Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'outback'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Welcome to UK Subaru Owners Club
    • New Members Introductions
    • Discount Scheme
    • General Subaru Chat
    • Junk Room
    • Motorsport Chat
    • Subaru Gallery and Showroom
    • Subaru Members Area
    • Was it you?
    • Games/Console/Computer Nerd Room
    • Subaru Insurance Discussions
  • Subaru Clubs
    • Subaru Impreza Club
    • Subaru Legacy Club
    • Subaru BRZ Club
    • Subaru B9 Tribeca Club
    • Subaru Forester Club
    • Subaru Levorg Club
    • Subaru Outback Club
    • Subaru XV Club
  • Subaru in General
    • Subaru Engines, Exhausts and modifications
    • Subaru Tyres / Wheels & Suspension
    • Subaru Audio / Electronics / Security
    • Subaru Interiors
    • Subaru Car Care
    • Subaru Servicing / MOT / Dealers
    • Subaru Build Threads
    • Subaru How-To Section
  • Subaru Owners Club Meets
    • Car Shows
    • Regional Meets
  • Subaru Technical
    • Subaru How-To Guides
  • Subaru Marketplace
    • Sell your car via Wizzle
    • Member's Subarus For Sale
    • Subaru Parts For Sale
    • Subaru Group Buys
    • Subaru Parts Wanted


  • Subaru Impreza How-To Guides
  • Subaru Legacy How-To Guides
  • Subaru BRZ How-To Guides
  • Subaru Tribeca How-To Guides
  • Subaru Forester How-To Guides
  • Subaru Outback How-To Guides
  • Subaru XV How-To Guides

Product Groups

  • Converted Subscriptions
  • Premium Membership


  • Subaru Forum Videos
  • Subaru Impreza Videos
  • Subaru Forester Videos
  • Subaru Outback Videos
  • Subaru Legacy Videos
  • Subaru BRZ Videos
  • Subaru Modified

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start











Subaru Model

  1. Hi everyone, Hoping for some wisdom regarding the above. I'm helping a friend (who isn't really a car person) to fix his 2001 Subaru Outback 2.5. We've ascertained that it needs a new lambda sensor, but I'm struggling to find a replacement. I can see there are two sensors going into the section of the exhaust that contains two catalytic converters. There is one that goes in end-on, and seems to run pre-cat. And there's one that goes in from the top, after the first cat. It's this one that is the issue - the car hesitates and splutters a lot, and won't rev, unless you unplug that sensor. My confusion relates to the following... The sensor that needs to be replaced is a four-wire sensor, but when I look on eBay for matching parts I only get three-wire sensors come back. What's all that about? Does anyone know what other sensors (i.e. from other cars) are a match, technically? I found one intended for various Fords and Volvos that looks identical apart from the plug. The only Subaru sensor I could find that has the right connector is this one - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142804741377 - but that is not listed as matching this car, and is also described as a front sensor - presume ours is a rear sensor? I'll try and add some pics here so you can see what we've got. I'm pretty certain it's original as it was a one-owner car from an old couple, and doesn't seem to have been fiddled with. Would be very grateful for any advice you can offer!
  2. In these days of having to ford roads suffering from flash flooding, I was wondering if anyone knows if there is an official Subaru wading depth for Outbacks?
  3. Hi All, I've had engine warning light come on and my Cruise light flash repeatedly. I checked my ODB2 finding P0420 - Powertrain - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) fault. My local garage advised that this could be the lamda sensor failing rather than the cat, so I replaced that and cleared the fault code. Subsequently I've had the engine warning light come back on, and the fault code return, so having spoken to my garage again they've advised the cat needs to be replaced. What are my options here? The car has sone 105k miles and I'd like to get another 100k out of it, it's in very good order generally. I don't want to fit a cheap aftermarket cat, if I replace it I'll use an OEM or premium aftermarket option, which doing some research is going to cost me around £500-£600. The garage has suggested I de-cat the car until the MOT, then see if it fails due to emissions, and if it does replace the cat at that point. I guess my questions are: Has anyone here de-cat'd their Outback 2.5 and had it pass an MOT? Is there a way to permanently clear the fault code that will be caused by the decat? I'm happy to spend the money on a cat if I need to, but I'd prefer to spend it on a tow bar and lift kit. 😂 Any advice much appreciated.
  4. Hi, It's my first post on here, was wondering if anyone had any thoughts or ideas on best steps to take with the situation I'm in. I have a 59' reg (2010) Outback with the 3.6 EZ36 engine and I live in Aviemore, Scotland. I bought the car a couple of years back with 67k miles, 5k later the coolant light began to illuminate intermittently, this got worse to the point where it was flashing (indicating to pull over let the engine cool). The local garage carried out a pressure test, which came back fine, I proceeded to take it to the Dealer in Inverness who told me it's likely that the head gasket has gone; the dealer's initial price estimate for HG replacement is roughly £4000! I've yet to enquire with the local garage to see if they're able to do this, yet alone come up with a price estimate (they had to order a pressure testing kit for their initial check). I'm thinking I ought to try some liquid Head Gasket Sealer to see if that works first, but assuming it doesn't work and the local garage can't do the job, I'll be left to decide whether I get rid of the car or stick £000s into it (I originally bought it for £13k) Just for context, the journey from Inverness back into Aviemore has left me feeling uncomfortable driving any distant more than a few miles at a time due to having to pull over so often to let the engine cool, so I'll probably have to organise transport for the car to take it anywhere in the future. If anyone can recommend a Subaru/Japanese Car specialist that's not too far away it would be greatly appreciated; also if anyone has any experience with these or other Subaru engines with HG issues any advice would also be terrific 🙂 Thanks, Sam
  5. Hi Outback owners and enthusiastics. I own 2011 Outback. I came across the noise from the left passanger mirror. Both mirrors work fine, just the left one doesn't fold anymore. I think it has to do something with folding motor. Does anyone know if it's fixable without taking it to Subaru service? I tried to google replacement which I could easily change but was unlucky to find the exact one I have on my car. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks Hanys
  6. Hello all, Questions pretty self-explanatory; I recently picked up a '13 Outback SX which I'm very pleased with but I want to swap out the stereo. It came with an aftermarket already fitted (Pioneer AVIC-F840BT) which is functionally sound for a unit from 2012 but I can't upgrade the maps, and the Bluetooth seems a little intermittent at times, so I'm looking for a solid Android-based unit ideally that I can Waze on and anything else I decide to sideload because I don't like the idea of shelling out £500+ for the Waze-enabled Pioneer units. Anyone have any suggestions that might fit into the little 6.1" gap in the dash? TIA!
  7. I have a set of headlight units for a 2012 outback for sale. Excellent condition and working order. I took them off my Outback when I exported it to France last year (had to change to left hand drive versions to put French plates on it). Brought them back to the UK when I escaped the French lockdown in March and would now like to sell them. Based in Bromsgrove, West Midlands. The car they came from is here too at present but that’s not for sale. £300 ono
  8. Hey guys. Got a bit of a strange one. Recently bought my 2.0D 2010 Subaru Outback Manual, and after I've been driving the car for a while (about 2 or so hours) across the day, the car violently judders when I move off the line in first gear. Has anyone else had this problem? Eg. I can go on a long(ish) drive on the motorway, and the clutch and car will be fine when I leave. Once I pull into a town, I change nothing about my driving style, and the car starts shuddering. In my opinion Its a clutch issue, and I can more or less get around it if I slowly get the car rolling then quickly drop the clutch, but I hate doing it, and I'm looking to try and fix it. Either way this has got me beat! I bought this car not too long ago, and it can really get me down. Thanks guys!
  9. In the dark, in the rain, I reversed into a black 2ft high pole (who puts a black pole up in a car park?) Which cracked the plastic scratch guard. Has anyone replaced this, is one readily available, and is it glued on?
  10. I am the proud owner of a Subaru Outback 2.5 2007 SE. and love it. But I do have a few gripes about it. I cannot seem to be able to Buy OEM splash guards / mud flaps / gravel guards you choose. I've seen some for sale at S Pecht subaru stealership £65 plus VAT and delivery for the front set and the same for the rear totaling £171. It seems a little steep considering the choice for every model after mine on Ebay / Amazon etc any one know if there are any reasonably priced ones anywhere els?
  11. Hello, does anyone know if the Outback currently on sale in the UK is based on the Subaru Global Platform (i.e the same as the 2020 US outback)? I'm impressed by what i've seen and heard of the newewst US incarnation of this car but not sure the UK is at quite the same standard yet..
  12. Hi All, new to the forum and come seeking your expert help pleas. I’ve got a completely standard 2010 Outback SE, so far so dull. After someone kindly wiped their car down one side it’s back from the body-shop, naming no names but they’ve been pretty shoddy and I’m putting together a list of gripes to take back to my insurer. I think having had the rear bumper off, they’ve lost some trim bits around the wheel arch, sorry for the pics of a muddy car but I think there should maybe be some splash guard, trim or something where the holes now are. Or have they just got the wheel arch lining in the wrong way? If anyone has some pictures of what the rear arch trim should look like, it would be much appreciated. And to make this a bit more exciting, having been looking at a lot of pictures of Outback mud flaps recently, are Rally Armor mud flaps any good as an upgrade or is there something else worth fitting with minimum hassle? Many thanks, James
  13. Hello There's a forum for everything isn't there? I've lost count of the amount I've joined.. So I was looking for a 4 wheel drive estate: Audi Allroad (overpriced) Volvo XC70 (too old manish), Skoda (too Skoda) Jaguar X-type (see Volvo) etc. Then came upon reviews for the Outback and magically all the boxes were ticked. I bought a 2009 one with low mileage and a FMDSH a few weeks a go and love it - the sound from that boxer engine, the handling, the look and feel plus i did a bit of grassy/muddy field crossing with it yesterday without a blip. I have only one question thats bugging me - The sound system has an AUX function, but the AUX socket that should be in the armrest box is blank. Can I retrofit this or does it mean a load of hassle? (Nobody has CD's anymore...) Cheers.
  14. Subaru Outback / legacy facelift (06-09) Honeycomb Grill £160 posted U.K. mainland .
  15. Hello - new to this forum - all looks good so far. Need some advice please: 2007 2.5 SE manual outback making a real werring noise from the back (my wife describes its as having a motor bike behind you the whole time). Starts in around 30mph the gets louder as you go faster and its slowly getting worse. So far I have tried: 1. Checking the centre bearing on the prop shaft: Turns freely - not that 2. Changing the passenger side rear wheel bearing (hub assembly) - where the it sounded like it was coming from if you sat in the back - not that. Now wondering if it is A. Other rear wheel bearing, B. one of the drive shaft joints (unlikely - all 4 CV rubber boots like fine) or C. The differential. Tempted just to swap out the diff. as a precaution BUT not sure if the many diffs from gen 3 outback diesels listed on Ebay are correct for this 2.5 SE manual.Is there a listing anywhere for diff. part numbers to model / year? Is there a fool proof way of sorting out a noisy differential form a failing wheel bearing ? Don't want to start a 'money pit' round of swapping out parts needlessly but do need to get this fixed. So any advice or guidance would be much appreciated. PS: Generally well impressed by the elegance of the design of these cars.
  16. Drop links, sway bar links, anti-roll bars - different names, same job. But if you want to change them, it's actually quite easy to do. And they are pretty much the same from model to model. An easy job to do if you're competent with a spanner, have some decent kit and a bit of muscle. You don't need to take the wheels off, nor do you need heat or an air spanner. You might do... The symptoms are side to side rolling at high speed corners, and more noticeable, feeling every stone you drive over. A jolting, jarring ride. And you'll never get the tracking right as there is too much play. Their purpose is to connect the axle/wishbone to a torsion bar so that the 'bump' is transferred to a piece of spring steel and not to you. It's pretty much the same parts and procedure from model to model. If it's this way on an Outback, then it's the same on a Legacy etc. Step by step, read on. Photo 1. I made my own ramps out of old scaffolding boards. Drive on, handbrake on and in gear. Photo 2. The tools you need: 1/2 inch ratchet with a 17mm socket. 5mm allen drive on a 3/8 ratchet 17mm ratchet spanner 17mm ring spanner Crow bar - to move things around if needed Torch A hammer for fine adjusting Penetrating oil. Photo 3. How it starts. Spray the threads, the nut and any joining surfaces with penetrating oil and then go away. Have breakfast, drink coffee, watch a film. You may need to spray again. Notice the alignment of the threaded bars - they're nearly parallel. This will change as you put in the new ones. Photo 4. Not going to photograph every step of the way so this is a picture of the new one but the procedure is the same. Use the 1/2" 17mm socket to loosen the nut because you get a better fit, more leverage and you're not going to round off the nut. Put the allen drive into the end of the bar to stop it from rotating and a 17mm spanner to undo the nut. A ratchet spanner is really handy. Photo 5. They come off the same way that they go on. Notice the alignment of the threaded bars - not parallel any more because the torsion bar has moved - it's under a different strain from the other side of the car. Photo 7. When the nuts are off, it looks like this. No air spanners needed, just British muscle. Photo 8. If you are forcing the new links in, they you're doing it wrong. You do not need a hammer. Use a trolley jack to alter the position of the torsion bar. Either it needs to go up of the wishbone needs to. Line up the holes and pop the new drop links straight in. Nuts on and tighten with your ratchet spanner, allen drive to hold it steady and tighten them up with a ring spanner. The nuts are nylon lock nuts so they'll lock on. I have no idea as to what torque setting it is, but you won't get a torque drive in their anyway. Just pinch them up with a ring spanner. Photo 9. The finished article. It shouldn't need tracking as this doesn't effect that alignment. Photo 10. The old. These are ball and socket joints, covered by a rubber gaiter. The bottom two were seized solid. The gaiter on the top left has a hole in it so was full of water. The top right was the only one that was working reasonably well. Quite possibly the originals with 92000 miles on them. Photo 11. The new. These are made by 'Blue Print' a brand available in England. Just reboxed OEM kit. £18 each, cheaper online. Photo 12. Side by side. No photo 6
  17. We’ve had Subarus - Imprezas, Legacy and currently Outback - for over 30 years. Never had much trouble with them until the current 61 diesel Outback which recently displayed several warning lights on the dash. The garage we’ve always used (not a Subaru dealer) checked it - on diagnostics they said - and decided it was just a warning light malfunction. The lights came back on just before we were due to go on holiday so we the left car with them. On our return garage says it was a glow plug failure and one broke as they tried to get it out. They’ve now had it 3 weeks and say it will be upwards of £1500 to repair. Does this seem reasonable? At this stage there’s nothing we can do except have it repaired but I’m now considering looking for a new regular garage as this seems OTT.  Any recommendations in N Notts/Derbys area?
  18. Subaru UK announces specifications and pricing of the 2018 Outback, an update on the current generation model 2018 Subaru Outback receives upgrades to exterior and interior designs Inclusion of Lane Keep Assist completes EyeSight safety technologies on 2018 model Available in two trim levels, SE and SE Premium Significant upgrades and redesign for 2018 model come at no extra cost to customers Pricing remains the same as , starting from £29,995 for the SE model to £33,010 for the SE Premium model Host to a series of updates, both to the exterior and interior, Outback is a rugged crossover estate, redesigned to raise cabin quality and refine the model’s plethora of safety offerings. The Outback update showcases Subaru’s ‘Better Where It Matters’ brand ethos offering excellent safety, capability and reliability credentials. Boasting a significant upgrade in technology and trim, the changes come at no extra costs for customers as pricing remains the same as the previous model. Among the most significant changes to the exterior design for Outback is the redesigned front grille, bumper, door mirrors and headlights. The hexagonal grille redesign showcases a sharper, more defined shape and incorporates the distinctive Subaru wing design, which draws parallels to the iconic horizontally opposed Subaru Boxer engine. An addition to both the exterior design and the safety suite is a new front view camera, which has been positioned below the marques six-star badge. Placed on the front grille, the front view camera can monitor a 180°-degree area in front of the car that would normally be in the driver’s blind spot. These images, as well as visible guidelines, are displayed on the touchscreen to aide drivers in gauging potential hazards in front of the car and improve overall manoeuvering. Allowing for increased all-round visibility, the 2018 Outback SUV is fitted with an additional side view camera mounted at the base of the passenger door mirror. Displaying the area diagonally in front of the passenger side of the Outback, the resulting imaging allows drivers to navigate through narrow spaces with greater ease. A “view” switch has also been positioned next to the X-Mode button allowing the driver to move between display options on the centre touchscreen. A welcome addition to the Outback is the inclusion of Lane Keep Assist, which completes the EyeSight driver assistance safety technology suite – included as standard on all 2018 Outback models. Lane Keep Assist offers gentle steering control if the vehicle is about to deviate from its lane at approximately 40mph or above. Subaru’s EyeSight driver assist technology suite includes: Adaptive Cruise Control, Lead Vehicle Start Alert, Lane Sway and Departure Warning, Lane Keep Assist, Pre-collision Braking System and Pre-collision Throttle Management. Steering Responsive Headlights are also new to Outback, with the introduction improving driver safety and increasing visibility at night. The headlight beams mirror the driver’s steering input to illuminate corners when turning. Interior changes include a subtle redesign to improve the atmosphere for occupants of Outback. New decorative gloss black panels and silver surrounds create a consistent and sophisticated look, whilst the touchscreen size has been increased from 7” to a new 8” multifunction colour touchscreen for the SE Premium model, which is also compatible with both Apple CarPlay™ & Android Auto™ and DAB radio functionality. The SE trim level also receives and refresh with an updated 6.5” multifunction colour touchscreen and fabric seating trim with heated front seats. Outback is powered by a naturally-aspirated 2.5-litre ‘FB25’ petrol unit. Due to the size and shape of Subaru’s Boxer engine, it is installed lower down and further back than a conventional engine for a lower centre of gravity and transitions beneath the passenger compartment in the event of a collision, providing an added level of safety for occupants within the vehicle. The Boxer engine – with its unique ‘punch-counterpunch’ rotational cycle – offers smoothness, low vibration and noise, plus excellent accelerator response. The 2.5L engine produces 175PS at 5,800rpm and 235Nm torque at 4,000rpm. The engine returns fuel economy of 38.7mpg on the combined cycle and CO2 emissions of 166g/km. Prices for the 2018 Subaru Outback start from £29,995 for the SE Model and £33,010 for the SE Premium. Pricing for the new model remains unchanged from the outgoing Outback, with updated features and redesigns baring no additional costs for customers and drivers.
  19. Aarrrrrrgh! My 2008 Outback 2.5 diesel has died after the oil pump failed. The pain is I just spent a lump on it over the last year inc; 4 brand new tyres, new turbo, new clutch, new brakes and pads etc Subaru delaer and other garages have quoted me twice the vehicles worth to repair / replace... looks like i have to offload it! Such a nice, well looked after car - was my girlfriends weapon of choice for nearly 3yrs (I borrowed it whenever allowed) and invested in it expecting more loyal service. Have a look at the ad - would like for it to go to a good home to be rebuilt and used, not stripped. www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C975291 Any thoughts or suggestions very gladly recieved Thanks
  20. I am reluctantly selling my 3.0 rn as I have just changed my job .It is the facelift model with 135000 miles and full service history , last year it had new plugs and also the auto box oil was changed. She has a full stainless steel powerflow exhaust , rear parking sensors, new tires in December and the alloys have been refurbished . Mot till June 15th 2018 with no advisories . Everything works as it should including the flappy paddle gearchange and the SI drive . I am asking for £2500 .
  21. Hi all, new to the forum and recently purchased our first Outback. It's a 2005 2.5 petrol, manual, non turbo. We have developed a quite severe knocking/clunking/trying to jump sideways feeling when turning at low speed, forwards or backwards, either direction. It sort of feels like you're running either on a flat tyre or running over large cats eyes! The car also has a loud-ish whining noise that increases with speed. I have serviced the vehicle and changed the front drive shafts as there was slight wear in the CV joints - this has made no difference. The only play I can find in the transmission is a slight movement to the inner CV joints where they enter the gearbox and rear axle. Any suggestions would be gratefully received, scratching our heads here!!
  22. Hi, After forty years of driving other things I've just got my first Subaru. It's a 2007 Outback 3.0 with just over 100k on the clock. First impressions are great - really impressed with the way it handles (and the "Go Faster" button on the steering wheel). I hope to be able to contribute to the forums once I know a bit more about the car but I'll start with a question. What colour is it? It looks silvery but says Grey on the V5. I can't find a paint code anywhere on it. There are a lot of minor dings/scratches that need sorting out so I want to get the correct colour. Have added a picture if it helps. Many thanks, Richard
  23. Hello, I've literally just joined this forum. I recently traded in my 2010 2.0D for an ex-demo but effectively new 2015 2.0D automatic with all the bells and whistles except a spare wheel. It came with 225/60/18 wheels and Bridgestone tyres. I'm looking for a spare wheel to carry as I don't like or trust the injection foam repair system and I drive down to the Alps in the winter. Does anyone know if there is anywhere I can buy an 18 inch space saving wheel or even a full size 18 inch steel wheel? I took off my rear alloy today to see if it will fit in the well and it does! And the spare wheel compartment lid closes back down flush. I can store the tools etc. under the spare wheel or inside it and there isn't much room for it to move about. If I really have to, I will buy another alloy but it's an extravagance as a spare wheel. Is it possible/legal/safe/madness to use a smaller wheel with a higher profile tyre to bring a 17" wheel up to the diameter of the 18" regular wheels on this car? Thank you for any answers or suggestions.
  24. Hi Folks, I've just bought a 2006 Outback, 3L auto and I am seriously impressed...what a car!! Comfortable, quiet and quick!! I have signed up on here in the hope of gaining some knowledge from the greater minds that are hopefully hanging around on here.... I got it for what I thought was a great price but it does have issues....but hopefully all treatable for not too many pennies!! I thought I'd start with the easy things and fit a new brake light bulb but one of the clips that hold the fitting in place is damaged and I don't think I can get it out without breaking the clip.....could someone point me in the direction of where to get a replacement. I've had a look at ebay and am unable to to spot the right ones. Thanks in advance....
  • Create New...