give them a ring and talk to them . As they don't list everything on their websites and they'll do a fair discount if you bulk buy over the phone [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you do decide to go for a fmic it will have to be mapped in to run safely. So it's probably not worth fitting untill you've got a block , turbo ,injectors and drive train that will make your 400+hp target . As you won't get much gain untill they're all fitted 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Have you got the new block yet and if so I'd measure the bores for ovality and taper to determine if it just needs a hone or a 0.5mm over bore . Otherwise you might end up buying standard sized pistons that won't fit in a over bored block . Mr b is right about checking the piston bowl cc as if it differs from the standard piston crown you'll have to adjust the headgasket thickness to get the ideal 8.5.1 compression ratio . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Both classic and newage sti's have the water spray system.(water bottle , water jets, switch on the dash ) . when fitted you can set it on auto mode or manually use it from the switch . I dare say you can fit one to any intercooler core but how you wire it in from scratch, instead of just plugging it in and flicking a switch on a sti , is beyond me I'm afraid. As mr b says Tmic's work fine and even a fmic will suffer from heatsoak, from being close to the rad and extra ally pipework in the bay . Mines a early 94 classic and the phase 1 inlet restricts the tmic size at about 320hp . Newage tmic's are much bigger ,especially the sti or even bigger aftermarket ones . But I also agree with tidgy and the top of a engine doesn't sound like the best position for a air cooler . The fact that there's a limit to a tmic hp and not for a fmic set up , makes me think, that for maximum high hp fmic is the more efficient. Dunno at what level you sacrifice driveabilty (spool) for hp though [emoji16] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've got a 3" cat back with a 2.5 " flange to mate up with a standard size downpipe . I'd prefer collected from Suffolk £80 but I could post at your expense, you'd have to pm me your postcode so I could work out a total cost first though If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It depends on what's more important to you and what you want the car too do . After all some take a perfectly good awd rally bred scooby and drop em on their bellies with massive camber and stretched tyres. I don't wanna plan my journey around speed humps , think it looks terrible and would be too scared to push it in the corners in case a tyre popped off a rim [emoji23] But hey variety is the spice of life and each to their own with cars and modding imo [emoji41] Maybe you could look at getting your current 18's refurbed in a different colour to stop em looking so "lost in the arches " I've got "polar black" rims on my silver classic, which (when clean ) reflects a lot more light to make the wheels stand out more [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊