savage bulldogs

I'll be there but I might not do the 1/4 as it depends on whether I get it mapped in time [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've found that most things rcm are expensive but very good quality. I was lucky enough to get some cossie headgaskets for £100 off a rally engine builder . Bought arp headstuds, acl shells ,new block bolts ,timing pulley set and full gasket kit from import car parts If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My first map in the v1 was halted to 1.2 bar of boost, by weak classic coil packs [emoji57] the graph looked more like a ecg if he turned up the boost anymore than that lol . . i fitted newage coilpacks and maxed out the maf or apexi intake but hopefully I'll get the fuel rails fitted ,z32 maf and the new turbo tweeked in sometime later this month. Tbh that graph won't help either as it won't be back to back , Cos I changed from a tdo5 to a aps sr40 turbo [emoji5] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Cheers piggy , it's kept me occupied lol . I did consider fitting my uk turbo's headlight washer jets in front of the fmic core [emoji6] But i didn't want to keep squirting screen wash over the front of the car and couldn't be arsed to set up a separate reservoir and switch [emoji5] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Well best of luck and keep us posted, bud [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've definitely explored most avenues of thermal control in the bay and they do make a difference. So far I've ..... Fitted a reverse inlet, to shorten the intercooler core to throttle body fmic pipework . Fitted Thermal manifold spacers ,to lessen heat soak from the heads to the inlet manifold. Clocked the turbo coldside to shorten the fmic pipework and get rid of the heatsoaking 180° bend over the turbo hotside. fitted a turbo blanket and heat wrapped ,headers ,up pipe and downpipe to keep bay temps down and to keep the gasses hot and flowing quicker . Other than flipping the fmic core and lagging what's left of the fmic pipework I can't really think of anything else that would help . But I'm sure I'll think of something else to do eventually lol . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hmmm scooby scraps vouchers. They're the only reason you'll ever catch me plastering at the weekend [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice choice chap [emoji41] My cusco decat downpipe had the "tongue" between wastegate and hot side turbine outlet like your sports cat . It's supposed to lessen the turbulence in exhaust gasses but I had to cut it off to fit the bigger turbo lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I bought my forged Mahle pistons from here http://www.advancedautomotives.com/index.asp?function=search Think mine were about £530 for my ej20 cdb but they are the 750 hp rated ones and I think the 450hp ones are a bit cheaper . Once you've checked the deck height and piston "bowl" cc I just spoke to their tech support about tolerances for rings and head gasket thickness required. I'd recommend getting cossie or rcm "stopper" headgaskets .as they have a virtron rubber coating that helps them not to blow between cylinder bore and coolant ports . I bought almost everything for my build from either advanced automotive or import car parts but give them a ring and talk to them . As they don't list everything on their websites and they'll do a fair discount if you bulk buy over the phone [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you do decide to go for a fmic it will have to be mapped in to run safely. So it's probably not worth fitting untill you've got a block , turbo ,injectors and drive train that will make your 400+hp target . As you won't get much gain untill they're all fitted 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Have you got the new block yet and if so I'd measure the bores for ovality and taper to determine if it just needs a hone or a 0.5mm over bore . Otherwise you might end up buying standard sized pistons that won't fit in a over bored block . Mr b is right about checking the piston bowl cc as if it differs from the standard piston crown you'll have to adjust the headgasket thickness to get the ideal 8.5.1 compression ratio . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Both classic and newage sti's have the water spray system.(water bottle , water jets, switch on the dash ) . when fitted you can set it on auto mode or manually use it from the switch . I dare say you can fit one to any intercooler core but how you wire it in from scratch, instead of just plugging it in and flicking a switch on a sti , is beyond me I'm afraid. As mr b says Tmic's work fine and even a fmic will suffer from heatsoak, from being close to the rad and extra ally pipework in the bay . Mines a early 94 classic and the phase 1 inlet restricts the tmic size at about 320hp . Newage tmic's are much bigger ,especially the sti or even bigger aftermarket ones . But I also agree with tidgy and the top of a engine doesn't sound like the best position for a air cooler . The fact that there's a limit to a tmic hp and not for a fmic set up , makes me think, that for maximum high hp fmic is the more efficient. Dunno at what level you sacrifice driveabilty (spool) for hp though [emoji16] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah it's a bit of a faf but I've had a couple of goes and I'm sold ,so will definitely be buying a early enlisted copy when the time comes [emoji41] I'd have probably bought it anyway as I've had all the bf series since bf2 and all the cods since cod 2 . Cod has lost its way for me , fastest finger first on a pogo stick isn't my cuppa [emoji57] Much prefer tactical team work with realistic game play and spawning [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm now downloading this for the ps4 now but it wasn't in the "store" . I had to go on the bf1 website ,log in , change my format to next gen darkside and then they email you a code to be redeemed in "store" [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've got a 3" cat back with a 2.5 " flange to mate up with a standard size downpipe . I'd prefer collected from Suffolk £80 but I could post at your expense, you'd have to pm me your postcode so I could work out a total cost first though If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It depends on what's more important to you and what you want the car too do . After all some take a perfectly good awd rally bred scooby and drop em on their bellies with massive camber and stretched tyres. I don't wanna plan my journey around speed humps , think it looks terrible and would be too scared to push it in the corners in case a tyre popped off a rim [emoji23] But hey variety is the spice of life and each to their own with cars and modding imo [emoji41] Maybe you could look at getting your current 18's refurbed in a different colour to stop em looking so "lost in the arches " I've got "polar black" rims on my silver classic, which (when clean ) reflects a lot more light to make the wheels stand out more [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Get it fired up yer big woose [emoji23] , I'm sure everything's ok but you're be worrying about it untill you know she purring again [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Most d.v springs will only operate above 0.3 bar of positive boost and above. So the noise you here from the air filter is probably turbo stall or "flutter" when stationery as the dump valve won't be able to get enough vacuum or boost to operate fully without the engine being under load (pulling the cars weight along). It might be worth getting the mapper to check over the fuelling and boost map though . As you've just fitted a new up pipe and that might change the gas flow a bit and you might need the map tweeking a bit If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem gaz , I dunno exactly when I replied either but it was sometime early part of last month. We've had a chat on the phone since then anyways , I'll let you know when the next s.c meet is as I'll probably be going again (if the weather's good) There was only about 8 scoobs there last time but that included 3 x 2.1 stroker powered scoobs running 350 + hp .a p1 running just over 450hp .a v3 sti v limited . a cashmere yellow type r . And my old girl of course [emoji6] Its a Small club but what it lacks in numbers it makes up for with a fair few ponies [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yep + 1 for any rim size over 18's making the drive worse . As the smaller tyre wall size doesn't absorb the bumps or give you as much traction in the twisties. I ran 18's for a week then switched back to 17's on my classic for the same reason. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've seen 1 on a carbon clad bugeye wagon somewhere on the net , so I'd imagine someone sells em . Have you tried Darren at abw ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Cheers sandy , shame the bodyworks has a fair few blemishes but hopefully (if I keep em clean ) the rear arches won't fall off this one [emoji16] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Getting a bit bored waiting for the custom intake pipe to get fabricated, so I've ordered up the ally bends I need from "Ash" then I can get it cut n prepped for welding together . The reshell has seen 2 winters and I decided to give the rear wheels a polish , arches a clean then seal them up . On a whole the paintwork i did is holding up really well Only bit of rust is on the captive nut and thread Did manage to get a coat of polish and poor boys sealant on the rear wheels before the heavens opened [emoji41] but got wet bolting the fookers back on and dropping the car of the axle stands [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sorry bud , ignore my last comment. I was running around on stilts plastering a ceiling ,decided to sit on the window sill to take a breather and got my rich and lean numbers mixed up. Unsure if position would affect the afr as much as it would egt but I'd ignore my signature [emoji116] and leave it be lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The 2.5 ltr engine runs a different sump to the 2ltr and the headers are a different shape to fit round the sump [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊