savage bulldogs

No the pipe that goes to it is from the idle control valve , but yours runs through a metal hard pipe under the inlet . Whereas I'm running a v3 idle control valve ( icv ) and a blue pipe over the top of the inlet

Could try giving Alyn @ Asperformance a bell, he might have a aftermarket oil pick up in stock and dispatches fast . Alyn +441914103770 The "fixing / strengthening the old 1 was just a idea , as I don't know much about the 2.5 pick up. I just thought if it's a weak point , why not upgrade it to rule it out . My original 2ltr oil pick up is nearly 23yrs old and still keeps up with my rcm oil pump fine .

Watched a fair few of the laps , nice work keeping the track capable scooby flag flying and tyres a screeching [emoji41] And well held on the 3rd or 4th lap , after a left to right hand corner the car did nippy nought slide [emoji33] [emoji90] [emoji28] [emoji41]

What you need is called a "resonator delete" for a v1/v2 phase 1 impreza . The most common brand found is the apexi resonator delete but I used to run a unbranded one . I've removed most of the oe pipework under the inlet manifold so the icv pipework takes a different route but you can see the "delete" in this pic. you'd just have to connect your red circled pipe to where my blue pipe is connected on my delete Hopefully that makes sense lol .

Hope you've caught it early enough that it's not done any damage . Do you know anyone who could fix the damage and weld a brace or fish plate in to strengthen it at the same time ? Might be a better option than buying/ waiting for a standard replacement.

I'd suggest to get it on a dyno to check it's running safe , its only about £50 , which is a lot cheaper than a engine rebuild . Failing that try to keep it off boost especially in 3rd and above when the engines under greater loads

It's probably not been mapped and the decat is causing overboost and leaner fuelling (not good ) has it got a boost gauge and if so what does it boost too ? If it's over 1 bar it's probably been mapped but unfortunately the only real way to tell is to get it plugged in by a tuner . As the common way to map a bug is with ecutek software which doesn't change the physical appearance of the ecu .

I quite like the idea of a contract free tracker like this one . http://www.suffolkalarms.co.uk/index_files/Contract_Free_Tracking.htm If someone manages to get past my security system and take my car . I'll know where it is and me and a few mates can go and "retrieve" it without bothering the police or my insurance company [emoji6]

Lovely looking classic, nice work [emoji106]

Pull the crank sensor off , it will turn over but not fire [emoji6]

If it's shortly after start up and you've got a big bore zorst it could just be moisture . Just keep a close eye on your oil n water levels

Forgot to mention on my last post, I also fitted a full set of Goodrich phantom braided lines and carbon metallic pads in the brembos up front . Can't say if they've improved overall as I want them to bed in before jumping on the brakes but the cold bite seems a lot better than the previous red stuff pads . Well I had a trip to the dyno today to finally get some mods mapped in . Unfortunately a faulty actuator stopped play [emoji53] Attowe checked the actuator with a gauge and it's releasing the waste gate at 0.4 bar. So No matter how much he increased the wastegate duty it struggled to make the boost targets and hold them . It still made 340hp /320 flbs , pulls much better than before the tweek and I know it's running safe now but I'll be looking out for a uprated 1 bar actuator and be heading to attowes again asap [emoji6] Did take a short vid on the dyno to show the new cobra track day system at full chat but it's very noisy in his dyno cell due to the massive fans he has running .

Took it for a tweek on the dyno , but a weak actuator stopped play @ 340hp / 320 flbs 🤔 Well at least I definitely know know what my next mod will be [emoji23]

Sorry I can't be of much use , sparky stuff ain't my forte fella . Let me know how you get on , and if it works what method you used

Unfortunately I don't know where to get the mechanical speedo drive km to mph conversion bit from . As mine already had 1 fitted to the back of the clocks , it's just a crude looking a ally cylinder that the speedo cable plugs into .

I think the pins you use would depend on your particular model . As I know the early phase 1 tps has 4 wires , phase 1.5 tps's have 3 wires and newage have a different tps plug too

If it's just a case of bedding into the slight ridges , once the plate face has worn into the same shape as the flywheel, it will be making full contact and hopefully not judder .

If the icv is in the factory position on a standard car I'd leave it as is . I think There is a way to calibrate a new tps with a voltmeter but I'd have to check through my pdf service manual to find out . It might be worth a google if nobody else knows .

Hi n welcome. Nice looking unabashed example you've found there [emoji106]

Generally it's only really noticeable on pull away if it's to do with flywheel surface flatness . As sandy said it can dissappear after a while once it beds in to the flywheel surface (if the ridges weren't exessive) I've only ever fitted 4 clutches , 1 with a new lightweight exedy flywheel and the other 3 with old oe flywheels. I never had any judder but I had the old ones I fitted skimmed ,cos they had visual "ridges" in them .

I bought a z32 maf and have been putting off fitting it ,as you have to cut a different maf plug into the loom [emoji51] After a quick search I soon found a post from Simon roe of jolly green monster (thanks si ,rip buddy) . This listed the pins on both plugs for the conversion [emoji41] So I decided to splice the tomei maf plug in and keep the oe maf plug too , just in case it was too far out of "scale " to make it run well enough . I didn't take to many pics as I was pushed to get it done and back together before I lost daylight this evening. Mid "hack" [emoji85] Fitted I changed the setting on the apexi fc hand controller to allow for the bigger bore maf scale Although it hunts a bit on idle it drives fine off boost [emoji41] but I might switch over to the old maf and settings untill I get it tweeked in . because I've kept the oe plug and I get boost withdrawal extremely quickly [emoji23]

Judder can be caused by ridges in the flywheel that are worn in by the old clutch plates rivits or oil contamination, did you check the flywheel for flatness before bolting the new clutch on ?

Hacking my engine loom to bits [emoji33] To fit the z32 maf [emoji6]

I'm fairly sure that they'll fit a classic, bug or blob with brembos fitted . As I bought some Goodrich phantom braided lines last week and when I spoke to alyn @ Asperformance he said they'd fit any of the above [emoji6]

At least the xt looks like a cross between a early legacy and a svx . The cassawanker looks like something that has been drawn up by someone who eats the wrong sort of mushrooms. It hurts my eyes make it stop [emoji85]