savage bulldogs

Get it fired up yer big woose [emoji23] , I'm sure everything's ok but you're be worrying about it untill you know she purring again [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Most d.v springs will only operate above 0.3 bar of positive boost and above. So the noise you here from the air filter is probably turbo stall or "flutter" when stationery as the dump valve won't be able to get enough vacuum or boost to operate fully without the engine being under load (pulling the cars weight along). It might be worth getting the mapper to check over the fuelling and boost map though . As you've just fitted a new up pipe and that might change the gas flow a bit and you might need the map tweeking a bit If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem gaz , I dunno exactly when I replied either but it was sometime early part of last month. We've had a chat on the phone since then anyways , I'll let you know when the next s.c meet is as I'll probably be going again (if the weather's good) There was only about 8 scoobs there last time but that included 3 x 2.1 stroker powered scoobs running 350 + hp .a p1 running just over 450hp .a v3 sti v limited . a cashmere yellow type r . And my old girl of course [emoji6] Its a Small club but what it lacks in numbers it makes up for with a fair few ponies [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yep + 1 for any rim size over 18's making the drive worse . As the smaller tyre wall size doesn't absorb the bumps or give you as much traction in the twisties. I ran 18's for a week then switched back to 17's on my classic for the same reason. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've seen 1 on a carbon clad bugeye wagon somewhere on the net , so I'd imagine someone sells em . Have you tried Darren at abw ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Cheers sandy , shame the bodyworks has a fair few blemishes but hopefully (if I keep em clean ) the rear arches won't fall off this one [emoji16] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Getting a bit bored waiting for the custom intake pipe to get fabricated, so I've ordered up the ally bends I need from "Ash" then I can get it cut n prepped for welding together . The reshell has seen 2 winters and I decided to give the rear wheels a polish , arches a clean then seal them up . On a whole the paintwork i did is holding up really well Only bit of rust is on the captive nut and thread Did manage to get a coat of polish and poor boys sealant on the rear wheels before the heavens opened [emoji41] but got wet bolting the fookers back on and dropping the car of the axle stands [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sorry bud , ignore my last comment. I was running around on stilts plastering a ceiling ,decided to sit on the window sill to take a breather and got my rich and lean numbers mixed up. Unsure if position would affect the afr as much as it would egt but I'd ignore my signature [emoji116] and leave it be lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The 2.5 ltr engine runs a different sump to the 2ltr and the headers are a different shape to fit round the sump [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it the same fitment as the Toyota version try mentioning that in your adds on non subaru sites . . It will widen your chances as there was a lot more Toyota versions made [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Did you go mafless when you had the map done ? Looks a bit like it's been mapped safely at full throttle but hasn't had much time spent on trimming the fuel at different throttle positions . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I'm sure they only need 1 . Only classics I've seen with 2 sensors is a mates but that's a egt sensor that he fitted . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The spigot bearing is in the centre of the flywheel to hold the gearbox shaft central. They cost under a tenner and just "tap" into the flywheel. Definitely worth changing as they do wear out about the same life span as a clutch plate [emoji6] I'd suggest you check the flywheel for cracks and smoothness and get it skimmed if there's any major ridges in it . As that lessens the chance of clutch "judder" Also might be worth buying new drive shaft and prop shaft seals (about £50 for all 3) as it's only about 20 mins extra labour to fit them while the box is already out [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Not often you see a project thread in reverse but better the devil you know [emoji6] What pads are you running in the front brembos? As I've gotta switch the current red stuff pads for some that actually work when cold [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome, nice clean looking classic you've got there 😎 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Glad you've got a offer to look at it from Duncan ,hopefully you'll fall back in love with a bit boost n burble in your life 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sounds like your having a bit of a rough time of it at the moment, but stick the failure list , couple of pics and let us know what county your in . Then hopefully someone will be able to point you in the right direction. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Give "mattyb br developments " a search on here for his contact details . He's a good bloke that breaks a fair few scoobies and might have a good set in stock . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sorry I thought it was a 04 sti . In that case the engine is probably at its reliable limit and the 5 speed 04 box is normally pushed at 400hp. So you'll have to add £1.5 k for a 6 speed conversion kit , £3k for engine parts/ stronger block , £2.5k for turbo /injectors /fmic and the cost of the ecu . Unfortunately that's without any labour whatsoever and you can expect just the engine build labour to be £3k + If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You have to cut away the lower grill , back of the fog light bracket and a little bit of the lower Web of the chassis when fitting one to a classic. Nothing a dremel won't do but I'm unsure if you need to do the same when fitting 1 to a newage , as I've only ever owned classics. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Not the best pics , my bays not standard and I run a apexi fc ecu. Its not exactly in the same place as I run Groupe slip jointed headers but the standard headers have the o2 sensor in roughly in that area . The same wire in your first pic goes to the o2 sensor which is in the headers just before the up pipe. Under the alarm box You can just about see a black bit (o2 sensor ) jutting out from the headers and going under the chassis leg . I'm also running a cusco decat downpipe but I've just bunged the later classic o2 sensor hole with a spare o2 sensor and have left it unplugged (as there's not anywhere to plug it in ). You can see the plug jus swinging there but eventually I'll fit a wideband sensor in its place [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's a jdm sti they are semi forged and can handle 450hp ish max (pending on condition and supporting mods ) I think the uk versions are normally good for 400hp but you'd be better off googling that to confirm. At least you'll have the 6 speed box and R180 hubs and diff as standard, which will handle your 500 hp target . So I'd imagine that with a fmic ,turbo, bigger injectors and uprated clutch should you should see 420hp ish . After that you'd probably need bigger brakes and a stronger deck type block with uprated internals for reliable 450hp + . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

What's the year and model of your scoob ? As that would give us an idea as to what power the standard engine and drive train will cope with . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I can't download the pics as the signals crap where I'm working today but I'll have a look and chuck a couple up of mine this evening. Up to v2 should only have the o2 sensor pre up pipe and just a bung in the downpipe hole . Later classic have just the 1 in the downpipe after the turbo but pre cat .Whereas newage have at least 2 sensors , posibily 3 on the sti for a lambda halfway through the centre section of the exhaust. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Induction kit and a dump valve with a uprated stiffer spring will give a bit of chatter and is likely to be a bit easier on the turbo core than a dump valve delete [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊